The Heady History of the Hand Fan

By Paige McKirahan 

When considering all of the accessories that are used for both utilitarian and decorative purposes, one of the first to come to mind is that of the hand fan. Though this ornamental piece was widely popular in Victorian Eras as a foreign symbol of wealth and class, their origin lies centuries prior in ancient Egypt, Greece, and Rome. After two elaborate fans were discovered in King Tut’s tomb, their gilded appearance solidified the fan’s prominent presence in the accessory world.

(photo credits to pinterest.com)

The fan, which was originally thought be a sacred instrument, was used in religious ceremonies and by royalty in noble settings. They were also used in China in association with ancient mythical and historical characters. At their conception, they were fixed and remained as so until Chinese culture birthed the folding fan and spread it westward towards Europe. Both Chinese and Japanese legends credit their respective countries with creating the piece; the Japanese feel that the folding style is modeled after the wings of bat, and the Chinese legend claims the idea stemmed from a woman fanning her face at a festival.

(photo credits to clickpicx.com) 

The 17^th century then saw an increase in the use of folding fan, eventually causing fixed fans to become obsolete. This style was brought to Western cultures by merchant traders and religious missionaries, and prompted the development of the printed fan, which was made available to all classes. They generally featured prints of all kinds, either painted or transferred on, and shifted from biblical tradition to contemporary pastimes. The Impressionist, Art Nouveau, and Art Deco movements highly impacted the design and construction of fans from the 19^th to the 20^th century . The 19^th century boast some of the most lavish fan designs in history and they were usually hand painted, furnishing those in royal positions. In the 20^th century, feathered fans became popularized by those in high society and ostrich plums could be see floating through the air at every Moulin Rouge show!

Even though fans are not presently part of the everyday fashionista’s accessory arsenal, they still can be seen at royal events and in haute couture shows. We here at TalkingFashion think that something so grand should never go out of style, so to get your own fashionable fan, check out our fantastic collection here!

Sources:

History of Fans. (n.d.). Retrieved from https://www.thefanmuseum.org.uk/fan-history

A Brief History of the Hand Fan. (2008). Retrieved from https://web.ics.purdue.edu/~salvo/@SEA/exhibit/history.asp

The Watch: A Timeless Timekeeping Accessory

By Paige McKirahan

The neverending passage of time is what that we base all of our daily schedules on; from sleep to work to the next fun party, everything runs on the basis of time. But, what is time without a timekeeping device? Without them, we would never be quite sure if were truly on time, and for chronically late people (like myself), this would create quite a problem. People found this to be increasingly troublesome and started looking for a solution; yes, clocks on the wall tell us all we needed to know, but how would we have this knowledge if we were out and about or a clock wasnt near? This question was answered with the creation of the wristwatch in the early 1800s for the Queen of Naples. 

A replica of the first wristwatch

(photo credits to monochromewatches.com)

Despite the fact that arm watches were actually created in the 1570s, they were not worn on the wrist and weren't particularly popular with the public until this updated 17^th century design. Arm watches were more so worn by women on account of the fact that they were prone to damage; men wore pocket watches and the first was created in 1574. Wristwatches changed this dynamic on account of the fact that men in the military advocated for the accessory as it allowed them to keep track of time with ease. Alberto Santos-Dumont, a Brazilian aviator, reached out to his friend Louis Cartier to come up with a style that of watch that would allow him to keep both hands on his controls while still being able to properly time flights. Cartier collaborated with watchmaker Edmond Jaeger to develop the Santos wristwatch, which is one of their brands cornerstone pieces.

Military watch ad from WWI

(photo credits to wornandwound.com)

As we progressed towards the first World War, the popularization of watches for those in the military grew; the wristwatches they were given were referred to as “trench watches” and they established themselves as part of the Officers Kit for the war front. After this time, this accessory began to truly evolve as industrial advancements allowed for the production of wristwatches with automatic winding. John Harwood, a watch repairer, claimed patents for this ingenuity in 1923 after he was the first who managed to use the kinetic power garnered from the watches' hand movement to changing mechanisms. He then started producing these watches in a factory in Switzerland in 1928, which gave the public a chance to purchase one of his timekeeping pieces that could work for 12 hours on a full charge. In the 1950s, fully electric watches were introduced, with the balance wheel being powered by a solenoid, which is a thin wire trapped around a metallic core that procures electric currents.

This new electric watch allowed for the birth of the quartz watch, which removed all moving parts in mechanical watches; this 1969 invention instead used a battery, allowing them to be more shock absorbent and accurate without constant cleaning or oiling. Quartz watches are still manufactured today, but some luxury Swiss brands choose to create non-quartz options by hand. Today, watches can be made of stainless steel, silver, gold, titanium, carbon fibre, platinum, and aluminum. Some manufacturers even use more high tech silicons and ceramics in experimental design. Aside from regular watches, though, smart watches have made waves in wearable timepieces in the past five years and can be seen on the wrists of millions. Apple, Samsung, and Google have all created their own smart technology, opening the door for other new watches that can be connected to smart devices. Whether you are a fan of the classics or are going all digital, read on to see where your preference falls in the top 5 most iconic watches of all time!

The Cartier Santos

As we learned, this watch was one of the first of its kind and was created to help Alberto Santos keep time while flying his plane. Today, it is an iconic style who’s elegance and history lures in all types of buyers.

Jaeger- LeCoultre Reverso

This Art Deco piece made it debut in 1931 as a watch for Britian's elite polo society. It featured a casing that was on a swivel, which ultimately protected the watch from cracks caused by force. Its classic, angular style sets it apart from the rest, appealing to collectors everywhere.  

IWC Pilot’s Watch

This Special Pilot's watch was the first of its kind at the time of its release by IWC in 1936; it prompted a collection of other military grade watches that captured the praise of the public for decades. This timepieces features a stainless steel waterproof casing that surrounds a softer inner cage, protecting the movement from magnetic fields.

Patek Phillippe Perpetual Calendar Chronograph

This timepiece was one of the first of its kind as it was able to keep track of the date for 200 years without adjustment. Patek released this watch in 1941 and it took the timekeeping community by storm as it was also able to measure small increments of time. Today, it is still widely sought out by collectors and leisure wearers alike. 

Rolex Datejust

As one of the most iconic watch brands of all time, Rolex released the Datejust in 1945 and it was distinguished by its date indicator. This designs trademark was the Cyclops lense, and its original design has been nearly unchanged. A symbol of strength and intelligence, this timepiece has been worn by the likes of Winston Churchill and Dwight D. Eisenhower.

(all above photo credits to chronext.com) 

If you're looking for a way to avoid being fashionably late while still being chic, check out our collection of timekeeping accessories! 

Floral Patterns Bloom in Fashion

By Paige McKirahan

From Dia de los Muertos style to spring classics, florals have always been one of fashion's most beloved patterns. In jewelry and clothing alike, this natural motif can be traced back hundreds of years; of course, they were present in many ancient cultures dating back to the 12^th century, but we saw the true culmination of this aesthetic in the 19^th century. At this time, textile production saw a huge increase on account of the Industrial Revolution. This paired with the newfound “floral language” boosted botanic influence tenfold and echoed romantic themes from the past. This "language" essentially used specific flowers and arrangements to send messages that could not be spoken aloud in Victorian times. Victorian age society saw its peoples begin to carry floral dictionaries and exchanged “talking bouquets” that could be worn as fashion accessories.

Later in this century, we saw Impressionists and Art Nouveau enthusiasts alike take interest in East Asian art styles that featured exotic floral patterns. They can be credited with starting a trend surrounding Orientalism that spanned until World War II. This 20^th century interest was transformative; floral motifs became popular in the accessory world and we saw a burst in the use of florals as a whole. Tropical aesthetics seen in the ‘50s and ‘80s along with hippie style in the ‘60s and ‘70s were huge trends and true indicators of their time.

Presently, flower patterns have established themselves as part of “eternal fashion”: their longstanding popularity has never faltered and there are a wide variety of patterns appealing to all styles. Read on to see five of the most prominent floral patterns in fashion to review for this upcoming spring! 

Abstract:

These florals tend to be lively scenes that use shapes, lines, and colors to create abstract patterns. 

Art Nouveau:

This floral style was birthed from the Art Nouveau movement that was characterized by its feminine and liberated aesthetic.

Retro:

Retro florals tend to be in muted tones with a more geometric style. They feature strong bursts of color, and are reminiscent of the fashion in the 1960s.

Geometric:

This style of botanical pattern uses different shapes and colors to create bright designs that hint at floral motifs. 

Ditsy: 

Ditsy motifs include small flowers in an all-over design, creating a simple but fun pattern. 

For all of these styles and more, check out our floral collection and let your style bloom!

The Steampunk Movement: Modern, Industrial, and Accessory Filled

By Paige McKirahan

When thinking of ways to accessorize a steampunk look, you first want consider what the term means in order to understand this wild aesthetic as a whole. In short, it is a movement inspired by Victorian England, American’s wild West, and the Industrial Revolution that reimagines modern technologies as more elaborate, creative pieces of fashion, art, and mechanics. Essentially, it puts a classic twist on modern style, combining pieces from previous centuries with industrial motifs. This style of art and dress did not come into circulation until the late ’80s, and it has only grown in popularity since; its presence in literature pushed the movement in to the public eye and from that point, it gained momentum in fashion, film, and music. Now it is more than just a part of science fiction as its fun, DIY characteristics have spread into popular culture. Every good pop culture movement has standout accessories, so read on to see a few of our favorite steampunk pieces and motifs!

Walking Cane 

Back in a time when canes were less utilitarian, they were typically an indication of the owner’s wealth and overall status. For a period spanning over three centuries, they were an essential part of the wardrobe and it was likely that cane users possessed a variety of canes to be used in a multitude of social settings. Their general use has roots in the male psyche where wielding a stick equates to power. Just think back to classic literature; Black Rod carried a actual rod, Merlin carried a wand, and Moses used a staff to part the sea. When they were introduced in the 1650s, they were considered exotic as they were made with foreign materials like ivory and Malacca wood. As time progressed towards the Victorian age and the Industrial revolution, the middle class became increasingly wealthy and used canes to illustrate that wealth in grandeur. This popular use continued until about the 1940s when everyone almost simultaneously seemed to lay their canes down in pursuit of more simplified accessories. They were mostly used as a walking aid until the steampunk movement picked them up again, giving their gear-oriented ensembles an added level of class! 

Cufflinks

Though it seems like cufflinks may account for just a small part of an outfit, their aesthetic value and ability to redefine your entire look is what makes them one of the most important accessories of all. The small but mighty accent piece began appearing in the early 1500s when men began using strings to tie their ruffled wristbands together. This continued until the Industrial Revolution, when chains and strings were replaced with rods and clips to closer resemble the modern cufflink of today. Despite the fact that shirt makers have now began to put buttons on sleeves to decrease the need for cufflinks, they are still seen as a luxury item and give one the opportunity to make their clothing truly their own. They give steampunk lovers a great way to incorporate industrial motifs into their elaborate outfits, tying together their retro-modern looks.

Pocket Watches

Abiding by the steampunk ideals of functionality, creativity, and retro aesthetics, pocket watches capture the essence of the movement with their gear-oriented appearances and chain accents. Originating in around the 16^th century, the widespread use of the pocket watch began with the rise of railroading; keeping precise time was crucial for railroad guards and this importance was so prominent that Levi Strauss designed his jeans with a tiny front pocket made exclusively for holding the accessory! Many steampunk aficionados prefer the open face style of watch, which allows the wearer to display the inner workings of the piece. The best watches to invest in are said to be made by Rolex, Movado, Omega, IWC, ad Patek Philipe and are brands coveted by steampunk fashionistas.

Hand Fan 

Though the hand fan was widely popular in Victorian Eras as a foreign symbol of wealth and class, their origin lies centuries prior in ancient Egypt, Greece, and Rome. The piece, which was originally thought be a sacred instrument, was used in religious ceremonies and by royalty. They were also used in China in association with ancient mythical and historical characters. At their conception, they were fixed and remained as so until Chinese culture birthed the folding fan and spread it westward towards Europe. The 17^th century then saw an increased use of folding fan, eventually causing fixed fans to become obsolete. They generally featured prints of all kinds, either painted or transferred on, and shifted from biblical tradition to contemporary pastimes. The Impressionist, Art Nouveau, and Art Deco movements highly impacted the design and construction of fans from the 19^th to the 20^th century and today, the steampunk movement has taken hold of the accessory to complement their Victorian aesthetic.

Gloves

Similar to the hand fan, gloves found their origins in ancient culture; throughout history, they have been used for both utilitarian and decorative purposes beginning in Greece, China, and Egypt. They did not come into widespread circulation until the 11^th century when they finally reached Britain after their conception 100 years prior. Originally, they were confined to soldiers in warfare and their use as a fashion accessory did not commence until the 17^th century when style and status-oriented interests surrounding gloves began. Both genders were involved in this practice until the 18^th century, when their importance in men’s wardrobes dwindled. With the 19^th century, though, their popularity burst for both men and women when social codes developed that called for gloves in public settings. If you were seen out gloveless or were wearing soiled pieces, you would be the target for ridicule and face accusations of poor etiquette. The 20^th century saw another shift in use of gloves as the World Wars’ rationing of materials and standardization of design proved highly fashionable gloves to be unnecessary. We saw a brief revival in the 1950s, but it quickly fizzled out by the end of the preceding decade. Steampunk fans love to use gloves in their ensembles, giving their looks a vintage flair with fingerless, lace pieces holding precedence.

Face Masks 

Steampunk face masks are very reminiscent of thoses seen at a masked ball, but more industrial in appearance. Many of them feature clock and gear motifs and are typically gold, silver, or black in color. Their style may vary, and their steampunk-ehtusiats wearers use them to tie together their entire outfit and overall personality. The gas mask is a popular style, emulating Victorian London where fumes and smoke were a part of daily life. The masquerade mask starkly contrasts the gas mask aesthetic as it is more fancy and associated with dancing at a grand ball. Eye patches are a viable option and gives wearers the opportunity to play with their story; maybe they are hiding a mechanical eye or some other industrial creation beneath the covering. The plague doctor mask may be the most startling in appearance, with inspiration coming from iconic plague masks used in the 17^th and 18^th centuries. The accessories were worn by doctors and scientists and are commonly known as bird masks because of their long, beaklike nose piece.

Pocket Knives 

The pocket knife has been in use for centuries from the Roman empire to the Viking era. In the 1600s, they began to become more affordable, widely distributed, and mass produced. Many different styles of knives began being designed for a multitude of purposes ranging from hunting to camping. The simple, folding pocket knife is the most popular in steampunk fashion and they are typically bronze or gold in color with gears featured throughout the piece.

Though these pieces are just the tip of the iceberg when it comes to steampunk accessories, we feel like these are major fashion components than can be seen in any steampunk lovers closet. Octopus, spider, skeleton, camo, playing card motifs are also commonly featured in this movement’s fashions with bronze and leather colorings. If you’re trying to prepare a steampunk look for this upcoming Halloween or an impending convention, we’ve got you covered! Click on any of the photos in this post or search our collection for steampunk inspired pieces that are sure to make you feel industrial chic!

Art Deco and the Birth of Glamour

by Paige McKirahan

In a time when the stock market followed the length of lady’s skirts, a new era of art and fashion urged us away from the soft tightness of Art Nouveau and marked the beginning of bigger experimentation within these mediums. This new movement, affectionately known as the Art Deco era, spanned from the ‘20s to the mid ‘30s and brought airy silhouettes, abstraction, and fantasy to the forefront at the conclusion of World War I in 1918. After women took up hard physical work in the absence of men, they had no interest in returning to the constrictive lifestyle guidelines they once were forced to adhere to. The ‘20s became an age of financial prosperity and luxury aesthetics, with the youthful generation taking hold of post war society and creating a type of culture that prompted innovation and celebrated eccentricity.

As the economy grew, hemlines slowly climbed; by 1919, we saw skirt lengths hit mid-calf and they continued creeping up to hit the knee in 1925. During this time, dress forms moved to a more semi- fitted silhouette with dropped waists, starkly contrasting the corseted, high-waisted style of the preceding era. Up to this point, fashion had never seen a silhouette of this type and it allowed designers to innovate with new methods of seaming, draping, beading, and fabric use. Menswear and sportswear busted onto the scene and opened the door for the use of knits, leather, and rayon, all of which became important materials of the time. Of course, as we all know, this is the era of the flapper; this short lived phenomenon was a physical embodiment of glamour and the rejection of societal norms popularized in what is referred to as the Jazz Age.

Dresses by Coco Chanel c. 1925

(photo credit to langantiques.com) 

Though Art Deco does continue with the 20^th centuries’ celebration of the female figure, it takes a more sensuous approach with semi- abstract depictions of the body. Contemporary artistic movements such as cubism and futurism seeped into clothing design, favoring the styles’ interests in technological and geometric structures. This age also found inspiration in industrial landscapes with metallic color palettes and clean lines. Aside from the modern influence of the time, jewelry and clothing also found inspiration in archeological discoveries in Egypt; design motifs including pyramids, lotus blossoms, scarabs, and anything to do with ancient pharaohs became enormously popular along with Indian, Persian, and Chinese aesthetics.

 Art Deco jewelry played with the geometric and industrial based trademarks of the movement and there were essentially two major schools of jewelry design: bijoutiers-artises and bijoutiers- joailliers. The former emphasized design over monetary value and the ladder used more precious materials to outline designs and compliment diamonds, prioritizing glamour over construction. Gold began to lose its popularity as platinum and its cheaper substitute, osimor, came into circulation as it was strong and required less metal to securely hold gems. Earrings had sharp corners and were feminine, accessorizing shorter hairstyles that were popularized in the ‘20s and ‘30s. Necklace lengths became longer in order to compliment shorter hemlines and deeper necklines, commonly featuring geometric pendants or tassels. Pearl necklaces were also a staple as the production of cultured pearls allowed them to be created in mass quantities. Popular jewelry materials of the time included a variety of synthetic plastics, such as bakelite, and other wares that could imitate gemstones, bone, and other expensive natural materials.

Art Deco Cartier Necklace c. 1929

(photo credit to langantiques.com)

Though fashion had to be rationed in the 1930s when the stock market crashed, jewelry arts seemed to continue to thrive and were revolutionized to become the focal points of outfits as buying and creating new clothing was not a priority. Large brooches, flashy ear clips, thick bracelets, and ornate dress clips were adorned with gemstones and diamonds in an almost theatrical way, allowing women of the time to create endless looks despite their limited wardrobes.

The key designers of this period, Coco Chanel and Elsa Schiaparelli, were well known rivals and fashion icons. Lovers of art and glamour, they are cornerstones in this new revolution of women’s style and created pieces that are still discussed in modern times. Chanel began her career in fashion in the early 1900s, but truly became a household name when she launched Chanel No. 5 in the early ‘20s. Then, in 1925, she released the now emblematic Chanel suit; the collarless jacket and well fitted skirt borrowed motifs from menswear and allowed women to move away from confining garments and into a new realm of comfort and freedom. Her little black dress design also was also revolutionary because it framed black as something that could be glamorous rather than a color used for mourning. Her bag designs were in a league of their own, being some of the first to incorporate shoulder straps and her classic double C logo. These Chanel pieces have endured for almost a century and have been seen in some of the most historically significant moments of all time (think Jackie O’s pink Chanel suit!).

Chanel’s iconic suit and little black dress worn by none other than Audrey Hepburn

 (image credit to Google images)

Elsa Schiaparelli was a couture- minded designer who found most of her inspiration from artists of the era. She was a nonconformist, using eclectic and unique aesthetics to create clothing that were art pieces in their own right. She collaborated with artists frequently and Salvador Dali became her creator of choice as his surrealist tone complimented her outrageous taste. They created designs that are still coveted in both the fashion and art worlds and they can be seen in The Met where they celebrate her genius in their costume institute. She truly emerged into fashion when she presented her first collection of sweaters in 1927; the designs featured geometric shapes and were hand knit in her apartment in Paris. The groundbreaking couturiere then began using visible zippers in her pieces, which was unheard of at the time being a fairly new invention. She created a swimsuit with a built in bra and brought colored hosiery to the forefront of fashion, shooting herself to superstar status. Like Chanel, she also created a legendary perfume line and has been a true gift to pop culture for decades.

Schiaparelli and Dali’s most iconic collaborations

(photo credit to Google images)

As our generation rapidly moves towards a new ‘20s, it would be remiss to not wonder what types of trends we will see in a decade that has historically been so beloved in pop culture. Everyone from haute couture designers to filmmakers adored the Art Deco aesthetic and have paid homage to the glamourous style of the era with revivals occurring frequently throughout the past 100 years. Chicago and The Great Gatsby gave us a glimpses of the period on the big screen and designers like Yves Saint Laurent, Galliano, and Diane von Furstenberg resurrected this aesthetic on the runway. We see the 1920s as an of idealized portrayal of youth, glamour, sexuality, and this romanticization has only been strengthened over time. To prepare for the new roaring ‘20s, search our collection for some Art Deco pieces that truly never go out of style! Here some of our favorites: