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Fashion Flashback: Necklaces by Morgan Watkins
"Fashion Flashback: Necklaces" by Morgan Watkins
As more ancient jewelry is discovered and unearthed, the world learns more about how we, as a species, have lived. But while archeologist findings have paved the way to understanding past generations, some pieces, like the world’s oldest necklace, stir up more questions than they answer. Read on to learn more about the origins of the necklace and what styles reigned supreme throughout the years.Currently holding the title as the oldest form of jewelry known to man, the first necklace dates back all the way to 130,000 BC; that’s a whopping 30,000 years before the age of modern men. The artifact was found in Croatia, and made from white-tailed eagle talons. This led to researchers raising the question: were Neanderthals more intelligent and developed than we had previously assumed? And what did jewelry mean to them?
(Image from http://www.ancientfacts.net/7-oldest-pieces-jewelry-world/)
Although these questions may be forever unanswered, we can at least draw conclusions as to why later civilizations wore ornamental neck gear. The Egyptians are famous for donning elaborate beaded collars made from glass and pottery to represent celebration and religion. Collars were also worn for funeral purposes and used to protect the wearer from evil.(Image from www.talkingfashion.net)
Ancient Greeks sported more delicate necklaces which hung lower and were often made from gold. Animal carvings and pendants displaying cameos of landscapes dangled from the bands. In Ancient Rome, only elite members of society wore sparkling gold and silver necklaces, featuring semi-precious stones and gems like diamonds, sapphire, and amber. Ropes of pearl were introduced at this time and came in and out of style for centuries.
(Image from www.talkingfashion.net)
By the Byzantine era, the rise of religious garb took over. Christianity and Catholicism had a firm grasp on the world, inspiring individuals to represent their religion via their attire. Necklaces made of gold and silver adorned with crosses and other religious symbols were worn prominently until newer styles came into fashion around the end of the Middle Ages.
(Image from www.talkingfashion.net)
As necklines increasingly widened and lowered, necklaces became a must have accessory, at least for those who could afford them. Around the early 1600s, the choker saw its debut into the world of style. But long before they were worn as fashion statements, chokers were used on slaves as they were transported to European countries. Enslaved individuals were forced to wear brutal and uncomfortable iron chokers to keep them from escaping. With origins of cruelty, it’s hard to believe that chokers would later become symbols of patriotism. During the French Revolution, female patriots would tie thin red string around their necks to represent the Revolution and their narrow escape from death and injustice. Similarly was the red ribbon choker, which paid tribute to those who lost their lives via guillotine, while a strip of black velvet was worn when the individual was mourning the death of someone close to them.
(Image from www.talkingfashion.net)
Another popular style emerging in the 16th and 17th centuries was the locket. Common conceptions of lockets are that they contained portraits of the wearer or their loved ones, but they actually held an array of other objects too, like perfumed fabric squares and even poison. Some lockets withheld an image of the individual who gifted the necklace, while others depicted family crests, religious symbols, or allegiance to the monarchy. These special necklaces remained popular throughout the years, and they now serve as precious heirlooms for future generations.
(Image from www.talkingfashion.net)
With the Romantic period came more extravagant designs in jewelry, necklaces being no exception. Although necklaces were more popular with women than men, they were layered on generously with an army of other accessories. Gem encrusted collars, pendants adorned with jewels, pearl necklaces, ribbons and more were stacked, mixed and matched with other dazzling pieces. By the end of the 1800s, machine-made jewelry led to necklaces becoming less expensive and more accessible to everyday individuals, so everyone was in on the fashion fun.
(Image from www.talkingfashion.net)
Although the 20th century toned things down a bit, the exhilarating influence of Chanel and the Art Deco movement led to an influx of costume jewelry being worn and reimagined in the real world. Strings of pearls and glass beads, chunky collars, geometric pendants and precious gems were hot trends, up until the minimalistic age of the 90s took the wheel. Both men and women ended up opting for simple leather cords and metal chain necklaces in lieu of the bolder styles from previous decades.(Image from www.talkingfashion.net)
These trends have withstood the test of time, as chokers, cross necklaces and delicate chains have come back into fashion both on the runway and off it. So be sure to hold your great-great-grandma’s shining golden pendant near and dear to your heart, because it could be the next necklace style revival. But if you decide lockets aren’t your thing and you’d like to pass your jewelry onto another fashion lover, be sure to get in touch with our consignment team at consign@talkingfashion.net to get the best sale value possible.
(Image from https://www.whowhatwear.com/chanel-fall-winter-2018-runway)
References:
Briggs, Helen. “Necklace Is ‘Oldest in Americas.’” BBC News 1 Apr. 2008. BBC News . Web.
“Byzantine Baubles: The History of Jewelry.” Gallery Byzantium. Gallery Byzantium, 15 Sept. 2017. Web.“Locket History: Heart Lockets & Photo Keepsakes Through the Ages.” With You Lockets. With You Lockets, n.d. Web.
Moody, Oliver. “Neanderthal Bone Necklace ‘world’s Oldest Jewellery’.” The Times 12 Mar. 2015. Times Newspapers Limited. Web.Parute, Edīte. “Choker Necklace - Incredible Origins And History Through The Times.” Fashionologia Historiana, 28 Aug. 2017. Web.
Torntore, Susan J. “History of Necklaces and Pendants.” lovetoknow. LoveToKnow Corp, Web. -
Fashion Flashback: Bracelets by Morgan Watkins
"Fashion Flashback: Bracelets" written by Morgan Watkins
One of the oldest pieces of jewelry known to man is the bracelet. Worn and adored by cultures far and wide, bracelets can be tracked back tens of thousands of years. But how did some of our favorite styles come to be? Read on to learn more about bangles, charm bracelets and other beloved arm candy.
Initially, bracelets were made out of a variety of natural goods such as stone, twigs, feathers, horns, teeth, and even insect secretions. In 2008, archaeologists discovered a stone bangle that could be as old as 70,000 years. Researchers believe that an early human species known as the Denisovans crafted the ancient piece.
(Image from https://www.dailymail.co.uk/sciencetech/article-4753746/Scientists-believe-stone-bracel et-70-000-years-old.html)
Other bangles have been found within tombs and other ancient ruins all over the world, ranging from Mayan stomping grounds to Roman ones. In Indian cultures, glass bangles are customarily worn by brides to represent safety and a prosperous marriage. These glass accessories are worn for life; they’re only broken or removed in themselves with wrist cuffs constructed from leather and metal, while also wearing upper and lower arm cuffs for ornamental reasons. Snake inspired bangles which coiled around the wrist were en vogue, until bracelets lost popularity in the Middle Ages, when Christian and Catholic ideals claimed the wearing of jewelry to be an act of shameful vanity.
(image from www.talkingfashion.net)
This religious mindset humbled individuals around the globe until the Renaissance rolled around. While men were less likely to be seen accessorizing with bracelets at this time, European women insisted on bringing the ornaments back into style around the late 16th and early 17th centuries. Cameo bracelets depicting images of gods, deities, animals, landscapes and more were on trend, and by the Victorian era, so were charm bracelets. Charm bracelets were originally introduced by Egyptians in ancient times. The charms were said to be magical, providing luck and protection to the wearer.
(image from www.talkingfashion.net)
Around 500 BC, Persians and Babylonians also wore charms for their special powers. But it was Queen Victoria, who wore a gold chain adorned with lockets containing portraits her family, who initially revived the wristlet. The charm bracelet became known as jewelry that was not only charming and elegant, but also an accessory that held personal meaning and significance. From that template came new ideas for charm bracelets, like the cha cha, which is adorned with beads rather than traditional charms.
(image from www.talkingfashion.net)
Like Queen Victoria’s charm bracelet, friendship bracelets also carry themes of love and loyalty. Indigenous people from Central and South America are said to be the inventors of the friendship bracelet, which was constructed by weaving together colorful threads, beads, shells and more. The traditional wearing of friendship bracelets is sacred, for the creator puts a considerable amount of love and hard work into the completion of the wristband. Once the bracelet is tied around the receiver’s wrist, they are allotted one wish which will only be granted if the band is worn until it slips off naturally. Removing the bracelet manually is a sign of a failed or broken friendship, and whatever wish the receiver may have made will be forgotten. The return of the friendship bracelet took place during the 70s, when peace, love and anti-war were common social themes and weaving became a fun craft for kids and teens alike.
(image from www.talkingfashion.net)
It was during the 20th century that bracelets, like other pieces of jewelry, became more affordable due to increased production. Lines were more refined and simplified in comparison to earlier designs as Art Deco influenced fashion. Slim, plastic bangles, wide cuffs, dainty chains, and charm bracelets made of gold-plated brass and sterling silver were popular styles worn by women far and wide. Men even started donning bracelets once more, opting for edgy sterling silver chains.
(image from www.talkingfashion.net)
From the Denisovans to the Chloé runway, the bracelet is the 70,000 year old accessory staple that is constantly being made new in fashion.
(Image from http://www.vogue.it/en/shows/show/collections-fall-winter-2018-19/chloe)
References: “History of Bracelets.” Overstock. Overstock.com, Web. “Oldest Obsidian Bracelet Reveals Amazing Craftsmen’s Skills in the Eighth Millennium BC.” Phys.org. Science X Network, 2011. Web. Stewart, Will. “World’s Oldest Known Stone Bracelet Could Rewrite the History of Early Man: 70,000-Year-Old Bangle Suggests Our Ancestors Were Far More Sophisticated than Thought.” Daily Mail. Associated Newspapers Ltd, 2017. Web. Trautmann, Julianne. “Bracelets.” LoveToKnow. LoveToKnow Corp, Web. Wheat, Michele. “All About Friendship Bracelets.” Wristband Resources. Wristband Resources, Web.
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NYFW SS'19 Accessories Review by To Ma Ngoc
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Fashion Without Boundaries: Genderless Designs Take Reign
Fashion Without Boundaries: Genderless Designs Take Reign
By Paige McKirahan
Fashion is, in short, a form of creative expression; those participating in this expression should feel as if they have the freedom to wear what they want when they want, regardless of the restrictive gendered guidelines set by society. In a time that seems more accepting and open to new ideas than ever, discussions of gender fluidity are now front and center as debates of right and wrong flood the media. Though many aren’t choosing to embrace these societal changes, others see them as opportunities for self-discovery and evolution. Celebrities like Jaden Smith and Young Thug are prime examples as they flout gender norms with ease, wearing dresses and skirts simply because they prefer the style. In lieu of Fashion Week, we wanted to look at some designers that do not see gender as a barrier in style, aiming to create inclusive collections for all. With men and women’s styles now both walking down the runway in combined shows, the question of what is masculine and feminine is being posed. But, in reality, who gets to decide these distinctions? Do they even matter in the end?
Jaden Smith in skirts for various campaigns
(image credits to youtube.com)
Fashion has been crossing these lines for years and we have seen genders appropriating opposing styles since the ‘30s when menswear came into fashion for women during wartime years. But showing these both gender’s lines together truly allowed us to consider the distinct differences (or lack thereof) between the two. Materials and fabrics are the same, cuts are uncannily similar, and accessories are fluid. Many designers are also choosing to show these collections using androgynous models, further blurring the line between male and female.
Raf Simons puts this androgyny to great use as he was the first to have a combined men and women’s show for Calvin Klein. As Simons began as a designer of men’s fashions, he used that knowledge and incorporated previous stylistic choices into creating clothing for both genders with feminine edges. Men and women were both in suits with blazers, sheer tops exposing nipples, and varsity stripe motifs.
Raf Simons Calvin Klein Collection F/W 2017
(photo credit to elle.com)
Simons is one of the many designers using the runway to freely express the fact that men’s and women’s clothes can be interchangeable, but some designers are taking it to the next level and creating fully genderless designs. Offering a place in the industry for those who don’t find themselves confined by gender or simply do not want to abide by the norms, these labels have paved the way for this movement and have even prompted the Council of Fashion Designers of America to add a “unisex/non-binary” category to the NYFW calendar.
One of these labels in particular is blurring these lines in a big way; Becca McCharen- Tran and her swimwear brand Chromat are aiming to make shopping less alienating by not using exclusionary language in regards to gender, making everyone feel welcome. She knows that being in a swimsuit can make one feel vulnerable, and wants to be sure that her brand has plenty of options for people from all walks of life, allowing them feel empowered in one of their pieces. The Phluid Project is also a game changer in retail space; Rob Smith recognizes that it is not a comfortable experience for those who want to shop in departments that don’t fit their appeared gender and began this project to combat that. He created the shop as a space for people who want to view fashion in a safe environment, exploring boundaries. He wants to eliminate gender expression and the concept that fashion or makeup should define your gender as he feels the practice is outdated.
An Instagram post from Chromat displaying gender neutral swimwear
(photo credit to highsnobiety.com)
This trend has also made its way into the jewelry market as many people are now buying gender neutral pieces; it is now about the question “what does wearing this piece say about me?” rather than “was this piece made for me?” As more men are opting to wear jewelry, they are commonly choosing pieces that are characteristically more ‘feminine’. This new engagement takes them away from the traditional watches and cufflinks, moving more towards rings and bracelets that express their personalities. As we proceed towards acceptance of all and true freedom of expression, restrictions in the jewelry industry are truly breaking down.
To conclude this discussion, I want to leave you with a quote from Gypsy Sport Founder, Rio Uribe, as you consider this move towards unification: “All clothes are gender neutral. It’s really about who’s wearing the garments and how they gender themselves. I love when a piece can be worn by anyone, whether they are cis, trans, male-, female-, or non-binary-presenting. Personally, I think that if kids weren’t told that blue jeans are for boys and pink dresses are for girls, then we would all be dressed as our true selves. So I design for people who think like me, who are themselves regardless of society’s expectations and regardless of what section of a clothing store they like to shop in.” Here at Talkingfashion, we believe that style is genderless and seeing these ideas being reflected on runways brings us great excitement. Always remember-- wear what you love, everyday!
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The Return of the 80s: Fall Fashion
The Return of the ‘80s: Fall Fashion
by Paige McKirahanYes, you read that correctly. As one of the most questionable, yet daring decades’ fashions are coming back in style, it is hard to wonder how to make such wild aesthetics chic again in a time where minimalism seems to reign. Well, wonder not, fashion lovers; our favorite designers have already set the guidelines for this fall ‘80s revival at fashion week this past spring.
Bold and dramatic looks with intense cheek contouring, electric neons, wild animal prints, and shoulder pads are making a bold return to runways, fighting the ‘90s revival that has taken reign in the past few years. Voluminous pieces and sequins ran free in Halpern’s fall 2018 show, while Saint Laurent and Gareth Puch loved the shoulder pad look for their collections.
From first to last: Halpern, Garath Puch, and Saint Laurent looks from NYFW Fall 2018
If you’re baffled by this trend, you’re not alone; all major news outlets are discussing this fascination with styles of decades’ past. The New York Times, The Huffington Post, and Vogue alike are trying to decipher the reasoning behind the popularization of fashions that seemed like they were in the archives for good. But, here is the secret that is being told as fashion evolves and we see vintage style prevail: generations of consumers that don’t experience decades in person, want to experience the clothing that was previously popular in the now. Embracing the muchness of the decade, millennials and Gen Z’ers wear this aesthetic with feelings of ironic joy while their parents look on with a sort of conflicting amusement. I say that the resurgence of these flamboyant silhouettes is for anyone, so dig in your closet (or in our collection!) for some old school pieces and prepare for fashion time travel to an era where bigger was always better.