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Fashion Flashback: Brooches & Pins
Fashion Flashback: Brooches & Pins by Morgan Watkins
What do you think of when you see a brooch? Your grandma getting dressed upfor her Sunday morning church service? Queen Elizabeth II at a garden party in England? Well, think again - designers like Chanel, Dolce & Gabbana, and Louis Vuitton are bringing back these flashy pins in a way that’s completely fresh and modern. But how did the dazzling accessories come to be? Read on to hear more about the history of these essential pins.
Initially used to fasten and secure clothing like loin cloths and cloaks, brooches date back even before the Bronze Age, where they were originally constructed out of thorns and flint. As time progressed and more materials became available, new styles and ways to wear brooches emerged. By the Byzantine period, people no longer needed brooches to keep their outfits secure, but they wanted brooches for a number of ornamental reasons.
One brooch style that gained popularity in the 18th and 19th centuries was the mourning brooch. These were normally given to mourning individuals through the will of a deceased loved one. Often times, the brooch was oval shaped and glass, inscribed with the name, date of birth and death date of the loved one who had passed.
(Image from https://artofmourning.com/tag/mourning-brooch/)
On a less somber note, en tremblant brooches were also introduced in the 18th century, and stayed in style well into the 19th century. En tremblant meaning “trembling” or “to tremble,” these sparkling pins featured diamonds arranged in a floral-like design that actually moved and rotated. But these were not the first dazzling pins to take the world by storm, as aigrette brooches, which were set with gems and diamonds to create a feather shape, were introduced in the 17th and 18th centuries. Aigrettes even saw a revival within the 19th and 20th centuries, and were often very detailed and worn in hair.(Image from https://www.bonhams.com/auctions/20714/lot/204/)
Not all brooches were for everybody, though. Take Grand Tour brooches for example. In the 17th century, Grand Tour was a sort of customary European vacation exclusive to young upper class individuals. While on these trips, wealthy travelers bought these sophisticated souvenirs to commemorate their journeys. Characteristically,Grand Tour brooches depicted micro mosaics of landscapes, wildlife and flora.
(Image from http://www.sweaterflair.com/2016/09/29/hello-world/)
One brooch that was available for nearly every social class was the sweetheart brooch. Also known as a love brooch, sweetheart brooches were used as tokens of affection. Around WWI, soldiers would give sweetheart brooches to their loved ones before shipping off. Carved from lightweight silver and decorated with birds, hearts and other lovely and romantic images, these pins could make anyone’s heart melt.(Image from https://booksonwaraustralia.com/badges-and-medals/1670-australian-mizpah-world-war -1-sweetheart-brooch-badge.html)
No matter how you look at brooches, a lot can be said about their history and staying power in the world of fashion. From the Bronze Age to 2018 runways, the brooch is an accessory worth celebrating.
(Image from https://fortrove.com/blogs/news/brooches-make-their-big-comeback-on-fall-2018-runway)
Bibliography
Bernstein, Beth. “A History of Brooches: The Evolution of Style.” The Jewelry Editor, 2016.
“Styles Through History: Brooches.” The Loupe. TrueFacet, Inc., 2016. -
Fashion Flashback: Rings
Fashion Flashback: Rings by Morgan Watkins
Known as a symbol of love, rings are absolutely essential for any accessory lover’s arsenal. They’ve been around for thousands of years, featuring a plethora of various metals and precious stones while gracing the fingers of both royalty and everyday individuals alike. If you’ve ever wondered how this hand-tastic piece of jewelry came to fruition, keep on reading.
The oldest dated rings were discovered in ancient Egyptian tombs dating back as early as 2500 BC. Egyptians in particular greatly valued their accessories, as they were deeply attached to what each piece symbolized. Rings were used as talismans and amulets to ward off hostility and harm. Animals like snakes and scorpions were featured on rings, as they were creatures that evoked fear and protected the wearer. Even when met with death, Egyptians wore their rings and other accessories into the afterlife, hence why so many precious jewels have been discovered in tombs. It was around this time that the exchange of wedding rings was originated. Initially, Egyptians weaved hemp circles to create bands representing a link to immortal love. The fourth finger on your left hand has a vein that runs straight to the heart, which is why it is custom in most countries to wear your wedding ring on your left ring finger. Although women were often seen sporting rings commemorating their marriages long ago, men were rarely seen wearing wedding bands until WWI and WWII, where their rings served as a reminder of the love they had waiting for them back home.
(Image from http://www.grimballjewelers.com/chapel-hill-jewelry-blog/2016/6/9/the-long-history-of-en gagement-rings-and-wedding-rings)
Another symbol often associated with rings in particular is status and class. In early Rome, rings were first made from iron. Only noble individuals, like senators serving ambassadors of the Republic, could indulge in the privilege of wearing gold rings. And although the right to wear gold was eventually granted to all ancient Romans, only those with wealth and power could obtain such expensive goods. While royalty and nobles wore gold and silver adorned with precious jewels, poor commonfolk had to settle for pewter, bronze and copper.
(Image from https://www.peterszuhay.com/ads/ancient-roman-gold-ring-with-intaglio/)
The 16th and 17th centuries saw massive growth in the world of goldsmithing. Bands had become more intricately sculpted as art from the Renaissance era poured in, inspiring unique and fresh innovations. One ring in particular that was designed to be both utilitarian and beautiful was the hinged ring, which could be used to oh-so discreetly carry anything from intoxicating fragrances to deadly poisons. Rubies, emeralds and sapphire came into style as well, arranged in a gaggle of new shapes, sizes and cuts. But this era was not all colorful stones and fun bands. Plagues and deadly diseases served as constant reminders of impending and inescapable mortality, which led to the creation of rings inscribed with skulls, skeletons and caskets. These became known as memento mori rings, and would become a staple of the late 17th century.
(Image from https://talkingfashion.net/products/copy-of-floral-carved-cocktail-ring-vintage-plastic-jew elry)
After the 17th century ended on a low note, the 18th century brought with it a new breath of life in the world of rings. Styles were refined, bands became more delicate and brightly colored gems and stones were arranged in creative new ways, like floral bouquets and ribbons tied into bows. Bezel shapes were elongated and reimagined, leading to the birth of shapes like oval, navette, lozenge and octagonal.
(Image from http://charlottesayers.co.uk/items/18th-century-amethyst-and-diamond-basket-ring/)
The 19th and 20th centuries were also a fantastic representation of creativity in ring design. The diamond solitaire ring became a fan favorite style, as did birthstone engagement rings. These were popularized by none other than Queen Victoria, who wore her May birthstone, an emerald, on her ring finger. By the early to mid 20th century, art deco influenced stimulating and fresh designs. Fun geometric shapes adorned the fingers of those far and wide, serving as a bit of a distraction from the ever so somber Great Depression. Rings were made with cheaper materials but still served as a stylish and easy way for fashion fanatics to accessorize on a tight budget.
(Image from https://talkingfashion.net/products/copy-of-pink-purple-cocktail-ring-sparkling-crystal-rhin estones-adjustable-band-statement-bling-jewelry)
Presently, rings come in all shapes, materials and sizes and can be worn in a myriad of ways. Thankfully, you don’t have to be a Roman ruler to rock a set of sparkling gold rings these days.
(Image from https://talkingfashion.net/products/copy-of-green-jewel-ring-adjustable-bijoux-contempocostume-jewelry)
Bibliography “19th Century Engagement Rings & Trends.” Victor Barbone Jewelry. Victor Barbone Jewelry, 2017. Web.
Amelio-Ortiz, Cuini. “The History of the Ring– the Gold Rings of Ancient Egypt.” World of Gemstones. Rocks & Co, Web.
Cassell, Amy. “History of the Wedding Ring.” Destination Weddings & Honeymoons. Bonnier Corporation, 2012. Web.
“Rings: Ancient to Neoclassical.” Antique Jewelry University. Lang Antique & Estate Jewelry, Web.
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The Rebellious Revolution of 1970s Trends
The Rebellious Revolution of 1970s Trends by Paige McKirahan
Building off of the revolution that began in the late’ 60s, the 1970s transformed the fashion industry in a way that had never been seen before. The diversity in style and allowance for self-expression opened the door for a decade that was not to be confined by one single trend, rather a mix of them ranging from hippie to punk. Pop Art and psychedelic themes continued to prevail, with touches of Art Nouveau and Edwardian flair that created a sense of stylish nostalgia. People felt a new sense of freedom after the Civil Rights, women’s liberation, and gay liberation movements as they lead to social dictates being broken and elite fashion house’s influence to falter.
The antiwar movement and arrival of two totally new music genres pushed boundaries, creating a division in style and entirely new aesthetics. Some may credit this decade for birthing androgyny as men and women truly began sporting similar styles in everything from pants to makeup. Cross dressing truly saw a new appeal with the now accepted sexual awakening, finding inspiration within the Rocky Horror Picture Show’s charming look at androgynous glamour. The seventies also birthed the disco era where pop groups like Abba captured the attention and affection of youthful audiences. Saturday Night Fever was an iconic display of this period’s trends and when paired with David Bowie’s outrageous style, glam rock became its own fashion genre.
Rocky Horror Picture Show screengrab
(image credits to nonada.com)
The Disco movement was met with anarchy when the punk movement arrived; a group of young people who defined themselves as anti-fashion were committed to cutting up and destroyed old clothing to be repurposed. Doc Martens, an influx of piercings, chains, and colorful hair typically accessorized this look that was completely polarized from the disco aesthetic. Tarten, checkers, leather, studs, and deep hues defined this style and though they wanted to be anti-fashion, they created a mainstream trend of their own. This punk approach was directly correlated with rocker music styles becoming grungier and taboo. The Sex Pistols shot to fame and their manager, Malcolm Maclaren, married iconic designer Vivienne Westwood and created a shop that clothed the band as well as the public in popular punk inspired fashions.
Designer Vivienne Westwood punk style
(image credits to pinterest.com)
The coveted miniskirt was still in style, but it wasn’t as essential to this decade in the same way it was in the ‘60s. As women began dressing more freely, they had more power to choose and mix silhouettes on a daily basis without backlash. Mini, maxi, and midi skirts, hot pants, and high-waisted bell bottomed jeans were all worn without restriction. A huge source of inspiration for this decade’s styles is New York City’s Studio 54 with long floating fabrics and batwing sleeves, starkly contrasting the tight fitting hotpants. New synthetic materials like rayon, polyester, jersey, and blends allowed for knock offs of high end designs to appear in departments stores, giving the everyday woman a chance to inexpensively up her style. Denim truly developed during the ‘70s and Levis jeans with extremely tight waists became a hit with both men and women. Body suits were en vogue as layered styles prevailed; the pieces could be leotard style or full lengths cat suits and were staples in the disco scene where ease of movement was key. Dian von Furstenberg’s 1971 wrap dress was a cult favorite as a versatile piece that was appropriate for all body types and occasions. Yves Saint Laurent pioneered popular peasant motifs with skirts gathered into tiers and dropped should lines that pair perfectly with leotards.
Designer Yves Saint Laurent in 1974
(image credit to catwalkyourself.com)
Jewelry and accessories in this period we all about making a statement. Layering thin necklaces was all the rage and pendants were large and attention grabbing. More natural materials came into circulation, particularly wood, stone, shell, and bone that complimented ethnic and bohemian style. Pieces adorned with fur and pearls with popular and worked well with the abundance of styles and interest in texture. Cocktail rings and dangling earrings were still popular from the previous decade, thriving with the rise of disco glam. Elsa Peretti dominated the jewelry industry, creating iconic designs like the Bone Cuff and Open Heart Necklace for Tiffany & Co. in the mid-seventies. These two styles remain popular, along with the Cartier Love Bracelet that can be seen on every starlet’s wrist from 1970 to 2018. The Bulgari Monete necklace was loved by Susan Sarandon and Jane Fonda; the collection featured Grecian and Roman motifs that were reminiscent of the designers home country and held real coins from those locations.
Bulgari Monete Necklace
(image credits to worthy.com)
Icons of this decade are not hard to identify as flamboyant personalities shone through brightly in their personal style and appearance. Debbie Harry was a true punk icon; the lead singer of the band Blondie had two-toned bleached hair and a rebellious aesthetic that screamed antiestablishment. Bianca Jagger, the first wife of musician Mick Jagger, was a socialite and lover of all things seventies glam. She was commonly seen in long hooded dresses and jumpsuits with her close friends Andy Warhol and supermodel Lauren Hutton, both of which are ‘70s icons that roamed the grounds of Studio 54.
Though it seems that the ‘80s and ‘90s are going through a major modern revival, don’t think that the 1970s are far behind. In fact, many of the trends birthed in this decade have remained in style since their conception; punk chic has never gone out of circulation and denim still is a closet staple. Bell bottoms and high-waisted styles paired with flatforms are favorites of influencers and look great paired with the timeless Cartier Love Bracelet. Whether you’re feeling punky or funky, we have something in our eclectic collection that will revolutionize your style!
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Wild on the Runway with Animal Print by Morgan Watkins
Wild on the Runway with Animal Print
by Morgan Watkins
Roaring down the runways of both New York and London Fashion Week, animal print is the trend designers and fashion connaisseurs are pouncing on this year. While wild, animal spotted designs have withstood the test of fashion time, it has completely dominated shows all around from SS'18 thru SS'19.
(Versace SS'18)
The word “catwalk” took on a whole new meaning at NYFW AW'18, where Tom Ford used structured leopard print jackets to add an edge to otherwise softer fringe ensembles. Christian Siriano went all out with sheer leopard tops, tiger striped sets, and cheetah print dresses and accessories.
(Tom Ford AW'18)
London Fashion Week continued to celebrate this spotted trend as Riccardo Tisci made his Burberry debut with provocative Bambi-dedicated menswear and cowhide inspired miniskirts.
(Burberry SS'19)
Fashion lovers far and wide have been sporting the trend for a hot minute, with Réalisation Par’s leopard printed Naomi skirt being a staple in countless It Girls’ closets. Cheetah print is another street style classic, plastered on cropped trousers and mini handbags.
With tiger stripes, snakeskin and other animal prints still on the rise, it’s safe to say these wild prints are here to stay on the top of the fashion food chain.
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Animal Print: A Timeless Classic by Paige Mckirahan
Animal Print: A Timeless Classic
by Paige McKirahan
As a cult classic that never seems to be out of style, animal print is a quintessential industry trend with its reputation ranging from high fashion couture to cheap ready-to-wear.
Society’s fascination with animal-inspired clothing and accessories has been ongoing for centuries; the true embodiment of the statement oldie-but-goodie, animal print has been in circulation since ancient Egyptian times. Pelts and skins were adorned by those in power to show their prestige and if those items weren’t available, the prints were stenciled onto linen sheaths.
Characteristics of the particular animal are thought to be transferred to the print’s wearer and these motifs are widely regarded as erotic. It is said to that the wearer tends to utilize the prints to accomplish some social goal whether the use is subconscious or deliberate.Of course, the style has become increasingly popular in the past 100 years as fashion has evolved to be more expressive. One pioneer of this popularity is starlet Marian Nixon; in 1925, she strolled down Hollywood boulevard in a leopard skin coat with her pet leopard on a leash alongside her, turning heads (and most likely causing traffic jams.)
The print then became the posterchild for Hollywood glam as it was widely used by MGM costume designers (Hello, 1932’s Tarzan!) and has been a staple on runways for decades after. The print more so than the fur became fashionable in the late 1940s after Christian Dior’s spring/summer collection, then again after designer Rudi Gernreich produced an animal inspired collection for the movie Basic Black in 1968.
From ‘80s glamazon to early 2000s chic, everyone from Kate Moss to Mrs. Robinson have let their wild side run with these designs that ooze confidence and intimidation.Marian Nixon with her pet leopard (photo credit to pinterest.com)
It’s a style your mother wore and most likely your grandmother before her, making animal print a timeless yet relevant motif. Some say that the use of the print should be limited to accessories and accents, but we say why restrict yourself? Whether you want to adorn yourself with the print from head to toe or want to adopt a subtler approach, our collection is sure to have you roaring with excitement!