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Marsha P. Johnson's impact to the trans community
Marsha P. Johnson and her impact to the trans community
by Flavia Lobato
By throwing the first brick, she along with Sylvia Rivera began the historic Stonewall Riots that would forever highlight LGBT rights. Both Marsha P. Johnson and Sylvia Rivera were gay rights activists, transgender women, and people of color living in the tumultuous era of the 1960s. One morning in 1969 on Christopher St. in New York City, Marsha P. Johnson, Sylvia Rivera, and a number of other LGBT individuals were enjoying their stay at the Stonewall Inn. This was until a police raid was conducted, and Marsha P. Johnson took matters into her own hands and stood up for not only her rights but also for the rights for the millions of other LGBT individuals that must live in ridicule just for being who they are. Ms. Johnson took to the streets along with her other activist friends and lead the first major wave of riots. The Stonewall Riots would be one of the most important events that would lead up to the gay liberation movement and later modern LGBT rights in America.
As an African American transgender women, Johnson is often overlooked in the discussion of LGBT rights. The erasure of her perspective from both the media and our history books omits the contributions that people of color and the transgender community have contributed to the LGBT movement thus far. Without her bravery in starting those riots just 50 years ago, there would be no spark that would ignite not only the Gay Pride March but also the advancements in the human rights advocacy. We stand not only in solidarity with Marsha P. Johnson, but also with the millions of other transgender individuals around the world. We see you, we hear you, you matter, and your history won’t be erased from our pages. -
London Fashion Week SS'19 Accessories Trend Spotlight
London Fashion Week SS'19 Accessories Trend Spotlight
By Paige McKirahan
Welcome back to the Talkingfashion blog, fashion week lovers! Today, we have decided to take a look at the latest and greatest trends from London Fashion Week that spanned from September 14th to the 18th!
Many of the aesthetics and motifs from NYFW carried over across the pond, with ‘80s references and bright color schemes presented by a multitude of talented designers.
Animal inspired designs roared in Richard Quinn’s and Christopher Kane’s emphatic collections, both of which used prints and feathers to convey animalistic desires. There were fun themes put on display in lines that boasted mile high head pieces from Pam Hogg and a reimagining of fairytales by Ryan Lo!Feminine aesthetics saturated collections with silk scarves and flowing details, perfectly accenting prim and proper designs seen in Riccardo Tisci’s first show for Burberry. Neon accessories and clothing were key in London (looking at you, ‘80s revival!) with single, dangling earrings in bright hues and large colorful hoops making statements in Fyodor Golan’s line.
Transparent pieces also channeled the ‘80s and ‘90s with Lucite lightning bolts and clear headpieces spicing up already flamboyant clothing designs. Androgynous styles originally popularized in the ‘70s are also a huge hit for this upcoming spring as Erdem Moralioglu’s Edwardian collection paid homage to male and female cross dressers throughout time.
Novelty bags and jewelry were the center of attention as vegetable inspired clutches were spotted accompanying models down the runway during Molly Goddard’s show. If you’re not into vegetable motifs, don’t worry; Peter Pilotto hopped on the novelty bag bandwagon as well with their ornate oversized and over-beaded bags.
In addition to food inspired designs, we also saw whimsical accessories inspired by bugs, flowers, and other household items in Matty Bovan’s collaboration with Coach.
If you’re tired of ‘80s aesthetic dominating, look to the revival of ‘60s tie dye this upcoming year as the colorful print is back and better than ever. Feeling like getting a head start on spring shopping or just looking for an excuse to buy some amazing new accessories? Check out our collections for pieces following all of SS ‘19’s trends!
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The 1990s: The Battle of Street Style and Minimalism
The 1990s: The Battle of Street Style and Minimalism
By Paige McKirahan
Taking the crown as one of my favorite decades, the 1990s signified a transition from ‘80s garish to new age minimalism. Though it is difficult to assess the history of a fashion that seems as if it is still in style, there are some trends that aren’t as prominent as they once were (thankfully). In a time were technology was advancing at a higher pace than ever, it truly seems as if this decade is the beginning of modern society. Yes, we have seen an influence from Hollywood for decades, but pop culture affected fashion in an entirely new way during this period with the rise of boy bands, pop-stars, R&B, and the supermodel era.
Though ‘90s clothing still found inspiration in ‘80s silhouettes, it was the first to instigate a ‘60s revival. Loose and oversized styles remained while being complimented by mini-skirts, mini dresses, and tighter styles. Space age aesthetics reigned as white tones, metallic, and references to cosmology were widely popularized. Similar to the ‘60s, this decade saw a division of styles come into circulation and the two main groups can be roughly separated into street style and elegant minimalism. The ladder included a colorless palette with silky, leathery, and velvety fabrics. Silhouettes were linear and simple boasting a relatively neutral color palette. Looking “rich” became cool again and the popularity of name brand designers was restored. They followed the shape of the ideal body which was, at the time, slim and toned. Need help visualizing this aesthetic? Reflect back to ‘90s Calvin Klein or Armani.
Kate Moss in ‘90s Calvin Klein
(photo credit to pinterest.com)
Street style was absolutely the opposite. Garnering influence from sports and hip hop, this was a trend that had attitude and a sense of boldness never seen before. MTV could be seen on every television and artist’s laid back styles gave copious amounts of inspiration for streetwear lovers. It was oversized, sporty, and relaxed, boasting large t-shirts with bold prints as the center of attention. Women also loved crop tops and loose fitting, high waisted jeans. Bomber jackets and boots, especially Timberlands, could be seen on rappers and young women alike. This style loved denim, and also used hints of leather and fleece to make oversized sweaters more comfortable than ever. The ‘90s were the first decade where sneakers came into their own, shooting themselves to high fashion status; Vans, Converse, Nikes (especially ones endorsed by athletes), Reeboks, Jordans, and New Balances could be seen on even those most well versed in fashion.
Tyra Banks ‘90s street style
(image credits to pinterest.com)
Preppy and grunge aesthetics reigned along with street style as movie stars and musicians were the driving force behind stylistic choices. Loved by affluent teenagers, preppy style was inspired by Clueless and Ivy League trends. Blazers, polos, all things Ralph Lauren, and plaid was worn everywhere; mini-skirts, crop tops, and everything in between could be seen covered in bright colors or with preppy motifs. Leisure style for this trend included denim overalls, which are loved by all style communities in this decade.
Grunge, on the other hand, finds in inspiration for its vision in bands like Nirvana and actress Drew Barrymore. Those that were interested in this style have similar taste to punk lovers of the ‘70s, but in a more subdued manner. These wardrobes included an assortment of jackets, sweaters, skirts, and footwear with a worn in look that made it hard for couture designers to have successful collections in this aesthetic.
Kurt Cobain in grunge style
(image credit to retrowaste.com)
Jewelry trends in the 90s moved away from the flashiness of the ‘80s and had a more minimal aesthetic. Swatch watches, slap bracelets, anklets, toe rings, and puka shell necklaces all were beloved accessories in this decade. Chokers were a youthful favorite that have been revived in the late 2010s, and scrunchies have made a comeback as bracelets at the beginning of this year! Tiny sunglasses in an endless supply of bright colors also moved away from the huge specs loved by the ‘80s and ‘70s.
Lucite was a popular material and was commonly used to make chunky rings in bright colors, among other jewelry styles. Celestial motifs, smiley faces, peace signs, and ying-yang icons adorned pieces and gave use a sense of ‘60s nostalgia. Name plate necklaces a la Carrie Bradshaw are just as trendy now as they were then along with hoop earrings of all sizes. This decade also loved the use of crystals and gems in their jewelry, especially if they were color changing depending on your mood.
A mere 20 years ago when all of these trends burst onto the scene, no one could have anticipated their overwhelming popularity in the 2010’s. If you’re loving this ‘90s revival as much as I am, head on over to our collections so you can own some hoops and chokers of your own!
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Fashion Flashback: Brooches & Pins
Fashion Flashback: Brooches & Pins by Morgan Watkins
What do you think of when you see a brooch? Your grandma getting dressed upfor her Sunday morning church service? Queen Elizabeth II at a garden party in England? Well, think again - designers like Chanel, Dolce & Gabbana, and Louis Vuitton are bringing back these flashy pins in a way that’s completely fresh and modern. But how did the dazzling accessories come to be? Read on to hear more about the history of these essential pins.
Initially used to fasten and secure clothing like loin cloths and cloaks, brooches date back even before the Bronze Age, where they were originally constructed out of thorns and flint. As time progressed and more materials became available, new styles and ways to wear brooches emerged. By the Byzantine period, people no longer needed brooches to keep their outfits secure, but they wanted brooches for a number of ornamental reasons.
One brooch style that gained popularity in the 18th and 19th centuries was the mourning brooch. These were normally given to mourning individuals through the will of a deceased loved one. Often times, the brooch was oval shaped and glass, inscribed with the name, date of birth and death date of the loved one who had passed.
(Image from https://artofmourning.com/tag/mourning-brooch/)
On a less somber note, en tremblant brooches were also introduced in the 18th century, and stayed in style well into the 19th century. En tremblant meaning “trembling” or “to tremble,” these sparkling pins featured diamonds arranged in a floral-like design that actually moved and rotated. But these were not the first dazzling pins to take the world by storm, as aigrette brooches, which were set with gems and diamonds to create a feather shape, were introduced in the 17th and 18th centuries. Aigrettes even saw a revival within the 19th and 20th centuries, and were often very detailed and worn in hair.(Image from https://www.bonhams.com/auctions/20714/lot/204/)
Not all brooches were for everybody, though. Take Grand Tour brooches for example. In the 17th century, Grand Tour was a sort of customary European vacation exclusive to young upper class individuals. While on these trips, wealthy travelers bought these sophisticated souvenirs to commemorate their journeys. Characteristically,Grand Tour brooches depicted micro mosaics of landscapes, wildlife and flora.
(Image from http://www.sweaterflair.com/2016/09/29/hello-world/)
One brooch that was available for nearly every social class was the sweetheart brooch. Also known as a love brooch, sweetheart brooches were used as tokens of affection. Around WWI, soldiers would give sweetheart brooches to their loved ones before shipping off. Carved from lightweight silver and decorated with birds, hearts and other lovely and romantic images, these pins could make anyone’s heart melt.(Image from https://booksonwaraustralia.com/badges-and-medals/1670-australian-mizpah-world-war -1-sweetheart-brooch-badge.html)
No matter how you look at brooches, a lot can be said about their history and staying power in the world of fashion. From the Bronze Age to 2018 runways, the brooch is an accessory worth celebrating.
(Image from https://fortrove.com/blogs/news/brooches-make-their-big-comeback-on-fall-2018-runway)
Bibliography
Bernstein, Beth. “A History of Brooches: The Evolution of Style.” The Jewelry Editor, 2016.
“Styles Through History: Brooches.” The Loupe. TrueFacet, Inc., 2016. -
Fashion Flashback: Rings
Fashion Flashback: Rings by Morgan Watkins
Known as a symbol of love, rings are absolutely essential for any accessory lover’s arsenal. They’ve been around for thousands of years, featuring a plethora of various metals and precious stones while gracing the fingers of both royalty and everyday individuals alike. If you’ve ever wondered how this hand-tastic piece of jewelry came to fruition, keep on reading.
The oldest dated rings were discovered in ancient Egyptian tombs dating back as early as 2500 BC. Egyptians in particular greatly valued their accessories, as they were deeply attached to what each piece symbolized. Rings were used as talismans and amulets to ward off hostility and harm. Animals like snakes and scorpions were featured on rings, as they were creatures that evoked fear and protected the wearer. Even when met with death, Egyptians wore their rings and other accessories into the afterlife, hence why so many precious jewels have been discovered in tombs. It was around this time that the exchange of wedding rings was originated. Initially, Egyptians weaved hemp circles to create bands representing a link to immortal love. The fourth finger on your left hand has a vein that runs straight to the heart, which is why it is custom in most countries to wear your wedding ring on your left ring finger. Although women were often seen sporting rings commemorating their marriages long ago, men were rarely seen wearing wedding bands until WWI and WWII, where their rings served as a reminder of the love they had waiting for them back home.
(Image from http://www.grimballjewelers.com/chapel-hill-jewelry-blog/2016/6/9/the-long-history-of-en gagement-rings-and-wedding-rings)
Another symbol often associated with rings in particular is status and class. In early Rome, rings were first made from iron. Only noble individuals, like senators serving ambassadors of the Republic, could indulge in the privilege of wearing gold rings. And although the right to wear gold was eventually granted to all ancient Romans, only those with wealth and power could obtain such expensive goods. While royalty and nobles wore gold and silver adorned with precious jewels, poor commonfolk had to settle for pewter, bronze and copper.
(Image from https://www.peterszuhay.com/ads/ancient-roman-gold-ring-with-intaglio/)
The 16th and 17th centuries saw massive growth in the world of goldsmithing. Bands had become more intricately sculpted as art from the Renaissance era poured in, inspiring unique and fresh innovations. One ring in particular that was designed to be both utilitarian and beautiful was the hinged ring, which could be used to oh-so discreetly carry anything from intoxicating fragrances to deadly poisons. Rubies, emeralds and sapphire came into style as well, arranged in a gaggle of new shapes, sizes and cuts. But this era was not all colorful stones and fun bands. Plagues and deadly diseases served as constant reminders of impending and inescapable mortality, which led to the creation of rings inscribed with skulls, skeletons and caskets. These became known as memento mori rings, and would become a staple of the late 17th century.
(Image from https://talkingfashion.net/products/copy-of-floral-carved-cocktail-ring-vintage-plastic-jew elry)
After the 17th century ended on a low note, the 18th century brought with it a new breath of life in the world of rings. Styles were refined, bands became more delicate and brightly colored gems and stones were arranged in creative new ways, like floral bouquets and ribbons tied into bows. Bezel shapes were elongated and reimagined, leading to the birth of shapes like oval, navette, lozenge and octagonal.
(Image from http://charlottesayers.co.uk/items/18th-century-amethyst-and-diamond-basket-ring/)
The 19th and 20th centuries were also a fantastic representation of creativity in ring design. The diamond solitaire ring became a fan favorite style, as did birthstone engagement rings. These were popularized by none other than Queen Victoria, who wore her May birthstone, an emerald, on her ring finger. By the early to mid 20th century, art deco influenced stimulating and fresh designs. Fun geometric shapes adorned the fingers of those far and wide, serving as a bit of a distraction from the ever so somber Great Depression. Rings were made with cheaper materials but still served as a stylish and easy way for fashion fanatics to accessorize on a tight budget.
(Image from https://talkingfashion.net/products/copy-of-pink-purple-cocktail-ring-sparkling-crystal-rhin estones-adjustable-band-statement-bling-jewelry)
Presently, rings come in all shapes, materials and sizes and can be worn in a myriad of ways. Thankfully, you don’t have to be a Roman ruler to rock a set of sparkling gold rings these days.
(Image from https://talkingfashion.net/products/copy-of-green-jewel-ring-adjustable-bijoux-contempocostume-jewelry)
Bibliography “19th Century Engagement Rings & Trends.” Victor Barbone Jewelry. Victor Barbone Jewelry, 2017. Web.
Amelio-Ortiz, Cuini. “The History of the Ring– the Gold Rings of Ancient Egypt.” World of Gemstones. Rocks & Co, Web.
Cassell, Amy. “History of the Wedding Ring.” Destination Weddings & Honeymoons. Bonnier Corporation, 2012. Web.
“Rings: Ancient to Neoclassical.” Antique Jewelry University. Lang Antique & Estate Jewelry, Web.