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The History of Sustainable Fashion
The History of Sustainable Fashion by Morgan Watkins
With our planet warming and our landfills piling up all across the globe, talks of sustainable living has made room for itself at the dinner table in fashion society. The ever-booming business of fast fashion and the consumer attitude of obsessive excess has projected fashion in a negative light with regards going green initiatives. But many brands and designers are putting their foot down for a future that is as eco-friendly as it is fabulous. Read on to learn about the origins of green fashion and how industry giants are working towards a better, cleaner future.Back in ancient times, civilizations relied entirely on natural materials to construct their clothing. Garments were commonly made of animal hides, skins, furs and bones in order to utilize every part of the creatures they hunted. Leaves and twigs were other resources widely used to clothe individuals, until the practice of weaving came around in Egypt around 3400 B.C. Since then, a multitude of fabrics have been created from both natural and synthetic goods. Common examples of natural fabrics would be cotton and silk, which are characteristically better for the environment as they are made from products that will likely break down over time. Even so, some of these fabrics are treated with harmful chemicals, making them toxic for the environment. Synthetic textiles, which were first introduced in the late 19th century, are harmful to the planet due to their resistance to decompose; think nylon, acrylic and polyester.
(Image from http://www.experience-ancient-egypt.com/ancient-egyptian-culture/ancient-egyptian-life/ ancient-egyptian-clothes)
So when did the production of clothing become an environmental hazard? Let’s jump into the late 18th century, where the sewing machine was invented and factories were popping up rapidly across the United States. Before the Industrial Revolution, and even the decades following, it was common for families to construct their own clothing, which meant smaller closets and less textile waste. But as strip malls and department stores took over the country by the 20th century, post-war consumers were hungry for fast fashion. Corporations fed this hunger, employing child laborers to work long hours and in horrid conditions to produce large quantities of clothes in a short amount of time. Even when labor laws regulated factory conditions, the demand for fashion was through the roof, so production continued to match its pace.
(Image from https://bellatory.com/fashion-industry/Ready-to-Wear-A-Short-History-of-the-Garment-In dustry)
But by the 1960s, things started to change. With political movements surrounding civil rights and anti-Vietnam protests, people began to pay attention to other world issues like pollution, deforestation and a variety of other matters revolving around the planet and its wellbeing. It’s this era that produced the phrase “tree huggers,” as the first Earth Day was celebrated in April of 1970. With the rise of eco-friendly consciousness came the rise of DIY fashion. Hippies began taking on patchworking as a major fashion statement, sewing paisley printed panels into the sides of their bellbottoms to create an extra dramatic flared shape. The act of revamping old clothes and making them new carried over for decades, as bedazzling and embroidering was in during the 80s, 90s and even early 2000s.
(Image from https://www.neimanmarcus.com/p/ag-adriano-goldschmied-angel-high-waist-flare-jeans- 11-years-patchwork-prod180770241)
More recently, designers like Stella McCartney have begun to pave the way for a future in fashion that is eco-friendly and ethical. The brand uses only sustainable fabrics which won’t harm the planet, or uses recycled materials to create fabulous garments and accessories. Not only that but McCartney’s collections are 100% vegan, so you don’t have to fret about the designer’s fashion impact on animals and their ecosystems. Going hand in hand with this initiative is Vancouver and Seattle’s Eco Fashion Week. Similar to all other Fashion Weeks we know and love, this forum features collections that are Earth-conscious and sustainable. Shows first started in Vancouver, B.C. in 2010, where spring collections were sent down the runway. Fall collections were showcased as the event expanded into Seattle, Washington in 2016. Since the birth of this momentous fashion movement, 150 designers have been represented within 12 editions.
(Image from hype beast.com/2018/10/stella-mccartney-spring-summer-2019-runway-paris-fashion-week)
So what can you do to lessen your carbon footprint via fashion? Shop secondhand! Buying vintage or thrifted goods keeps clothes in your closet and out of landfills and incinerators. And if you have pieces you’re considering trashing, stop for a second and decide whether or not the garment can be spruced up or repurposed. Patchwork is in! Just look to Ralph Lauren and Jeremy Scott’s Spring/Summer 2019 collections for inspiration. Or practice adding some delicate floral embroidery to spruce up a simple white tee. Otherwise, donate your clothing to those in need, take them to a thrift store, or sell secondhand with talkingfashion.net! Every step you take towards going green makes a world of difference, no matter how big or small.(Image from https://www.buro247.my/instagram/ralphlauren/13518279)
References:
Atamian, Luna. “Sustainable Fashion Is the Next Fashionable Thing.” Huffington Post, 12 Sept. 2017, https://www.huffingtonpost.com/entry/sustainable-fashion-is-the-next-fashionable-thing_ us_59b7e84de4b08f6632c076f9.
Farra, Emily. “Stella McCartney Discusses How Sustainable Fashion Can Be Sexy—And ‘How Technology Can Save Us.’” Vogue, 12 Oct. 2017, https://www.vogue.com/article/vogue-forces-of-fashion-stella-mccartney-sustainable. Gonzalez, Nyelli. “A Brief History of Sustainable Fashion.” Triple Pundit, 19 Feb. 2015,https://www.triplepundit.com/special/sustainable-fashion-2014/brief-history-sustainable-f ashion/.
Loewe, Emma. “Meet The Sustainable Fabrics That Will Kick-Start Your Capsule Wardrobe.” Mbg Planet,https://www.mindbodygreen.com/0-28720/meet-the-sustainable-fabrics-that-will-kickstar t-your-capsule-wardrobe.html.
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From Catholicism to Couture: The Fashion Cross
From Catholicism to Couture: The Fashion Cross
By Paige McKirahan
Fashion is like a religion for some, so it is only customary that it finds inspiration in true religious symbols. Moving away from its original use as a Christian icon, the cross has now made its mark in the couture world. The “fashion cross” is definitely not a new phenomenon, but people now more than ever are wearing it purely for aesthetic purposes. Starting in the ‘80s, the popularity of this symbol as an figure in the fashion industry exploded as the punk movement made controversial pieces cornerstones in their style. If you have ever seen pop culture and haute couture icons Madonna or Lady Gaga on stage, you have definitely seen this trend on display.
Lady Gaga and Madonna sporting crosses
(photo credits to thecut.com)
The cross has been referred to as the “ultimate shape”; whether they are used in a true religious context or not, their wearers seem to be fascinated with the object’s spiritualism. This symbol can be worn to make a statement that is thought provoking or even to express artistic interest. Bolder variations are a hit with rappers and performers alike, and they prefer to wear them covered in diamonds. Crosses are commonly seen on necklaces and rings, while also being the inspiration for thousands of clothing designs worn by everyone from celebrities to your favorite street style aficionados.
Nevertheless, there are those who are religious and choose not to wear the symbol, while there are other that don’t wear it simply because they fear it would be offensive. In the wake of this year’s Met Gala, an event whose entire theme was based upon the intermingling of Catholicism and fashion, brought this conversation of right and wrong to the forefront. This fundraising affair for the museum saw the artists from all mediums step out in cross-covered ensembles from Versace to McQueen. There were even over 50 pieces given directly from the Vatican for the exhibit that went hand in hand with the religious theme.
Madonna in her element at the 2018 Met Gala
(photo credits the dailymail.com)
Despite the controversy surrounding the use of religious motifs for fashion contexts, it is obvious that the past few decades have changed the standards regarding what is fair game in the world of trends. Head over to our collection and find a wide array of cross accessories that are sure to add some flair to any outfit!
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Floral Patterns Bloom in Fashion
Floral Patterns Bloom in Fashion
By Paige McKirahan
From Dia de los Muertos style to spring classics, florals have always been one of fashion's most beloved patterns. In jewelry and clothing alike, this natural motif can be traced back hundreds of years; of course, they were present in many ancient cultures dating back to the 12th century, but we saw the true culmination of this aesthetic in the 19th century. At this time, textile production saw a huge increase on account of the Industrial Revolution. This paired with the newfound “floral language” boosted botanic influence tenfold and echoed romantic themes from the past. This "language" essentially used specific flowers and arrangements to send messages that could not be spoken aloud in Victorian times. Victorian age society saw its peoples begin to carry floral dictionaries and exchanged “talking bouquets” that could be worn as fashion accessories.
Later in this century, we saw Impressionists and Art Nouveau enthusiasts alike take interest in East Asian art styles that featured exotic floral patterns. They can be credited with starting a trend surrounding Orientalism that spanned until World War II. This 20th century interest was transformative; floral motifs became popular in the accessory world and we saw a burst in the use of florals as a whole. Tropical aesthetics seen in the ‘50s and ‘80s along with hippie style in the ‘60s and ‘70s were huge trends and true indicators of their time.
Presently, flower patterns have established themselves as part of “eternal fashion”: their longstanding popularity has never faltered and there are a wide variety of patterns appealing to all styles. Read on to see five of the most prominent floral patterns in fashion to review for this upcoming spring!
These florals tend to be lively scenes that use shapes, lines, and colors to create abstract patterns.
This floral style was birthed from the Art Nouveau movement that was characterized by its feminine and liberated aesthetic.
Retro florals tend to be in muted tones with a more geometric style. They feature strong bursts of color, and are reminiscent of the fashion in the 1960s.
This style of botanical pattern uses different shapes and colors to create bright designs that hint at floral motifs.
Ditsy motifs include small flowers in an all-over design, creating a simple but fun pattern.
For all of these styles and more, check out our floral collection and let your style bloom!
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Designer Spotlight of the Week: Missoni
Designer Spotlight of the Week: Missoni
By Paige McKirahan
Considering our discussion of color and patterns in the fashion world this week, it was only appropriate to spotlight one of the most iconic brands of all time that put colorful knitwear front and center. Missoni, which was established in 1953, is now a global label that has established its high profile image by experimenting with stripes, plaids, patchworks, mosaics, zigzags, and wild patterns intertwined with vibrant color combinations. This Italian fashion house was founded by Ottavio Missoni and his wife Rosita; since the brand’s conception, the Missoni family has become famous for their values and closeness. As their brand developed, Rosita became the house’s business manager while Ottavio used his exception eye for color to be the genius behind their color palettes. Since then, it has been run by three generations of Missonis and is now in the hands of the creators’ daughter, Angela, who has made the brand into what it is today. Now that we know about who created Missoni and when, let’s look more into the dynamic history of one of fashion’s most quintessential labels.
When the brand first was created, it began producing tracksuits for the Italian Olympic team as Ottavio was formerly an athletic sprinter. The pair continued manufacturing athletic wear until they took interest in knitting machines. Soon after, they discovered the Raschel machine; after using a technique known as fiammata, or flames, the machine created a knitted fabric with an intricately weaved zigzag pattern. This 1962 discovery birthed their iconic design as they could only create stripes in simple structures prior to the Raschel.
Ottavio Missoni
(photo credits to amara.com)
Their first runway show in 1967 put their unique style on the map and by the 1970s, they were recognized worldwide for their artisanal craftsmanship. They used a variety of materials including wool, cotton, linen, rayon, and silk with over forty colors that made their fun patterns pop. Two of the brand’s biggest fan included Anna Piaggi and Diana Vreeland, and magazines all over the world were pining for Missoni’s hippy-chic designs to grace their pages. The brand began experimenting with chevrons, waves, prints, and scalloping, but their zigzag pattern still held the crown as their most popular style. In 1972, the New York Times even went as far as declaring that Missioni’s knitwear had become an “international status symbol, like Vuitton bags and Gucci shoes”.
1970s Missoni
(photo credit to pinterest.com)
As the ‘70s progressed, Missoni was applying their iconic patterns to everything from accessories to home goods. They officially launched a home label in 1983 and has been ever-expanding since. In addition to accessories and homeware, they have also produced swimwear and fragrances. They have even collaborated with huge brands like Target and Havaianas to make their iconic designs more accessible to a wider market. Buyers were so enthused that their designs could be seen in Target that it crashed the retailer’s website after the release. Missoni aesthetics can be seen out of the home as well as the brand opened a series of themes hotel with their interiors being adorned with colorful zigzags.
Missoni for Target
(photo credit to target.com)
The family run company has Angela at its head, who completely reimaged the company’s image to be sure it reflected her parent’s original values. She has held the position of design director for twenty years and over this time has altered the marketing approach to cater to more urban and youthful clientele. She has done this through a multitude of extensive campaigns, most notably with fashion photographer extraordinaire Mario Testino. Her daughter and brothers are also active in the company; her daughter Margherita serves as her assistant while her brothers, Vittorio and Luca, work in more technical fields of sales and research. The family is careful about partnerships and licensing agreements, but they do have over 20 that extend into women’s wear, men’s wear, children’s fashions, accessories, and home furnishings. They even have made partnerships with automobile manufacturers to create fabrics for car interiors.
Missoni Fiat Interior
(photo credits to magazineauto.com)
However you like to interact with the Missoni brand, it is evident that throughout its lifespan, the brand has stayed true to their original values. At the forefront of fashion since its conception, the designs themselves have become iconic and occupy every design medium. If you are looking to sport some Missoni flair of your own, head over to our collection and snag some of our favorites!
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Color and Fashion: Effects on Mood
Color and Fashion: Mood
By Paige McKirahan
Welcome back, TalkingFashion readers! Does our last black and white article have you feeling down? Did the Pantone colors make you feel energized and excited? Artists and psychologists alike have come to the conclusion that colors tend to have a powerful effect on one’s mood and emotions. Like clothing, color can be an impactful communication tool that can convey feelings and prompt action; we have to ask now, though, how exactly does color affect our moods and behaviors?
Despite the fact that the perceptions regarding the emotional effects of color are relatively subjective, some have deep rooted connotations. For example, warm colors such as red, orange, and yellow can evoke a range of emotions from comfort to anger. Cooler colors, such as blue, purple, and green, tend to prompt feelings of calmness or sadness. In fact, blue is considered to be the most highly favored color; its association with good things like clean water, clear skies, or beautiful gemstones give it this popular reputation. People typically prefer colors that they associate with things they consider to be good or things they love, and this preference can influence their purchases tenfold.
Even though it seems as if there should be a wide range of research supporting claims about color and their connotations, the psychology behind color and mood is relatively undocumented. Regardless, it is important to continue delving deep into the study of these preferences in order to further understand human nature. Read on below to see how each color is said to affect emotions (as well as some pieces in our shop that can help you test the effects of these hues)!
Black:
Though black tends to be highly associated with feels of evil and unhappiness, it can also have more positive connotations regarding power, professionalism, and mysticism.
Blue:
Other than sadness, blue is commonly associated with good things like calmness, loyalty, and tranquility.
Red:
Some feel that red can correlates to more intense emotions like passion, aggression, love, or excitement.
Green:
Envy is one color most widely associated with green, but it can also prompt feelings of hope and success.
Yellow and Orange:
As one of some of only colors with no real negative connotations, yellow and orange hues both tend to cue feelings of happiness, optimism, and energy.
Purple:
As a cool color, purple has undertones that point to luxury, wisdom, wealth, and royalty.
White:
When looking at white, expect to associate it with ideas of purity, innocence, and cleanliness.
Keep an eye on the blog this week for more discussions of color, pattern, and style in fashion!