Magnifying the History of Binoculars

By Paige McKirahan

 

As a direct descendent of the telescope, binoculars are a little bit more portable; whether you need a close look at a sporting event or are trying to see some big game in the woods, the functionality of binoculars are unmatched. The question we are posing, though, is how this steampunk-approved device came into circulation. 

 

 

Though the birth of the telescope is seen as somewhat of a mystery in the realm of history and science, Hans Libbershey is the first to be credited with the invention. The Holland based spectacle-maker was the first to attempt obtaining a patent for the star-gazing instrument in 1608, making it widely known regardless of his connection to its creation. Galileo Galilei, the great Italian scientist, introduced the device to astronomy in the following year; he used it be the first to see craters on the moon, as well as sunspots, Jupiter’s moons, and Saturn’s rings. This telescope begun an astronomical revolution and consisted of two lenses: the objective and the eyepiece. The objective were the convex lenses and the concave lenses at the eye-facing end were dubbed the eyepiece

 

 

Two of Galileo’s first telescopes

(image credit to pinterest.com)

These lenses allowed Galileo to magnify objects up to thirty times, but a major design flaw regarding back draw gave the telescope a very narrow field of vision, forcing the user to constantly move the device when viewing details in the distance. Looking to combat this flaw, Johann Voigtlander did so by creating the first set of binoculars, affectionately known as Galilean binoculars, in the 1820s. After he managed to repair the back draw issue, he also added eye tubes, which are used to better focus images.

 

Galilean binoculars

(Image credit to Wikipedia.com)

This style was extremely popular for the next three decades in the theatre, social events, and outdoor activities. They were often detailed with pearls, silver, gold, bone, or colored leather and were modified to resemble fancy glasses used at the opera. In 1854, though, a new type of binoculars took hold of the public; Italian optician Ignazio Porro’s innovative Porro Prism binoculars had a wider range and were better performing than their predecessor, making Galilean styles almost obsolete. From then on, inventors and innovators continued developing new binocular designs, ultimately shaping them into what they are today. Steampunk connoisseurs and sportsman alike love the instruments, with the former being more so interested in vintage, rustic styles. The creation of the piece and the overall look fits perfectly into the steampunk aesthetic and allows those dressing in the style to display their love for innovation.

 

Opera glasses and steampunk binoculars 

(image credits to pinterest.com)

Fashion Flashback: Scarves & Foulards by Morgan Watkins

 

With fall kicking up crunchy orange leaves followed by the wafting aroma of all things pumpkin spice, it is due time for the return of one of autumn’s most beloved accessories: the scarf. While they can be worn all year round in an endless combination of styles and fabrics, scarves and foulards are the epitome of the colder season to come. Read on to learn more about where these cozy accessories originated and how they’ve evolved over past centuries.

 

 

It was in Ancient Egypt that the first recorded scarf was worn. Queen Nefertiti, a woman known for her beauty and her reign alongside husband, Pharaoh Akhenaten, wore a scarf tightly around her neck around 1350 B.C. Later on in 230 B.C., cloth scarves were used to show military rank among the people of China while under the rule of Emperor Cheng. Silk equated to higher level positions, while those of lower ranks donned scarves made of cotton. This trend in establishing rank would carry onto the 1600s, where Croatian mercenaries wore scarves, or “cravats,” of varying colors to display who stood where on the military totem pole.

 

 

By the 1700s, scarves became a symbol of condolences In New England as they were handed on to mourning families by funeral attendees. Eventually, Massachusetts legislature determined that this form of “funeral extravagance” would be no more and passed a law barring the exchange of scarves. It was around this time that the knit scarf came to fruition via the Third Duke of Krakow, who wanted a scarf that would keep his neck warm as opposed to serving solely as a fashion statement.

 

 

Another man who enjoyed a lovely scarf was the famously renowned composer, Beethoven, who was said to have worn a silk scarf paired with dapper suits in an attempt to woo his beloved Therese Malfatti. Over time, silk scarves became even more popular as they were used as accessories to define status and wealth in the early 1800s and throughout the entirety of the Victorian Era. Within this timeframe, designers known for their scarves, like Hermès and Burberry, were born. Unfortunately, it took an entire century before Hermès dove into creating their notoriously iconic graphic silk scarves. Burberry, the brand famous for their signature plaid accessories, also would not design their cashmere neckwear until the mid-to-late 1900s.

 

(Image from https://www.therealreal.com/products/women/accessories/scarves-and-shawls/hermes-l es-cles-silk-scarf-NG6-VbjUHGE)

Dance culture also had an impact on the rise of scarves in history. Back in the later 1200s, Egyptian belly dancers commonly wore scarves tied low on the hips to accentuate their movements and style. Fast forward to the early 1900s and long, flowing scarves were trending, thanks to dancer Isadora Duncan. Duncan ironically passed away from an accident involving the tangling of her scarf with an automobile wheel, but the memory of her most cherished accessory lived on. Fur scarves took over French fashion in the 30s, while wearing neckwear around the forehead was in vogue during the hippy days of the 70s.

 

 

(Image from https://talkingfashion.net/products/fur-velvet-scarf-brown-slim-long-luxurious-vintage-acc essory)

It is worth noting that scarves and foulards are not merely worn by individuals to superficially boost the overall aesthetic of an outfit, as they can be worn for religious and cultural purposes as well. Colorful and patterned head scarves may be worn by African women, or women of African descent, to celebrate their heritage and culture. Muslim women don hijabs as a symbol of modesty and religious virtue, while turbans are seen on the heads of men and women practising Sikhism. Last year, Nike disclosed that they would begin selling performance hijabs for athletes of Muslim faith, taking a grand step in the right direction towards including Muslim individuals in American culture as well as standing in solidarity for Muslim rights.

 

(Image from https://www.usatoday.com/story/news/world/2017/12/20/nike-begins-selling-sports-hijab -muslim-female-athletes/970226001/)

From easy breezy infinity scarves to free flowing cashmere wraps, scarves offer endless possibilities to style and accessorize your look. Regardless of what kind of scarf you wear or why you wear it, these accessories are reliable, simple staples available to all genders, ages, cultures and faiths. If you’re in the market for a fancy foulard or to sell a snazzy scarf, check out talkingfashion.net for some sleek styles and consignment options!

 

References:

“THE HISTORY OF SCARVES: A TIMELINE.” Scarves.net, 25 Jan. 2012, https://www.scarves.net/blogs/scarves/the-history-of-scarves-a-timeline. Stanglin, Doug.

“Nike Begins Selling Sports Hijab for Muslim Female Athletes.” USA Today, 20 Dec. 2017, https://www.usatoday.com/story/news/world/2017/12/20/nike-begins-selling-sport s-hijab-muslim-female-athletes/970226001/.

Scarves Throughout Time

 By Paige McKirahan 

 

Calling all scarf lovers! Have you ever wondered how this beloved trend came into circulation? Well, wonder no more! With origins tracing their way back to ancient Eastern cultures, the high-brow accessory has come a long way since its days of being used as a sweat cloth!

The use of a scarf as an accessory is said to be pioneered by none other than Queen Nefertiti in 1350 BC Egypt; the headscarf at that time was a status symbol that alluded to royalty and nobility, both of which were qualities possessed by the Queen. She is said to have worn a tightly woven scarf (or scarf-like fabric) under her iconic cone-shaped headpiece. China used the scarf as a symbol of status as well, but in the military more than in government or with royalty. Scarves were used as early as 1000 BC in Chinese military uniform to denote rank; higher ranks typically had scarves made of finer materials and lower ranks were cut from fabrics like cotton. It also has less glamorous roots in Rome, where its general purpose was not for style, but to help people keep clean. The utilitarian version of the scarf was used primarily in 10 AD as a sweat cloth with men wearing them so often that they became an accessory. They were worn either around the neck, draped over the shoulder, or knotted around the waist (similar to how they’re worn today!)

 

Chinese military statues illustrating the use of scarves around the neck, showing rank

(image credits to collegefashion.net)

As time progressed, scarves began transforming into something that was less functional and more fashionable. It is said that Napoleon gifted his wife Josephine a pashmina scarf upon his return from Egypt. At first, she was weary of the gift as it was exotic and not something that was typically worn in their culture (yet). Despite this, she is noted to have become an avid collector, accumulating over 400 scarves in three years that totaled to be worth around $80,000! When the cravat stepped on the scene in Paris in the 17^th century, it emulated military styling in the way that it was tied around the neck or, on occasion, brought up around the bottom half of the face. The French Revolution popularized this style and encouraged wearers to experiment with color and style to demonstrate their devotion to a particular side.

 

A French Cravat

(image credit google.com)

From this point on, scarves began to make their way into the mainstream, especially after Queen Victoria’s ascension to the throne. In the early 1800s, she regularly wore glamorous silk scarves and shawls featuring a variety of eccentric patterns. This 19^th century boom in popularity pushed manufacturers to experiment with a multitude of fabrics including cloth, cashmere, wool mixes, muslin, modal and of course, silk. Following this, the First World War transformed knitting from a hobby to a war duty, and women all over the world knitted scarves for soldiers in the air and in the trenches. Pilots used both knitted and silk scarves, with the silk providing protection from neck chafing.

 

Queen Victoria in blue silk scarf

 (photo credit to hi-fi-audio.com)

Quite possibly one of the most important contributions to the widespread fame of the scarf was made by Thierry Hermes’ fashion house; in 1937, the French designer created the first luxury silk scarf, which was crafted from imported raw Chinese silk. The raw material was woven into high quality fabric that was stronger and heavier than any other scarf material of the time. For the final touch, images and patterns would be hand-printed onto the piece to turn them into beautiful, vibrant accessories. Though the scarves were coveted by many, they were widely unaffordable on account of their expensive construction. When rayon was invented in the 1930s, it perfectly mimicked silk for a fraction of the price; this advancement allowed more people to become involved with the trend. The outbreak of World War II forced this material to be rationed, and scarves became more of a necessity rather than a fun addition to an outfit. Women operating machinery needed a way to secure their long hair to ensure it would not be swept away, prompting them to wear the scarves to do so.

 

First Hermes scarf c. 1937

(photo credit to vintagefashionguide.com)

Nevertheless, scarves returned to their glamorous origins after the war when Hermes beloved style became a favorite of the globe’s most well know starlets. Audrey Hepburn and Brigitte Bardot both wore them either around the neck or on the head; Hepburn loved the style and even went as far as saying, “When I wear a silk scarf I never feel so definitely like a woman, a beautiful woman.” The Princess Grace Kelly herself wore a silk scarf on a 1956 cover for LIFE magazine, and made headlines when she used one as an arm sling later in the year. Even Queen Elizabeth II wore a Hermes scarf when photographed for postage stamps, and loved the style so much that she continues sporting it to this day!

 

Queen Elizabeth and Grace Kelly in Hermes designs

(photo credits pinterest.com) 

This revival pushed scarves reputation as a luxury accessory and many fashion houses took it with stride as they began transferring their signature patterns, logos, and styles onto to fabrics. This continued through the ‘80s, but in the ‘90s, the market moved away from silk scarves and the public began searching for more innovative accessories. In the 2000s, we have seen some scarf revivals, especially in the past few years as many are beginning to favor vintage styles rather than modern aesthetics. Many “it” girls will now tie scarves around their necks, or even tie them to handbags to make them stand out from the crowd! Regardless of trend, we here at TalkingFashion have been scarf lovers from the start! If you want to emulate royalty or are simply looking for a stylish way to hold back your hair, check out our scarf collection; there is sure to be something for everyone from scarf savants to doubtful debutantes!

Fashion Flashback: Handbags by Morgan Watkins

 

Traditionally, accessories have been thought of as tools to spruce up an otherwise simple or lacking outfit. Rings, bracelets, necklaces and more are seen as strictly ornamental in most modern day cultures. But one accessory that breaks that mold is the handbag. Convenient and cute, handbags stand alone in the world of accessorizing as practical and handy safety blankets for individuals worldwide. According to National Geographic, the oldest handbag known to man dates back all the way to 2500 to 2200 B.C. Discovered in Germany, the ancient purse was found containing a flap adorned with over 100 dog teeth.

 

(Image from https://news.nationalgeographic.com/news/2012/06/120627-worlds-oldest-purse-dog-te eth-science-handbag-friederich/)

 

Even more interesting, handbags were initially carried by both men and women in early times. Before pockets were introduced in the 17th century, bags were most commonly worn for their practicality. The first widely worn form of purses were actually worn in pairs around the hip and under the voluminous layers of fabric within a woman’s skirt; these were called thigh pockets. But once the modern pocket was invented, purses fell out of favor for men. bit of controversy over the donning of purses: since they were worn underneath dresses and skirts, they were categorized as underwear. But eventually, it became less scandalous to carry a purse as styles were reinvented over time. Bags were originally linked onto chains by hook, which were called chatelaines. Chatelaines could carry a variety of trinkets and everyday necessities, like keys, scissors and sewing materials. Since they were typically made of precious metals, chatelaines were considered jewelry as well as a symbol of wealth and status.

 

 

 

In the late 17th and early 18th centuries, the reticule handbag was in. The reticule, also known as the indispensable, was a drawstring bag that was quite small in size, only able to carry a bit of makeup, playing cards and money. Embroidery was also a fan favorite within the realm of handbags, depicting portraits and intricate floral designs.

 

 

By the mid-1800s, bags increased in size and the designer handbag was born. An entrepreneur by the name of Samuel Parkinson decided that his wife’s purse was far too small and a bit flimsy, so he decided to order her a custom set of handmade leather luggage in various sizes and shapes to accommodate her travels as well as her everyday living. The set was designed by H.J. Cave & Sons, and being that the pieces were of such high quality and craftsmanship, the bags made it clear that Mrs. Parkinson was high society. Interestingly enough, it was said that designer H. J. Cave inspired prominent fashion legends we know and love today, like Louis Vuitton and Guccio Gucci.

 

(Image from https://www.pinterest.com.au/pin/85990674110055021/)

 

It was around the end of the 19th century and the beginning of the 20th that larger bags caught on with the general public. Practicality was once again brought into play when designing purses, which were not only larger in size but higher in quality. Handles were sturdier, zippers and other closures better constructed, and new materials and shapes were introduced. The clutch, for example, popped up in the 1930s in the form of the minaudière, which was a small box crafted from rich metals like silver and gold.

 

 

 

During this time, bags simultaneously became more extravagant, ornamental and defined by the designer on the label. In 1935, we saw the birth of the Hermès Kelly bag, which actress Grace Kelly used to disguise her growing baby bump from the paparazzi.

 

(Image from https://www.yahoo.com/lifestyle/the-birkin-bag-a-better-investment-than-gold-11551676 9.html)

As the cosmetics industry grew after World War II, women needed larger bags to hold all of their blushers and mascaras, which is why the mid-sized envelope bag was a popular clutch carried by women in America. Roomy shoulder bags took over during the 50s while flashy metallic purses were adored by women in the disco days. The 80s were all about excess, as expensive and over the top designer bags were all the rage. Chanel, Gucci, Coach and Louis Vuitton were heavy hitters in the handbag game, but it was during the 1980s that the iconic Birkin bag by Hermes stole the hearts of fashion lovers the world over. The 90s was a big year for Dior, as the Dior Saddlebag rose to fame, along with the Lady Dior bag, made famous by the charming and widely loved Princess Diana.

 

 

The 2000s saw classic designer bags being reborn and revamped. The famous quilted Chanel 2.55, originally created by the one and only CoCo Chanel, was given a modest facelift by Karl Lagerfeld in 2005. Louis Vuitton also debuted a whimsical spin on their classic logo in collaboration with Japanese artist Takashi Murakami.

 

(Image from https://www.highsnobiety.com/2015/07/17/louis-vuitton-murakami-pieces/)

Today, the possibilities for handbags are endless. From bucket bags and massive crossbodies to totes and miniature clutches, purses can be trendy, practical or just fiercely fabulous. Looking for a banging bag, or want to rehome an old treasure? Head to talkingfashion.net to check out some stunning handbags or consign one of your own!

 

References:

Borrelli-Persson, Laird BORRELLI-PERSSON. “Vogue.com’s It Bag Hall of Fame: A History of the Most Coveted Accessories.” Vogue, 15 Jan. 2015, https://www.vogue.com/article/best-it-bags-history.

Curry, Andrew. “World’s Oldest Purse Found—Studded With a Hundred Dog Teeth?” National Geographic, 27 June 2012, https://news.nationalgeographic.com/news/2012/06/120627-worlds-oldest-pursedog-teeth-science-handbag-friederich/.

“The History of Handbags — a 5-Minute Guide.” 5 Minute History, http://fiveminutehistory.com/the-history-of-handbags-a-5-minute-guide/.

“THE HISTORY OF BAGS AND PURSES.” Tassen Museum, https://tassenmuseum.nl/en/knowledge-centre/history-of-bags-and-purses/.

“The History of Handbags — a 5-Minute Guide.” 5 Minute History, http://fiveminutehistory.com/the-history-of-handbags-a-5-minute-guide/