Celluloid, Bakelite, and Plastic: What Are They and How Are They Different?

By Paige McKirahan

 

You walk into Barney’s New York with the intention of accessorizing for a night on the town and come to find bangles of all colors. They’re beautiful, light, and handmade. You wonder how normal plastic could look so elegant and check the tag, realizing it is made of vintage bakelite. What is this gorgeous material?

 

 

Celluloid and bakelite are vintage jewelry staples often mistaken for the normal plastics that are usually casted to make jewelry. These materials are among some of the first man made plastics on the market. Celluloid predates bakelite and was created in an attempt to win a contest calling for someone to create a substitute for ivory in the 1860s. Though it did not win the contest, its creator, John Hyatt, chose to begin a manufacturing company that used the plastic to create billiard balls. The problem, though, was that the material was flammable; it would create small explosions on billiard tables if the balls knocked together! It also constantly sparked fires in hot projection rooms on movie sets when used to create movie film. To identify this plastic, you don’t need to wait for it to accidentally catch fire; the easiest way is to rub the piece vigorously and smell it. If it is real celluloid, it should smell similar to a ping pong ball.

 

 

 

Now, when Bakelite emerged on onto the scene in 1909, it made a sort of different explosion. It became wildly more popular than celluloid because of the simple fact that it didn’t quite literally explode and was more lightweight. When it first came into circulation, it was used primarily for industrial purposes until it started becoming available in a variety of colors. This inexpensive material then became a huge favorite of jewelry makers and differs from regular plastic jewelry as it is hand carved or polished into its design. You can check to see if your bakelite isn’t an imposter by using the 409 test. You dip a cotton swab in 409, the common household cleaner, and touch a small area of the piece. Be sure to touch a part of the jewelry that will not be seen! If it is true Bakelite, it will leave a yellow stain on the cotton swab.

 

 

As a collector or simply a jewelry lover, it pays to know if you have a piece made with one of these materials as their value has only increased over the past few decades. Authentic pieces can sell for thousands of dollars and are coveted by many in the collecting community. So now that you know the what and how on celluloid and bakelite, we invite you to pull out your vintage pieces and start testing!

 

 

 

 

 

 

From Drab to Fab: The Functionality of Dress and Shoe Clips

By Paige McKirahan

 

Have you ever wondered how you can change your boring, plain dresses and shoes into something spectacular? Something with character and pizazz? Well, the answer to that question of how lies in the 1930s with Hollywood icons and simple silhouettes.

By the ‘30s, dress and shoe clips were the “it” accessories; in the midst of the Great Depression, many women were looking for ways to emulate opulence and spice up plain clothing for cheap. This era paired with the imminent second World War forced fashion to become rationed, so these clips were an easy way for women to inexpensively adorn themselves to look similar to beloved movie stars like Marlene Dietrich, Tallulah Bankhead, Lana Turner, and Fay Wray. Dress clips were commonly worn as it is shown below, on the straps of a dress, or clipped as a symmetrical pair on square or sweetheart necklines.

 

 

 Marlene Dietrich sporting a dress pin

(image credit to deviantart.com)

 

 The popularity of the dress clip prompted the revitalization of the shoe clip, which originally came into circulation in the 18^th century. The resurgence of the trend in the 1930s aimed to embellish plain pairs of flats or heels with some sparkle and flash, which differs vastly from the feathers and ruffles that were being clipped to shoes at the trend’s conception. Since the rise of hemlines began in the 1920s, these shoe clips were an easy way to accessorize an outfit from the ground up and could even be matched to dress clips to create a complete, cohesive look!

Though expensive jewelry makers were at the front of the line in creating these fun wearables, every costume jewelry maker from America to Europe had a line of clips in circulation. Eisenberg, Trifari, Coro, and Napier were rivaling Cartier and Van Cleer & Arpels in attempt to create a more affordable alternative to luxury pieces, catering to the economic climate of the era. Common materials used in these pieces were bakelite, faux gemstones, glass pearls, and other early plastics. These companies eventually stopped manufacturing this type of jewelry in the ‘50s and ‘60s, but they are still sought out by jewelry aficionados worldwide.

 

 

Coro Dress Clip Ad

(image credit to frenchgardenhouse.com)

 

Shoe and dress clips gave women the ability to sparkle literally from head to toe and that option is still available today. Charlize Theron and Sarah Jessica Parker took notes from old Hollywood starlets and sported dress clips on the red carpet at recent events. To spice up your look in a similar fashion, head over to our collection of brooches and pins so you too can start feeling that 1930s glam!

 

 

 

 (image credits to everthingzoomer.com)

The Laurenficiation of America

By Paige McKirahan

To celebrate the revival of Western wear this fall, it is important to recognize one of the fashion world’s most iconic designers that made Americana inspired pieces a staple in wardrobes across the globe. Can you guess who it is? We’ll give you a few hints: colorful polos, teddy bear motifs, and American flags. If you said Ralph Lauren, the creative mind behind his namesake brand, you guessed correctly! This year, the brand is celebrating its 50^th anniversary, marking half a century of trials, tribulations, and unmatched success.

(image credits to Vogue.com)

Ralph Lauren, born Ralph Lifshitz in 1939, is a Bronx native that studied business prior to his arrival to the fashion world. He began his long career as a designer and businessman during his secondary and post- secondary studies; he would upsell handmade ties to his peers and eventually became a neckwear salesman at Brooks Brothers. After he grew tired of selling others designs and being inspired by thicker European tie styles that contrasted the popular thin ties of the time, he attempted to persuade his employer to allow him to create and sell his own pieces. Upon Brooks Brothers refusal, he approached a multitude of other manufacturers before Beau Brummell, an upscale NYC neckwear boutique, eventually accepted his proposal in 1967. Lauren begin selling and creating pieces right from their Empire State building showroom with nothing but a single drawer to work out of.

His success in Beau Brummell prompted the expansion of his products into other small boutiques and eventually brought on a deal with Bloomingdales. Lauren decided to continue with this growth and came to the conclusion that it was time to form his own company; with the help of his brother Jerry and with support from Manhattan clothing manufacturer Norman Hilton, Polo Fashions, Inc. was born in 1968. The polo name was incorporated because of Lauren’s love for athletics and the style that came along with it, despite the fact that he himself had never participated in the sport. Four years after the brands conception, he decided to introduce what can be considered the label’s most iconic design: the short sleeved collared shirt with a polo pony on the chest. 

After the release of this cult classic, the brand grew substantially over the following decades and expanded into women’s wear, fragrances, and home goods. The name was changed in 1987 to the Polo/ Ralph Lauren Corporation and it was around that time that the rise of streetwear iconography took hold of some of the label’s most emblematic figures. When the brand released its first American Flag sweater in 1989, it prompted toy maker Stieff to gift Lauren with a teddy bear wearing a mini Polo outfit. He loved the bear so much that he began selling the it in stores and put its likeness on sweaters and shirts, a design that is still overwhelmingly popular in the streetwear community today. 

(image credits to highsnobiety.com)

 In 1993, Lauren decided to step away from ivy league style and walk a more rugged path with the creation of Double RL (RRL). Though he had country-inspired collections that preceded this new design channel, he wanted to create something completely separate that would allow to fully explore the vintage Western motif away from his parent brand. This sub-brand broke out of the constraints of the Polo aesthetic and its source of inspiration lied in the prairies with early 20^th century workwear. RRL, which is named after none other than the Lauren’s over 15,000-acre ranch in Colorado, includes a full line of shirts, denim, flannels, sweaters, jackets, and chinos that emulated the designer’s love for Americana in an entirely new light.

 

(image credits to heddels.com)

The brand’s commitment to recreating accurate representations of heritage is evident by its careful selection of fabrics, construction, and color. With the use of leather, fringe, and Navajo style patterns, he conveyed this vintage feel with ease. One of the true embodiments of Western workwear is blue denim; the denim line in this collection is coveted with each pair being cut and sewn from the meticulously created East-West denim, making the Slim Fit Selvedge Jean a fan favorite. The pant has a five pocket construction and can range from mid to low rise with a button fly and leather waist patch. A rare feature of this denim is that it offers three options for inseam- length, allowing buyers to choose their perfect fit.

Today, Ralph Lauren is still headquartered in New York with over $2 billion in annual revenue. The story of its creation is truly a rags to riches display of the American dream; he took his ideas from a small drawer in Manhattan to the drawers of clothing lovers all around the globe. Though Lauren himself is no longer the brand’s CEO, for 48 years he was the driving creative force behind his beloved fashion house that made the prep aesthetic a cornerstone in the fashion community. Let’s all be sure to pull on our boots and polos to commemorate this golden anniversary the right way and for a little more inspiration, head over to our collection to get 20% off Western styles for this weekend only!

From the Rodeo to Rodeo Drive
by Paige McKirahan

For those from the country like me, Western wear has always been the norm worn by people in the community, on trend or not. Full denim outfits, leather, cowboy boots, fringe, large belt buckles, and flannels can be seen at any county fair on full display but now, those trends are stepping off of dirt roads and onto the runway.

This Western revival began a couple of years ago with a few '90s favorites coming back into circulation; black leather belts with shining horse buckles and suede for skirts and shirts alike were taken back out of the closet along with many other '90s trends as vintage became the “it” style. This fall, fashion is taking this Western interest and running with it after its success on the Spring/ Summer runways. Raf Simons, the new creative director of Calvin Klein, chose to go West for his first show with the label and it paid off in a big way. This nostalgic Americana look grabbed the attention of the public as Simons created a collection that embodied dark American history and horror inspired by films like Carrie and Midnight Cowboy. His full denim outfits adorned iconic public figures like Solange and A$AP Rocky, putting Britney and Justin’s 2001 American Music Awards ensemble to shame.

A$AP Mob for Raf Simons Western Calvin Klein Campaign

Celine, Versace, Chloe, Tom Ford, Alberta Ferretti, Coach, and Hermes are just a few of the other big names that saddled up and incorporated prairie aesthetics into their fall lines. Vogue and Harper’s Bazaar both go as far as naming Western one of this season’s most prominent trends. Capped cowboy boots, denim and plaid button downs secured up to the neck, saddle bags, snakeskin, and fringe are back, but always remember: keep it chic and keep it you.

Most Iconic Designer Bags of All Time

Happy Handbag Flash Sale Week!

 

In celebration of our upcoming flash sale, we figured it was only appropriate to explore what handbags are considered to be the most popular in the history of the accessory. The idea of investing in luxury handbags is a new one, but many of these designs have survived for decades and are still celebrating their icon status (hello, quilted Chanel bag!). After scouring Google’s variety of articles arguing what handbag is more coveted than the next, we have decided to compile a list of what we feel are the top nine most popular bags in no particular order. The stories of some may surprise you so read on to see if you own an iconic piece in fashion history!

Louis Vuitton Speedy Bag

 

The Speedy 30cm, which is the first bag released from the fashion house, was designed in 1930 and was a favorite of Audrey Hepburn! At the request of the Tiffany’s star herself, the brand created a 25cm style that shot the Speedy to icon status. They now come in a variety of sizes ranging from duffle bag to near change purse!

Chanel 2.55

 

This bag, created in February of 1955 (inspiring the 2.55 name), was designed by Coco Chanel because she grew tired of carrying her handbags as either a clutch or with hand straps. Her solution? The incorporation of the shoulder strap! This bag comes in a variety of colors and patterns but the most recognizable style is quilted in either black or white.

 

 

Hermes Birkin

 

One of the most expensive and coveted pieces on this list, the Hermes Birkin can range from the low thousands to six figures in price depending on the year and style of the piece. Jane Birkin, an English actress, and Jean-Lous Dumas, Hermes chief executive, met by chance on a flight and as Dumas watched Birkin struggle with her carry on, he began thinking about the design of handbags. He used her as an inspiration and aid in creating a new, functional bag that would easily carry all of one’s belongings and voila! The Birkin was born!

Hermes Kelly

 

Another one of the Hermes brand’s fan favorites is the Kelly. Formerly known as the Sac à dépêches, this bag was popularized by none other than Princess Grace Kelly herself. Created in the 1930s, the Kelly was a favorite of Graces and it became an iconic symbol of status after a photo of the Princess using the bag to cover her pregnant belly flooded the media in the 50s. The bag was renamed after the film star and has been sought after since.

Celine Luggage Tote

 

A younger design compared to the aforementioned pieces, Celine released the Luggage tote in the early 2000s. It only became iconic after the fashion forward Olsen twins were seen sporting one; they then became one of the most popular bags in history, selling out before they even reached stores. If you interested in one of these bags, you better head to the website and get on a waitlist as many designs are not even sold in Celine stores!

Balenciaga City

 

The Balenciaga City bag is also a newer design, but that doesn’t mean it’s not eligible to be an icon. After its conception, the bag did not get approved past the prototype stage as it was deemed “too soft”. When the bag was requested for a runway show in 2001, it became one of Kate Moss’s favorites and sold out in seconds when it officially hit the market.

 

 

Chloe Paddington

 

In 2002, the French brand Chloe released the Paddington bag during the perfect era: the rise of ecommerce and social networking. The bag was quickly snatched up by the biggest “it” girls of the time, creating a global sensation. It was reported by Vogue that when it was introduced, the Paddington was ordered so far in advance that it sold out of the 8,000 bags in inventory before it even hit stores!

 

 

Fendi Baguette

 

The Fendi Baguette bag created in 1997 is considered by some experts to be one of the first official “it” bags of our time as it was a favorite of fashion icon Carrie Bradshaw in Sex and the City. Though it is smaller than the others on this list, it packs a big punch as it is commonly adorned with a variety of prints and textures in addition to the Fendi logo clasp.

 

 

Louis Vuitton Neverfull

 

Another LV favorite, the Neverfull was created in 2007 as a carry-all tote that comes in three sizes. On top of being able to hold all of your belongings and more, it is one of the most durable bags on the luxury market; to test this, Louis Vuitton fills them with 3.5 kgs of weight, then drops them half a meter! This sturdiness can be attributed to the craftsmanship that goes into creating the Neverfull. Did you know they can take up to 45 hours to make?

Did you see anything familiar? We would sure think so! Now that you have handbags on the mind, be sure to make your calendars for this Saturday, so you can pick up some of your own pieces at our flash sale! 

 

This Saturday Sep 1st 12-6PM EST. Use Code: Sep1 for 30% OFF selected bags