History of Valentino

By Paige McKirahan

 

There are few words that you think of when you hear Valentino, and most of them are associated with luxury. This haute couture label is one of the top fashion brands in the world and has been seen on industry magazines, runways, and red carpets around the globe. Everyone from the likes of Elizabeth Taylor to Naomi Campbell have been seen in these designs and with such a high profile presence in not only the fashion industry, but in the luxury industry as well, you would expect a history that lives up to fame. Valentino Garavani, the creator of the fashion house, made sure that in not only lived up to those expectations, but exceeded them.

 

(photo credits to wwd.com)

Garavani, an Italian native, was born in Voghera in 1932. He had an affinity for fashion starting at the beginning of his life, and eventually went on to study design in Paris at the beginning of 1950. He then was hired for his first design position with Jean Desses, and worked for them until 1967 when he obtained a position with Guy Laroche in his new atelier. After working there for two years and improving his taste and his technical skills, he returned to Italy and opened his own fashion house. At the end of 1957, he debuted his first haute couture collection and his refined lines and sophisticated aesthetic garnered great praise from publications like the Sunday Times in London.

 

Valentino with his collection for Guy Laroche in 1967

(photo credits to her.ie) 

In the following three years, he quickly became the favorite of those in the “new Hollywood”, or Cincecitta, during great economic success in Italy. One of the first big names to wear a Valentino design was Elizabeth Taylor during her time filming Cleopatra in Rome. His collection for fall/ winter in 1961 boasted garments inspired by Jacqueline Kennedy, which only increased his growing global fame. His superstar status was secured after his 1962 show in Florence; the designs were so dazzling that he became the first Italian designer to have a French Vogue cover created in their honor.

 

Valentino 1961

(photo credits to pinterest.com)

His fall/ winter collection for 1963, which featured wild animal motifs, landed him in the pages of American Vogue, launching his popularity in the American market. The 1966 Valentino collection has become famous for its pop-art inspired pieces, which were aligned with the iconic movement during that decade. The 1960s proved to be quite prosperous for the brand as the designer’s pieces and accessories, especially his handbags sporting the luxurious gold “V”, were considered to be fundamental parts of a jet setting woman’s wardrobe. 1968 saw critical moments for the label; its spring/ summer line that year contributed to the dissipation of a haute couture crisis that involved people looking at less exclusive models. Following the show, shops opened up in Paris and Milan and later that year Valentino designed Jacqueline Kennedy’s wedding dress. These events made Garavani the most acclaimed designer in the industry at that and set the tone for the rest of his time with the brand. 

 

(photo credits to pinterest.com)

The 1970s brought experimental changes; a boutique line was created alongside of the Valentino label itself, and both lines adopted an art deco aesthetic. The brand’s first namesake perfume was released in 1978, and it was followed by a line of blue jeans that made their debut at none other than Studio 54. Moving into the ‘80s, we see the rise of the famous Valentino red accompanied by classic black and whites; the silhouettes included a variety of draping, ruching, and dramatic details. The ‘90s saw a decade of celebrations for the brand’s 30 years in fashion through a series of films, books and exhibitions. Valentino himself sold the brand to Holding di Partecipazioni Industriali SpA (HdP) in 1998, but remained the creative director until his retirement in 2008; his last show was at the Musee Rodin in Paris and featured the most iconic set of supermodels from all of his decades in fashion. After Garavani’s retirement, Ferruccio Pozzoni and Alessandra Facchinetti took over his position and they were then succeeded by Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli shortly after, who still director the label today.

 

From Valentino's last show as creative director, 2008

(photo credits to loveofvalentino.blogspot.com)

Valentino has seen a wide collection of iconic accessories ranging from heels to bags. As I said before, the iconic “V” bag was a staple in womens closet and established the house as an essential brand. The Valentino Rockstud heel is quite possibly the most iconic piece to come out of the brand; these studded, strappy stilettos have been a favorite of street style aficionados and have inspired an entire line from the brand. This newfound studded fame reignited the brands popularity and has brought Valentino back to the forefront and into the closets of millions. Check out our favorite Valentino piece in our collection and gift yourself some classic red couture this holiday season!

The Master of Bias: Charles Kleibacker

 By Paige McKirahan

 

Though there have been many iconic designers in the past century that have made a substantial mark on the fashion world, Charles Kleibacker may be the most enigmatic. Born in 1921 in Alabama, this American creator earned his nickname “Master of Bias” because of his affinity for complex gown designs involving cuts diagonal to the weave. Despite his iconic status in the fashion world, Kleibacker wasn’t always so well versed in the industry; he attended the University of Notre Dame and majored in journalism, which lead him to attend New York University for his graduate studies.

 

 

Kleibacker in 1565

(photo credits to threadmagazine.com)

He eventually relocated to California and met singer Hildegarde in San Francisco after running into one other in the same hotel. His large station wagon landed him a job as her driver and he toted around her and her entourage on tour all around the globe. It was in Europe when he finally realized his love for fashion after meeting a multitude of fashion designers through Hildegarde. His interest was piqued while in the offices of Christian Dior, and this prompted him to submit a set of early designs that earned him a spot at Lanvin in 1954. He worked there for three years and promptly returned to New York to work for Nettie Rosenstein, on the most highly regarded American fashion designers of her time.

 

Kleibacker for Lanvin, 1967

(photo credits to pinterest.com)

In 1959, he moved out of the shadow of others and into his own light when he began designing his own collection out of his brownstone in the Upper West Side. The line was a huge success and by the mid ‘60s, he was creating pieces for some of the most exclusive luxury clothiers including Henri Bendel and Bergdof Goodman. His trademarks were silk and wool crepe and of course, the bias cut; this special practice created designs that had a true cut look, not one that appeared stamped out.

 

Kleibacker designs

(photo credits to garmentozine.wordpress.com)

After his great success in New York, Kleibacker came to Ohio and became a Designer- in- Residence at The Ohio State University’s Costume and Textiles Collection. His work was a part of a 2005 exhibit there in the College of Human Ecology. He then became an adjunct curator of design at the Columbus Museum of Art and organized multiple fashion related exhibits. He remained there until the time of his death in 2010, when he passed away due pneumonia at 88 years old. Our very own CEO had the pleasure of working closely with him on multiple local fashion shows and events, making him also a close companion of our brand here at TalkingFashion. As an amazing designer so close to our home office, we felt it would only be appropriate to celebrate his wonderful life; one with a nickname like “Master of Bias” is hard to forget.

Sources:

Charles Kleibacker. (2018, October 06). Retrieved from https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Charles_Kleibacker

 

The Grand History of Gloves

By Paige McKirahan

 

In the accessory world, there are many pieces that have lifespans spanning centuries back to primitive ages. Can you guess which one we will be discussing today? As we head towards colder months, one of the most widely worn pieces conceived in ancient times is seeing an influx in use. Hats or coats may be the first things that come to mind, but it is actually the history of the glove that we are looking to dive into!

As a major piece in the fashion accessory puzzle, we first heard of the the glove when it was incriminated in the History of Herodotus (440 B.C.E.) and discussed as protective wear in The Odyssey by Homer. Ancient Egyptians typically used gloves as protective garments while working, but Pharaohs sported them to symbolize their high status. Women in this time wore the piece to protect the beauty of their hands, and they were made as a sort of small “pocket” with no holes for fingers; essentially, they were similar to today’s mittens and allowed women to maintain a feminine look.

Gloves found in King Tut's Tomb

(photo credits to pinterest.com)

Moving away from this more general use, gloves began being integrated into religious rituals. Bishops began a tradition of wearing them for Holy Sacrament, and their presence in religion can be traced all the way back to the 10^th century. Popes, cardinals, and bishops wore them to keep their hands clean for holy ceremonies, prompting Kings to adopt the same practice when conducting royal business. Royalty also took cues from ancient Egyptians and later used gloves as an ornamental accessory to exude wealth and luxury. As we move towards the 13^th century, they made their way in to royal women's fashions and common fabrics included silk or linen, featuring lengths reaching the elbow. By the 16^th century, Queen Elizabeth brought bejeweled gloves to the forefront as a sought after trend, taking the normally simple accessory to previously uncharted territories. 

 

Glove from the Holy Roman Empire

(photo credits to inesgloves.com)

In the 1700s, short sleeves came into circulation, prompting gloves that reached halfway up the forearm to become popularized. This style was on trend well into the next century, when gloves were more popular than ever before. Buttoned silk, kid (soft leather), or velvet gloves paired with evening dresses were customary, and longer suede gloves could be seen during the day during tea. At this point, the accessory was still being made mostly by hand, as most manufacturers opted out of using the complicated sewing and pressing machines available at that time. At the conclusion of the 1800s, we saw innovations in the industry that caused the first sterilized medical gloves to be created in 1894; the first disposable latex gloves were later manufactured in 1964 by Ansell.

The 1900s saw the use of gloves transform entirely. At the beginning of this century, one of the first references towards criminals using gloves to hide fingerprints was made in 1905 and this mysterious affiliation has been highly present in the media ever since (think O.J. Simpson). The industry began seeing dramatic changes on account of the societal shifts in the first half of the century; the birth of old Hollywood and the popularity of starlet’s style in the ‘20s through the ‘50s made simple gloves a staple in any modern woman’s closet. Gloves were still seen as a symbol of elegance well into the 1960s, where they truly came into being a symbol of riches, hypocrisy, and official relations. After that decade, the popularity of gloves for purposes other than cold weather wear declined; the introduction and overall popularity of more simple clothes and jeans didn’t require the upscale accessory. We saw a brief popularity boost in the ‘80s, with fingerless, netted, leather, and neon gloves returning to storefronts as the grunge and hairband movements favored accessory laden outfits.

 

Marilyn Monroe and Audrey Hepburn

(photo credits to pinterest.com)

Today, gloves have continued moving away from their royal roots and have headed towards adopting a more casual position in the fashion world. In addition to their wintertime popularity, they have also become important parts of sport uniforms used in baseball, golf, football, racing, and a multitude of others. In fashion, there are three prominent lengths: wrist (matinee), elbow, and full length (opera). The most popular material is satin and stretch satin, and are commonly seen at formal events such as proms, weddings, quinceanera, cotillions, or confirmations. If you have any of these events coming up or you are just trying to prepare for the December snow, we here at TalkingFashion have you covered! Head over to our collection to get a set of gloves wonderful enough to make you feel like royalty!

 

London Fashion Week SS'19 Accessories Trend Spotlight

By Paige McKirahan

 

Welcome back to the Talkingfashion blog, fashion week lovers! Today, we have decided to take a look at the latest and greatest trends from London Fashion Week that spanned from September 14^th to the 18^th!

 

 

Many of the aesthetics and motifs from NYFW carried over across the pond, with ‘80s references and bright color schemes presented by a multitude of talented designers.

Animal inspired designs roared in Richard Quinn’s and    Christopher Kane’s emphatic collections, both of which used prints and feathers to convey animalistic desires. There were fun themes put on display in lines that boasted mile high head pieces from Pam Hogg and a reimagining of fairytales by Ryan Lo!

 

 

Feminine aesthetics saturated collections with silk scarves and flowing details, perfectly accenting prim and proper designs seen in Riccardo Tisci’s first show for Burberry. Neon accessories and clothing were key in London (looking at you, ‘80s revival!) with single, dangling earrings in bright hues and large colorful hoops making statements in Fyodor Golan’s line.

 

 

Transparent pieces also channeled the ‘80s and ‘90s with Lucite lightning bolts and clear headpieces spicing up already flamboyant clothing designs. Androgynous styles originally popularized in the ‘70s are also a huge hit for this upcoming spring as Erdem Moralioglu’s Edwardian collection paid homage to male and female cross dressers throughout time.

 

 

Novelty bags and jewelry were the center of attention as vegetable inspired clutches were spotted accompanying models down the runway during Molly Goddard’s show. If you’re not into vegetable motifs, don’t worry; Peter Pilotto hopped on the novelty bag bandwagon as well with their ornate oversized and over-beaded bags.

 

 

In addition to food inspired designs, we also saw whimsical accessories inspired by bugs, flowers, and other household items in Matty Bovan’s collaboration with Coach.  

 

 

If you’re tired of ‘80s aesthetic dominating, look to the revival of ‘60s  tie dye this upcoming year as the colorful print is back and better than ever. Feeling like getting a head start on spring shopping or just looking for an excuse to buy some amazing new accessories? Check out our collections for pieces following all of SS ‘19’s trends!

 

  

(image credits to irishexaminer.com) 

The 1990s: The Battle of Street Style and Minimalism

By Paige McKirahan

 

Taking the crown as one of my favorite decades, the 1990s signified a transition from ‘80s garish to new age minimalism. Though it is difficult to assess the history of a fashion that seems as if it is still in style, there are some trends that aren’t as prominent as they once were (thankfully). In a time were technology was advancing at a higher pace than ever, it truly seems as if this decade is the beginning of modern society. Yes, we have seen an influence from Hollywood for decades, but pop culture affected fashion in an entirely new way during this period with the rise of boy bands, pop-stars, R&B, and the supermodel era.

 

Though ‘90s clothing still found inspiration in ‘80s silhouettes, it was the first to instigate a ‘60s revival. Loose and oversized styles remained while being complimented by mini-skirts, mini dresses, and tighter styles. Space age aesthetics reigned as white tones, metallic, and references to cosmology were widely popularized. Similar to the ‘60s, this decade saw a division of styles come into circulation and the two main groups can be roughly separated into street style and elegant minimalism. The ladder included a colorless palette with silky, leathery, and velvety fabrics. Silhouettes were linear and simple boasting a relatively neutral color palette. Looking “rich” became cool again and the popularity of name brand designers was restored. They followed the shape of the ideal body which was, at the time, slim and toned. Need help visualizing this aesthetic? Reflect back to ‘90s Calvin Klein or Armani.

 

Kate Moss in ‘90s Calvin Klein

(photo credit to pinterest.com)

 

Street style was absolutely the opposite. Garnering influence from sports and hip hop, this was a trend that had attitude and a sense of boldness never seen before. MTV could be seen on every television and artist’s laid back styles gave copious amounts of inspiration for streetwear lovers. It was oversized, sporty, and relaxed, boasting large t-shirts with bold prints as the center of attention. Women also loved crop tops and loose fitting, high waisted jeans. Bomber jackets and boots, especially Timberlands, could be seen on rappers and young women alike. This style loved denim, and also used hints of leather and fleece to make oversized sweaters more comfortable than ever. The ‘90s were the first decade where sneakers came into their own, shooting themselves to high fashion status; Vans, Converse, Nikes (especially ones endorsed by athletes), Reeboks, Jordans, and New Balances could be seen on even those most well versed in fashion.

 

Tyra Banks ‘90s street style

(image credits to pinterest.com)

 

Preppy and grunge aesthetics reigned along with street style as movie stars and musicians were the driving force behind stylistic choices. Loved by affluent teenagers, preppy style was inspired by Clueless and Ivy League trends. Blazers, polos, all things Ralph Lauren, and plaid was worn everywhere; mini-skirts, crop tops, and everything in between could be seen covered in bright colors or with preppy motifs. Leisure style for this trend included denim overalls, which are loved by all style communities in this decade.

Grunge, on the other hand, finds in inspiration for its vision in bands like Nirvana and actress Drew Barrymore. Those that were interested in this style have similar taste to punk lovers of the ‘70s, but in a more subdued manner. These wardrobes included an assortment of jackets, sweaters, skirts, and footwear with a worn in look that made it hard for couture designers to have successful collections in this aesthetic.

 

Kurt Cobain in grunge style

(image credit to retrowaste.com)

 

Jewelry trends in the 90s moved away from the flashiness of the ‘80s and had a more minimal aesthetic. Swatch watches, slap bracelets, anklets, toe rings, and puka shell necklaces all were beloved accessories in this decade. Chokers were a youthful favorite that have been revived in the late 2010s, and scrunchies have made a comeback as bracelets at the beginning of this year! Tiny sunglasses in an endless supply of bright colors also moved away from the huge specs loved by the ‘80s and ‘70s.

 

 

Lucite was a popular material and was commonly used to make chunky rings in bright colors, among other jewelry styles. Celestial motifs, smiley faces, peace signs, and ying-yang icons adorned pieces and gave use a sense of ‘60s nostalgia. Name plate necklaces a la Carrie Bradshaw are just as trendy now as they were then along with hoop earrings of all sizes. This decade also loved the use of crystals and gems in their jewelry, especially if they were color changing depending on your mood.

 

 

A mere 20 years ago when all of these trends burst onto the scene, no one could have anticipated their overwhelming popularity in the 2010’s. If you’re loving this ‘90s revival as much as I am, head on over to our collections so you can own some hoops and chokers of your own!