Folk Art in Fashion Culture: Folk Couture

By Paige McKirahan

When evaluating the vast number of art movements that have influenced fashion and design for centuries, it seems like the list of inspirational aesthetics is never-ending. From Art Nouveau to Art Deco, we have seen the line between art and fashion become blurred; the Folk Art movement is no exception and has undoubtedly enjoyed its own transition into the fashion industry. So much, in fact, that the American Folk Art museum created an entire exhibit dedicated to this assimilation. The “Folk Couture: Fashion and Folk Art” show, which was first introduced in early in 2014, called upon 13 couturiers to create one of a kind designs that correlate with specific pieces in their art collection. The connection between the two may not always be overtly evident, forcing the viewer to truly consider the pieces and how they have similar characteristics. Yes, some specific motifs from the art that inspired the clothing piece are used, but there are no direct translations of the artworks incorporated into the pieces.

Jean Yu’s chiffon dress and its inspiration, Porcupine, created by David Alvarez in 1981

(photo credits to artnews.com)

Fashion may be the hook to reel in some visitors, but the pieces in no way overshadow the art; instead, they complement the work rather than distract from it. The designers chosen by guest curator Alexis Carreño to design and create these fashion pieces are overwhelming eclectic. Even if they do not normally design pieces with folk art in mind, they all had a great eye as to what aesthetics would transition well into fashion and wowed spectators with their work.

Art often envelops fashion and vice versa; we see this cannibalistic practice illustrated with folk quilts being made of clothing scraps and folk painters like Ammi Phillips looking to fashion in print for posing inspiration. In a city where fashion reigns and museums are always looking for ways to draw in patrons, the American Folk Art Museum proved that other New York museums can incorporate fashion into their galleries successfully (and without the help of Anna Wintour). Feeling inspired by folk aesthetics but not looking to create your own gallery-inspired piece? Check out our collections to find some accessories that are already made and ready for you to purchase!

Horn and Tusk Jewelry

By Paige McKirahan 

Though there may be some controversy surrounding the use of animal materials in the fashion industry, this practice has been in place since ancient times. Decades before the presence of synthetic goods, these natural substances were the only available products that could be used in the creation of clothing and jewelry goods. What most people don’t know, though, is that these animal products typically don’t cause the death of an animal; the bone and tusks are usually taken from the animal after its death from other causes. The crafting of jewelry from horn and tusks is a longstanding tradition for native peoples, but why is this practice considered to be a sustainable one?

Firstly, these types of jewelry are organic; as the ancient crafting traditions have overall remained unchanged, they typically produce beautiful and unique pieces. Since they are naturally harvested, they will not have any chemical treatments and will be responsibly created. Horns are formed by modified skin tissue, giving the material a softer and more flexible composition. New layers of tissue are added to the base of the horn periodically, and its fibrous structure allows it to be broken down into thin, transparent sheets. Tusks, on the other hand, refer to the teeth of animals that protrude from the mouths of certain species of mammals. One of the most common types of tusks used in creating jewelry is that of ivory, which applies to elephant tusks. With a high market value, ivory is scarce and has highly desired properties regarding hardness and color. Ivory has a grainy composition, offering different surface effects and making it suitable for carving. Despite the fact that harvesting ivory now has negative connotations, we encourage the use of older ivories that were harvested safely rather than those that did harm.

To clean this type of jewelry, wash with mild soap and water on an as needed basis. Since horns and tusks are prone to splintering and are quite porous, do not leave them to soak in water or expose them to extreme temperatures. To maintain its smooth appearance, you should lightly polish your pieces as needed with jojoba or coconut oil. Looking to add some natural elements to your look? Find some of these sustainable products here at talkingfashion.

Wooden Jewelry

By Paige McKirahan 

As one of the most versatile materials in nature, wood can do everything from create beautiful jewelry to make paper. With the ability to be delicately carved and elegantly painted, it has been trending in the accessory industry for decades. Considering society’s movement towards a more sustainable future, this lightweight, natural material is highly sought after; its economical and eco-friendly designs have established itself as a frontrunner in sustainable product creation. Why, though, should we lean towards wooden creations rather than plastic and other synthetic products?

Of course, like many of wood’s natural counterparts, this material has been used for jewelry for centuries. In more modern times, the use of wood in fashion saw a burst in popularity in the 1930s and this went on until the 1950s. Mixed with plastic, glass and other materials, wood was used to create brooches, hat pins, and pendants. Some pieces were carved and painted and could be made by creatives at home or by jewelry companies. Many depression era manufacturers created wooden pieces that were comical and illustrated the artist’s great creativity. When plastics and other synthetics became popular in the late ‘50s and into the ‘60s, wooden pieces were forgotten as people were enthralled with the new, high tech products created by plastic molds. Despite this drop in circulation, wooden pieces are now attracting green fashion aficionados on account of their natural, sustainable style.

When creating wooden jewelry, the technique is based upon the grain of the wood; you work in the direction of the grain or across it, but never against it as it will crack the piece. To cut wood down to ones desired size, a gouge blade is uses to chip away the wood safely. Wood can enhance the beauty of a variety of other jewelry materials, included gemstones, bone, ivory, beads, and glass. Combining it with other organic materials can create unique designs that are typically carved by hand. Looking for a unique, environmentally conscious piece? Check out our selection of wooden accessories to get that natural feel without stepping a foot into the forest!

Neide Ambrosio

In a time like ours when so many people are focused on sustainable lifestyles and products, it would only be natural for this practice to cross over into the fashion world. Neide Ambrosio is a designer working towards this assimilation; in partnership with National Geographic, this São Paulo native creates a wide variety of accessories from soda can tabs. After moving to Rio de Janeiro with her husband in pursuit of his music career, this retired teacher was completely removed from her home at the age of 65. She began collecting trash and cleaning locally;  this environmental work lead to her to consider a new hobby; she knew how to crochet and thought, how can I use these pieces to create something amazing? She began to use beer can tabs on account of the fact that Brazilians consume them in excess and litter their empty cans on beaches, and got to work!

To create her pieces, she collects tabs from the cans that she finds and washes them thoroughly, removing all residues and impurities. After they are cleaned, she either uses their natural color or spray paints them for an added flair! Lastly, she crochets the pieces, bringing all of the tabs together to create a unique, cohesive accessory. Her bags are mostly lined with zipper pockets, and are great conversation pieces for any green fashion fanatic!

As her skills grew, so did her creativity; she claims that she had so many ideas that she was overwhelmed with wanted to create them all at once! As she designed more products and was encouraged to display them at local craft shows, her popularity began to grow. Novica, which is a company run by National Geographic set to promote the work of creatives, then came into contact with her and wanted to sell her products. She decided that she should partner with them and has been thriving in all aspects of life since. Her business began to bloom and her enthusiasm surrounding the partnership even encouraged her husband to help her in creating ideas for her pieces.

With her name now publicly known and her products sought after, she got to a place where should could offer employment to young girls from untrustworthy companies; she taught them her skills and feels privileged to be able to help others in need. Her designs have been seen all over the world from local fairs to the arms of Hollywood stars to the pages of Vogue! Her work for the environment offers great fulfillment while also being a creative outlet, allowing everyone involved to reap the benefits of her amazing creations! Head on over to our collection to get one of your own Neide Ambrosio designs to help both the Earth and your accessory closet!