Fashion and Travels: English Hat Heaven

By Paige McKirahan 

 

All over the world, hats have seen their popularity and overall style fluctuate with market and consumer interest. One country that seems to be still be at the helm of the headwear frenzy after years of iconic hat moments is the United Kingdom. From the bowler to the fascinator, the British infatuation with all things hats has traditional roots that date back centuries. As a nation of self-proclaimed hat wearers, the accessory has been pivotal in defining class, gender, and occupation throughout for centuries. Long have they been associated with symbolic meaning, hats have seen a resurgence of popularity after the most recent Royal weddings have placed a spotlight back on millinery in a big way. 

The flat cap, which is one of England’s most iconic styles, can be traced all the way back to medieval times and became a subject of Tudor laws. An act of Parliament was even instituted stating that all males over the age of six had to wear a wool cap on Sundays and holidays; this became a requirement in 1571 and there was even a fine in place if they did not comply! The flat cap then became an icon of working class culture in the following centuries and prompted the birth of the bowler. Conceived in the Victorian Age, this style was a staple in the closet of the businessman after its practical construction quickly caught the eye of the public. There are many iconic wearers of this style like Liza Minelli and John Steed, but no one immortalized the bowler quite like Charlie Chaplin did when he made it a part of his famous ensemble!

 

Charlie Chaplin in a bowler (source)

 

The deerstalker is another essential British hat design that was made most popular by Sherlock Holmes. As the cornerstone of a Victorian gentleman’s hunting attire, this hat was not created for daily wear in the city and moving towards the Edwardian era, we saw millinery become widely prevalent in hat making. Designs became more elaborate and commonly featured decorative items like lace, birds, flowers, bows, and artificial fruits. Their grand design required the use of hatpins in order to secure their stance on the head, and they allowed women to sport their fabulous headwear even when they were out campaigning for women’s right to vote!

Moving into the 1940s, we saw the rise of the headscarf turban hat as women needed them to ensure their long hair would not get caught in machinery while working in factories. This turban style was a symbol of the war effort and lead to hats becoming an essential piece in the resurgence of Parisian haute couture. Though it seemed that hats would remain a classic accessory at this time, the rise of car ownership in the 1960s denounced the need for lavish headwear or utilitarian hats as they were no longer needed for weather protection or class demarcations.

 

A turban hat in action (source)

 

In the past decade, this British love for hat wearing has been revived with a new generation of Royals. Royal headgear has always been a staple in English culture, and thanks to the wedding of Prince William and Duchess Kate paired with the 300^th anniversary of the Ascot races, the hat’s classic status has been restored. Rachel Trevor-Morgan, who has been milliner to the Queen since 2006, has created hats for a multitude of royal events including The Queen’s 80^th birthday Service of Thanksgiving at St. Pauls and her Diamond Wedding Celebration. This amazing designer credits the Duchess of Cambridge to be a pioneer in hat wearing that will inspire wearers for years to come. Since her wedding, the Stockport Hat Works Museum, which is the only of its kind in the country, is peaking in popularity with their attendee’s headwear use even steadily increasing.

One hat-maker seeing great success is Piers Atkinson; his background working with Zandra Rhodes formed his eccentric style that can be seen on the pages of pivotal publications ranging from Italian Vogue to Tatler. His kitschy, eye-catching designs have been seen on the heads of Kate Moss and Dame Shirley Bassey, establishing himself as a classic contemporary designer with traditional techniques to match. Fred Butler is also seeing similar popularity with her hand-crafted pieces; as the granddaughter of a milliner, she has hat making in her genes and her skilled techniques are loved by the likes of Bjork and Lady Gaga. Hats off to Britain for having such a rich hat history, and we can’t wait to see how their style evolves over the next century!

 

Piers Atkinson Design (source)

Sources:

Magazine, B. (2013, June 17). History of hats. Retrieved from http://www.britain-magazine.com/features/history-of-hats/

The 1990s: The Battle of Street Style and Minimalism

By Paige McKirahan

 

Taking the crown as one of my favorite decades, the 1990s signified a transition from ‘80s garish to new age minimalism. Though it is difficult to assess the history of a fashion that seems as if it is still in style, there are some trends that aren’t as prominent as they once were (thankfully). In a time were technology was advancing at a higher pace than ever, it truly seems as if this decade is the beginning of modern society. Yes, we have seen an influence from Hollywood for decades, but pop culture affected fashion in an entirely new way during this period with the rise of boy bands, pop-stars, R&B, and the supermodel era.

 

Though ‘90s clothing still found inspiration in ‘80s silhouettes, it was the first to instigate a ‘60s revival. Loose and oversized styles remained while being complimented by mini-skirts, mini dresses, and tighter styles. Space age aesthetics reigned as white tones, metallic, and references to cosmology were widely popularized. Similar to the ‘60s, this decade saw a division of styles come into circulation and the two main groups can be roughly separated into street style and elegant minimalism. The ladder included a colorless palette with silky, leathery, and velvety fabrics. Silhouettes were linear and simple boasting a relatively neutral color palette. Looking “rich” became cool again and the popularity of name brand designers was restored. They followed the shape of the ideal body which was, at the time, slim and toned. Need help visualizing this aesthetic? Reflect back to ‘90s Calvin Klein or Armani.

 

Kate Moss in ‘90s Calvin Klein

(photo credit to pinterest.com)

 

Street style was absolutely the opposite. Garnering influence from sports and hip hop, this was a trend that had attitude and a sense of boldness never seen before. MTV could be seen on every television and artist’s laid back styles gave copious amounts of inspiration for streetwear lovers. It was oversized, sporty, and relaxed, boasting large t-shirts with bold prints as the center of attention. Women also loved crop tops and loose fitting, high waisted jeans. Bomber jackets and boots, especially Timberlands, could be seen on rappers and young women alike. This style loved denim, and also used hints of leather and fleece to make oversized sweaters more comfortable than ever. The ‘90s were the first decade where sneakers came into their own, shooting themselves to high fashion status; Vans, Converse, Nikes (especially ones endorsed by athletes), Reeboks, Jordans, and New Balances could be seen on even those most well versed in fashion.

 

Tyra Banks ‘90s street style

(image credits to pinterest.com)

 

Preppy and grunge aesthetics reigned along with street style as movie stars and musicians were the driving force behind stylistic choices. Loved by affluent teenagers, preppy style was inspired by Clueless and Ivy League trends. Blazers, polos, all things Ralph Lauren, and plaid was worn everywhere; mini-skirts, crop tops, and everything in between could be seen covered in bright colors or with preppy motifs. Leisure style for this trend included denim overalls, which are loved by all style communities in this decade.

Grunge, on the other hand, finds in inspiration for its vision in bands like Nirvana and actress Drew Barrymore. Those that were interested in this style have similar taste to punk lovers of the ‘70s, but in a more subdued manner. These wardrobes included an assortment of jackets, sweaters, skirts, and footwear with a worn in look that made it hard for couture designers to have successful collections in this aesthetic.

 

Kurt Cobain in grunge style

(image credit to retrowaste.com)

 

Jewelry trends in the 90s moved away from the flashiness of the ‘80s and had a more minimal aesthetic. Swatch watches, slap bracelets, anklets, toe rings, and puka shell necklaces all were beloved accessories in this decade. Chokers were a youthful favorite that have been revived in the late 2010s, and scrunchies have made a comeback as bracelets at the beginning of this year! Tiny sunglasses in an endless supply of bright colors also moved away from the huge specs loved by the ‘80s and ‘70s.

 

 

Lucite was a popular material and was commonly used to make chunky rings in bright colors, among other jewelry styles. Celestial motifs, smiley faces, peace signs, and ying-yang icons adorned pieces and gave use a sense of ‘60s nostalgia. Name plate necklaces a la Carrie Bradshaw are just as trendy now as they were then along with hoop earrings of all sizes. This decade also loved the use of crystals and gems in their jewelry, especially if they were color changing depending on your mood.

 

 

A mere 20 years ago when all of these trends burst onto the scene, no one could have anticipated their overwhelming popularity in the 2010’s. If you’re loving this ‘90s revival as much as I am, head on over to our collections so you can own some hoops and chokers of your own!