Designer Spotlight of the Week: Missoni

By Paige McKirahan 

Considering our discussion of color and patterns in the fashion world this week, it was only appropriate to spotlight one of the most iconic brands of all time that put colorful knitwear front and center. Missoni, which was established in 1953, is now a global label that has established its high profile image by experimenting with stripes, plaids, patchworks, mosaics, zigzags, and wild patterns intertwined with vibrant color combinations. This Italian fashion house was founded by Ottavio Missoni and his wife Rosita; since the brand’s conception, the Missoni family has become famous for their values and closeness. As their brand developed, Rosita became the house’s business manager while Ottavio used his exception eye for color to be the genius behind their color palettes. Since then, it has been run by three generations of Missonis and is now in the hands of the creators’ daughter, Angela, who has made the brand into what it is today. Now that we know about who created Missoni and when, let’s look more into the dynamic history of one of fashion’s most quintessential labels.

 When the brand first was created, it began producing tracksuits for the Italian Olympic team as Ottavio was formerly an athletic sprinter. The pair continued manufacturing athletic wear until they took interest in knitting machines. Soon after, they discovered the Raschel machine; after using a technique known as fiammata, or flames, the machine created a knitted fabric with an intricately weaved zigzag pattern. This 1962 discovery birthed their iconic design as they could only create stripes in simple structures prior to the Raschel.

Ottavio Missoni

(photo credits to amara.com)

Their first runway show in 1967 put their unique style on the map and by the 1970s, they were recognized worldwide for their artisanal craftsmanship. They used a variety of materials including wool, cotton, linen, rayon, and silk with over forty colors that made their fun patterns pop. Two of the brand’s biggest fan included Anna Piaggi and Diana Vreeland, and magazines all over the world were pining for Missoni’s hippy-chic designs to grace their pages. The brand began experimenting with chevrons, waves, prints, and scalloping, but their zigzag pattern still held the crown as their most popular style. In 1972, the New York Times even went as far as declaring that Missioni’s knitwear had become an “international status symbol, like Vuitton bags and Gucci shoes”.

1970s Missoni

(photo credit to pinterest.com)

As the ‘70s progressed, Missoni was applying their iconic patterns to everything from accessories to home goods. They officially launched a home label in 1983 and has been ever-expanding since. In addition to accessories and homeware, they have also produced swimwear and fragrances. They have even collaborated with huge brands like Target and Havaianas to make their iconic designs more accessible to a wider market. Buyers were so enthused that their designs could be seen in Target that it crashed the retailer’s website after the release. Missoni aesthetics can be seen out of the home as well as the brand opened a series of themes hotel with their interiors being adorned with colorful zigzags.

Missoni for Target

(photo credit to target.com)

The family run company has Angela at its head, who completely reimaged the company’s image to be sure it reflected her parent’s original values. She has held the position of design director for twenty years and over this time has altered the marketing approach to cater to more urban and youthful clientele. She has done this through a multitude of extensive campaigns, most notably with fashion photographer extraordinaire Mario Testino. Her daughter and brothers are also active in the company; her daughter Margherita serves as her assistant while her brothers, Vittorio and Luca, work in more technical fields of sales and research. The family is careful about partnerships and licensing agreements, but they do have over 20 that extend into women’s wear, men’s wear, children’s fashions, accessories, and home furnishings. They even have made partnerships with automobile manufacturers to create fabrics for car interiors.

Missoni Fiat Interior 

(photo credits to magazineauto.com)

However you like to interact with the Missoni brand, it is evident that throughout its lifespan, the brand has stayed true to their original values. At the forefront of fashion since its conception, the designs themselves have become iconic and occupy every design medium. If you are looking to sport some Missoni flair of your own, head over to our collection and snag some of our favorites!

The Steampunk Movement: Modern, Industrial, and Accessory Filled

By Paige McKirahan

When thinking of ways to accessorize a steampunk look, you first want consider what the term means in order to understand this wild aesthetic as a whole. In short, it is a movement inspired by Victorian England, American’s wild West, and the Industrial Revolution that reimagines modern technologies as more elaborate, creative pieces of fashion, art, and mechanics. Essentially, it puts a classic twist on modern style, combining pieces from previous centuries with industrial motifs. This style of art and dress did not come into circulation until the late ’80s, and it has only grown in popularity since; its presence in literature pushed the movement in to the public eye and from that point, it gained momentum in fashion, film, and music. Now it is more than just a part of science fiction as its fun, DIY characteristics have spread into popular culture. Every good pop culture movement has standout accessories, so read on to see a few of our favorite steampunk pieces and motifs!

Walking Cane 

Back in a time when canes were less utilitarian, they were typically an indication of the owner’s wealth and overall status. For a period spanning over three centuries, they were an essential part of the wardrobe and it was likely that cane users possessed a variety of canes to be used in a multitude of social settings. Their general use has roots in the male psyche where wielding a stick equates to power. Just think back to classic literature; Black Rod carried a actual rod, Merlin carried a wand, and Moses used a staff to part the sea. When they were introduced in the 1650s, they were considered exotic as they were made with foreign materials like ivory and Malacca wood. As time progressed towards the Victorian age and the Industrial revolution, the middle class became increasingly wealthy and used canes to illustrate that wealth in grandeur. This popular use continued until about the 1940s when everyone almost simultaneously seemed to lay their canes down in pursuit of more simplified accessories. They were mostly used as a walking aid until the steampunk movement picked them up again, giving their gear-oriented ensembles an added level of class! 

Cufflinks

Though it seems like cufflinks may account for just a small part of an outfit, their aesthetic value and ability to redefine your entire look is what makes them one of the most important accessories of all. The small but mighty accent piece began appearing in the early 1500s when men began using strings to tie their ruffled wristbands together. This continued until the Industrial Revolution, when chains and strings were replaced with rods and clips to closer resemble the modern cufflink of today. Despite the fact that shirt makers have now began to put buttons on sleeves to decrease the need for cufflinks, they are still seen as a luxury item and give one the opportunity to make their clothing truly their own. They give steampunk lovers a great way to incorporate industrial motifs into their elaborate outfits, tying together their retro-modern looks.

Pocket Watches

Abiding by the steampunk ideals of functionality, creativity, and retro aesthetics, pocket watches capture the essence of the movement with their gear-oriented appearances and chain accents. Originating in around the 16^th century, the widespread use of the pocket watch began with the rise of railroading; keeping precise time was crucial for railroad guards and this importance was so prominent that Levi Strauss designed his jeans with a tiny front pocket made exclusively for holding the accessory! Many steampunk aficionados prefer the open face style of watch, which allows the wearer to display the inner workings of the piece. The best watches to invest in are said to be made by Rolex, Movado, Omega, IWC, ad Patek Philipe and are brands coveted by steampunk fashionistas.

Hand Fan 

Though the hand fan was widely popular in Victorian Eras as a foreign symbol of wealth and class, their origin lies centuries prior in ancient Egypt, Greece, and Rome. The piece, which was originally thought be a sacred instrument, was used in religious ceremonies and by royalty. They were also used in China in association with ancient mythical and historical characters. At their conception, they were fixed and remained as so until Chinese culture birthed the folding fan and spread it westward towards Europe. The 17^th century then saw an increased use of folding fan, eventually causing fixed fans to become obsolete. They generally featured prints of all kinds, either painted or transferred on, and shifted from biblical tradition to contemporary pastimes. The Impressionist, Art Nouveau, and Art Deco movements highly impacted the design and construction of fans from the 19^th to the 20^th century and today, the steampunk movement has taken hold of the accessory to complement their Victorian aesthetic.

Gloves

Similar to the hand fan, gloves found their origins in ancient culture; throughout history, they have been used for both utilitarian and decorative purposes beginning in Greece, China, and Egypt. They did not come into widespread circulation until the 11^th century when they finally reached Britain after their conception 100 years prior. Originally, they were confined to soldiers in warfare and their use as a fashion accessory did not commence until the 17^th century when style and status-oriented interests surrounding gloves began. Both genders were involved in this practice until the 18^th century, when their importance in men’s wardrobes dwindled. With the 19^th century, though, their popularity burst for both men and women when social codes developed that called for gloves in public settings. If you were seen out gloveless or were wearing soiled pieces, you would be the target for ridicule and face accusations of poor etiquette. The 20^th century saw another shift in use of gloves as the World Wars’ rationing of materials and standardization of design proved highly fashionable gloves to be unnecessary. We saw a brief revival in the 1950s, but it quickly fizzled out by the end of the preceding decade. Steampunk fans love to use gloves in their ensembles, giving their looks a vintage flair with fingerless, lace pieces holding precedence.

Face Masks 

Steampunk face masks are very reminiscent of thoses seen at a masked ball, but more industrial in appearance. Many of them feature clock and gear motifs and are typically gold, silver, or black in color. Their style may vary, and their steampunk-ehtusiats wearers use them to tie together their entire outfit and overall personality. The gas mask is a popular style, emulating Victorian London where fumes and smoke were a part of daily life. The masquerade mask starkly contrasts the gas mask aesthetic as it is more fancy and associated with dancing at a grand ball. Eye patches are a viable option and gives wearers the opportunity to play with their story; maybe they are hiding a mechanical eye or some other industrial creation beneath the covering. The plague doctor mask may be the most startling in appearance, with inspiration coming from iconic plague masks used in the 17^th and 18^th centuries. The accessories were worn by doctors and scientists and are commonly known as bird masks because of their long, beaklike nose piece.

Pocket Knives 

The pocket knife has been in use for centuries from the Roman empire to the Viking era. In the 1600s, they began to become more affordable, widely distributed, and mass produced. Many different styles of knives began being designed for a multitude of purposes ranging from hunting to camping. The simple, folding pocket knife is the most popular in steampunk fashion and they are typically bronze or gold in color with gears featured throughout the piece.

Though these pieces are just the tip of the iceberg when it comes to steampunk accessories, we feel like these are major fashion components than can be seen in any steampunk lovers closet. Octopus, spider, skeleton, camo, playing card motifs are also commonly featured in this movement’s fashions with bronze and leather colorings. If you’re trying to prepare a steampunk look for this upcoming Halloween or an impending convention, we’ve got you covered! Click on any of the photos in this post or search our collection for steampunk inspired pieces that are sure to make you feel industrial chic!

The 1960s: From Homemaker to Hippie Chic

By Paige McKirahan

The 1960s was a truly transitional decade filled with experimentation and defiance. In the earlier years, it was very reminiscent of the conservative styles popularized in the ‘50s, but the late ‘60s were the complete and utter opposite. This contrast makes you wonder if the extreme traditional values of the previous decade created this opposition where women showed more skin and were more flamboyant than ever. The world’s fashion leaders were shifted as the overwhelming British Invasion had to do with more than just The Beatles and Twiggy. The London look trumped Parisian couture and modern, youthful styles took hold of the public as new fashion icon’s bold aesthetics shook the industry to its core. 

In the beginning of the decade, Jackie Kennedy was the “it” girl of fashion; her style as simple, clean, well-tailored, and perfectly cohesive. She wore collarless dresses with one large top button, accessorizing with pillbox hats, sensible heels, and Chanel bags that were widely popularized in the ‘50s. Her global influence came to a screeching halt after the assassination of her husband, President John F. Kennedy, and she was removed from the public eye.

Women now had to discover a new fashion inspiration and found it in pop culture icons Brigitte Bardot and Mary Quant. Quant's style moved away from stiff, “adult” fashions and leaned towards youthful, short silhouettes with bold prints and accessories. Bardot, on the other hand, was very different than both Kennedy and Quant; her “tacky” and bold style was unlike any others that we had seen before and she was so influential that her pink gingham wedding dress with lace trim started a movement all on its own. We can also thank Brigette for popularizing the off the shoulder look, affectionately known as the Bardot neckline, that has come back into circulation in the past few years.

Brigette Bardot sporting her namesake neckline

(image credit pinterest.com)

As the decade zoomed forward, experimentation was brought to the forefront with mod style. Designers began revolting against traditional, waist cinching styles from the ‘50s and used the youth rebellion spreading from England to garner massive profits. The mod look boasted miniskirts, colored tights, low heels, mannish jackets, and ties. Shift dresses became trendy and their hem lengths were directly related to how women felt about their own sexual liberation, giving them a power over their own sexuality that was previously unheard of.

One of fashion’s most iconic faces, a icon known to the public as Twiggy, commonly modeled this style and had women stepping into freeing clothing that allowed personal expression. Colors and prints were inspired greatly by the pop and modern art movements, with bright hues, stripes, and Campbell’s soup cans adorning everything from dresses to bags.

Supermodel Twiggy in a mod shift dress

 (photo credits to pintrest.com)

This rebellion also is responsible for the birth of the hippie movement, which was a political anti-fashion statement that was so popular it became a mainstream trend. The late ‘60s saw an earthier hippie style than the 1970s and the more colors, the better. Extremism was a huge part of this form and it affected everything from accessory choice to silhouettes. Hats were oversized, vests were knee length, and coats drug the floor. Folk motifs were front and center, influencing clothing and jewelry alike with ethnic motifs. There were no rules with this type of fashion; you marched to the beat of your own drum with no regard for outside judgement.

The jewelry of this decade still loved the longstanding costume style, but designs became bolder and increasingly more expressive. Many jewelry producers began experimenting with lower cost materials, rejecting the idea that jewelry represented status. Textured gold was still popular, yes, but plastics like vinyl, resin, and Perspex could be produced in mass quantities for a very low cost. The Pop Art movement that was influencing fashion made its way into accessories, with large geometric shapes complimenting the simple shift dress silhouette.

Floral motifs that have been used in jewelry for decades’ prior were revived in a big way as the birth of the Hippie movement and Flower Power trend paired with the new plastics of the time allowed the designs to become bold and colorful. Long, dangling earrings also came into fashion as shorter hairstyles were in and clip earrings were out. Large bangles and statement rings were ‘60s staples and were easy options to update outfits that need a little bit more va-va-voom. Lea Stein was one of the most popular designers of the time; after she started her company in 1957, she began manufacturing buttons for apparel. She then made her way into jewelry and used layers of colored cellulose acetate to create her trademark character pieces.

Though this decade seems to have dipped its toes in multitude of differing trends, the ‘60s made its mark in the fashion industry and changed style forever. People no longer felt the need to conform to society’s idea of stylish and instead started dressing in a way that expressed their personalities and taste. I think everyone should be a little rebellious in fashion because without rebellion, how do will we stand out? To start a fashion rebellion of your own, head over to our '60s collection to find pieces that express who YOU are!

Why Gloves? 

Welcome back to daily fashion, gloves. Nearly everybody owns at least one pair of gloves. We are not talking about basic winter gloves. We are talking about elegant and fashionable gloves that cover your forearm (and sometimes past that!). 

Gloves are typically used as a practical accessory these days to stay warm, rather than a fashionable accessory. Thin fabrics were used for gloves to be worn in the summer when they were trendy. It's time for gloves to come back to fashion! 

Gloves Return to Fashion 

Gloves are making a come back in the fashion world! Fall/Winter 2018 will show how popular gloves are becoming. Fashionable gloves can create an elegance to an outfit. They can create an astonishing look simply by adding them to a regular outfit. They're easy to add, as well. 

Historic Aspect 

The Victorian Era is where fashionable gloves began. Gloves continued to progress in fashion throughout the 1900s - 1960s. They were the inspiration to the return of the trend of gloves. 

Do you ever go out without your wallet or your hand bag? Most do not. That is how individuals treated their gloves - they never left the house without them on. Gloves were the symbolization to a woman's class. They also could hide her class. Prosperous, wealthy women had delicate, pale, and smooth hands. Whereas lower class women had rough, tan, and scarred hands. The fashion of gloves allowed them to elevate themselves into an improved life. 

Modesty was crucial for women, reflected in the way they dress. Gloves covered more of their body. This was exceptionally important in a woman's teenage years through her twenties. Bare skin was unladylike back then. 

Now that woman are not shunned for exposing their skin as much as they were back then, elbow-length gloves become unnecessary. Much of those gloves still exist to this day. Often in fashion, we look for new trends and tend to repeat trends after decades without the trend. Fashion gloves will soon be applied to every day wear. 

John and Thomas Fownes established Fownes Brothers and Co., Inc. in Worcester, England. It all began in 1777. Gloves were their main focus. The company was the very first to industrialize the performance of preparing leather, cutting, trimming, and sewing.

The industry hit it's peak between 1790 - 1820. Half of British gloves were made in Worcester. Success increased as they entered the American market in 1887. New York City holds their office. It is sill maintained even to this day! It became the global headquarters for sales, merchandising, and design.