Fashion and Travels: English Hat Heaven

By Paige McKirahan 

All over the world, hats have seen their popularity and overall style fluctuate with market and consumer interest. One country that seems to be still be at the helm of the headwear frenzy after years of iconic hat moments is the United Kingdom. From the bowler to the fascinator, the British infatuation with all things hats has traditional roots that date back centuries. As a nation of self-proclaimed hat wearers, the accessory has been pivotal in defining class, gender, and occupation throughout for centuries. Long have they been associated with symbolic meaning, hats have seen a resurgence of popularity after the most recent Royal weddings have placed a spotlight back on millinery in a big way. 

The flat cap, which is one of England’s most iconic styles, can be traced all the way back to medieval times and became a subject of Tudor laws. An act of Parliament was even instituted stating that all males over the age of six had to wear a wool cap on Sundays and holidays; this became a requirement in 1571 and there was even a fine in place if they did not comply! The flat cap then became an icon of working class culture in the following centuries and prompted the birth of the bowler. Conceived in the Victorian Age, this style was a staple in the closet of the businessman after its practical construction quickly caught the eye of the public. There are many iconic wearers of this style like Liza Minelli and John Steed, but no one immortalized the bowler quite like Charlie Chaplin did when he made it a part of his famous ensemble!

Charlie Chaplin in a bowler (source)

The deerstalker is another essential British hat design that was made most popular by Sherlock Holmes. As the cornerstone of a Victorian gentleman’s hunting attire, this hat was not created for daily wear in the city and moving towards the Edwardian era, we saw millinery become widely prevalent in hat making. Designs became more elaborate and commonly featured decorative items like lace, birds, flowers, bows, and artificial fruits. Their grand design required the use of hatpins in order to secure their stance on the head, and they allowed women to sport their fabulous headwear even when they were out campaigning for women’s right to vote!

Moving into the 1940s, we saw the rise of the headscarf turban hat as women needed them to ensure their long hair would not get caught in machinery while working in factories. This turban style was a symbol of the war effort and lead to hats becoming an essential piece in the resurgence of Parisian haute couture. Though it seemed that hats would remain a classic accessory at this time, the rise of car ownership in the 1960s denounced the need for lavish headwear or utilitarian hats as they were no longer needed for weather protection or class demarcations.

A turban hat in action (source)

In the past decade, this British love for hat wearing has been revived with a new generation of Royals. Royal headgear has always been a staple in English culture, and thanks to the wedding of Prince William and Duchess Kate paired with the 300^th anniversary of the Ascot races, the hat’s classic status has been restored. Rachel Trevor-Morgan, who has been milliner to the Queen since 2006, has created hats for a multitude of royal events including The Queen’s 80^th birthday Service of Thanksgiving at St. Pauls and her Diamond Wedding Celebration. This amazing designer credits the Duchess of Cambridge to be a pioneer in hat wearing that will inspire wearers for years to come. Since her wedding, the Stockport Hat Works Museum, which is the only of its kind in the country, is peaking in popularity with their attendee’s headwear use even steadily increasing.

One hat-maker seeing great success is Piers Atkinson; his background working with Zandra Rhodes formed his eccentric style that can be seen on the pages of pivotal publications ranging from Italian Vogue to Tatler. His kitschy, eye-catching designs have been seen on the heads of Kate Moss and Dame Shirley Bassey, establishing himself as a classic contemporary designer with traditional techniques to match. Fred Butler is also seeing similar popularity with her hand-crafted pieces; as the granddaughter of a milliner, she has hat making in her genes and her skilled techniques are loved by the likes of Bjork and Lady Gaga. Hats off to Britain for having such a rich hat history, and we can’t wait to see how their style evolves over the next century!

Piers Atkinson Design (source)

Sources:

Magazine, B. (2013, June 17). History of hats. Retrieved from http://www.britain-magazine.com/features/history-of-hats/

Fur in Fashion: Faux Pas or Fabulous?

By Paige McKirahan

One material that has been on trial in fashion court for decades is one that was, for a large portion of its life, associated with high status and class. Fur accessories and clothing have been in circulation for 170,000 years and were used as a status symbol in as early as the 11^th century. European royalty sported fur coats, capes, and accessories commonly made from mink, sable, and chinchilla fur. This increase in fur wearing prompted the creation of laws that regulated which social classes were permitted to wear specific furs. Prior to this, furs were more so used out of utility; the real pelts offered warmth and comfort to people in primitive cultures, starkly contrasting their new popularized purpose.

As the desire for luxury furs increased over the next five centuries, so did the development of fur farms. In the Victorian era, we saw a rise in popularity with both genders as the use of furs in movies put a spotlight on the wild textile. Coats worn by men tended to be lined with fur with other materials covering the outside of the piece. Women’s coats boasted fur accents throughout at the collar, wrists, and hems. We also saw the popularity of dress and shoe clips begin to inflate in the same period; these accessories were either adorned with fur details or accessorized the fur pieces themselves.

Victorian Era Furs

(photo credits to grandladies.com)

Other accessories that loved fur fun were scarves, shawls, and hats. Looking back at their basic use surrounding warmth, people used fur to accessorize cold weather outfits in style. These small hints of luxury could elevate any look and were sure to illustrate the wearers high status.

The 1900s brought big change to the fur industry as imitation furs began to take over the market. Real furs were expensive and many fashionistas, especially animal rights activists, associated them with cruelty. As technology improved, so did the quality of fake furs created from silk and synthetic pile fabrics. Designers began to create more casual looks using fur, moving away from glamour and more towards department store chic. The ’50s and ‘60s saw fur be more affordable than ever, with faux fur options being front and center on account of Old Hollywood influence.

1950s Fur Ad

(photo credits to vintagedancer.com)

Now, fur is still one of the most widely debated fabrics in the industry and and increased amount of high profile brands are declaring themselves as fur free. The ‘90s pushed the faux v. real fur debate and used iconic supermodels as spearheads for the movement away from a fur-filled future. Fendi seems to be at the center of this debate as their haute couture counterparts seem to be ahead in the faux fur conversation; Gucci and Versace have vowed to ditch the real thing, while Fendi continues to unapologetically create pieces with real animal fur. Whatever style you prefer, we encourage you to research furs and the benefits of both styles before deciding on a side! Remember to wear what you love, and find fur items you love in our collection!

History of Valentino

By Paige McKirahan

There are few words that you think of when you hear Valentino, and most of them are associated with luxury. This haute couture label is one of the top fashion brands in the world and has been seen on industry magazines, runways, and red carpets around the globe. Everyone from the likes of Elizabeth Taylor to Naomi Campbell have been seen in these designs and with such a high profile presence in not only the fashion industry, but in the luxury industry as well, you would expect a history that lives up to fame. Valentino Garavani, the creator of the fashion house, made sure that in not only lived up to those expectations, but exceeded them.

(photo credits to wwd.com)

Garavani, an Italian native, was born in Voghera in 1932. He had an affinity for fashion starting at the beginning of his life, and eventually went on to study design in Paris at the beginning of 1950. He then was hired for his first design position with Jean Desses, and worked for them until 1967 when he obtained a position with Guy Laroche in his new atelier. After working there for two years and improving his taste and his technical skills, he returned to Italy and opened his own fashion house. At the end of 1957, he debuted his first haute couture collection and his refined lines and sophisticated aesthetic garnered great praise from publications like the Sunday Times in London.

Valentino with his collection for Guy Laroche in 1967

(photo credits to her.ie) 

In the following three years, he quickly became the favorite of those in the “new Hollywood”, or Cincecitta, during great economic success in Italy. One of the first big names to wear a Valentino design was Elizabeth Taylor during her time filming Cleopatra in Rome. His collection for fall/ winter in 1961 boasted garments inspired by Jacqueline Kennedy, which only increased his growing global fame. His superstar status was secured after his 1962 show in Florence; the designs were so dazzling that he became the first Italian designer to have a French Vogue cover created in their honor.

Valentino 1961

(photo credits to pinterest.com)

His fall/ winter collection for 1963, which featured wild animal motifs, landed him in the pages of American Vogue, launching his popularity in the American market. The 1966 Valentino collection has become famous for its pop-art inspired pieces, which were aligned with the iconic movement during that decade. The 1960s proved to be quite prosperous for the brand as the designer’s pieces and accessories, especially his handbags sporting the luxurious gold “V”, were considered to be fundamental parts of a jet setting woman’s wardrobe. 1968 saw critical moments for the label; its spring/ summer line that year contributed to the dissipation of a haute couture crisis that involved people looking at less exclusive models. Following the show, shops opened up in Paris and Milan and later that year Valentino designed Jacqueline Kennedy’s wedding dress. These events made Garavani the most acclaimed designer in the industry at that and set the tone for the rest of his time with the brand. 

(photo credits to pinterest.com)

The 1970s brought experimental changes; a boutique line was created alongside of the Valentino label itself, and both lines adopted an art deco aesthetic. The brand’s first namesake perfume was released in 1978, and it was followed by a line of blue jeans that made their debut at none other than Studio 54. Moving into the ‘80s, we see the rise of the famous Valentino red accompanied by classic black and whites; the silhouettes included a variety of draping, ruching, and dramatic details. The ‘90s saw a decade of celebrations for the brand’s 30 years in fashion through a series of films, books and exhibitions. Valentino himself sold the brand to Holding di Partecipazioni Industriali SpA (HdP) in 1998, but remained the creative director until his retirement in 2008; his last show was at the Musee Rodin in Paris and featured the most iconic set of supermodels from all of his decades in fashion. After Garavani’s retirement, Ferruccio Pozzoni and Alessandra Facchinetti took over his position and they were then succeeded by Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli shortly after, who still director the label today.

From Valentino's last show as creative director, 2008

(photo credits to loveofvalentino.blogspot.com)

Valentino has seen a wide collection of iconic accessories ranging from heels to bags. As I said before, the iconic “V” bag was a staple in womens closet and established the house as an essential brand. The Valentino Rockstud heel is quite possibly the most iconic piece to come out of the brand; these studded, strappy stilettos have been a favorite of street style aficionados and have inspired an entire line from the brand. This newfound studded fame reignited the brands popularity and has brought Valentino back to the forefront and into the closets of millions. Check out our favorite Valentino piece in our collection and gift yourself some classic red couture this holiday season!

Pop The Cork on New Year’s Eve Fashion!

By Paige McKirahan

As the biggest party of the year is looming towards us at a rapid rate, panic surrounding finding the perfect New Years Eve outfit is rising. With a year as fabulous as 2018 coming to a close, it is only appropriate that we look just as fabulous as we bid it goodbye and step into the last year of this decade. Though some people tend to rely on their clothing itself to provide them with their NYE glam, we here at TalkingFashion think that this year’s make or break pieces will lie in one’s accessories. Not only can you completely transform a clothing piece with jewelry and other fun additions, you can also create a complete, cohesive outfit that stuns from head to toe!

Accessories can emulate more vibes and attitudes than just clothing alone, which makes them an integral part of a party outfit for all types of fashionista! From minimalists to haute couture connoisseurs, accessorizing can elevate a look from basic to Times Square chic.

Are you a fan of the little black dress instead of the disco ball aesthetic for your impending New Years fun? Personalize that classic piece by adding everything from a head scarf to a dazzling bracelet to allow your personality to shine as bright as the Times Square Ball! You’ll be the talk of every party with your expertly curated style; if you are lost on how to create your perfect look, we are here to help! Check out our collections or enlist one of our expert stylists to assist you in making sure you’re walking into 2019 as fashionable as ever!

Headpiece Heaven: Five Fabulous Ornamental Accessories

By Paige McKirahan

When it comes to the evaluation of headwear as an accessory rather than something worn out of necessity, it can truly make or break an outfit. Adding a scarf or hat to compliment a piece is customary, but what about more lavish head ornaments that are typically sported by royalty or those strutting the red carpet? Read on to learn about hair and head ornaments that emulate opulence from the top down!

Fascinator: 

This eclectic headwear is a more decorative alternative to the hat. Its roots can be traced back the Renaissance where it was customary for Christian women in Europe to sport head coverings. The use of the term came into circulation to describe the evolutionary form of this headpiece towards the end of the 20^th century. Presently, it is typically worn at events where hats are customary and is accompanied by formal attire. They are commonly worn by woman as a covering during church services, weddings, or horse racing events. They are seen in great volume at royal events and Princess Beatrice of York wore a piece to Prince William and Catherine Middleton’s wedding that was so unusual, it became an internet sensation!

Tiara: 

A tiara is a specific type of crown that tends to be bejeweled and ornamental in style. Appropriate for formal occasions of the white tie variety, this headpiece originates in Persia as a status symbol. The use of tiaras in ancient times declined with the rise of Christianity, but they saw a revival in the 18^th century when Neoclassicism popularized the accessory for female adornment. Despite the fact that this revival was geared toward royalty, this piece has also been worn by wealthy commoners. The style is popular in the costume jewelry industry where they are worn by women for special occasions including homecomings, proms, quinceaneras, pageants, or weddings.

(image credits to harpersbazaar.com)

Hairpin:

The hairpin can come in many forms, but its basic function remains the same: to hold one’s hair in place. Whether the piece is elaborate and ornamental or utilitarian like a bobby pin, they are essential in creating different hairstyles. Coming from ancient Egypt and China, they were worn by all genders and were essential to hairstyling. They can also be used to note one's social or marital status. Now, they have a more decorative appearance and can be in the form of a barrette, bobby pin, or classic long straight pin.

(image credits to pinterest.com)

Hatpin:

This hair accessory can be considered a variation of the hairpin; it is decorative and functional, with its main purpose being to hold a hat to the head. It was invented in Britain in the early 1800s and after its conception, the demand grew so great that a machine was created so it could be mass produced. In the late 1800s, bonnets became widely more circulated than hats, forcing hairpins into the closets of millions. They continued growing in popularity until the early 1900s until women began using them for self-defense purposes. They then began being regulated and their length decreased in order to deter wearers from using them as weapons.

Crown: 

As the most traditional of headpieces on this list, the crown is a symbolic headwear typically won by royals. They represent power, victory, honor, glory, and legitimacy, and are often emblematic of the monarchy. These pieces can feature natural motifs, and they often are adorned with an assortment of expensive jewels. There are a variety of crown types and they can be used in coronations, at state occasions, or during weddings. You can even find their style being copied for novelty events (think Burger King's kid crowns!)

(image credit to us.hellomagazine.com)

Has Megan Markel and Harry's wedding got you feeling headpiece crazed? We can sate your desire for this royal glamour from the top down! Take a look at our collection to find headpieces for every occasion!