NYFW Spotlight: Anna Sui’s Star-Studded Dreamworld

By Paige McKirahan

Welcome back to our NYFW spotlight, style enthusiasts! Today, we have decided to take a look at the vibrant collection from Anna Sui as she takes us on a bohemian adventure inspired by flea market chic. Taking note from the 1955 film “Kismet”, Sui tells that she was influenced by a scene in the movie where they were moving through a brightly colored marketplace; the designer explains that she is a flea market aficionado and seeks them out in every city that she travels to. She wanted to emulate that escapist fantasy and did so beautifully with these pieces as she gave us a wanderlust aesthetic that was hard to look away from.

A screengrab from Kismet

(photo credit to Google Images)

For this marvelous collection, Sui chose to use vibrant colors and daring patterns with a variety of loose, easy silhouettes that popped against the neutral gold set. Many looks were made of silk and featured shorts, loose fitting pants, glittery dresses, satin shirts, and Polynesian jumpsuits. Finished in fish scale sequins and fringe, the collection was completed with head scarves, flatform sandals, and long, chunky necklaces. This market fashion grabbed the attention of some of big names with filmmaker Francis Ford Coppola, his daughter Sofia Coppola, and queen Naomi Campbell all seated in the front row. The crowd wasn’t the only place where faces could be so easily recognized; the Hadid sisters, Kaia Gerber, and Taylor Hill all strutted down the runway, displaying this collection with fierce elegance. Here are a few of our favorites from the show. What do you think- marketplace magnificence or flea market faux pas?

(photo credit to thewashingtonpost.com)

NYFW Spotlight: Christian Siriano’s Hawaiian Chic

By Paige McKirahan

Hello again, fashion lovers! For our next NYFW spotlight, we decided to take a look into the vibrant and tropical collection designed by Christian Siriano as he takes us on a sultry getaway for SS 2019. Though the weather may be getting colder, this designer turned up the heat Saturday at his show in New York’s Gotham Hall, choosing to break away from the Spring Studios venue that is the headquarters for this season’s shows. Sitting front row for this island escape included Tiffany Haddish, Sarah Hyland, Whoopi Goldberg, and one of fashions most beloved best friends, Cynthia Nixon. Nixon is current running for governor of New York and Siriano made his support known with a piece in the collection reading “Vote for Cynthia” in a simple print on a solid shirt.

(photo credit to aol.com)

The designer said he found inspiration for his playful collection in chic island life aesthetics; he wanted the designs to be fun, colorful, and romantic, while still being visually powerful and exciting. He was truly influenced by the perfect dream Hawaiian vacation and he emulated it wonderfully with refinement and elegance. The collection begins with an assortment of colors and animal prints in daring silhouettes, while slowly incorporating tropical florals and vibrant neon’s. Siriano paid no mind to the fashion world norms as he had models of all skin and body types walking in his pieces, giving us a chance to see how the designs work beautifully on everyone. It was hard to pick only a few favorites from such a gorgeous collection, but we managed to choose five looks we feel really allowed his island inspiration to shine through. What do you think—tropical bliss or huge miss?

(photo credits to aol.com)

Remember to keep checking in on the blog as we will continue to spotlight our favorite Fashion Week shows and designers! To watch the magic happen on the runway in real time, head over to http://nyfw.com/live to view NYFW’s personal livestream!

Fashion Rationed: World War II Style

By Paige McKirahan

Though The Great Depression was nearing its conclusion at the end of the 1930s, the fashion industry was still shaking from the effects of its economic downfall. Moving away from the tubular styles of the 1920s, this pre-war period saw the revival of a feminine, waist cinching silhouette and made way for mass, factory produced styles. Don’t worry—corsets were still out of trend and the type of form fitting style that the ‘30s loved was that of an accentuated natural waist. The innovations in industry that made ready-to-wear a staple in design also allowed none other than Elsa Schiaparelli to pioneer zippers, making them a staple in this decade’s garments as they were ultimately less expensive than buttons.

Though daywear styles were simple and refined, evening wear remained glamourous and continued garnering inspiration from Hollywood starlets. Backless gowns became the centerpieces of long gowns and chiffon, silk, crepe-de-chines, and satin were used to create elegant and flowing lines. Women’s pants also became a huge hit in the late 1930s, popularized by “sailor” style which included buttons on the front of the high waist. Beach pajamas, one piece jumpers with wide legged pants, also became a wardrobe staple for women at the time as they were commonly worn for beach or relaxation days.

1938 women’s pants 

(image credit to vintagedancer.com) 

The beginning of World War II in 1939 placed an emphasis on global conflict rather than haute couture, pushing creative expression to the backburner. To support the war effort, common clothing materials began to be rationed, taking a toll on style and calling for alternative fabrics. Rather than using nylon and wool, which were both needed by the military, a new synthetic fabric called rayon was extremely popular for clothing in these wartime years. These fabric restrictions put a renewed emphasis on legs that we previously saw during World War I; less fabric meant simple designs with shorter hemlines were in now style out of necessity. Fabric rations were also responsible for the creation of the two-piece swimsuit in 1946 as creating a bikini was more economical than one pieces. 

An unforeseen shift was brought along in the 1940s that altered the fashion world forever; Paris was knocked from their throne as the leader in haute couture and style, with New York emerging as the new influencer. Parisian couture houses garnered disapproval from the public and many grew weary of top designers as it seemed they were in cahoots with occupational forces. Coco Chanel specifically closed down her studio during this period as she was criticized for her relationship with a high ranking Nazi official, tarnishing her brand. Claire McCardell, American designer, made use of fabrics that were not in high demand by the military like cotton denim, jersey, gingham, and calico for everyday styles. “War Wise” became trendy and patriotic colors were the “it” aesthetics of the decade as American style was making its first true marks on the industry.

Claire McCardell design, 1946

(photo credit to enews.com)

As the Great Depression lead into the new war, costume jewelry was still a wardrobe staple as movie star glam style reigned. Clothing was relatively plain and lackluster, so jewelry was large, colorful and decorative to compensate. Metal was in short supply, so sterling silver became the go to material and provided a base for large, colored gemstones. Vermeil also became popular for these over-the-top pieces; the material, which is a base of silver plated with gold, gave the look of luxury while remaining inexpensive. Cheaper materials such as wood, shell, glass, bakelite, and fabric were used to created pieces with patriotic symbols, flowers, bows, and whimsical animals. Popular motifs during this time included novelty shapes and prints, nature, flowers, fruits, and vegetables. Patriotic themes were common as it was important to keep morale up during the War; many wore brooches that were in the shape of the letter “V”, which was a common symbol for victory in this decade.

Cartier "V" brooch ad, 1945

(image credit to vintagedancer.com) 

Despite the glitz of the roaring ‘20s, the late ‘30s and ‘40s were forced to forgo glamourous habits for those more modest on account of the current political and economic climates. Regardless, this time period shows that fashion and style can persevere, molding with the restrictions of the time. Limits on materials forced designers to become innovators, creating timeless silhouettes that were not previously utilized in the industry. American courtiers really began to step into the global spotlight, and New York as a city secured its place as an emerging fashion leader. To celebrate this victory, head over to our collection to get you some ‘30s and ’40s pieces of your own!

Fashion’s Favorite Week Returns

By Paige McKirahan

Hello fashionistas! As you may know (or we would hope so, anyway), New York Fashion Week has finally returned to give us an inside look at this upcoming spring and summer’s hottest trends. Beginning on September 5^th, these seven days of glamour attract buyers, press, and pop culture phenomena to the streets of New York with the goal of celebrating designers in prestige and style. 

NYFW, which began in 1943, was created by Eleanor Lambert, a press director for the New York Dress Institute. At this time, you wouldn’t see your favorite actress or singer in the front row; what was formerly known as “Press Week” was truly only open to the press, with no buyers or industry figures permitted. She created the event to pull the public’s attention away from the fact that they were unable to travel to Paris to view shows during the second World War and hopefully shift focus to American designs. The event saw huge success and lead to publications like Vogue being more open to discussions of American creations more than ever before.

Eleanor Lambert at the first NYFW

(photo credits to guestofaguest.com)

In the mid 1950s, the name of the event was changed to “The Press Week of New York” and shows were held all over the city in venues of the designer’s choice. After that method proved to be disastrous (i.e. Michael Kors model’s getting hit with falling pieces of ceiling. Ouch!), the head of the Council of Fashion Designers of America, Fern Mallis, moved all of the shows into white tents in Bryant Park. After that change in 1993, the name of NYFW was changed to “7^th on 6^th” after the event company that was founded by CFDA. 8 years later, IMG bought the event and officially renamed it New York Fashion Week. Mercedes-Benz, the current sponsor of the shows, has been supporting the Week since 2007, and the event grew so large that white tents in Bryant Park could no longer accommodate all of the insiders dying to gain access to these shows. The event was then held in Lincoln Center until 2014, then the skylights at Moynihan Station and Clarkson Square up until its arrival at the current venue.

Bryant Park during Fashion Week c. 1998

(Image credit to nytimes.com)

This year, the shows are being held in galleries at Spring Studios on Varick Street and many designers choose to utilize this space. In contrast, many also choose to have their events at more original venues outside of the IMG umbrella, like the John Elliot Co. show that could be seen at Pier 62 Skate park. Though Elliot put on a fabulous display, we were looking to spotlight a designer that is the true epitome of fabulousness: Jeremy Scott. 

Scott’s SS ’19 show was a playful look back at Jeremy in his early teens; the designer reminisced to his star studded audience about the fact that he most literally does not throw anything away and hasn’t since he was around 13 years old. He recalled that at that age, he once threw away a shirt he though he didn’t like anymore, regretting it only days later. That anguish prompted him to keep everything from that point on, creating a personal collection and style that was beautifully emulated in this NYFW display.

For this show, the designer ultimately looked inward for inspiration; as his own muse, he reflected on all the years that he was designing his own clothing and looks with no one to practice them on but himself. Polaroid’s of an adolescent Scott adorned pieces in the collection along with sequins, crystals, and 3D embroideries reading “RIOT”, “PEACE”,”SEX”, and “SHOCK”. His classic 1990s aesthetics were refined on an entirely new level than his previous work; his polishing in the leather and sport mesh pieces is sophisticated despite their youthful inspiration. Though he makes overt political statements with his weird and in-your-face style, it has a sense of refinement that allows his influence to truly shine through.

Here are some of our favorite looks from the show. What do you think—fab or drab?

 Spring 2019 Ready to Wear Jeremy Scott 

(Photo credits to vogue.com)

Take a note from Jeremy and be unapologetically yourself in the most brazen, emphatic way. Who better to be a muse for your creative expression than yourself?

Be sure to keep an eye on our blog over the next week as we will be spotlighting our other favorite Fashion Week shows and designers! To watch the magic happen on the runway in real time, head over to http://nyfw.com/live to view NYFW’s personal livestream!

Elsa Schiaparelli was an Italian fashion designer who, along with her rival Coco Chanel, is regarded as one of the most prominent figures in fashion between the two World Wars.

Schiaparelli was born in 1890 and raised in Rome, Italy. The cultural background and erudition of her family members served to ignite the imaginative faculties of Schiaparelli’s impressionable childhood years. She became enraptured with the lore of ancient cultures and religious rites. The content of her writing alarmed the conservative sensibilities of her parents, so they sought to tame her fantasy life by sending her to a convent boarding school in Switzerland. Once within the school’s confines, Schiaparelli rebelled against its strict authority by going on a hunger strike, leaving her parents no alternative but to bring her home again.

Schiaparelli was dissatisfied by a lifestyle that was refined, but ultimately cloistered and unfulfilling. Her craving for an exploration of the wider world led her to try to remedy this and when a friend offered her a post caring for orphaned children in an English country house, she saw her opportunity to leave. The placement, however, proved uncongenial to Schiaparelli. She subsequently planned a return to the stop-over city of Paris rather than admit defeat by returning to Rome and her family.

She married a charlatan, whom she got engaged after one day of dating. They moved to NY in 1916 and their lives were followed by FBI and others suspicious of his career credits along and spy actions during war times. Soon after Schiaparelli and then husband Dr. Kerlor had their daughter in 1920, he left them behind. So, in 1922, she moved back to France with her daughter "Gogo". Schiaparelli relied greatly on the emotional support offered her by her close friend Gabrielle 'Gaby' Buffet-Picabia, the wife of Dada/Surrealist artist Francis Picabia.

Schiaparelli’s design career was influenced by couturier Paul Poiret, who was renowned for jettisoning corseted, over-long dresses and promoting styles that enabled freedom of movement for the modern, elegant and sophisticated woman. In later life, Schiaparelli referred to Poiret as "a generous mentor, dear friend."

Schiaparelli had no training in the technical skills of pattern making and clothing construction. Her method of approach relied on both impulse of the moment and the serendipitous inspiration as the work progressed. She draped fabric directly on the body, sometimes using herself as the model. This technique followed the lead of Poiret who too had created garments by manipulating and draping. The results appeared uncontrived and wearable.

Schiaparelli was also renowned for her unusual buttons, which could resemble candlesticks, playing card emblems, ships, crowns, crickets, or silver tambourines. Many of these fastenings were designed by Jean Clement and Roger Jean-Pierre, who also created jewellery for her. In 1936, Schiaparelli was one of the first people to recognise the potential of Jean Schlumberger, who she originally employed as a designer of buttons.

Schiaparelli's output also included distinctive costume jewellery in a wide range of novelty designs. One of her most directly Surrealist designs was a 1938 Rhodoid (a newly developed clear plastic) necklace studded with coloured metallic insects by Clément, giving the illusion that the bugs were crawling directly on the wearer's skin. During the 1930s, her jewellery designs were mostly produced by Schlumberger, Clemént and Jean-Pierre. 

Schlumberger's jewellery, with its inventive combinations of precious and semi-precious stones proved successful, prompted him to launch his jewellery business in New York at the end of the '30s. Schiaparelli also offered brooches by Alberto Giacometti, fur-lined metal cuffs by Méret Oppenheim, and pieces by Max Boinet, Lina Barrette, and the writer Elsa Triolet. Compared to her unusual couture 1930s pieces, 1940s and 1950s Schiaparelli jewellery tended to be more abstract or floral-themed.

 Schiaparelli also designed the wardrobe for several films, including Moulin Rouge in which Gabor played Jane Avril. She famously dressed Mae West for Every Day's a Holiday (1937) using a mannequin based on West's measurements, which inspired the torso bottle for Shocking perfume. 

Schiaparelli's fanciful imaginative powers coupled with involvement in the Dada/Surrealist art movements directed her into new creative territory. Her instinctive sensibilities soon came to distinguish her creations from her chief rival Coco Chanel, who referred to her as 'that Italian artist who makes clothes'. Schiaparelli collaborated with a number of contemporary artists, most famously with Salvador Dalí to develop a number of her most notable designs. 

The House of Schiaparelli was first opened in the 1930s at 21 Place Vendôme, but was shut down on 13 December 1954. The failure of her business meant that Schiaparelli's name is not as well remembered as that of her great rival Chanel. But in 1934, Time placed Chanel in the second division of fashion, whereas Schiaparelli was one of "a handful of houses now at or near the peak of their power as arbiters of the ultra-modern haute couture....Madder and more original than most of her contemporaries, Mme Schiaparelli is the one to whom the word "genius" is applied most often". Schiaparelli relied on inspiration rather than craftsmanship and, "it was not long before every little dress factory in Manhattan had copied them and from New York's 3rd Avenue to San Francisco's Howard Street millions of shop girls who had never heard of Schiaparelli were proudly wearing her models".