The Laurenficiation of America

By Paige McKirahan

To celebrate the revival of Western wear this fall, it is important to recognize one of the fashion world’s most iconic designers that made Americana inspired pieces a staple in wardrobes across the globe. Can you guess who it is? We’ll give you a few hints: colorful polos, teddy bear motifs, and American flags. If you said Ralph Lauren, the creative mind behind his namesake brand, you guessed correctly! This year, the brand is celebrating its 50^th anniversary, marking half a century of trials, tribulations, and unmatched success.

(image credits to Vogue.com)

Ralph Lauren, born Ralph Lifshitz in 1939, is a Bronx native that studied business prior to his arrival to the fashion world. He began his long career as a designer and businessman during his secondary and post- secondary studies; he would upsell handmade ties to his peers and eventually became a neckwear salesman at Brooks Brothers. After he grew tired of selling others designs and being inspired by thicker European tie styles that contrasted the popular thin ties of the time, he attempted to persuade his employer to allow him to create and sell his own pieces. Upon Brooks Brothers refusal, he approached a multitude of other manufacturers before Beau Brummell, an upscale NYC neckwear boutique, eventually accepted his proposal in 1967. Lauren begin selling and creating pieces right from their Empire State building showroom with nothing but a single drawer to work out of.

His success in Beau Brummell prompted the expansion of his products into other small boutiques and eventually brought on a deal with Bloomingdales. Lauren decided to continue with this growth and came to the conclusion that it was time to form his own company; with the help of his brother Jerry and with support from Manhattan clothing manufacturer Norman Hilton, Polo Fashions, Inc. was born in 1968. The polo name was incorporated because of Lauren’s love for athletics and the style that came along with it, despite the fact that he himself had never participated in the sport. Four years after the brands conception, he decided to introduce what can be considered the label’s most iconic design: the short sleeved collared shirt with a polo pony on the chest. 

After the release of this cult classic, the brand grew substantially over the following decades and expanded into women’s wear, fragrances, and home goods. The name was changed in 1987 to the Polo/ Ralph Lauren Corporation and it was around that time that the rise of streetwear iconography took hold of some of the label’s most emblematic figures. When the brand released its first American Flag sweater in 1989, it prompted toy maker Stieff to gift Lauren with a teddy bear wearing a mini Polo outfit. He loved the bear so much that he began selling the it in stores and put its likeness on sweaters and shirts, a design that is still overwhelmingly popular in the streetwear community today. 

(image credits to highsnobiety.com)

 In 1993, Lauren decided to step away from ivy league style and walk a more rugged path with the creation of Double RL (RRL). Though he had country-inspired collections that preceded this new design channel, he wanted to create something completely separate that would allow to fully explore the vintage Western motif away from his parent brand. This sub-brand broke out of the constraints of the Polo aesthetic and its source of inspiration lied in the prairies with early 20^th century workwear. RRL, which is named after none other than the Lauren’s over 15,000-acre ranch in Colorado, includes a full line of shirts, denim, flannels, sweaters, jackets, and chinos that emulated the designer’s love for Americana in an entirely new light.

 

(image credits to heddels.com)

The brand’s commitment to recreating accurate representations of heritage is evident by its careful selection of fabrics, construction, and color. With the use of leather, fringe, and Navajo style patterns, he conveyed this vintage feel with ease. One of the true embodiments of Western workwear is blue denim; the denim line in this collection is coveted with each pair being cut and sewn from the meticulously created East-West denim, making the Slim Fit Selvedge Jean a fan favorite. The pant has a five pocket construction and can range from mid to low rise with a button fly and leather waist patch. A rare feature of this denim is that it offers three options for inseam- length, allowing buyers to choose their perfect fit.

Today, Ralph Lauren is still headquartered in New York with over $2 billion in annual revenue. The story of its creation is truly a rags to riches display of the American dream; he took his ideas from a small drawer in Manhattan to the drawers of clothing lovers all around the globe. Though Lauren himself is no longer the brand’s CEO, for 48 years he was the driving creative force behind his beloved fashion house that made the prep aesthetic a cornerstone in the fashion community. Let’s all be sure to pull on our boots and polos to commemorate this golden anniversary the right way and for a little more inspiration, head over to our collection to get 20% off Western styles for this weekend only!

From the Rodeo to Rodeo Drive
by Paige McKirahan

For those from the country like me, Western wear has always been the norm worn by people in the community, on trend or not. Full denim outfits, leather, cowboy boots, fringe, large belt buckles, and flannels can be seen at any county fair on full display but now, those trends are stepping off of dirt roads and onto the runway.

This Western revival began a couple of years ago with a few '90s favorites coming back into circulation; black leather belts with shining horse buckles and suede for skirts and shirts alike were taken back out of the closet along with many other '90s trends as vintage became the “it” style. This fall, fashion is taking this Western interest and running with it after its success on the Spring/ Summer runways. Raf Simons, the new creative director of Calvin Klein, chose to go West for his first show with the label and it paid off in a big way. This nostalgic Americana look grabbed the attention of the public as Simons created a collection that embodied dark American history and horror inspired by films like Carrie and Midnight Cowboy. His full denim outfits adorned iconic public figures like Solange and A$AP Rocky, putting Britney and Justin’s 2001 American Music Awards ensemble to shame.

A$AP Mob for Raf Simons Western Calvin Klein Campaign

Celine, Versace, Chloe, Tom Ford, Alberta Ferretti, Coach, and Hermes are just a few of the other big names that saddled up and incorporated prairie aesthetics into their fall lines. Vogue and Harper’s Bazaar both go as far as naming Western one of this season’s most prominent trends. Capped cowboy boots, denim and plaid button downs secured up to the neck, saddle bags, snakeskin, and fringe are back, but always remember: keep it chic and keep it you.

Most Iconic Designer Bags of All Time

Happy Handbag Flash Sale Week!

 

In celebration of our upcoming flash sale, we figured it was only appropriate to explore what handbags are considered to be the most popular in the history of the accessory. The idea of investing in luxury handbags is a new one, but many of these designs have survived for decades and are still celebrating their icon status (hello, quilted Chanel bag!). After scouring Google’s variety of articles arguing what handbag is more coveted than the next, we have decided to compile a list of what we feel are the top nine most popular bags in no particular order. The stories of some may surprise you so read on to see if you own an iconic piece in fashion history!

Louis Vuitton Speedy Bag

 

The Speedy 30cm, which is the first bag released from the fashion house, was designed in 1930 and was a favorite of Audrey Hepburn! At the request of the Tiffany’s star herself, the brand created a 25cm style that shot the Speedy to icon status. They now come in a variety of sizes ranging from duffle bag to near change purse!

Chanel 2.55

 

This bag, created in February of 1955 (inspiring the 2.55 name), was designed by Coco Chanel because she grew tired of carrying her handbags as either a clutch or with hand straps. Her solution? The incorporation of the shoulder strap! This bag comes in a variety of colors and patterns but the most recognizable style is quilted in either black or white.

 

 

Hermes Birkin

 

One of the most expensive and coveted pieces on this list, the Hermes Birkin can range from the low thousands to six figures in price depending on the year and style of the piece. Jane Birkin, an English actress, and Jean-Lous Dumas, Hermes chief executive, met by chance on a flight and as Dumas watched Birkin struggle with her carry on, he began thinking about the design of handbags. He used her as an inspiration and aid in creating a new, functional bag that would easily carry all of one’s belongings and voila! The Birkin was born!

Hermes Kelly

 

Another one of the Hermes brand’s fan favorites is the Kelly. Formerly known as the Sac à dépêches, this bag was popularized by none other than Princess Grace Kelly herself. Created in the 1930s, the Kelly was a favorite of Graces and it became an iconic symbol of status after a photo of the Princess using the bag to cover her pregnant belly flooded the media in the 50s. The bag was renamed after the film star and has been sought after since.

Celine Luggage Tote

 

A younger design compared to the aforementioned pieces, Celine released the Luggage tote in the early 2000s. It only became iconic after the fashion forward Olsen twins were seen sporting one; they then became one of the most popular bags in history, selling out before they even reached stores. If you interested in one of these bags, you better head to the website and get on a waitlist as many designs are not even sold in Celine stores!

Balenciaga City

 

The Balenciaga City bag is also a newer design, but that doesn’t mean it’s not eligible to be an icon. After its conception, the bag did not get approved past the prototype stage as it was deemed “too soft”. When the bag was requested for a runway show in 2001, it became one of Kate Moss’s favorites and sold out in seconds when it officially hit the market.

 

 

Chloe Paddington

 

In 2002, the French brand Chloe released the Paddington bag during the perfect era: the rise of ecommerce and social networking. The bag was quickly snatched up by the biggest “it” girls of the time, creating a global sensation. It was reported by Vogue that when it was introduced, the Paddington was ordered so far in advance that it sold out of the 8,000 bags in inventory before it even hit stores!

 

 

Fendi Baguette

 

The Fendi Baguette bag created in 1997 is considered by some experts to be one of the first official “it” bags of our time as it was a favorite of fashion icon Carrie Bradshaw in Sex and the City. Though it is smaller than the others on this list, it packs a big punch as it is commonly adorned with a variety of prints and textures in addition to the Fendi logo clasp.

 

 

Louis Vuitton Neverfull

 

Another LV favorite, the Neverfull was created in 2007 as a carry-all tote that comes in three sizes. On top of being able to hold all of your belongings and more, it is one of the most durable bags on the luxury market; to test this, Louis Vuitton fills them with 3.5 kgs of weight, then drops them half a meter! This sturdiness can be attributed to the craftsmanship that goes into creating the Neverfull. Did you know they can take up to 45 hours to make?

Did you see anything familiar? We would sure think so! Now that you have handbags on the mind, be sure to make your calendars for this Saturday, so you can pick up some of your own pieces at our flash sale! 

 

This Saturday Sep 1st 12-6PM EST. Use Code: Sep1 for 30% OFF selected bags

Throughout the 19th century and into the 20th, a tidal wave hit the art world that changed the composition of style across every creative medium. Art forms ranging from architecture, graphics, interior design, jewelry, and textiles became embraced and revitalized by the newest trend: Art Nouveau. The term, which means “new art” in French, represents the break away from traditional ideals of the time and signifies the birth of a new, cutting edge aesthetic that would change the art world forever.

The Victorian era, which spans from the 1830s to around 1890, is marked by Queen Victoria’s reign and preceded the Art Nouveau period. It signified a move away from the romantic styles of dress and instead, tight fitting bodices, corsets, and pleats became the “it” trends of the time. Hourglass silhouettes were highly desired and to achieve this sometimes deadly look, layers of petticoats and corsets were combined to cinch waists and create a symbol of status. Accessory wise, bonnets tended to be the headpiece of choice along with headpieces made of ornate artificial flowers. Subdued, lighter shades were typically used in all mediums and this choice aligned with the public’s perception of women to be soft and meek creatures.

The 1850s signified a move away from dome shaped skirts and petticoats and instead progressed toward tapered and flared skirts that helped exaggerate waistlines even more than before. Crinoline, which is a stiff fabric made of woven horsehair, was used to add volume to skirts; it was expensive and difficult to clean, making it hard for middle class women to fully adopt the trend. Then, hoop skirts were introduced. These skirts used cages and crinoline to create a more economical and light weight option that allowed women of all classes to sport huge, voluminous skirts. Prior to this creation, women had limited movement in their clothing as layers of petticoats made it difficult to walk and sit. This trend became so popular that two New York factories produced over 3,000 cages a day, making the cage skirt a staple of Victorian era fashion.

 

Crinoline Cage Skirt

 

(image credits to bellatory.com)

 

The industrial revolution brought a multitude of new technologies that transformed the world of fashion and jewelry as the sewing machine and synthetic dyes allowed clothing to be produced quickly and cheaply. Charles Worth, a Parisian clothing designer, took advantage of this and began creating costumes for European royalty in 1860. His work was so influential he is considered to the Father of Haute Couture! Later in the decade, he introduced the over skirt. This gave women another way to add fullness in the rear and it combined with the revitalization of the bustle birthed a new look entirely. Fullness was seen in the back of the of skirts rather than all the way around and narrow shoulders, tiny waists, and wide hips were on trend in a big way in the 1880s.

Victorian Dress with bustle and overskirt

 

(image credits to bellatory.com)

 

Many people did not welcome these changes though, and those who followed the Aesthetic Movement longed for simpler looks. Instead of adopting the stiff and ornate styles of dress popularized in this era, these folk wore garments that were without structure and created by hand. Synthetic dyes and sewing machines were not used and instead, pieces were hand dyed and embroidered featuring nature oriented motifs.

The jewelry of the era started off subtle and evolved with industrial and societal changes. At the beginning of the Queen’s reign, jewelry was romantic as it was when she was first engaged then married to Prince Albert. Her engagement ring was an emerald-eyed snake eating its own tail; this design, symbolizing eternal love, prompted the popularity of snake motifs in pieces of this time. Florals, gold, and glistening bright gemstones were commonly used and conveyed love, good fortune, and economic growth.  Dark mourning jewelry then became widely popularized by Queen Victoria’s decades of grief over the death of her husband (for more info on mourning jewelry, head to https://talkingfashion.net/blogs/news/mourning-jewelry-momento-mori-s-through-time !!) The revival of older styles also was found in this period as travel and the exploration of ancient sites prompted imitations of Renaissance, Egyptian, and Etruscan designs to recirculate. Towards the end of the era, equestrian jewelry and the choker (which we have seen become popular time and time again), also became popularized by Victoria’s children as her taste was eclipsed by younger generations.

The Art Nouveau style truly came into its own between 1890 and 1914. In this era, clothing became a sort of decorative art rather than a boisterous and controlled representation of wealth and style; corsets and bustles were out and liberation was in. It challenged the idea of classical dress by welcoming flamboyance and breaking away from the strictness of the previous period. This was the first time gender norms were truly challenged and women were presented in everything from suits to seductive lingerie.

 

Champenois Imprimeur-Éditeur by Alponse Mucha, 1897. This was a piece became a sort of icon for the movement

 

(image credits to theluxecafe.com)

 

The look that this era brought was cutting edge and many wore it in moderation, leaving the more ornate and couture pieces for those of high status. Long, organic lines and moderate, darker colors such as mustard yellow, dark red, olive brown, violet, and blue were widely used to create asymmetrical styles. Many designs were inspired by nature (similar those in the Aesthetic Movement) and used softer fabrics such as charmeuse, chiffon, and batiste. Paul Poiret was an iconic designer of the time and he along with a multitude of other French couturiers fully immersed themselves in this art form, spreading the style thought international fashion journals such as Les Modes down to fashion magazines like The Ladies Field. The involvement of artists Vincent Van Gogh and Alphonse Mucha, glass and jewelry maker Louis Comfort Tiffany, and illustrator Aubrey Beardsley also influenced the looks of the time immensely as their iconic styles encompassed the aesthetic shift of the era.

Art Nouveau jewelry was woman centric and loved to explore nature and sexuality, which had never previously been done. Many pieces were large and splendorous, and the focus was less on material and more on design. They were widely made of enamel and used the translucent plique-à-jour enamel, which gave pieces a sort of “stained glass” look. Horn and ivory was heated, carved, and bent to create pieces and diamonds were seldom used for anything other as an accent stone. Leading designers of this period included Louis Comfort Tiffany and Rene Lalique, who was a huge fan of the nature motif. As much of this jewelry was made of enamel, it means pieces in good condition are rare and highly sought after. Those that are in good condition can be worth a pretty penny; a Lalique pendent from this era sold for $212,500, more than double its highest estimate, in 2015.  

Art Nouveau pieces

(image credits to farlang.com)

As many prominent trends are, Art Nouveau was and has been revived many times throughout history. Anna Sui is a lover of Art Nouveau and her bohemian prints are reminiscent of the movement’s colors and design. Prada dabbled in with the style in the 1960s and experiments with flowing, Nouveau inspired silhouettes. Alberta Ferretti has also been influenced by the movement on multiple occasions, most specifically in his Spring/ Summer 2013 collection and his at Pre-Fall 2016 presentation.

Anna Sui design compared to Art Nouveau print

 

(images credit to theluxecafe.com)

If you want to recreate the iconic styles of these eras, we encourage you to head over to our collection and be sure to search “Art Nouveau” or “Victorian” to see how you can begin a revival all on your own!