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Creeping Into the World of Jewelry: The History of Insect Motifs
Creeping Into the World of Jewelry: The History of Insect Motifs
By Paige McKirahan
Over time, we have observed designers and innovators create pieces of art and fashion that reflect the interests of society. Given our long standing fascination with nature, it was only natural that insect motifs would crawl their way into the wild world of accessories. From using real insects to creating them out of diamonds and pearls, this aesthetic choice has been popular for centuries and it seems that it is here to stay.
As many common themes in jewelry do, the practice of incorporating insects in accessories has roots in ancient Egypt. Scarabs in amulets were widely popularized and most of the time, real scarabs would be used in the creation of these pieces. Butterflies, which are the most popular insects depicted in fashion, were incorporated into Egyptian bracelets as early as 2600 B.C. It has been said that wearing insect motifs has long been associated with the symbolism surrounding each of these arthropods. The cicada along with some variations of beetles and butterflies have positive attributes relating to immortality, rebirth, rejuvenation, longevity, and courage.
Why do we form these types of associations you ask? It could be attributed to the fact that we have been able to naturally or historically observe the lives of insects. Many go undergo the process of metamorphosis, where they grow and completely alter their appearance in different growth stages. Though ancient wearers of these designs may not have known about the science behind these transformations, they would have still noticed these obvious changes, influencing them to form the positive associations we are familiar with today.
As time soldered on, insects were incorporated into designs sporadically until they burst in popularity in the Victorian, Edwardian, Art Nouveau eras. Throughout these periods, natural themes were popular in all forms of art, from fashion to architecture. The emerging industrial era and romantic associations surrounding nature prompted the widespread use of insect motifs. Many featured depictions of moths, butterflies, and dragonflies, and were created from a variety of gems, pearls, and colored glasses.
Insects in fashion are still prominent themes in collections from Jeffrey Campbell to Betsey Johnson. Whether it be in ancient Egypt or the New York runways, we love the wild look of arthropods in jewelry here at TalkingFashion! Head over to our collection and search for your favorite bug-inspired pieces to accessorize any season!
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Fashion Flashback: Lockets
Fashion Flashback: Lockets
by Morgan Watkins
An item of sentiment and utility, the locket is truly a dazzling antique to behold. With such a rich history and wide array of functions, lockets carry with them more than just dusty portraits. Keep on reading to expand your horizons on what makes lockets such special accessories.
While the earliest known lockets date back to the 16th century, it is said that they were initially inspired from ancient amulets and pendants from the Middle Ages. Some cultures wore lockets containing special charms to ward off evil spirits and energy, and although we now associate lockets with affection and love, they commonly carried items with less than sentimental value like herbs, perfume soaked fabric squares, and in sinister situations, poison. Locket necklaces were quite popular, but locket rings and brooches were also worn by those who could afford them. Queen Elizabeth I popularized the locket ring in 1575 with her one of a kind style holding portraits of herself and her late mother, Anne Boleyn. This tender display of familial love added significant meaning to the jewelry of this time, particularly with locket styles.
By the 1600s, lockets became symbols of political alignment. With the passing of King Charles I in 1649, supporters far and wide wore lockets containing his portrait to pay homage to his life and death. Some faithful King Charles advocates even managed to snag a lock of the king’s hair from his execution, which they then carried within their jewelry to commemorate his reign. While this may seem like an odd or extreme gesture, carrying the hair of a loved one within a locket was actually common practice in the 17th century, especially with the rise of mourning jewelry. These lockets were characteristically heavy, dark and contained the portrait of a lost loved one.
Commonly made from precious metals and gems, lockets and most other jewelry were primarily sold to those with considerable wealth during the 18th century. It was around this time that the iconic heart shaped locket was born. Ranging from a variety of different metals and finishes, heart shaped lockets, like mourning jewelry, contained locks of hair or portraits of lovers. Some were made of transparent materials, putting their love on display for the world to see. They were a sign of not only love, but also honesty, truth and purity.
By the late 19th century, lockets became less of an accessory for the rich and more of an item for everyone as cheaper materials were used to create more affordable jewelry. Also aiding in the widespread access of lockets was the improvement of photography, which made it easier for locket lovers to obtain quality and long lasting portraits to be inserted into their jewelry. Unisex lockets came in the form of pins, bracelets, buttons, rings and necklaces, making them items that could be worn by men and women alike.
With the presence of both World Wars came the emergence of sweetheart jewelry. The locket in particular was an essential jewelry item in the realm of sweetheart accessories, as soldiers would leave their loved ones with portraits of themselves stowed away in lockets while they were off on the battlegrounds. 20th century sweetheart lockets also became a sign of patriotism, as they displayed the wearer’s pride in their loved ones serving the country, as well as pride towards what their country was fighting for.
After the dust had settled on World War II, all that was left was mourning paired with hope for a better future. Lockets fell out of favor for decades, serving only as reminders of past times and people. But with the rise of vintage and antique inspired jewelry, lockets are slowly but surely re-emerging into the fashion spotlight. In recent years, revered fashion magazines like Elle and Vogue have rooted for lockets within online and print publications. Last winter, the Tory Burch Pre-Fall 2018 collection featured in Vogue displayed the gleaming Walnut Locket Necklace, which paired perfectly with a silky button up and bohemian maxi dress.
(Image from https://www.toryburch.com/walnut-locket-necklace)
Regardless of what you put in your jewelry, be sure to jump on the trend now by checking out talkingfashion.net for the latest and greatest locket styles out there! And if you have a locket of your own you’d like to pass on, we would love to consign with you. But please — keep any poison at home.
References:
“A Sentimental History Of Lockets.” The Artyologist, 14 Feb. 2017,http://www.theartyologist.com/sentimental-history-of-lockets/.
“Locket History: Heart Lockets & Photo Keepsakes Through the Ages.” With YouLockets, https://withyoulockets.com/about/history-of-lockets. Phelps, Nicole. “Tory Burch Pre-Fall 2018.” Vogue, 1 Dec. 2017,
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/pre-fall-2018/tory-burch.
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Steampunk Style
Steampunk Style by Morgan Watkins
What do you get when you combine various cultures and subcultures like gothics, sci-fi fans, cyberpunks and more? The answer is steampunk, which is defined by the Daily Dot as “a subculture encompassing fashion, music, literature, movies, DIY model-making, and gaming.” Commonly, these looks encompass both the future and the past, playing off of older designs and styles that’re revamped with an industrial twist. Still a bit fuzzy on what steampunk really is? Read on to learn more about the aesthetics, history and influence of steampunk style.Although it wasn’t until the 1990s that the movement gained popularity, early influences date back to the 19th century French illustrator, Albert Robida, whose intricate Victorian-esque art inspired DIY fashion fanatics to reinvent 18th and 19th century looks. Around the 1970s and 80s, the growing popularity of sci-fi films and novels made steampunk flourish, along with the help 1990s grunge, goth and cyberpunk mania. Steampunk band Abney Park, who even had a song titled “Steampunk Revolution,” initially rocked futuristic trinkets and edgy costumes in music videos, inspiring countless musicians in a variety of genres to don steampunk ensembles for performances, videos and more.
(Image from https://www.chicagopopculturecon.com/steampunk/)
The foundation of steampunk fashion is, of course, based on Victorian silhouettes and shapes. Leather vests, oversized buckles, metallic trinkets, lace corsets, goggle adorned top hats, and clockwork embellished accessories are just a few staples that pair with a variety of styles and themes, like goth, fantasy, and other popular cosplay aesthetics. While most looks come from a Victorian foundation, steampunk allows individuals to create totally personalized and unique costumes that can help them express a particular vibe or identity. More is more, and the possibilities are endless.
(Image from https://blog.stylewe.com/steampunk-fashion-eccentric-esthetic-style/)
While the steampunk movement started as an underground trend adopted by so-called “outcasts” or “hipsters,” it quickly garnered popularity among mainstream pop culture. By the late 2000s, the quirky style of steampunk was being celebrated widely on television, in music and within film. Steampunk’d , for example, was a TV show featuring 10 contestants competing in challenges revolving around the construction of steampunk looks. Movies like Sherlock Holmes and Series of Unfortunate Events also took on steampunk costuming, as did artists like Panic! At The Disco in their music video for “The Ballad of Mona Lisa.” Justin Bieber even joined in on the trend for his “Santa Claus is Coming to Town” music video.
(Image from https://lieselhindmann.wordpress.com/tag/the-ballad-of-mona-lisa/ )
Steampunk isn’t just a movement in fashion, but rather a niche that allows people of all walks of life to bond over fashion and costuming. Goths, cyberpunks, sci-fi or fantasy fanatics: everyone is accepted under the steampunk umbrella, where individuals far and wide are free to get creative and express themselves however they see fit, even if that means dismantling an old alarm clock for the sake of fashion.
References:
Baker-Whitelaw, Gavia. “What Is Steampunk? A Comprehensive Beginner’s Guide.” TheDaily Dot, 15 Oct. 2016, The Daily Dot, http://www.website.com.
“Steampunk’d.” IMDb, https://www.imdb.com/title/tt4777200/plotsummary?ref_=tt_ov_pl. -
Pioneering the Scarf Industry
Pioneering the Scarf Industry
By Paige McKirahan
Seeing as how we have already learned the history behind the magnificent accessory, we begun to wonder about the designers who paved the way for scarves to become the classic piece that they are today. Hermes, of course, burst onto the scene with their wonderful silk designs that exuded luxury and wealth, capturing the attention of everyone from starlets to the everyday person. But what about the other popular designers that took the piece and molded it into something of their own? Read on to hear of our favorite scarf designers and brands throughout time (and to find some of their pieces in our shop!)
When the brand first stepped onto the scene in 1939, it emerged under the umbrella of the Glendser Textile Co. that received its first registered trademark for lady’s scarves and handkerchiefs. In the following decades up into the 1970s, Glentex became increasingly popular and was widely known for their beaded collars and vibrant patterns. Many pieces were made in Japan out of a wide variety of fabrics, including silk and rayon. At the height of their popularity, they even partnered with our beloved Schiaparelli and Gloria Vanderbilt to create high fashion pieces!
This brand, which was popularized by their easy-to-carry rainboots, hails from our home state of Ohio! Specializing in rainwear and waterproof accessories, Totes truly began in 1942 and shot to fame after they introduced the first collapsible umbrella in 1970. From there on out, they began creating other popular rainwear, including the coveted water resistant scarf. This supermarket and drugstore brand is still operating today and boasts a large collection of colorful, waterproof accessories that even high fashion lovers love to sport!
After its conception in the ‘20s, Echo began building an impressive arsenal of patterns that would build rapport until the late ‘70s when the scarf business began to see a decline. When the creators' daughter, Dorothy, took over the company after her husband’s death, she was determined to beat the dwindling sales and did just that in 1983 when the brand made its way into the European market. After a slew of licensing agreements with fashion and home goods giants like Ralph Lauren and Laura Ashley, the company began releasing more accessories and home furnishings that expanded their profits and popularity exponentially. Today, it is still privately owned by the family and this emerging lifestyle brand still celebrates their humble roots with their 95 anniversary just having passed in September. In their blog commemorating the event, they even go as far as saying that they feel responsible for bringing the scarf to the world of fashion (Bold statement! Do you agree?)
Though there seems to be many famous Vera’s in the fashion industry (think Bradley and Wang), Vera Neumann is one of the most iconic of them all; her namesake brand made beautiful art affordable and not just a thing to be admired on the wall. With all of her scarf designs being based upon original paintings, it is evident that Vera had creative roots in textiles and illustration. When she began a silkscreen printing company with her husband George and their friend Frederick, it saw almost immediate success. In the midst of World War II, the growing company was looking for ways to continue manufacturing product despite heavy rations; she stumbled upon some parachute silk at an army surplus store and voila! Her scarf business was born. She created the first signature scarf in history with her name transferred to every product, making her a household favorite with recognition all around the country. Marilyn Monroe, Grace Kelly, and even the First Lady Bess Truman loved her designs as she requested the "Vera" fabric be used in White House Decor. Her iconic presence in both the art and fashion worlds landed her work in the Metropolitan Museum of Art, The Museum of History and Technology, and the Museum of Modern Art. She was even commissioned to paint the Foucault Pendulum in the Smithsonian, which can still be seen hanging in their offices today.
As one of the industry’s most knowledgeable scarf entrepreneurs, Elaine Gold got her start as Vera’s assistant where she was the studio business manager tasked with helping develop and market the scarf business. 19 years later, she joined another budding scarf business, Robinsons & Colluber, where she was one of the first to make waves in brand marketing for the scarf industry. She then joined another one of our designer favorites, Totes, and ran their XIIX Karats brand that she eventually bought in 1983. Changing its name to Collection XIIX, she built it into a powerhouse with licenses from Anne Klein and Jones New York. When Drew Pizzo bought her company in the ‘90s, she went on to create Elaine Gold Enterprises, which found its first license with the US Postal Service! She worked with the Met, Vera Bradley, and essentially anyone in the industry looking to promote their scarves as she was the “go to” expert in the field.
Though there are a wide variety of other scarf designers that paved the way for today’s successors, these are some of our favorites. In addition, Avon, Paoli, and Burmel created high quality designs that were affordable and can be seen in vintage shops all over the world. On the higher end, Valentino, Missoni, and Givenchy all have been creating luxury scarves adored by the industry for decades. To purchase any of these brands, check out our links throughout this post or search our collection to find some hidden gems of your own!
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Fashion Flashback: Scarves & Foulards
Fashion Flashback: Scarves & Foulards by Morgan Watkins
With fall kicking up crunchy orange leaves followed by the wafting aroma of all things pumpkin spice, it is due time for the return of one of autumn’s most beloved accessories: the scarf. While they can be worn all year round in an endless combination of styles and fabrics, scarves and foulards are the epitome of the colder season to come. Read on to learn more about where these cozy accessories originated and how they’ve evolved over past centuries.
It was in Ancient Egypt that the first recorded scarf was worn. Queen Nefertiti, a woman known for her beauty and her reign alongside husband, Pharaoh Akhenaten, wore a scarf tightly around her neck around 1350 B.C. Later on in 230 B.C., cloth scarves were used to show military rank among the people of China while under the rule of Emperor Cheng. Silk equated to higher level positions, while those of lower ranks donned scarves made of cotton. This trend in establishing rank would carry onto the 1600s, where Croatian mercenaries wore scarves, or “cravats,” of varying colors to display who stood where on the military totem pole.
By the 1700s, scarves became a symbol of condolences In New England as they were handed on to mourning families by funeral attendees. Eventually, Massachusetts legislature determined that this form of “funeral extravagance” would be no more and passed a law barring the exchange of scarves. It was around this time that the knit scarf came to fruition via the Third Duke of Krakow, who wanted a scarf that would keep his neck warm as opposed to serving solely as a fashion statement.
Another man who enjoyed a lovely scarf was the famously renowned composer, Beethoven, who was said to have worn a silk scarf paired with dapper suits in an attempt to woo his beloved Therese Malfatti. Over time, silk scarves became even more popular as they were used as accessories to define status and wealth in the early 1800s and throughout the entirety of the Victorian Era. Within this timeframe, designers known for their scarves, like Hermès and Burberry, were born. Unfortunately, it took an entire century before Hermès dove into creating their notoriously iconic graphic silk scarves. Burberry, the brand famous for their signature plaid accessories, also would not design their cashmere neckwear until the mid-to-late 1900s.
(Image from https://www.therealreal.com/products/women/accessories/scarves-and-shawls/hermes-l es-cles-silk-scarf-NG6-VbjUHGE)
Dance culture also had an impact on the rise of scarves in history. Back in the later 1200s, Egyptian belly dancers commonly wore scarves tied low on the hips to accentuate their movements and style. Fast forward to the early 1900s and long, flowing scarves were trending, thanks to dancer Isadora Duncan. Duncan ironically passed away from an accident involving the tangling of her scarf with an automobile wheel, but the memory of her most cherished accessory lived on. Fur scarves took over French fashion in the 30s, while wearing neckwear around the forehead was in vogue during the hippy days of the 70s.
(Image from https://talkingfashion.net/products/fur-velvet-scarf-brown-slim-long-luxurious-vintage-acc essory)
It is worth noting that scarves and foulards are not merely worn by individuals to superficially boost the overall aesthetic of an outfit, as they can be worn for religious and cultural purposes as well. Colorful and patterned head scarves may be worn by African women, or women of African descent, to celebrate their heritage and culture. Muslim women don hijabs as a symbol of modesty and religious virtue, while turbans are seen on the heads of men and women practising Sikhism. Last year, Nike disclosed that they would begin selling performance hijabs for athletes of Muslim faith, taking a grand step in the right direction towards including Muslim individuals in American culture as well as standing in solidarity for Muslim rights.
(Image from https://www.usatoday.com/story/news/world/2017/12/20/nike-begins-selling-sports-hijab -muslim-female-athletes/970226001/)
From easy breezy infinity scarves to free flowing cashmere wraps, scarves offer endless possibilities to style and accessorize your look. Regardless of what kind of scarf you wear or why you wear it, these accessories are reliable, simple staples available to all genders, ages, cultures and faiths. If you’re in the market for a fancy foulard or to sell a snazzy scarf, check out talkingfashion.net for some sleek styles and consignment options!
References:
“THE HISTORY OF SCARVES: A TIMELINE.” Scarves.net, 25 Jan. 2012, https://www.scarves.net/blogs/scarves/the-history-of-scarves-a-timeline. Stanglin, Doug.
“Nike Begins Selling Sports Hijab for Muslim Female Athletes.” USA Today, 20 Dec. 2017, https://www.usatoday.com/story/news/world/2017/12/20/nike-begins-selling-sport s-hijab-muslim-female-athletes/970226001/.
