Fashion Flashback: Scarves & Foulards by Morgan Watkins

With fall kicking up crunchy orange leaves followed by the wafting aroma of all things pumpkin spice, it is due time for the return of one of autumn’s most beloved accessories: the scarf. While they can be worn all year round in an endless combination of styles and fabrics, scarves and foulards are the epitome of the colder season to come. Read on to learn more about where these cozy accessories originated and how they’ve evolved over past centuries.

It was in Ancient Egypt that the first recorded scarf was worn. Queen Nefertiti, a woman known for her beauty and her reign alongside husband, Pharaoh Akhenaten, wore a scarf tightly around her neck around 1350 B.C. Later on in 230 B.C., cloth scarves were used to show military rank among the people of China while under the rule of Emperor Cheng. Silk equated to higher level positions, while those of lower ranks donned scarves made of cotton. This trend in establishing rank would carry onto the 1600s, where Croatian mercenaries wore scarves, or “cravats,” of varying colors to display who stood where on the military totem pole.

By the 1700s, scarves became a symbol of condolences In New England as they were handed on to mourning families by funeral attendees. Eventually, Massachusetts legislature determined that this form of “funeral extravagance” would be no more and passed a law barring the exchange of scarves. It was around this time that the knit scarf came to fruition via the Third Duke of Krakow, who wanted a scarf that would keep his neck warm as opposed to serving solely as a fashion statement.

Another man who enjoyed a lovely scarf was the famously renowned composer, Beethoven, who was said to have worn a silk scarf paired with dapper suits in an attempt to woo his beloved Therese Malfatti. Over time, silk scarves became even more popular as they were used as accessories to define status and wealth in the early 1800s and throughout the entirety of the Victorian Era. Within this timeframe, designers known for their scarves, like Hermès and Burberry, were born. Unfortunately, it took an entire century before Hermès dove into creating their notoriously iconic graphic silk scarves. Burberry, the brand famous for their signature plaid accessories, also would not design their cashmere neckwear until the mid-to-late 1900s.

(Image from https://www.therealreal.com/products/women/accessories/scarves-and-shawls/hermes-l es-cles-silk-scarf-NG6-VbjUHGE)

Dance culture also had an impact on the rise of scarves in history. Back in the later 1200s, Egyptian belly dancers commonly wore scarves tied low on the hips to accentuate their movements and style. Fast forward to the early 1900s and long, flowing scarves were trending, thanks to dancer Isadora Duncan. Duncan ironically passed away from an accident involving the tangling of her scarf with an automobile wheel, but the memory of her most cherished accessory lived on. Fur scarves took over French fashion in the 30s, while wearing neckwear around the forehead was in vogue during the hippy days of the 70s.

(Image from https://talkingfashion.net/products/fur-velvet-scarf-brown-slim-long-luxurious-vintage-acc essory)

It is worth noting that scarves and foulards are not merely worn by individuals to superficially boost the overall aesthetic of an outfit, as they can be worn for religious and cultural purposes as well. Colorful and patterned head scarves may be worn by African women, or women of African descent, to celebrate their heritage and culture. Muslim women don hijabs as a symbol of modesty and religious virtue, while turbans are seen on the heads of men and women practising Sikhism. Last year, Nike disclosed that they would begin selling performance hijabs for athletes of Muslim faith, taking a grand step in the right direction towards including Muslim individuals in American culture as well as standing in solidarity for Muslim rights.

(Image from https://www.usatoday.com/story/news/world/2017/12/20/nike-begins-selling-sports-hijab -muslim-female-athletes/970226001/)

From easy breezy infinity scarves to free flowing cashmere wraps, scarves offer endless possibilities to style and accessorize your look. Regardless of what kind of scarf you wear or why you wear it, these accessories are reliable, simple staples available to all genders, ages, cultures and faiths. If you’re in the market for a fancy foulard or to sell a snazzy scarf, check out talkingfashion.net for some sleek styles and consignment options!

References:

“THE HISTORY OF SCARVES: A TIMELINE.” Scarves.net, 25 Jan. 2012, https://www.scarves.net/blogs/scarves/the-history-of-scarves-a-timeline. Stanglin, Doug.

“Nike Begins Selling Sports Hijab for Muslim Female Athletes.” USA Today, 20 Dec. 2017, https://www.usatoday.com/story/news/world/2017/12/20/nike-begins-selling-sport s-hijab-muslim-female-athletes/970226001/.

The SS ’19 Scarf Revival

By Paige McKirahan

Is the impending cold weather giving you the winter blues before the season has even begun? Are you already scrambling to find gifts for your friends, whether they be fashion experts or trend amateurs? Scramble no longer, TalkingFashion readers; we have a wide collection of the one of the best spring 2019 trends that are sure to wow everyone on your list. As we have finally reached the conclusion of Fashion Month, bloggers and high profile magazines alike have begun to rounding up of the most prominent accessories seen gliding down runways this past September. They all have one favorite in common: the scarf. Across the globe, designers seemed to adore scarves whether they be fashioned into bags, wrapped around heads or even sewn together to make clothing.

In Paris, designers took scarf design to a new level when prints and fabrics commonly used for the accessory were instead fashioned to create clothing. Chloe loved the trend and attached long, flowing scarves to belts, giving us superhero chic with her feminine collection. Marine Serre and Ottolinger also boasted scarf like designs as many pieces in their collections emulated classic scarf motifs with ease. The bright colors, flowing silhouettes, and expressive patterns were visually stimulating and offered a new take on the classic aesthetic.

Ottolinger and Chloe SS’19

(photo credit to accessoriesmagazine.com)

Though runways in Paris boasted versatile ways to wear scarves, the most popular use for these fantastic pieces seemed to revolve around the head. Though it may appear that head-covering accessories are some of the most divisive in the fashion community, it is clear that designers agree that this long standing trend is here to stay. Tom Ford and Michael Kors alike featured a wide variety of head wraps with color palettes ranging from minimalistic chic to vibrant couture. Kate Spade’s SS ‘19 collection is quite possibly the most scarf filled of them all as almost every single model strutting down her runway was adorned with the fabric pieces around their neck or their heads. Whether you’re looking to accessorize your hair in style or simply elevate a look with ease, scarves offer a fashionable option that even the style amateurs in your life can rock!

Michael Kors, Tom Ford, and Kate Spade SS ‘19

(Image credits to elle.com)

Scarves Throughout Time

 By Paige McKirahan 

Calling all scarf lovers! Have you ever wondered how this beloved trend came into circulation? Well, wonder no more! With origins tracing their way back to ancient Eastern cultures, the high-brow accessory has come a long way since its days of being used as a sweat cloth!

The use of a scarf as an accessory is said to be pioneered by none other than Queen Nefertiti in 1350 BC Egypt; the headscarf at that time was a status symbol that alluded to royalty and nobility, both of which were qualities possessed by the Queen. She is said to have worn a tightly woven scarf (or scarf-like fabric) under her iconic cone-shaped headpiece. China used the scarf as a symbol of status as well, but in the military more than in government or with royalty. Scarves were used as early as 1000 BC in Chinese military uniform to denote rank; higher ranks typically had scarves made of finer materials and lower ranks were cut from fabrics like cotton. It also has less glamorous roots in Rome, where its general purpose was not for style, but to help people keep clean. The utilitarian version of the scarf was used primarily in 10 AD as a sweat cloth with men wearing them so often that they became an accessory. They were worn either around the neck, draped over the shoulder, or knotted around the waist (similar to how they’re worn today!)

Chinese military statues illustrating the use of scarves around the neck, showing rank

(image credits to collegefashion.net)

As time progressed, scarves began transforming into something that was less functional and more fashionable. It is said that Napoleon gifted his wife Josephine a pashmina scarf upon his return from Egypt. At first, she was weary of the gift as it was exotic and not something that was typically worn in their culture (yet). Despite this, she is noted to have become an avid collector, accumulating over 400 scarves in three years that totaled to be worth around $80,000! When the cravat stepped on the scene in Paris in the 17^th century, it emulated military styling in the way that it was tied around the neck or, on occasion, brought up around the bottom half of the face. The French Revolution popularized this style and encouraged wearers to experiment with color and style to demonstrate their devotion to a particular side.

A French Cravat

(image credit google.com)

From this point on, scarves began to make their way into the mainstream, especially after Queen Victoria’s ascension to the throne. In the early 1800s, she regularly wore glamorous silk scarves and shawls featuring a variety of eccentric patterns. This 19^th century boom in popularity pushed manufacturers to experiment with a multitude of fabrics including cloth, cashmere, wool mixes, muslin, modal and of course, silk. Following this, the First World War transformed knitting from a hobby to a war duty, and women all over the world knitted scarves for soldiers in the air and in the trenches. Pilots used both knitted and silk scarves, with the silk providing protection from neck chafing.

Queen Victoria in blue silk scarf

 (photo credit to hi-fi-audio.com)

Quite possibly one of the most important contributions to the widespread fame of the scarf was made by Thierry Hermes’ fashion house; in 1937, the French designer created the first luxury silk scarf, which was crafted from imported raw Chinese silk. The raw material was woven into high quality fabric that was stronger and heavier than any other scarf material of the time. For the final touch, images and patterns would be hand-printed onto the piece to turn them into beautiful, vibrant accessories. Though the scarves were coveted by many, they were widely unaffordable on account of their expensive construction. When rayon was invented in the 1930s, it perfectly mimicked silk for a fraction of the price; this advancement allowed more people to become involved with the trend. The outbreak of World War II forced this material to be rationed, and scarves became more of a necessity rather than a fun addition to an outfit. Women operating machinery needed a way to secure their long hair to ensure it would not be swept away, prompting them to wear the scarves to do so.

First Hermes scarf c. 1937

(photo credit to vintagefashionguide.com)

Nevertheless, scarves returned to their glamorous origins after the war when Hermes beloved style became a favorite of the globe’s most well know starlets. Audrey Hepburn and Brigitte Bardot both wore them either around the neck or on the head; Hepburn loved the style and even went as far as saying, “When I wear a silk scarf I never feel so definitely like a woman, a beautiful woman.” The Princess Grace Kelly herself wore a silk scarf on a 1956 cover for LIFE magazine, and made headlines when she used one as an arm sling later in the year. Even Queen Elizabeth II wore a Hermes scarf when photographed for postage stamps, and loved the style so much that she continues sporting it to this day!

Queen Elizabeth and Grace Kelly in Hermes designs

(photo credits pinterest.com) 

This revival pushed scarves reputation as a luxury accessory and many fashion houses took it with stride as they began transferring their signature patterns, logos, and styles onto to fabrics. This continued through the ‘80s, but in the ‘90s, the market moved away from silk scarves and the public began searching for more innovative accessories. In the 2000s, we have seen some scarf revivals, especially in the past few years as many are beginning to favor vintage styles rather than modern aesthetics. Many “it” girls will now tie scarves around their necks, or even tie them to handbags to make them stand out from the crowd! Regardless of trend, we here at TalkingFashion have been scarf lovers from the start! If you want to emulate royalty or are simply looking for a stylish way to hold back your hair, check out our scarf collection; there is sure to be something for everyone from scarf savants to doubtful debutantes!