"Style is a simple way of saying a complicated thing". Jean Cocteau

Watercolor by Columbus local artist Nancy Smeltzer

Art Deco and the Birth of Glamour

by Paige McKirahan

In a time when the stock market followed the length of lady’s skirts, a new era of art and fashion urged us away from the soft tightness of Art Nouveau and marked the beginning of bigger experimentation within these mediums. This new movement, affectionately known as the Art Deco era, spanned from the ‘20s to the mid ‘30s and brought airy silhouettes, abstraction, and fantasy to the forefront at the conclusion of World War I in 1918. After women took up hard physical work in the absence of men, they had no interest in returning to the constrictive lifestyle guidelines they once were forced to adhere to. The ‘20s became an age of financial prosperity and luxury aesthetics, with the youthful generation taking hold of post war society and creating a type of culture that prompted innovation and celebrated eccentricity.

As the economy grew, hemlines slowly climbed; by 1919, we saw skirt lengths hit mid-calf and they continued creeping up to hit the knee in 1925. During this time, dress forms moved to a more semi- fitted silhouette with dropped waists, starkly contrasting the corseted, high-waisted style of the preceding era. Up to this point, fashion had never seen a silhouette of this type and it allowed designers to innovate with new methods of seaming, draping, beading, and fabric use. Menswear and sportswear busted onto the scene and opened the door for the use of knits, leather, and rayon, all of which became important materials of the time. Of course, as we all know, this is the era of the flapper; this short lived phenomenon was a physical embodiment of glamour and the rejection of societal norms popularized in what is referred to as the Jazz Age.

Dresses by Coco Chanel c. 1925

(photo credit to langantiques.com) 

Though Art Deco does continue with the 20^th centuries’ celebration of the female figure, it takes a more sensuous approach with semi- abstract depictions of the body. Contemporary artistic movements such as cubism and futurism seeped into clothing design, favoring the styles’ interests in technological and geometric structures. This age also found inspiration in industrial landscapes with metallic color palettes and clean lines. Aside from the modern influence of the time, jewelry and clothing also found inspiration in archeological discoveries in Egypt; design motifs including pyramids, lotus blossoms, scarabs, and anything to do with ancient pharaohs became enormously popular along with Indian, Persian, and Chinese aesthetics.

 Art Deco jewelry played with the geometric and industrial based trademarks of the movement and there were essentially two major schools of jewelry design: bijoutiers-artises and bijoutiers- joailliers. The former emphasized design over monetary value and the ladder used more precious materials to outline designs and compliment diamonds, prioritizing glamour over construction. Gold began to lose its popularity as platinum and its cheaper substitute, osimor, came into circulation as it was strong and required less metal to securely hold gems. Earrings had sharp corners and were feminine, accessorizing shorter hairstyles that were popularized in the ‘20s and ‘30s. Necklace lengths became longer in order to compliment shorter hemlines and deeper necklines, commonly featuring geometric pendants or tassels. Pearl necklaces were also a staple as the production of cultured pearls allowed them to be created in mass quantities. Popular jewelry materials of the time included a variety of synthetic plastics, such as bakelite, and other wares that could imitate gemstones, bone, and other expensive natural materials.

Art Deco Cartier Necklace c. 1929

(photo credit to langantiques.com)

Though fashion had to be rationed in the 1930s when the stock market crashed, jewelry arts seemed to continue to thrive and were revolutionized to become the focal points of outfits as buying and creating new clothing was not a priority. Large brooches, flashy ear clips, thick bracelets, and ornate dress clips were adorned with gemstones and diamonds in an almost theatrical way, allowing women of the time to create endless looks despite their limited wardrobes.

The key designers of this period, Coco Chanel and Elsa Schiaparelli, were well known rivals and fashion icons. Lovers of art and glamour, they are cornerstones in this new revolution of women’s style and created pieces that are still discussed in modern times. Chanel began her career in fashion in the early 1900s, but truly became a household name when she launched Chanel No. 5 in the early ‘20s. Then, in 1925, she released the now emblematic Chanel suit; the collarless jacket and well fitted skirt borrowed motifs from menswear and allowed women to move away from confining garments and into a new realm of comfort and freedom. Her little black dress design also was also revolutionary because it framed black as something that could be glamorous rather than a color used for mourning. Her bag designs were in a league of their own, being some of the first to incorporate shoulder straps and her classic double C logo. These Chanel pieces have endured for almost a century and have been seen in some of the most historically significant moments of all time (think Jackie O’s pink Chanel suit!).

Chanel’s iconic suit and little black dress worn by none other than Audrey Hepburn

 (image credit to Google images)

Elsa Schiaparelli was a couture- minded designer who found most of her inspiration from artists of the era. She was a nonconformist, using eclectic and unique aesthetics to create clothing that were art pieces in their own right. She collaborated with artists frequently and Salvador Dali became her creator of choice as his surrealist tone complimented her outrageous taste. They created designs that are still coveted in both the fashion and art worlds and they can be seen in The Met where they celebrate her genius in their costume institute. She truly emerged into fashion when she presented her first collection of sweaters in 1927; the designs featured geometric shapes and were hand knit in her apartment in Paris. The groundbreaking couturiere then began using visible zippers in her pieces, which was unheard of at the time being a fairly new invention. She created a swimsuit with a built in bra and brought colored hosiery to the forefront of fashion, shooting herself to superstar status. Like Chanel, she also created a legendary perfume line and has been a true gift to pop culture for decades.

Schiaparelli and Dali’s most iconic collaborations

(photo credit to Google images)

As our generation rapidly moves towards a new ‘20s, it would be remiss to not wonder what types of trends we will see in a decade that has historically been so beloved in pop culture. Everyone from haute couture designers to filmmakers adored the Art Deco aesthetic and have paid homage to the glamourous style of the era with revivals occurring frequently throughout the past 100 years. Chicago and The Great Gatsby gave us a glimpses of the period on the big screen and designers like Yves Saint Laurent, Galliano, and Diane von Furstenberg resurrected this aesthetic on the runway. We see the 1920s as an of idealized portrayal of youth, glamour, sexuality, and this romanticization has only been strengthened over time. To prepare for the new roaring ‘20s, search our collection for some Art Deco pieces that truly never go out of style! Here some of our favorites:

Celluloid, Bakelite, and Plastic: What Are They and How Are They Different?

By Paige McKirahan

You walk into Barney’s New York with the intention of accessorizing for a night on the town and come to find bangles of all colors. They’re beautiful, light, and handmade. You wonder how normal plastic could look so elegant and check the tag, realizing it is made of vintage bakelite. What is this gorgeous material?

Celluloid and bakelite are vintage jewelry staples often mistaken for the normal plastics that are usually casted to make jewelry. These materials are among some of the first man made plastics on the market. Celluloid predates bakelite and was created in an attempt to win a contest calling for someone to create a substitute for ivory in the 1860s. Though it did not win the contest, its creator, John Hyatt, chose to begin a manufacturing company that used the plastic to create billiard balls. The problem, though, was that the material was flammable; it would create small explosions on billiard tables if the balls knocked together! It also constantly sparked fires in hot projection rooms on movie sets when used to create movie film. To identify this plastic, you don’t need to wait for it to accidentally catch fire; the easiest way is to rub the piece vigorously and smell it. If it is real celluloid, it should smell similar to a ping pong ball.

Now, when Bakelite emerged on onto the scene in 1909, it made a sort of different explosion. It became wildly more popular than celluloid because of the simple fact that it didn’t quite literally explode and was more lightweight. When it first came into circulation, it was used primarily for industrial purposes until it started becoming available in a variety of colors. This inexpensive material then became a huge favorite of jewelry makers and differs from regular plastic jewelry as it is hand carved or polished into its design. You can check to see if your bakelite isn’t an imposter by using the 409 test. You dip a cotton swab in 409, the common household cleaner, and touch a small area of the piece. Be sure to touch a part of the jewelry that will not be seen! If it is true Bakelite, it will leave a yellow stain on the cotton swab.

As a collector or simply a jewelry lover, it pays to know if you have a piece made with one of these materials as their value has only increased over the past few decades. Authentic pieces can sell for thousands of dollars and are coveted by many in the collecting community. So now that you know the what and how on celluloid and bakelite, we invite you to pull out your vintage pieces and start testing!

The Laurenficiation of America

By Paige McKirahan

To celebrate the revival of Western wear this fall, it is important to recognize one of the fashion world’s most iconic designers that made Americana inspired pieces a staple in wardrobes across the globe. Can you guess who it is? We’ll give you a few hints: colorful polos, teddy bear motifs, and American flags. If you said Ralph Lauren, the creative mind behind his namesake brand, you guessed correctly! This year, the brand is celebrating its 50^th anniversary, marking half a century of trials, tribulations, and unmatched success.

(image credits to Vogue.com)

Ralph Lauren, born Ralph Lifshitz in 1939, is a Bronx native that studied business prior to his arrival to the fashion world. He began his long career as a designer and businessman during his secondary and post- secondary studies; he would upsell handmade ties to his peers and eventually became a neckwear salesman at Brooks Brothers. After he grew tired of selling others designs and being inspired by thicker European tie styles that contrasted the popular thin ties of the time, he attempted to persuade his employer to allow him to create and sell his own pieces. Upon Brooks Brothers refusal, he approached a multitude of other manufacturers before Beau Brummell, an upscale NYC neckwear boutique, eventually accepted his proposal in 1967. Lauren begin selling and creating pieces right from their Empire State building showroom with nothing but a single drawer to work out of.

His success in Beau Brummell prompted the expansion of his products into other small boutiques and eventually brought on a deal with Bloomingdales. Lauren decided to continue with this growth and came to the conclusion that it was time to form his own company; with the help of his brother Jerry and with support from Manhattan clothing manufacturer Norman Hilton, Polo Fashions, Inc. was born in 1968. The polo name was incorporated because of Lauren’s love for athletics and the style that came along with it, despite the fact that he himself had never participated in the sport. Four years after the brands conception, he decided to introduce what can be considered the label’s most iconic design: the short sleeved collared shirt with a polo pony on the chest. 

After the release of this cult classic, the brand grew substantially over the following decades and expanded into women’s wear, fragrances, and home goods. The name was changed in 1987 to the Polo/ Ralph Lauren Corporation and it was around that time that the rise of streetwear iconography took hold of some of the label’s most emblematic figures. When the brand released its first American Flag sweater in 1989, it prompted toy maker Stieff to gift Lauren with a teddy bear wearing a mini Polo outfit. He loved the bear so much that he began selling the it in stores and put its likeness on sweaters and shirts, a design that is still overwhelmingly popular in the streetwear community today. 

(image credits to highsnobiety.com)

 In 1993, Lauren decided to step away from ivy league style and walk a more rugged path with the creation of Double RL (RRL). Though he had country-inspired collections that preceded this new design channel, he wanted to create something completely separate that would allow to fully explore the vintage Western motif away from his parent brand. This sub-brand broke out of the constraints of the Polo aesthetic and its source of inspiration lied in the prairies with early 20^th century workwear. RRL, which is named after none other than the Lauren’s over 15,000-acre ranch in Colorado, includes a full line of shirts, denim, flannels, sweaters, jackets, and chinos that emulated the designer’s love for Americana in an entirely new light.

(image credits to heddels.com)

The brand’s commitment to recreating accurate representations of heritage is evident by its careful selection of fabrics, construction, and color. With the use of leather, fringe, and Navajo style patterns, he conveyed this vintage feel with ease. One of the true embodiments of Western workwear is blue denim; the denim line in this collection is coveted with each pair being cut and sewn from the meticulously created East-West denim, making the Slim Fit Selvedge Jean a fan favorite. The pant has a five pocket construction and can range from mid to low rise with a button fly and leather waist patch. A rare feature of this denim is that it offers three options for inseam- length, allowing buyers to choose their perfect fit.

Today, Ralph Lauren is still headquartered in New York with over $2 billion in annual revenue. The story of its creation is truly a rags to riches display of the American dream; he took his ideas from a small drawer in Manhattan to the drawers of clothing lovers all around the globe. Though Lauren himself is no longer the brand’s CEO, for 48 years he was the driving creative force behind his beloved fashion house that made the prep aesthetic a cornerstone in the fashion community. Let’s all be sure to pull on our boots and polos to commemorate this golden anniversary the right way and for a little more inspiration, head over to our collection to get 20% off Western styles for this weekend only!