Fashion Week Accessories and Jewelry review by James Hagerman

 

We were hit with New York Fashion Week. Then London, then Milan, and then Paris. Many designs were particularly eco-conscious this season. Across the board, collections showed more global awareness, whether it was based on high levels of diversity and inclusion on the runway, like Prabal Gurung’s “Who Gets to Be American?” show, or celebration of traditional cultures, like Niu Niu’s collection that highlights his Chinese heritage. Trends in jewelry and accessories also followed these artistic visions.

At talkingfashion, we love baubles, whimsical bijoux, and all things accessories. Many New York Fashion Week trends, like chain links, shells (again), oversized eyeglasses, boxy patterns, bags, and shoes arose as equally-trendy on the other side of the Atlantic. Here are some widespread designers who embodied trendy themes that definitely caught our eye!

 

Nature in the Streets

As we noted in our last blog post, designers at New York Fashion week flaunted shells, bright colors, and flower crowns in their pieces. On Valentino’s Parisian runway, feathers were tasseled onto shoe heels, belts, and bags, and attached to frilly dresses and loose tops, lifting models to new heights, and allowing them to look as if they were gliding across the runway. While many fabrics were angelically white, others were monochromatic, bright, and lush, featuring prints of various flora and fauna. On the more brightly colored pieces, gold earrings also featured colorful stones and some models donned tinted shades, creating a whirlwind of color and mystique. With a few of the brighter ensembles, longer necklaces and earrings included animal figurines.

 

(source: Vogue/Valentino show)

Nature was also placed on the forefront from the contrast it drew against streetwear fabrics in many shows, a notable one being Prada at Milan Fashion Week. Prada featured models clad in “Timeless hipness” according to Vogue; this “hipness” was accentuated by snakeskin and bucket bags (and hats), and gigantic shell necklaces and earrings. Vogue quotes Miuccia Prada herself, who completely represents our motto at talkingfashion when she stipulates that “personal style is more important than clothes.” Or, as whimsical fahion icon Iris Apfel says, “What’s my style is not your style.” The Prada designs this season looked affordable, more DIY, and mix-and-matched. There was an element of individuality that was brought out by the contrasting fabrics and the eccentricities in the accessories.

 

 

(Source: https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2020-ready-to-wear/prada/slideshow/collection#25 )

Outdoorsy bucket hats were also present in Dior’s Paris Fashion Week show, which was the most nature-infused runway this season. According to an Elle article on Dior’s sustainable, eco-friendly show, real trees from European nurseries bound for urban sustainability projects in Paris lined the runway. Dior’s show featured rope-tied sandals and belts, large beaded necklaces of wood and pearl, wicker hats, and foliated gold necklaces, chains, earrings, and brooches. The foliated gold added a level of leafy luster to the otherwise earth-tone outfits.

 

(Source: https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2020-ready-to-wear/christian-dior/slideshow/collection#10)

Stay Gold, Stay Metallic

There was so much gold on the runway this season!

Dior was not the only prominent designer to accessorize with gold this season. Gold accessories, such as gilded, bejeweled brows and asymmetrical dangling gold earrings, as well as chain-link lariats and figurines attached to gold hoops, evoked the sense of foliated leafiness that Dior’s designs created. Models walked with an ethereal, yet natural aura on Valentino’s runway. This kept perfectly in-line with the eco-conscious theme of Spring 2020 designs. 

 

 

(Source: https://www.crfashionbook.com/fashion/g28964083/best-accessories-springsummer-2020-fashion-week/?slide=18 )

Chloé at Paris Fashion Week also endowed their pieces with thick gold and metallic bands, chokers, and earrings. These designs oozed professional sophistication. Accessories were just enough to complete pieces and alter them with an imaginative pop without detracting from the rest of the ensemble. The rest of the pieces were quite simple, which allowed jewelry to stand out without taking on an overtly flashy presence. 

 

(Source: https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2020-ready-to-wear/chloe/slideshow/collection#25 )

A few of the chokers at Chloé’s show were chain-link, and this was a widespread trend for the 2020 Spring season. Sacai, Alyx, Chanel, and Rick Owens also mastered the chain-link look in chokers and other pieces of jewelry, like earrings.

(Source: https://www.vogue.com/article/the-top-jewelry-trends-of-spring-2020)

In Milan, Moschino’s thick gold-colored bracelets, earrings, and chain-link necklaces and belts added an effervescent shine to all of the colorful floral and Picasso-inspired printed fabrics. Many accessories were also inlaid with colorful jewels that matched the color of fabrics, turning models into literal works of art.

 

(Source: https://whoworewhatjewels.com/jewelry-details-from-moschino-and-prada-ss20-rtw-collections-from-milan-fashion-week/ )

Geometric Patterns

Chain link aside, there were many other shape-centric looks this season when it came to accessories. Polka dots and squares pervaded the runway, and in the case of Christopher Kane, accessories were actually part of the fabric! His “Eco-Sexual” collection is themed around “Making love in nature” and being “in touch with the earth” according to Vogue’s coverage. Metal spheres were embedded into the fabric of most of his pieces, and also attached elongated glass earrings. The industrial aspect of the geometric accessories contrasted with patterns on fabric to idealize coexistence between humanity and nature. 

(Source: https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2020-ready-to-wear/christopher-kane/slideshow/collection#18 )

Lanvin’s Paris show was also full of geometric patterns in its free-flowing, baggy fabrics. Some of these fabrics were brought back to earth with gold dangling, cubic necklaces and earrings, along with the occasional choker. Rigid jewelry pieces also allowed materials to flow even more, as large hoop earrings actually carried attachments of colorful patterned fabric. Hoops were another prevalent trend this season, finding their way into other collections, like Balmain, Marni, and Missoni.

(Source: https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2020-ready-to-wear/lanvin/slideshow/collection#9 )

Embracing Differences

Across many of these collections, a massively prevalent theme was contrast and juxtaposition. Christopher Kane’s “Eco-Sexual” collection is completely built around the concept of two different ideals converging (nature and human), as is Prada, which mixes and mismatches styles, fabrics, and accessory choices for each piece. Another collection that zeroed in on especially intricate juxtaposition was the designer Area, whose New York collection featured over-the-top strings of crystals on the face, shoulders, and ears, creating an opulent shell-like covering around models that encased frilly dresses in soft, pale hues. 

(Source: https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2020-ready-to-wear/area/slideshow/collection#7 )

What might be the biggest takeaway from this spring season is the idea that none of us need to conform (or match) with any patterns, structures, or ideas—we just need to embrace our own intuition! Every day is a chance to walk outside and become the person that you want to become by wearing what makes you feel brave, fearless, and completely yourself. We love seeing how designers are using fashion to create their own artistic vision, and we use this as inspiration for our own visions.

Established in 1986, talkingfashion Inc. is the umbrella company for luxboheme and artedellamoda brands. Our online store (www.talkingfashion.net) offers contemporary and vintage art and costume bijoux, statement pieces, and quality accessories. In addition to our online shop, we also provide personal styling, pop-up parties, and consignment. Our motto is “Wear what you love, every day,” and this is reflected through our eccentric, whimsical pieces that endure beyond typical trends and fast fashion. We believe in designs that encourage individuality and beauty through self-expression. 

 

Picturesque Pearls: A Style Guide

By Paige McKirahan

 

With wedding season well on its way, we wanted to take a look at one of our favorite elegant motifs in accessories for these upcoming warm weather months. Since pearls first made their way into the realm of jewelry, they have been the true symbol of class and superiority; seeing has how the pearl is the world's oldest gemstone with traces back to 420 BC, this elitist undertone has deep historical roots. In the Byzantine empire, for example, it was dictated that only the emperor was permitted to wear pearls with other societies having similar laws. Until the 20th century, pearls were considered to be one of the most valuable gems on the market all over the globe; prior to this time, all pearls were naturally found in wild mollusks, making them more rare and coveted than ever.

 

Oldest pearl necklace in existence on display at the Louvre (source)

 

In ancient Greek culture and at the height of the Roman Empire, pearls were worn on gowns, necklaces, and were even used to decorate furniture in wealthy households. It was even said that Cleopatra preferred pearl jewelry above all others, and she went as far as dissolving one of her most priceless pairs of pearl earrings in a glass of wine before drinking it! This ancient popularity led to pearls being extremely favorable with the monarchy; pearls of all shape and color varieties were widely sought after, and many were coming directly from the Persian Gulf. The 16th century in England was even referred to as the Pearl Age, perfectly reflecting the gemstone's prestige at the time.

 

Cleopatra Dissolving the Pearl in Wine, Andrea Casali (source)

 

In the Victorian Age, seed pearls became more favorable than any of their counterparts on account of the fact that their small size made them perfect for jewelry and other accessories. They are typically no larger than 2mm in diameter, and they were widely associated with pure ideals. Royal love of pearls continued for generations, with Queen Victoria having an affinity for all things pearl. Prince Albert gifted her a pair of drop-style pearl earrings in 1847, and these are now owned and proudly worn by the reigning monarch, Elizabeth II.

It wasn't until the late 1800s that pearls became a widely accessible material; in 1893, Kokicho Mikimoto discovered how to create cultured pearls, prompting the creation of over 350 pearl farms across Japan by 1935. This caused a widespread pearl mania that perfectly complemented contemporary culture all throughout the 1900s. From Coco Chanel's iconic 1936 portrait to Audrey Hepburn's emblematic look in Breakfast at Tiffany's, pearls became a true symbol of luxury. This sophisticated aesthetic shifted with Alber Elbaz at the helm of Lanvin, where he reimagined the gemstones as a "cool girl" motif rather than something you would find in your grandmother's jewelry box. He truly spun their reputation into something journalists felt were "not like your mother's pearls", and the gemstone has been present in haute couture ever since.

 

Coco Chanel and Audrey Hepburn in pearls (source)

 

Now that we know the history behind the eponymous stone, its time to evaluate the types of pearls. They can now be produced in a variety of different ways, with each having its own special set of characteristics! Whether they are natural or cultured, they are formed when a mollusk produces layers of nacre around molecules inside of the shell. The quality of the nacre is what controls the level of the pearls shine, which can cause it to decrease or increase in value. High-quality pearls should be smooth and blemish free, with shapes ranging from round to misshapen. Misshapen pearls are considered to be baroque, after the art movement. Lastly, a pearl set in necklaces can be uniform with all pearls at the same size, or graduated, meaning they change uniformly from the end to the center. With this education in mind, let's take a look at the specific types of pearls on the market!

 

(source)

Natural Pearls

Natural pearls are the rarest type, with many historically being found in the Persian Gulf. Though many have already been harvested, you may be able to purchase these small gemstones, but they will cost you a pretty penny!

Cultured Pearls

Cultured pearls are grown in farms, with the mollusks containing them being raised until they reach the point of being able to accept the mother-of-pearl bead nucleus. The pearl technician then implants the bead and returns the mollusk to water to form the gem. Not all cultured pearls are of high quality, and it can take tens of thousands of pearls to compile a group similar enough to use in jewelry.

Saltwater Pearls

Many countries grow cultured pearls in their saltwater seas. Japan and China produce cultured pearls that can range from 2 mm to 10mm in size, and are usually white in color. Australia, Indonesia, and the Philippines produce the largest of all cultured pearls. They are considered the "South Sea pearl" and can get up to 20 mm with colors ranging from white to cream to gold. There are also saltwater pearls grown in the islands of French Polynesia, with their sizes ranging from 8mm to 16mm. They can be naturally black, but they typically can be gray, blue, green, or purple.

Freshwater Pearls

Freshwater pearls mostly hail from China and are grown in lakes, rivers, and ponds all over the continent. Many are white and similar in size to Akoya pearls in size and shape, and usually, have a thicker nacre on account of them not having a bead nucleus.

Imitation Pearls

Imitation pearls usually have a high luster and are coated glass beads. You can tell these apart from cultured or natural pearls, but it may prove to be difficult based upon how the pearls were treated. For tips on how to analyze your pearls, click here!

We hope that this gave you a better insight into all things pearls! We now have a little bit of pearl mania and if you do too, be sure to check out our selection of pearl accessories!

 

Sources:

 

Festival Style: Coachella Essentials

By Paige McKirahan

 

As temperatures heat up and summer music begins to flood our all of our Spotify feeds, many have the season’s upcoming festivals on the mind. From Governor’s Ball to Lollapalooza, the warm weather also brings festival style that is wild, bohemian, and full of fashion forward aesthetics. In honor of Coachella, one of the most iconic annual festivals that the United States has to offer, we wanted to check out some of the best festival accessories that the industry has to offer! This musical event’s two weekends of fun make for many Instagrammable moments, so read on to see how we here at TalkingFashion would accessorize our festival fits to stand out in a sea of flower crowns!

Cool Sunglasses 

Stylish sunnies top our list as one of the most necessary festival accessories for reasons we feel are quite obvious. Protecting your eyes from the sun and accessorizing your festival fit to perfection can be done in one foul swoop using a great pair of cool girl frames. Never miss a moment of the fun blinded by the sun! 

Hands-Free Bags

Keeping track of all of your items in a large crowd of people may seem like a daunting task, but with the help of a hands-free bag, all of your stuff will be safe and secure! Carrying around a cross body bag is another great alternative, but with a fanny pack secured tightly around you waist, you’ll never have to worry about losing the bag itself along with all of its contents!

Western Motifs 

Western-inspired looks are extremely common at summer festival events, so why not participate in one of the season’s hottest trends and add a little western flair of your own into your festival fashion fits? Large belt buckles, cowboy hats, fringe, and turquoise are all easy ways to incorporate this cowboy aesthetic into any outfit without looking like you came right from an episode of West World!

Scarves, Scarves, and More Scarves

We have seen a huge headscarf revival this spring season, and we think that scarves are a great way to take any outfit to the next level in one easy step! Whether you choose to tie one around your neck or use one a way to keep your hair from flying in the Valley winds, a scarf is sure to be one of the “it” festival accessories for summer 2019.

Long Necklaces

When it comes to what jewelry compliments bohemian festival style the most, I always look for long, stackable necklaces to bring the heat! This style can make you look as if you an accessories aficionado without much effort and can offer a pop of color to a light, flowy fit.

What is your favorite festival accessory? If you love any of the ones above, click on the photo to buy just in time for festival season to go into full swing! Happy fest fun, TalkingFashion readers! Remember to wear what you love, everyday (and wear you best to Coachella Valley this weekend!)

Alexander McQueen: A Couturier's Timeline

By Paige McKirahan

 

 

It is very seldom that a designer steps into the fashion industry and stuns icons with such grace as Alexander McQueen. In celebration of his life, we have elected to spotlight this amazing fashion contributor as his day of birth is fast approaching. The couturier and fashion icon was born on the 17^th of March, 1969 in London as the youngest of six siblings. After leaving school at the young age of 16 to pursue apprenticeships with a variety of high-profile tailors like Gieves and Hawkes that were masters of technical clothing construction. This experience was followed by time with Angels and Bermans, where he mastered a variety of pattern cutting techniques, including the razor-sharp style that has become synonymous with the McQueen brand. After this transformative stint, he became employed by tailor and designer Koji Tatsuno for close to a year before he traveled to Milan to be Romeo Gigli’s design assistant. During these apprenticeships, he also attended the Rosetta Art Centre, where he received a recommendation from Yvonne Humble that sent him on to the MA fashion course at Central Saint Martins College of Art and Design. The skills that he learned during his time in these positions quickly earned him a high-class reputation in the industry as a designer with an affinity for flawlessly tailored designs.

This reputation was carried with him to St. Martins, where he was encouraged by the head of his course there to enroll as a student and receive a master's degree in fashion. He went on to do just that, and his 1992 graduate collection was so emblematic that the iconic stylist Isabella Blow famously purchased it in its entirety. Blow became a sort of mentor to McQueen, using her contacts and industry expertise to help launch his career. It was even rumored that she influenced his choice to go after his middle name, Alexander, when he finally had his big break.

 

McQueen and Blow (source)

During this time, McQueen grew as an artist with other designers in Hoxton, where he designed his second collection that led him to his "right hand woman", Katy England. England was appointed the creative director of Mcqueen's third collection and continued working with him from then on, being his "second opinion" on all of his major works. Following these collections, he then moved on to create the wardrobe for David Bowie's 1996-1997, which opened the door to a plethora of high-profile celebrity collaborations with icons like Bjork, Robert Lepage, Sylvie Guillem, and Russell Maliphant.

 

McQueen for David Bowie (source)

Through the end of the 90s and the beginning of the 2000s, McQueen built a reputation around his shocking runway displays; his lavish and unconventional style was like nothing the industry had ever seen, incorporating things like holograms and shipwreck scenes into his shows. He became one of the runway frontrunners, being credited with adding tur extravagance and drama to fashion. One of the most dramatic shows in of his career was for Spring/ Summer 2001 displaying a collection dubbed "VOSS". The centerpiece of the show was a class box based upon Sanitarium by Joel Peter Witkin; the box was unlit, making the reflections on the walls seem like large mirrors reflecting the audience's images back to them for over an hour. When the show finally began, the box became lit to reveal a gaggle of moths and a naked Michelle Olley relaxed on a chaise lounge wearing only a gas mask.

 

A photo from the VOSS show, 2001 (source)

In 1996, Mcqueen was appointed to chief designer at Givenchy, where he worked until 2001. Prior to this departure, he formed a partnership with the Gucci Group and they acquired 51% of his company in 2000. He remained as the creative director until his death, and this new ownership allowed his label to globally expand. He created men and women's ready-to-wear collections, accessories, eyewear, and a variety of fragrances that were available in boutiques all over the world at the conclusion of 2007. He remained at the top of the industry until his untimely passing in 2010, two days prior to the start of London Fashion Week. He still holds his title as one of the most iconic courtiers of all time and has received high honors including "British Designer of the Year" (1996 & 2003) and "International Designer of the Year" (2003). His brand continues to produce stunning collections and the McQueen legacy will live on longer than the industry itself.

Sources:

Presidents Day’s Presidential Jewels

 By Paige McKirahan

As the shortest month of the year with the most to celebrate, February is chock full of fun events worth commemorating. From fashion week to Valentine’s Day to Black History Month, it is easy to get lost in the sea of dedications and themed sale emails flooding your inbox. One of the biggest sale holidays of the year just so happens to occur during this festive month, and is approaching fast on the 18^th! Presidents Day, which is a federal holiday set to honor America’s long line of presidents, is more than just a day off of work perfectly suited for shopping.

At its conception, the holiday was originally designated to recognize George Washington’s birthday on February 22^nd, 1732; when it was first initiated in 1879, it was only to be observed by Washington D.C. federal offices. Then, in 1885, it expanded to include all federal offices and established itself as the first holiday formed to celebrate a president. Though it once was celebrated on Washington’s exact birthday, the date has been changed to always fall on the third Monday in February and now aims to honor all presidents throughout history.

Early President's Day Posting (source)

In addition to the celebration of our country's leaders, Presidents Day is also used as an opportunity to award those qualifying with a Purple Heart military medal. Revived on Washington’s 200th birthday in 1932, this prestigious award is commonly given out on the holiday at both the federal level and at individual military posts.

In terms of executive- inspired accessories, the most common presidential motifs are primarily seen on coins integrated into a piece's design. Coins are versatile, malleable, and easily accessible so incorporating them into accessories and jewelry has been a long standing practice not only in the United States, but all over the world. From belts to bracelets, coins offer an easy way to show your patriotism while keeping it fashion forward. For more coin accessories, check out our collections and honor our country's rich history in style! For more presidential pieces, head over to the National Archives store to shop and support National Archives exhibits!

Sources:

AncestralFindings.comWill Moneymaker founded Ancestral Findings back in 1995. He has been involved in genealogy research for over 20 years. The thrill of the hunt. “The History of Presidents Day.” Ancestral Findings, 5 Mar. 2018, ancestralfindings.com/presidents-day/.