The 1990s: The Battle of Street Style and Minimalism

By Paige McKirahan

Taking the crown as one of my favorite decades, the 1990s signified a transition from ‘80s garish to new age minimalism. Though it is difficult to assess the history of a fashion that seems as if it is still in style, there are some trends that aren’t as prominent as they once were (thankfully). In a time were technology was advancing at a higher pace than ever, it truly seems as if this decade is the beginning of modern society. Yes, we have seen an influence from Hollywood for decades, but pop culture affected fashion in an entirely new way during this period with the rise of boy bands, pop-stars, R&B, and the supermodel era.

Though ‘90s clothing still found inspiration in ‘80s silhouettes, it was the first to instigate a ‘60s revival. Loose and oversized styles remained while being complimented by mini-skirts, mini dresses, and tighter styles. Space age aesthetics reigned as white tones, metallic, and references to cosmology were widely popularized. Similar to the ‘60s, this decade saw a division of styles come into circulation and the two main groups can be roughly separated into street style and elegant minimalism. The ladder included a colorless palette with silky, leathery, and velvety fabrics. Silhouettes were linear and simple boasting a relatively neutral color palette. Looking “rich” became cool again and the popularity of name brand designers was restored. They followed the shape of the ideal body which was, at the time, slim and toned. Need help visualizing this aesthetic? Reflect back to ‘90s Calvin Klein or Armani.

Kate Moss in ‘90s Calvin Klein

(photo credit to pinterest.com)

Street style was absolutely the opposite. Garnering influence from sports and hip hop, this was a trend that had attitude and a sense of boldness never seen before. MTV could be seen on every television and artist’s laid back styles gave copious amounts of inspiration for streetwear lovers. It was oversized, sporty, and relaxed, boasting large t-shirts with bold prints as the center of attention. Women also loved crop tops and loose fitting, high waisted jeans. Bomber jackets and boots, especially Timberlands, could be seen on rappers and young women alike. This style loved denim, and also used hints of leather and fleece to make oversized sweaters more comfortable than ever. The ‘90s were the first decade where sneakers came into their own, shooting themselves to high fashion status; Vans, Converse, Nikes (especially ones endorsed by athletes), Reeboks, Jordans, and New Balances could be seen on even those most well versed in fashion.

Tyra Banks ‘90s street style

(image credits to pinterest.com)

Preppy and grunge aesthetics reigned along with street style as movie stars and musicians were the driving force behind stylistic choices. Loved by affluent teenagers, preppy style was inspired by Clueless and Ivy League trends. Blazers, polos, all things Ralph Lauren, and plaid was worn everywhere; mini-skirts, crop tops, and everything in between could be seen covered in bright colors or with preppy motifs. Leisure style for this trend included denim overalls, which are loved by all style communities in this decade.

Grunge, on the other hand, finds in inspiration for its vision in bands like Nirvana and actress Drew Barrymore. Those that were interested in this style have similar taste to punk lovers of the ‘70s, but in a more subdued manner. These wardrobes included an assortment of jackets, sweaters, skirts, and footwear with a worn in look that made it hard for couture designers to have successful collections in this aesthetic.

Kurt Cobain in grunge style

(image credit to retrowaste.com)

Jewelry trends in the 90s moved away from the flashiness of the ‘80s and had a more minimal aesthetic. Swatch watches, slap bracelets, anklets, toe rings, and puka shell necklaces all were beloved accessories in this decade. Chokers were a youthful favorite that have been revived in the late 2010s, and scrunchies have made a comeback as bracelets at the beginning of this year! Tiny sunglasses in an endless supply of bright colors also moved away from the huge specs loved by the ‘80s and ‘70s.

Lucite was a popular material and was commonly used to make chunky rings in bright colors, among other jewelry styles. Celestial motifs, smiley faces, peace signs, and ying-yang icons adorned pieces and gave use a sense of ‘60s nostalgia. Name plate necklaces a la Carrie Bradshaw are just as trendy now as they were then along with hoop earrings of all sizes. This decade also loved the use of crystals and gems in their jewelry, especially if they were color changing depending on your mood.

A mere 20 years ago when all of these trends burst onto the scene, no one could have anticipated their overwhelming popularity in the 2010’s. If you’re loving this ‘90s revival as much as I am, head on over to our collections so you can own some hoops and chokers of your own!

Throughout the 19th century and into the 20th, a tidal wave hit the art world that changed the composition of style across every creative medium. Art forms ranging from architecture, graphics, interior design, jewelry, and textiles became embraced and revitalized by the newest trend: Art Nouveau. The term, which means “new art” in French, represents the break away from traditional ideals of the time and signifies the birth of a new, cutting edge aesthetic that would change the art world forever.

The Victorian era, which spans from the 1830s to around 1890, is marked by Queen Victoria’s reign and preceded the Art Nouveau period. It signified a move away from the romantic styles of dress and instead, tight fitting bodices, corsets, and pleats became the “it” trends of the time. Hourglass silhouettes were highly desired and to achieve this sometimes deadly look, layers of petticoats and corsets were combined to cinch waists and create a symbol of status. Accessory wise, bonnets tended to be the headpiece of choice along with headpieces made of ornate artificial flowers. Subdued, lighter shades were typically used in all mediums and this choice aligned with the public’s perception of women to be soft and meek creatures.

The 1850s signified a move away from dome shaped skirts and petticoats and instead progressed toward tapered and flared skirts that helped exaggerate waistlines even more than before. Crinoline, which is a stiff fabric made of woven horsehair, was used to add volume to skirts; it was expensive and difficult to clean, making it hard for middle class women to fully adopt the trend. Then, hoop skirts were introduced. These skirts used cages and crinoline to create a more economical and light weight option that allowed women of all classes to sport huge, voluminous skirts. Prior to this creation, women had limited movement in their clothing as layers of petticoats made it difficult to walk and sit. This trend became so popular that two New York factories produced over 3,000 cages a day, making the cage skirt a staple of Victorian era fashion.

Crinoline Cage Skirt

(image credits to bellatory.com)

The industrial revolution brought a multitude of new technologies that transformed the world of fashion and jewelry as the sewing machine and synthetic dyes allowed clothing to be produced quickly and cheaply. Charles Worth, a Parisian clothing designer, took advantage of this and began creating costumes for European royalty in 1860. His work was so influential he is considered to the Father of Haute Couture! Later in the decade, he introduced the over skirt. This gave women another way to add fullness in the rear and it combined with the revitalization of the bustle birthed a new look entirely. Fullness was seen in the back of the of skirts rather than all the way around and narrow shoulders, tiny waists, and wide hips were on trend in a big way in the 1880s.

Victorian Dress with bustle and overskirt

(image credits to bellatory.com)

Many people did not welcome these changes though, and those who followed the Aesthetic Movement longed for simpler looks. Instead of adopting the stiff and ornate styles of dress popularized in this era, these folk wore garments that were without structure and created by hand. Synthetic dyes and sewing machines were not used and instead, pieces were hand dyed and embroidered featuring nature oriented motifs.

The jewelry of the era started off subtle and evolved with industrial and societal changes. At the beginning of the Queen’s reign, jewelry was romantic as it was when she was first engaged then married to Prince Albert. Her engagement ring was an emerald-eyed snake eating its own tail; this design, symbolizing eternal love, prompted the popularity of snake motifs in pieces of this time. Florals, gold, and glistening bright gemstones were commonly used and conveyed love, good fortune, and economic growth.  Dark mourning jewelry then became widely popularized by Queen Victoria’s decades of grief over the death of her husband (for more info on mourning jewelry, head to https://talkingfashion.net/blogs/news/mourning-jewelry-momento-mori-s-through-time !!) The revival of older styles also was found in this period as travel and the exploration of ancient sites prompted imitations of Renaissance, Egyptian, and Etruscan designs to recirculate. Towards the end of the era, equestrian jewelry and the choker (which we have seen become popular time and time again), also became popularized by Victoria’s children as her taste was eclipsed by younger generations.

The Art Nouveau style truly came into its own between 1890 and 1914. In this era, clothing became a sort of decorative art rather than a boisterous and controlled representation of wealth and style; corsets and bustles were out and liberation was in. It challenged the idea of classical dress by welcoming flamboyance and breaking away from the strictness of the previous period. This was the first time gender norms were truly challenged and women were presented in everything from suits to seductive lingerie.

Champenois Imprimeur-Éditeur by Alponse Mucha, 1897. This was a piece became a sort of icon for the movement

(image credits to theluxecafe.com)

The look that this era brought was cutting edge and many wore it in moderation, leaving the more ornate and couture pieces for those of high status. Long, organic lines and moderate, darker colors such as mustard yellow, dark red, olive brown, violet, and blue were widely used to create asymmetrical styles. Many designs were inspired by nature (similar those in the Aesthetic Movement) and used softer fabrics such as charmeuse, chiffon, and batiste. Paul Poiret was an iconic designer of the time and he along with a multitude of other French couturiers fully immersed themselves in this art form, spreading the style thought international fashion journals such as Les Modes down to fashion magazines like The Ladies Field. The involvement of artists Vincent Van Gogh and Alphonse Mucha, glass and jewelry maker Louis Comfort Tiffany, and illustrator Aubrey Beardsley also influenced the looks of the time immensely as their iconic styles encompassed the aesthetic shift of the era.

Art Nouveau jewelry was woman centric and loved to explore nature and sexuality, which had never previously been done. Many pieces were large and splendorous, and the focus was less on material and more on design. They were widely made of enamel and used the translucent plique-à-jour enamel, which gave pieces a sort of “stained glass” look. Horn and ivory was heated, carved, and bent to create pieces and diamonds were seldom used for anything other as an accent stone. Leading designers of this period included Louis Comfort Tiffany and Rene Lalique, who was a huge fan of the nature motif. As much of this jewelry was made of enamel, it means pieces in good condition are rare and highly sought after. Those that are in good condition can be worth a pretty penny; a Lalique pendent from this era sold for $212,500, more than double its highest estimate, in 2015.  

Art Nouveau pieces

(image credits to farlang.com)

As many prominent trends are, Art Nouveau was and has been revived many times throughout history. Anna Sui is a lover of Art Nouveau and her bohemian prints are reminiscent of the movement’s colors and design. Prada dabbled in with the style in the 1960s and experiments with flowing, Nouveau inspired silhouettes. Alberta Ferretti has also been influenced by the movement on multiple occasions, most specifically in his Spring/ Summer 2013 collection and his at Pre-Fall 2016 presentation.

Anna Sui design compared to Art Nouveau print

(images credit to theluxecafe.com)

If you want to recreate the iconic styles of these eras, we encourage you to head over to our collection and be sure to search “Art Nouveau” or “Victorian” to see how you can begin a revival all on your own!