The Return of the ‘80s: Fall Fashion
by Paige McKirahan

Yes, you read that correctly. As one of the most questionable, yet daring decades’ fashions are coming back in style, it is hard to wonder how to make such wild aesthetics chic again in a time where minimalism seems to reign. Well, wonder not, fashion lovers; our favorite designers have already set the guidelines for this fall ‘80s revival at fashion week this past spring.

Bold and dramatic looks with intense cheek contouring, electric neons, wild animal prints, and shoulder pads are making a bold return to runways, fighting the ‘90s revival that has taken reign in the past few years. Voluminous pieces and sequins ran free in Halpern’s fall 2018 show, while Saint Laurent and Gareth Puch loved the shoulder pad look for their collections. 

From first to last: Halpern, Garath Puch, and Saint Laurent looks from NYFW Fall 2018

If you’re baffled by this trend, you’re not alone; all major news outlets are discussing this fascination with styles of decades’ past. The New York Times, The Huffington Post, and Vogue alike are trying to decipher the reasoning behind the popularization of fashions that seemed like they were in the archives for good. But, here is the secret that is being told as fashion evolves and we see vintage style prevail: generations of consumers that don’t experience decades in person, want to experience the clothing that was previously popular in the now. Embracing the muchness of the decade, millennials and Gen Z’ers wear this aesthetic with feelings of ironic joy while their parents look on with a sort of conflicting amusement. I say that the resurgence of these flamboyant silhouettes is for anyone, so dig in your closet (or in our collection!) for some old school pieces and prepare for fashion time travel to an era where bigger was always better.

NYFW Spotlight: Anna Sui’s Star-Studded Dreamworld

By Paige McKirahan

Welcome back to our NYFW spotlight, style enthusiasts! Today, we have decided to take a look at the vibrant collection from Anna Sui as she takes us on a bohemian adventure inspired by flea market chic. Taking note from the 1955 film “Kismet”, Sui tells that she was influenced by a scene in the movie where they were moving through a brightly colored marketplace; the designer explains that she is a flea market aficionado and seeks them out in every city that she travels to. She wanted to emulate that escapist fantasy and did so beautifully with these pieces as she gave us a wanderlust aesthetic that was hard to look away from.

A screengrab from Kismet

(photo credit to Google Images)

For this marvelous collection, Sui chose to use vibrant colors and daring patterns with a variety of loose, easy silhouettes that popped against the neutral gold set. Many looks were made of silk and featured shorts, loose fitting pants, glittery dresses, satin shirts, and Polynesian jumpsuits. Finished in fish scale sequins and fringe, the collection was completed with head scarves, flatform sandals, and long, chunky necklaces. This market fashion grabbed the attention of some of big names with filmmaker Francis Ford Coppola, his daughter Sofia Coppola, and queen Naomi Campbell all seated in the front row. The crowd wasn’t the only place where faces could be so easily recognized; the Hadid sisters, Kaia Gerber, and Taylor Hill all strutted down the runway, displaying this collection with fierce elegance. Here are a few of our favorites from the show. What do you think- marketplace magnificence or flea market faux pas?

(photo credit to thewashingtonpost.com)

Fashion’s Favorite Week Returns

By Paige McKirahan

Hello fashionistas! As you may know (or we would hope so, anyway), New York Fashion Week has finally returned to give us an inside look at this upcoming spring and summer’s hottest trends. Beginning on September 5^th, these seven days of glamour attract buyers, press, and pop culture phenomena to the streets of New York with the goal of celebrating designers in prestige and style. 

NYFW, which began in 1943, was created by Eleanor Lambert, a press director for the New York Dress Institute. At this time, you wouldn’t see your favorite actress or singer in the front row; what was formerly known as “Press Week” was truly only open to the press, with no buyers or industry figures permitted. She created the event to pull the public’s attention away from the fact that they were unable to travel to Paris to view shows during the second World War and hopefully shift focus to American designs. The event saw huge success and lead to publications like Vogue being more open to discussions of American creations more than ever before.

Eleanor Lambert at the first NYFW

(photo credits to guestofaguest.com)

In the mid 1950s, the name of the event was changed to “The Press Week of New York” and shows were held all over the city in venues of the designer’s choice. After that method proved to be disastrous (i.e. Michael Kors model’s getting hit with falling pieces of ceiling. Ouch!), the head of the Council of Fashion Designers of America, Fern Mallis, moved all of the shows into white tents in Bryant Park. After that change in 1993, the name of NYFW was changed to “7^th on 6^th” after the event company that was founded by CFDA. 8 years later, IMG bought the event and officially renamed it New York Fashion Week. Mercedes-Benz, the current sponsor of the shows, has been supporting the Week since 2007, and the event grew so large that white tents in Bryant Park could no longer accommodate all of the insiders dying to gain access to these shows. The event was then held in Lincoln Center until 2014, then the skylights at Moynihan Station and Clarkson Square up until its arrival at the current venue.

Bryant Park during Fashion Week c. 1998

(Image credit to nytimes.com)

This year, the shows are being held in galleries at Spring Studios on Varick Street and many designers choose to utilize this space. In contrast, many also choose to have their events at more original venues outside of the IMG umbrella, like the John Elliot Co. show that could be seen at Pier 62 Skate park. Though Elliot put on a fabulous display, we were looking to spotlight a designer that is the true epitome of fabulousness: Jeremy Scott. 

Scott’s SS ’19 show was a playful look back at Jeremy in his early teens; the designer reminisced to his star studded audience about the fact that he most literally does not throw anything away and hasn’t since he was around 13 years old. He recalled that at that age, he once threw away a shirt he though he didn’t like anymore, regretting it only days later. That anguish prompted him to keep everything from that point on, creating a personal collection and style that was beautifully emulated in this NYFW display.

For this show, the designer ultimately looked inward for inspiration; as his own muse, he reflected on all the years that he was designing his own clothing and looks with no one to practice them on but himself. Polaroid’s of an adolescent Scott adorned pieces in the collection along with sequins, crystals, and 3D embroideries reading “RIOT”, “PEACE”,”SEX”, and “SHOCK”. His classic 1990s aesthetics were refined on an entirely new level than his previous work; his polishing in the leather and sport mesh pieces is sophisticated despite their youthful inspiration. Though he makes overt political statements with his weird and in-your-face style, it has a sense of refinement that allows his influence to truly shine through.

Here are some of our favorite looks from the show. What do you think—fab or drab?

 Spring 2019 Ready to Wear Jeremy Scott 

(Photo credits to vogue.com)

Take a note from Jeremy and be unapologetically yourself in the most brazen, emphatic way. Who better to be a muse for your creative expression than yourself?

Be sure to keep an eye on our blog over the next week as we will be spotlighting our other favorite Fashion Week shows and designers! To watch the magic happen on the runway in real time, head over to http://nyfw.com/live to view NYFW’s personal livestream!

Art Deco and the Birth of Glamour

by Paige McKirahan

In a time when the stock market followed the length of lady’s skirts, a new era of art and fashion urged us away from the soft tightness of Art Nouveau and marked the beginning of bigger experimentation within these mediums. This new movement, affectionately known as the Art Deco era, spanned from the ‘20s to the mid ‘30s and brought airy silhouettes, abstraction, and fantasy to the forefront at the conclusion of World War I in 1918. After women took up hard physical work in the absence of men, they had no interest in returning to the constrictive lifestyle guidelines they once were forced to adhere to. The ‘20s became an age of financial prosperity and luxury aesthetics, with the youthful generation taking hold of post war society and creating a type of culture that prompted innovation and celebrated eccentricity.

As the economy grew, hemlines slowly climbed; by 1919, we saw skirt lengths hit mid-calf and they continued creeping up to hit the knee in 1925. During this time, dress forms moved to a more semi- fitted silhouette with dropped waists, starkly contrasting the corseted, high-waisted style of the preceding era. Up to this point, fashion had never seen a silhouette of this type and it allowed designers to innovate with new methods of seaming, draping, beading, and fabric use. Menswear and sportswear busted onto the scene and opened the door for the use of knits, leather, and rayon, all of which became important materials of the time. Of course, as we all know, this is the era of the flapper; this short lived phenomenon was a physical embodiment of glamour and the rejection of societal norms popularized in what is referred to as the Jazz Age.

Dresses by Coco Chanel c. 1925

(photo credit to langantiques.com) 

Though Art Deco does continue with the 20^th centuries’ celebration of the female figure, it takes a more sensuous approach with semi- abstract depictions of the body. Contemporary artistic movements such as cubism and futurism seeped into clothing design, favoring the styles’ interests in technological and geometric structures. This age also found inspiration in industrial landscapes with metallic color palettes and clean lines. Aside from the modern influence of the time, jewelry and clothing also found inspiration in archeological discoveries in Egypt; design motifs including pyramids, lotus blossoms, scarabs, and anything to do with ancient pharaohs became enormously popular along with Indian, Persian, and Chinese aesthetics.

 Art Deco jewelry played with the geometric and industrial based trademarks of the movement and there were essentially two major schools of jewelry design: bijoutiers-artises and bijoutiers- joailliers. The former emphasized design over monetary value and the ladder used more precious materials to outline designs and compliment diamonds, prioritizing glamour over construction. Gold began to lose its popularity as platinum and its cheaper substitute, osimor, came into circulation as it was strong and required less metal to securely hold gems. Earrings had sharp corners and were feminine, accessorizing shorter hairstyles that were popularized in the ‘20s and ‘30s. Necklace lengths became longer in order to compliment shorter hemlines and deeper necklines, commonly featuring geometric pendants or tassels. Pearl necklaces were also a staple as the production of cultured pearls allowed them to be created in mass quantities. Popular jewelry materials of the time included a variety of synthetic plastics, such as bakelite, and other wares that could imitate gemstones, bone, and other expensive natural materials.

Art Deco Cartier Necklace c. 1929

(photo credit to langantiques.com)

Though fashion had to be rationed in the 1930s when the stock market crashed, jewelry arts seemed to continue to thrive and were revolutionized to become the focal points of outfits as buying and creating new clothing was not a priority. Large brooches, flashy ear clips, thick bracelets, and ornate dress clips were adorned with gemstones and diamonds in an almost theatrical way, allowing women of the time to create endless looks despite their limited wardrobes.

The key designers of this period, Coco Chanel and Elsa Schiaparelli, were well known rivals and fashion icons. Lovers of art and glamour, they are cornerstones in this new revolution of women’s style and created pieces that are still discussed in modern times. Chanel began her career in fashion in the early 1900s, but truly became a household name when she launched Chanel No. 5 in the early ‘20s. Then, in 1925, she released the now emblematic Chanel suit; the collarless jacket and well fitted skirt borrowed motifs from menswear and allowed women to move away from confining garments and into a new realm of comfort and freedom. Her little black dress design also was also revolutionary because it framed black as something that could be glamorous rather than a color used for mourning. Her bag designs were in a league of their own, being some of the first to incorporate shoulder straps and her classic double C logo. These Chanel pieces have endured for almost a century and have been seen in some of the most historically significant moments of all time (think Jackie O’s pink Chanel suit!).

Chanel’s iconic suit and little black dress worn by none other than Audrey Hepburn

 (image credit to Google images)

Elsa Schiaparelli was a couture- minded designer who found most of her inspiration from artists of the era. She was a nonconformist, using eclectic and unique aesthetics to create clothing that were art pieces in their own right. She collaborated with artists frequently and Salvador Dali became her creator of choice as his surrealist tone complimented her outrageous taste. They created designs that are still coveted in both the fashion and art worlds and they can be seen in The Met where they celebrate her genius in their costume institute. She truly emerged into fashion when she presented her first collection of sweaters in 1927; the designs featured geometric shapes and were hand knit in her apartment in Paris. The groundbreaking couturiere then began using visible zippers in her pieces, which was unheard of at the time being a fairly new invention. She created a swimsuit with a built in bra and brought colored hosiery to the forefront of fashion, shooting herself to superstar status. Like Chanel, she also created a legendary perfume line and has been a true gift to pop culture for decades.

Schiaparelli and Dali’s most iconic collaborations

(photo credit to Google images)

As our generation rapidly moves towards a new ‘20s, it would be remiss to not wonder what types of trends we will see in a decade that has historically been so beloved in pop culture. Everyone from haute couture designers to filmmakers adored the Art Deco aesthetic and have paid homage to the glamourous style of the era with revivals occurring frequently throughout the past 100 years. Chicago and The Great Gatsby gave us a glimpses of the period on the big screen and designers like Yves Saint Laurent, Galliano, and Diane von Furstenberg resurrected this aesthetic on the runway. We see the 1920s as an of idealized portrayal of youth, glamour, sexuality, and this romanticization has only been strengthened over time. To prepare for the new roaring ‘20s, search our collection for some Art Deco pieces that truly never go out of style! Here some of our favorites: