Fashion and Travels: English Hat Heaven

By Paige McKirahan 

All over the world, hats have seen their popularity and overall style fluctuate with market and consumer interest. One country that seems to be still be at the helm of the headwear frenzy after years of iconic hat moments is the United Kingdom. From the bowler to the fascinator, the British infatuation with all things hats has traditional roots that date back centuries. As a nation of self-proclaimed hat wearers, the accessory has been pivotal in defining class, gender, and occupation throughout for centuries. Long have they been associated with symbolic meaning, hats have seen a resurgence of popularity after the most recent Royal weddings have placed a spotlight back on millinery in a big way. 

The flat cap, which is one of England’s most iconic styles, can be traced all the way back to medieval times and became a subject of Tudor laws. An act of Parliament was even instituted stating that all males over the age of six had to wear a wool cap on Sundays and holidays; this became a requirement in 1571 and there was even a fine in place if they did not comply! The flat cap then became an icon of working class culture in the following centuries and prompted the birth of the bowler. Conceived in the Victorian Age, this style was a staple in the closet of the businessman after its practical construction quickly caught the eye of the public. There are many iconic wearers of this style like Liza Minelli and John Steed, but no one immortalized the bowler quite like Charlie Chaplin did when he made it a part of his famous ensemble!

Charlie Chaplin in a bowler (source)

The deerstalker is another essential British hat design that was made most popular by Sherlock Holmes. As the cornerstone of a Victorian gentleman’s hunting attire, this hat was not created for daily wear in the city and moving towards the Edwardian era, we saw millinery become widely prevalent in hat making. Designs became more elaborate and commonly featured decorative items like lace, birds, flowers, bows, and artificial fruits. Their grand design required the use of hatpins in order to secure their stance on the head, and they allowed women to sport their fabulous headwear even when they were out campaigning for women’s right to vote!

Moving into the 1940s, we saw the rise of the headscarf turban hat as women needed them to ensure their long hair would not get caught in machinery while working in factories. This turban style was a symbol of the war effort and lead to hats becoming an essential piece in the resurgence of Parisian haute couture. Though it seemed that hats would remain a classic accessory at this time, the rise of car ownership in the 1960s denounced the need for lavish headwear or utilitarian hats as they were no longer needed for weather protection or class demarcations.

A turban hat in action (source)

In the past decade, this British love for hat wearing has been revived with a new generation of Royals. Royal headgear has always been a staple in English culture, and thanks to the wedding of Prince William and Duchess Kate paired with the 300^th anniversary of the Ascot races, the hat’s classic status has been restored. Rachel Trevor-Morgan, who has been milliner to the Queen since 2006, has created hats for a multitude of royal events including The Queen’s 80^th birthday Service of Thanksgiving at St. Pauls and her Diamond Wedding Celebration. This amazing designer credits the Duchess of Cambridge to be a pioneer in hat wearing that will inspire wearers for years to come. Since her wedding, the Stockport Hat Works Museum, which is the only of its kind in the country, is peaking in popularity with their attendee’s headwear use even steadily increasing.

One hat-maker seeing great success is Piers Atkinson; his background working with Zandra Rhodes formed his eccentric style that can be seen on the pages of pivotal publications ranging from Italian Vogue to Tatler. His kitschy, eye-catching designs have been seen on the heads of Kate Moss and Dame Shirley Bassey, establishing himself as a classic contemporary designer with traditional techniques to match. Fred Butler is also seeing similar popularity with her hand-crafted pieces; as the granddaughter of a milliner, she has hat making in her genes and her skilled techniques are loved by the likes of Bjork and Lady Gaga. Hats off to Britain for having such a rich hat history, and we can’t wait to see how their style evolves over the next century!

Piers Atkinson Design (source)

Sources:

Magazine, B. (2013, June 17). History of hats. Retrieved from http://www.britain-magazine.com/features/history-of-hats/

Fashion Flashback: The Hot History of Hats

By Paige McKirahan

To continue on with our historical evaluation behind some of the most iconic accessories of all time, it would only be appropriate to reflect on how hats came to be in celebration of Hat Day!  Whether they be worn for fashion, protection, ceremonies, rituals, or utilitarian purposes, these head coverings have been a staple in the industry for thousands of years. Of course, this long history starts in ancient Egypt; one of the first images depicting a hat can be found in Thebes tomb and this illustration shows a man wearing a conical straw hat. They also first appeared in an early illustration of Pileus which depicted him wearing a simple small cap.

Ancient Egyptian Headwear (source)

In this time and throughout history, one of the most popular materials for hats is felt. The ancient Egyptians and Native Americans first discovered this material when they discovered that camel hair, when compacted into the floors of their sandals, contributes to the creation of this material. St. Clement, the patron saint of felt hat makers, was said to encounter the material in a similar fashion after filling his shoes with flax fibers.

In these ancient times, hats were generally worn either to signify high status or for protection from the elements. In Ancient Rome and Greece, Phrygian caps also referred to as Liberty caps, were used as symbols of freedom for exonerated slaves. The first brimmed caps were found in Ancient Greece and were worn by those seeking to protect themselves from the sun, typically those working in fields or in construction.

As headwear began to evolve, gendered styles came into play during the Middle Ages; women were wearing a variety of new head covering designs ranging from veils to wimples. Later in those years, women’s hats transformed into elaborate displays of wealth that sometimes featured two horn-like decorations or conical shapes.

Middle Ages Hat Styles (source) 

The 18^th century birthed newer designs created by milliners; the term was created to describe products made in Milan and other Northern Italian regions that were made with high-quality materials. One of the most popular hats of this time was the Shepherdess hat, which featured a large, sun-blocking brim. Bonnets were as popular women’s in fashion as top hats were for men, and both were made from silk at the time. Silk top hats were so popular and awe-inspiring that a man wearing once caused such a stir in the streets he earned himself a 500 dollar fine from inciting panic!

In the following century, hat’s widespread popularity began to rise and was considered to be very fashionable as more designs become available. Women’s hats started growing in size and opulence with many including feather details, circular constructions, and varying brim styles. Brim sizes saw a decrease with the introduction of the parasol umbrella, and then grew again as the 20^th century grew closer. Hats also began adapting to popular hairstyles, accommodating new cuts and fashions as to not disturb one's overall look. The first Kentucky Derby occurred in this century and established itself as the largest hat fashion event in America (and it still is to this day!).

Kentucky Derby Fashion

The 20^th century saw hats in a new light entirely. Wars, constant rationing, and accompanying social and cultural changes had a huge impact on all aspects of fashion, including headwear. The cloche hat peaked in popularity, and round hats with decorative flowers were another favorite of fashion lovers everywhere. Towards the middle of the century, fashion icons like Jackie Kennedy popularized the pillbox hat, which was followed by the fedora for both genders. Berets, top hats, sombreros, western hats, and ball caps all fluctuated in popularity during this time, and some of these styles are still very well received by the public.

Today, hats are still a hugely popular accessory and have been made staples in many sporting, cultural, and social events. They aren’t typically worn for ornamental purposes with as much gusto as they once were, but sports caps, beanies, and sun hats are beloved accessories for casual wear in modern times. To get a piece of fashion history to have as your own, check our collection of hats 

Happy Hat Day TalkingFashion Peeps!

Sources:

Fur in Fashion: Faux Pas or Fabulous?

By Paige McKirahan

One material that has been on trial in fashion court for decades is one that was, for a large portion of its life, associated with high status and class. Fur accessories and clothing have been in circulation for 170,000 years and were used as a status symbol in as early as the 11^th century. European royalty sported fur coats, capes, and accessories commonly made from mink, sable, and chinchilla fur. This increase in fur wearing prompted the creation of laws that regulated which social classes were permitted to wear specific furs. Prior to this, furs were more so used out of utility; the real pelts offered warmth and comfort to people in primitive cultures, starkly contrasting their new popularized purpose.

As the desire for luxury furs increased over the next five centuries, so did the development of fur farms. In the Victorian era, we saw a rise in popularity with both genders as the use of furs in movies put a spotlight on the wild textile. Coats worn by men tended to be lined with fur with other materials covering the outside of the piece. Women’s coats boasted fur accents throughout at the collar, wrists, and hems. We also saw the popularity of dress and shoe clips begin to inflate in the same period; these accessories were either adorned with fur details or accessorized the fur pieces themselves.

Victorian Era Furs

(photo credits to grandladies.com)

Other accessories that loved fur fun were scarves, shawls, and hats. Looking back at their basic use surrounding warmth, people used fur to accessorize cold weather outfits in style. These small hints of luxury could elevate any look and were sure to illustrate the wearers high status.

The 1900s brought big change to the fur industry as imitation furs began to take over the market. Real furs were expensive and many fashionistas, especially animal rights activists, associated them with cruelty. As technology improved, so did the quality of fake furs created from silk and synthetic pile fabrics. Designers began to create more casual looks using fur, moving away from glamour and more towards department store chic. The ’50s and ‘60s saw fur be more affordable than ever, with faux fur options being front and center on account of Old Hollywood influence.

1950s Fur Ad

(photo credits to vintagedancer.com)

Now, fur is still one of the most widely debated fabrics in the industry and and increased amount of high profile brands are declaring themselves as fur free. The ‘90s pushed the faux v. real fur debate and used iconic supermodels as spearheads for the movement away from a fur-filled future. Fendi seems to be at the center of this debate as their haute couture counterparts seem to be ahead in the faux fur conversation; Gucci and Versace have vowed to ditch the real thing, while Fendi continues to unapologetically create pieces with real animal fur. Whatever style you prefer, we encourage you to research furs and the benefits of both styles before deciding on a side! Remember to wear what you love, and find fur items you love in our collection!

The Resurgence of Opulence and Femininity in the 1950s

By Paige McKirahan

As society was finally on the road to recovery in post World War II and Great Depression America, fashion began to reflect this return to the norm as it exploded into new directions and silhouettes. In 1947, Christian Dior created ‘The New Look’ collection, which the first from the couture house and his first as a designer. The goal of the line was to revive France’s international fame in the fashion industry and it was wildly successful; Dior’s excess use of fabric and extremely womanly forms were a refreshing change from the rationed simplicity we became so familiar with in the 1940s.

He was extremely fond of the feminine motifs used in the ‘30s and they were easy to bring back into circulation as women were greatly encouraged to fulfill their roles as beautiful, well-dressed homemakers. Influenced by Victorian era silhouettes, skirts became full and busts were padded to create tiny waists in shorter, sexier styles. Despite the fact that this collection was released in the late ‘40s, it became a huge inspiration for ‘50s fashion and set the tone for the decade’s biggest trends.

Dior’s ‘New Look’

(photo credit to harpersbazaar.com)

Fundamentally, the 1950s were a time of conformity and modesty. Women’s appearances were directly correlated to their husband’s success, causing them to spend more time shopping and updating their closets with the latest fashions in order to appear affluent. There were two main dress types popularized in this era: the swing dress and the pencil dress. The swing dress featured a full skirt and the pencil was a form fitting sheath style. Both had cinched waists are were shin length, but the sheath style was impractical to wear around the house as it didn't allow for much movement. Housedresses were full- skirted and simple in cotton, with shorter sleeves and collars. If a woman had errands to run, she could wear her housedress out and spice it up with matching accessories and a pair of heels rather than flats. Evening and cocktail dresses were glamorous and made of rich fabrics including silk, satin, lace, velvet, and chiffon.

 1950s day dresses

(image credit to vintagedancer.com) 

Skirts were full and commonly made of one large round piece of fabric, dubbing them 'circle skirts'. Fluffy petticoats were worn beneath them to add volume and some were pleated at the waist to give an added fullness. Pockets were common and were either hidden on the sides or adorned on the front as an added statement piece. Poodle skirts are quite possibly one of the most iconic styles to come out of this period, though they were not popular as we assume them to have been.

Jewelry in the ‘50s was clean, colorful, and ornate; as spending power increased in this decade, costume jewelry flourished and gave women the opportunity to coordinate their outfits with accessories effortlessly. Some novelty designs and patriotic motifs were still popular, but they were eventually replaced by classic shapes and colors that were easier to pair with clothing. Expanding on this desire for cohesiveness, many women wore matching sets of jewelry, which were commonly referred to as parures. At the beginning of the decade when pierced ears were not socially acceptable, ear clips reigned and were gem-laden and oversized.

Pearls enjoyed a huge boom in popularity as their chicness paired beautifully with the feminine styles of the time. Yellow- toned and rose gold was the favored choice, along with the synthetic plastic Lucite. Lucite played a huge role in jewelry innovations of the period and prompted the creation of the jelly bean pin; this style of pin was quite small and Lucite was crafted into tiny cabochon balls to form the belly part of the animal design. Trifari and Coro were both huge names in the jewelry industry as they produced the increasingly popular costume jewelry and were the largest manufacturers in the American market.

Clip on earring featuring pearl and gold accents

(photo credits to vintagedancer.com)

Small hats were worn by mature women in this time period, typically made of felt and adorned with flowers, feathers, or bows. Pill box hats, berets, plate hats, and the cloche popularized by Audrey Hepburn were all prominent styles and were created to sit delicately on the head as to not compress the hair. Hair flowers were a famous alternative to hats and were integral to the pin-up look. Scarves tied around the entire head or worn as a headband also accompanied the Rockabilly aesthetic and emphasized the hair flip style. One barely left the house without a pair of gloves, and matching them to hats and purses was a popular practice. Purses tended to be smaller and hobo styles were iconic, along with novelty bags made of unusual materials.

After two decades of rationing and longstanding economic turmoil, the 1950s was a period of overwhelming optimism and change. Dior completely altered the fashion world with his debut collection and pushed the trends of the era towards femininity and opulence. We see accentuated waists come back into style and the rise of more traditional values prevail, which greatly influenced industry trends. If this has inspired you to emulate this iconic era’s style, head over to our collection to check out some vintage pieces that are sure to give you that ‘50s feel!