Fashion and Travels: English Hat Heaven

By Paige McKirahan 

 

All over the world, hats have seen their popularity and overall style fluctuate with market and consumer interest. One country that seems to be still be at the helm of the headwear frenzy after years of iconic hat moments is the United Kingdom. From the bowler to the fascinator, the British infatuation with all things hats has traditional roots that date back centuries. As a nation of self-proclaimed hat wearers, the accessory has been pivotal in defining class, gender, and occupation throughout for centuries. Long have they been associated with symbolic meaning, hats have seen a resurgence of popularity after the most recent Royal weddings have placed a spotlight back on millinery in a big way. 

The flat cap, which is one of England’s most iconic styles, can be traced all the way back to medieval times and became a subject of Tudor laws. An act of Parliament was even instituted stating that all males over the age of six had to wear a wool cap on Sundays and holidays; this became a requirement in 1571 and there was even a fine in place if they did not comply! The flat cap then became an icon of working class culture in the following centuries and prompted the birth of the bowler. Conceived in the Victorian Age, this style was a staple in the closet of the businessman after its practical construction quickly caught the eye of the public. There are many iconic wearers of this style like Liza Minelli and John Steed, but no one immortalized the bowler quite like Charlie Chaplin did when he made it a part of his famous ensemble!

 

Charlie Chaplin in a bowler (source)

 

The deerstalker is another essential British hat design that was made most popular by Sherlock Holmes. As the cornerstone of a Victorian gentleman’s hunting attire, this hat was not created for daily wear in the city and moving towards the Edwardian era, we saw millinery become widely prevalent in hat making. Designs became more elaborate and commonly featured decorative items like lace, birds, flowers, bows, and artificial fruits. Their grand design required the use of hatpins in order to secure their stance on the head, and they allowed women to sport their fabulous headwear even when they were out campaigning for women’s right to vote!

Moving into the 1940s, we saw the rise of the headscarf turban hat as women needed them to ensure their long hair would not get caught in machinery while working in factories. This turban style was a symbol of the war effort and lead to hats becoming an essential piece in the resurgence of Parisian haute couture. Though it seemed that hats would remain a classic accessory at this time, the rise of car ownership in the 1960s denounced the need for lavish headwear or utilitarian hats as they were no longer needed for weather protection or class demarcations.

 

A turban hat in action (source)

 

In the past decade, this British love for hat wearing has been revived with a new generation of Royals. Royal headgear has always been a staple in English culture, and thanks to the wedding of Prince William and Duchess Kate paired with the 300^th anniversary of the Ascot races, the hat’s classic status has been restored. Rachel Trevor-Morgan, who has been milliner to the Queen since 2006, has created hats for a multitude of royal events including The Queen’s 80^th birthday Service of Thanksgiving at St. Pauls and her Diamond Wedding Celebration. This amazing designer credits the Duchess of Cambridge to be a pioneer in hat wearing that will inspire wearers for years to come. Since her wedding, the Stockport Hat Works Museum, which is the only of its kind in the country, is peaking in popularity with their attendee’s headwear use even steadily increasing.

One hat-maker seeing great success is Piers Atkinson; his background working with Zandra Rhodes formed his eccentric style that can be seen on the pages of pivotal publications ranging from Italian Vogue to Tatler. His kitschy, eye-catching designs have been seen on the heads of Kate Moss and Dame Shirley Bassey, establishing himself as a classic contemporary designer with traditional techniques to match. Fred Butler is also seeing similar popularity with her hand-crafted pieces; as the granddaughter of a milliner, she has hat making in her genes and her skilled techniques are loved by the likes of Bjork and Lady Gaga. Hats off to Britain for having such a rich hat history, and we can’t wait to see how their style evolves over the next century!

 

Piers Atkinson Design (source)

Sources:

Magazine, B. (2013, June 17). History of hats. Retrieved from http://www.britain-magazine.com/features/history-of-hats/

Designer Spotlight: Christian Dior

 By Paige McKirahan

 

As a household name in both the fashion world and among creatives alike, Christian Dior was the obvious choice for our designer spotlight this week. This French couturier was born on the coast of Normandy in 1905 as one of five children born to a wealthy fertilizer manufacturer. He moved to Paris at the age of 5 and used his artistic inclinations to sell his sketches on the streets for small change. Though his parents hoped that he would become a renowned diplomat, he was adamant about pursuing his art, prompting his father purchased a small art gallery for him to take over after he completed school. The gallery held a variety of artistic works by artists like Pablo Picasso and tiny but mighty gallery saw small success. Despite this,  Christian was forced to close its doors in the wake of the Great Depression in 1929, the deaths of his mother and brother, and the demise of his father’s business. 

 

Christian Dior Art Gallery (source)

 

Following this event, Christian began working with fashion designer Robert Piguet and did so for around 10 years until he was chosen for military service in 1940. He served for two years and then went to work with couturier Lucien LeLong who dressed the wives of Nazi officers and French collaborators in order to preserve the industry’s economic and artistic prosperity. During this time, Christian was the primary designer at LeLong’s fashion house and worked alongside Pierre Balmain which, as you may have guessed, is the founder of the Balmain fashion house created in 1946.

After working with and under some of the industry’s most prevalent names, Christian decided he was going to found his own fashion house; in December 1946, he founded the house of Dior in Paris and was backed by Marcel Boussac, a cotton-fabric Magnate. Many say that the house was not truly open until 1947, which is when Christian debuted his first collection. 

 

New Look design from first Dior Collection (source)

 

This first collection, containing 90 different looks, was considered the pinnacle of the “New Look” as defined by US Harper's Bazaar magazine editor Carmel Snow. His designs were not aligned with the wartime fabric restrictions and featured calf length, full skirts, cinched waists, and fuller busts. The look garnered some criticism on account of its overall opulence, but it was this lavishness that allowed Paris to re-establish itself as a head player in the fashion world. 

His was an immediate success and was overwhelmed with orders from world-famous icons like Rita Hayworth and Margot Fonteyn. The British Royal family even invited Christian to have a private showing of his collection despite the fact that King George V barred young princesses Elizabeth and Margaret from wearing his controversial New Look pieces. After he became an established name in the industry, he established his ready-to-wear house on New York’ 5^th Avenue in 1948 as the first of its kind. His debut perfume line launched in 1948 as well with Miss Dior being his first fragrance, which was named after his sister.

 

 

Christian meeting Princess Margaret (source)

 

Not to be outdone by any of his counterparts, Dior was the first haute couture brand to license the production of its designs beginning in 1949. Christian realized that his New Look pieces worked hand in hand with one another and he along with his business partner Jacques Rouet saw the importance in licensing his name to an array of luxury accessories including furs, hats, stockings, and ties. This decision was met with great criticism as it was said to “cheapened the haute couture industry”. Regardless, his massive success with the endeavor inspired nearly all other couturiers to follow the same model.

In 1955, Dior hired 19-year-old Yves Saint Laurent as his design assistant and almost immediately knew that Laurent would be the one to succeed him at Dior. He told Laurent’s mother this at the age of 52 and she was quite confused about the remark until he suffered from a fatal heart attack in October of 1957 shortly after his meeting with her. His funeral saw over 2,000 attendees that included his staff and multitude of famous clients with the Duchess of Windsor at their head.

In the wake of Christian's death, Rouet appointed 21-year-old Laurent as the house’s artistic director in an effort to counteract the disarray caused by the event. He held the position until he was drafted and was succeed by Marc Bohan who defined a new era and silhouette for Dior that is known as the Slim Look. This modernized, sleek version of Christian’s iconic look proved to be a hit in the industry and he was an artistic director until 1989. Gianfranco Ferre followed him and then was replaced by John Galliano in 1997 as he was said to have a creative talent that aligned perfectly with Christian’s. Ferre and Galliano transformed the designs and Dior’s ready-to-wear lines shot up in popularity. Galliano’s name was plastered on headlines everywhere when fashion and philanthropic icon Princess Diana wore his first couture dress for the brand.

 

 

St. Laurent design for Dior, 1955 (source)

 

Galliano also was a pioneer in using branded logo motifs and he used that design to create his now iconic saddlebags that were in the hands of every it girl of the era. His brilliant work dazzles but also brought controversy, and he was eventually removed from his position after making anti-Semitic statements on film after a wild night out. Raf Simons then was appointed to the role of artistic director and was a great success from 2012 to 2016. After his departure, the decision surrounding who would succeed him was difficult but game-changing; Maria Grazia Chiuri, the former Valentino co-creative director, took over operations at Dior as the first female to hold the position. Her unapologetic approach empowers women and ensures the brands' success for years to come! We may not have any Dior in store, but we do have a great Saint Laurent piece sure to sate your designer appetite!

 

Sources:

Bannerman, S. L. (2018, July 19). The History of the House of Dior. Retrieved from https://theculturetrip.com/europe/france/articles/the-history-of-the-house-of-dior/

Sowray, B. (2017, August 23). Christian Dior. Retrieved from https://www.vogue.co.uk/article/christian-dior

  

 

 

 

 

 

 

Fur in Fashion: Faux Pas or Fabulous?

By Paige McKirahan

 

One material that has been on trial in fashion court for decades is one that was, for a large portion of its life, associated with high status and class. Fur accessories and clothing have been in circulation for 170,000 years and were used as a status symbol in as early as the 11^th century. European royalty sported fur coats, capes, and accessories commonly made from mink, sable, and chinchilla fur. This increase in fur wearing prompted the creation of laws that regulated which social classes were permitted to wear specific furs. Prior to this, furs were more so used out of utility; the real pelts offered warmth and comfort to people in primitive cultures, starkly contrasting their new popularized purpose.

As the desire for luxury furs increased over the next five centuries, so did the development of fur farms. In the Victorian era, we saw a rise in popularity with both genders as the use of furs in movies put a spotlight on the wild textile. Coats worn by men tended to be lined with fur with other materials covering the outside of the piece. Women’s coats boasted fur accents throughout at the collar, wrists, and hems. We also saw the popularity of dress and shoe clips begin to inflate in the same period; these accessories were either adorned with fur details or accessorized the fur pieces themselves.

 

Victorian Era Furs

(photo credits to grandladies.com)

Other accessories that loved fur fun were scarves, shawls, and hats. Looking back at their basic use surrounding warmth, people used fur to accessorize cold weather outfits in style. These small hints of luxury could elevate any look and were sure to illustrate the wearers high status.

The 1900s brought big change to the fur industry as imitation furs began to take over the market. Real furs were expensive and many fashionistas, especially animal rights activists, associated them with cruelty. As technology improved, so did the quality of fake furs created from silk and synthetic pile fabrics. Designers began to create more casual looks using fur, moving away from glamour and more towards department store chic. The ’50s and ‘60s saw fur be more affordable than ever, with faux fur options being front and center on account of Old Hollywood influence.

 

1950s Fur Ad

(photo credits to vintagedancer.com)

Now, fur is still one of the most widely debated fabrics in the industry and and increased amount of high profile brands are declaring themselves as fur free. The ‘90s pushed the faux v. real fur debate and used iconic supermodels as spearheads for the movement away from a fur-filled future. Fendi seems to be at the center of this debate as their haute couture counterparts seem to be ahead in the faux fur conversation; Gucci and Versace have vowed to ditch the real thing, while Fendi continues to unapologetically create pieces with real animal fur. Whatever style you prefer, we encourage you to research furs and the benefits of both styles before deciding on a side! Remember to wear what you love, and find fur items you love in our collection!

 

Fashion & Style Photography Spotlight: Richard Avedon

By Paige McKirahan

 

To get off ground the launch of our new photography-focused column, we have elected to spotlight Richard Avedon to kick off the new year! As an American fashion and portrait photographer who was best known for flawlessly capturing his subject’s personalities, he shot over 148 Vogue covers throughout his prestigious career. With humble beginnings as a photographer for the Marines during World War II, he then moved on to become a quintessential photographer at Harper’s Bazaar, Vogue, and The New Yorker. Born in 1923, this New York City native’s meticulous eye for detail and great ability to convey emotions through photography landed him the position as one of legendary fashion editor Diana Vreeland’s staff photographers. Her wild visions and eccentric fashion stories were given a new life under Avedon, and his position in the fashion world was secured with her approval. Though most of his work was created before the our current century, his piece's iconic compositions and notable subjects have allowed them to survive the tests of time. Wondering where you have seen his work? He produced a Calvin Klein campaign with 15-year-old Brooke Shields, Revlon’s ‘The Most Unforgettable Women’ campaign, and an advertisement series for Gianni Versace beginning with the spring/summer campaign 1980.

Sources:

Hardy, U. (2016, April 04). 10 Iconic Fashion Photographers. Retrieved from https://theculturetrip.com/north-america/usa/articles/10-iconic-fashion-photographers/

History of Valentino

By Paige McKirahan

 

There are few words that you think of when you hear Valentino, and most of them are associated with luxury. This haute couture label is one of the top fashion brands in the world and has been seen on industry magazines, runways, and red carpets around the globe. Everyone from the likes of Elizabeth Taylor to Naomi Campbell have been seen in these designs and with such a high profile presence in not only the fashion industry, but in the luxury industry as well, you would expect a history that lives up to fame. Valentino Garavani, the creator of the fashion house, made sure that in not only lived up to those expectations, but exceeded them.

 

(photo credits to wwd.com)

Garavani, an Italian native, was born in Voghera in 1932. He had an affinity for fashion starting at the beginning of his life, and eventually went on to study design in Paris at the beginning of 1950. He then was hired for his first design position with Jean Desses, and worked for them until 1967 when he obtained a position with Guy Laroche in his new atelier. After working there for two years and improving his taste and his technical skills, he returned to Italy and opened his own fashion house. At the end of 1957, he debuted his first haute couture collection and his refined lines and sophisticated aesthetic garnered great praise from publications like the Sunday Times in London.

 

Valentino with his collection for Guy Laroche in 1967

(photo credits to her.ie) 

In the following three years, he quickly became the favorite of those in the “new Hollywood”, or Cincecitta, during great economic success in Italy. One of the first big names to wear a Valentino design was Elizabeth Taylor during her time filming Cleopatra in Rome. His collection for fall/ winter in 1961 boasted garments inspired by Jacqueline Kennedy, which only increased his growing global fame. His superstar status was secured after his 1962 show in Florence; the designs were so dazzling that he became the first Italian designer to have a French Vogue cover created in their honor.

 

Valentino 1961

(photo credits to pinterest.com)

His fall/ winter collection for 1963, which featured wild animal motifs, landed him in the pages of American Vogue, launching his popularity in the American market. The 1966 Valentino collection has become famous for its pop-art inspired pieces, which were aligned with the iconic movement during that decade. The 1960s proved to be quite prosperous for the brand as the designer’s pieces and accessories, especially his handbags sporting the luxurious gold “V”, were considered to be fundamental parts of a jet setting woman’s wardrobe. 1968 saw critical moments for the label; its spring/ summer line that year contributed to the dissipation of a haute couture crisis that involved people looking at less exclusive models. Following the show, shops opened up in Paris and Milan and later that year Valentino designed Jacqueline Kennedy’s wedding dress. These events made Garavani the most acclaimed designer in the industry at that and set the tone for the rest of his time with the brand. 

 

(photo credits to pinterest.com)

The 1970s brought experimental changes; a boutique line was created alongside of the Valentino label itself, and both lines adopted an art deco aesthetic. The brand’s first namesake perfume was released in 1978, and it was followed by a line of blue jeans that made their debut at none other than Studio 54. Moving into the ‘80s, we see the rise of the famous Valentino red accompanied by classic black and whites; the silhouettes included a variety of draping, ruching, and dramatic details. The ‘90s saw a decade of celebrations for the brand’s 30 years in fashion through a series of films, books and exhibitions. Valentino himself sold the brand to Holding di Partecipazioni Industriali SpA (HdP) in 1998, but remained the creative director until his retirement in 2008; his last show was at the Musee Rodin in Paris and featured the most iconic set of supermodels from all of his decades in fashion. After Garavani’s retirement, Ferruccio Pozzoni and Alessandra Facchinetti took over his position and they were then succeeded by Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli shortly after, who still director the label today.

 

From Valentino's last show as creative director, 2008

(photo credits to loveofvalentino.blogspot.com)

Valentino has seen a wide collection of iconic accessories ranging from heels to bags. As I said before, the iconic “V” bag was a staple in womens closet and established the house as an essential brand. The Valentino Rockstud heel is quite possibly the most iconic piece to come out of the brand; these studded, strappy stilettos have been a favorite of street style aficionados and have inspired an entire line from the brand. This newfound studded fame reignited the brands popularity and has brought Valentino back to the forefront and into the closets of millions. Check out our favorite Valentino piece in our collection and gift yourself some classic red couture this holiday season!