Designer Spotlight: Christian Dior

 By Paige McKirahan

 

As a household name in both the fashion world and among creatives alike, Christian Dior was the obvious choice for our designer spotlight this week. This French couturier was born on the coast of Normandy in 1905 as one of five children born to a wealthy fertilizer manufacturer. He moved to Paris at the age of 5 and used his artistic inclinations to sell his sketches on the streets for small change. Though his parents hoped that he would become a renowned diplomat, he was adamant about pursuing his art, prompting his father purchased a small art gallery for him to take over after he completed school. The gallery held a variety of artistic works by artists like Pablo Picasso and tiny but mighty gallery saw small success. Despite this,  Christian was forced to close its doors in the wake of the Great Depression in 1929, the deaths of his mother and brother, and the demise of his father’s business. 

 

Christian Dior Art Gallery (source)

 

Following this event, Christian began working with fashion designer Robert Piguet and did so for around 10 years until he was chosen for military service in 1940. He served for two years and then went to work with couturier Lucien LeLong who dressed the wives of Nazi officers and French collaborators in order to preserve the industry’s economic and artistic prosperity. During this time, Christian was the primary designer at LeLong’s fashion house and worked alongside Pierre Balmain which, as you may have guessed, is the founder of the Balmain fashion house created in 1946.

After working with and under some of the industry’s most prevalent names, Christian decided he was going to found his own fashion house; in December 1946, he founded the house of Dior in Paris and was backed by Marcel Boussac, a cotton-fabric Magnate. Many say that the house was not truly open until 1947, which is when Christian debuted his first collection. 

 

New Look design from first Dior Collection (source)

 

This first collection, containing 90 different looks, was considered the pinnacle of the “New Look” as defined by US Harper's Bazaar magazine editor Carmel Snow. His designs were not aligned with the wartime fabric restrictions and featured calf length, full skirts, cinched waists, and fuller busts. The look garnered some criticism on account of its overall opulence, but it was this lavishness that allowed Paris to re-establish itself as a head player in the fashion world. 

His was an immediate success and was overwhelmed with orders from world-famous icons like Rita Hayworth and Margot Fonteyn. The British Royal family even invited Christian to have a private showing of his collection despite the fact that King George V barred young princesses Elizabeth and Margaret from wearing his controversial New Look pieces. After he became an established name in the industry, he established his ready-to-wear house on New York’ 5^th Avenue in 1948 as the first of its kind. His debut perfume line launched in 1948 as well with Miss Dior being his first fragrance, which was named after his sister.

 

 

Christian meeting Princess Margaret (source)

 

Not to be outdone by any of his counterparts, Dior was the first haute couture brand to license the production of its designs beginning in 1949. Christian realized that his New Look pieces worked hand in hand with one another and he along with his business partner Jacques Rouet saw the importance in licensing his name to an array of luxury accessories including furs, hats, stockings, and ties. This decision was met with great criticism as it was said to “cheapened the haute couture industry”. Regardless, his massive success with the endeavor inspired nearly all other couturiers to follow the same model.

In 1955, Dior hired 19-year-old Yves Saint Laurent as his design assistant and almost immediately knew that Laurent would be the one to succeed him at Dior. He told Laurent’s mother this at the age of 52 and she was quite confused about the remark until he suffered from a fatal heart attack in October of 1957 shortly after his meeting with her. His funeral saw over 2,000 attendees that included his staff and multitude of famous clients with the Duchess of Windsor at their head.

In the wake of Christian's death, Rouet appointed 21-year-old Laurent as the house’s artistic director in an effort to counteract the disarray caused by the event. He held the position until he was drafted and was succeed by Marc Bohan who defined a new era and silhouette for Dior that is known as the Slim Look. This modernized, sleek version of Christian’s iconic look proved to be a hit in the industry and he was an artistic director until 1989. Gianfranco Ferre followed him and then was replaced by John Galliano in 1997 as he was said to have a creative talent that aligned perfectly with Christian’s. Ferre and Galliano transformed the designs and Dior’s ready-to-wear lines shot up in popularity. Galliano’s name was plastered on headlines everywhere when fashion and philanthropic icon Princess Diana wore his first couture dress for the brand.

 

 

St. Laurent design for Dior, 1955 (source)

 

Galliano also was a pioneer in using branded logo motifs and he used that design to create his now iconic saddlebags that were in the hands of every it girl of the era. His brilliant work dazzles but also brought controversy, and he was eventually removed from his position after making anti-Semitic statements on film after a wild night out. Raf Simons then was appointed to the role of artistic director and was a great success from 2012 to 2016. After his departure, the decision surrounding who would succeed him was difficult but game-changing; Maria Grazia Chiuri, the former Valentino co-creative director, took over operations at Dior as the first female to hold the position. Her unapologetic approach empowers women and ensures the brands' success for years to come! We may not have any Dior in store, but we do have a great Saint Laurent piece sure to sate your designer appetite!

 

Sources:

Bannerman, S. L. (2018, July 19). The History of the House of Dior. Retrieved from https://theculturetrip.com/europe/france/articles/the-history-of-the-house-of-dior/

Sowray, B. (2017, August 23). Christian Dior. Retrieved from https://www.vogue.co.uk/article/christian-dior

  

 

 

 

 

 

 

Rossignal's Ski Success

 

Wherever you may be, are you surrounded by snow? If not, we will take you on a trip to Las Leñas Ski Resort, a beautiful spot in Mendoza, Argentina.

Today, I am sharing a personal experience from my teen years when I visited the beautiful Las Leñas for my first ski trip. My dad and I spent 15 days in the mountains going up and down all day long, as any typical first timer would do.

At night, we would go out around the resort area; most of the evenings my dad went to play cards, while I went out dancing in the some of the most fantastic nightclubs around the globe. What a blast it was! Some of these places were incredible-- I'm talking glass buildings with multiple activities happening on every floor. The music, people, clothes (it was 1986 so you can imagine); everything was amazing!

It was during that trip when I got hooked to Rossignol Sunglasses. My first pair featured mirrored lenses held by a black frame. Rossignol, a French ski goods company, was founded in 1907 by Abel Rossignol; as a carpenter who was an avid skier, he used wood products from his textile company to craft a pair of skis out of solid wood.

Abel began selling his wooden skis, capturing the attention of recreationalists all across Europe. His work was highly regarded and sold well, putting his factory at the forefront during World War I when skis were needed for the Army. The company was shot to true global fame in 1937 when Frenchman Émile Allais became triple world champion using Rossignol Olympic 41 skis. 

Allais began collaborating with Rossignol, and together they created dynamic designs and brought in a new partner Boix-Vives, a lift builder. He began funding their factory and Allais and Abel worked create laminated aluminum skis and then in 1964, the brand released its first fiberglass ski dubbed the Strato. In the following decade, Rossignol became the world’s largest ski manufacturer after the construction of an American distribution company. 

Even though the company does not currently still hold that top spot, they remain one of the strongest ski brands in winter sports. The brand’s line of cold weather wear that includes skis, sunglasses, and other slope accessories has withstood the test of time and has been a cornerstone of the industry for over a century. With more Olympic and world titles than we can count on both hands, Rossignol is undoubtedly a trustable brand that delivers great products time and time again (and we attest to that!). Want some of this iconic ski wear of your own to help you brave the winter winds? Check out our Rossignol collection!

 

Sources:

Masia, S. (n.d.). 100 Years of Rossignol. Retrieved from https://www.skiinghistory.org/history/100-years-rossignol

Skis Rossignol. (2018, December 20). Retrieved from https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Skis_Rossignol

Fur in Fashion: Faux Pas or Fabulous?

By Paige McKirahan

 

One material that has been on trial in fashion court for decades is one that was, for a large portion of its life, associated with high status and class. Fur accessories and clothing have been in circulation for 170,000 years and were used as a status symbol in as early as the 11^th century. European royalty sported fur coats, capes, and accessories commonly made from mink, sable, and chinchilla fur. This increase in fur wearing prompted the creation of laws that regulated which social classes were permitted to wear specific furs. Prior to this, furs were more so used out of utility; the real pelts offered warmth and comfort to people in primitive cultures, starkly contrasting their new popularized purpose.

As the desire for luxury furs increased over the next five centuries, so did the development of fur farms. In the Victorian era, we saw a rise in popularity with both genders as the use of furs in movies put a spotlight on the wild textile. Coats worn by men tended to be lined with fur with other materials covering the outside of the piece. Women’s coats boasted fur accents throughout at the collar, wrists, and hems. We also saw the popularity of dress and shoe clips begin to inflate in the same period; these accessories were either adorned with fur details or accessorized the fur pieces themselves.

 

Victorian Era Furs

(photo credits to grandladies.com)

Other accessories that loved fur fun were scarves, shawls, and hats. Looking back at their basic use surrounding warmth, people used fur to accessorize cold weather outfits in style. These small hints of luxury could elevate any look and were sure to illustrate the wearers high status.

The 1900s brought big change to the fur industry as imitation furs began to take over the market. Real furs were expensive and many fashionistas, especially animal rights activists, associated them with cruelty. As technology improved, so did the quality of fake furs created from silk and synthetic pile fabrics. Designers began to create more casual looks using fur, moving away from glamour and more towards department store chic. The ’50s and ‘60s saw fur be more affordable than ever, with faux fur options being front and center on account of Old Hollywood influence.

 

1950s Fur Ad

(photo credits to vintagedancer.com)

Now, fur is still one of the most widely debated fabrics in the industry and and increased amount of high profile brands are declaring themselves as fur free. The ‘90s pushed the faux v. real fur debate and used iconic supermodels as spearheads for the movement away from a fur-filled future. Fendi seems to be at the center of this debate as their haute couture counterparts seem to be ahead in the faux fur conversation; Gucci and Versace have vowed to ditch the real thing, while Fendi continues to unapologetically create pieces with real animal fur. Whatever style you prefer, we encourage you to research furs and the benefits of both styles before deciding on a side! Remember to wear what you love, and find fur items you love in our collection!

 

The Benefits of Consigning Your Jewelry and Vintage Accessories

By Paige McKirahan 

 

Looking to get rid of any pieces collecting dust in your closet? Look no further! Here at TalkingFashion, we are always looking for fun, fresh inventory to join our collection. We accept high quality women’s and men’s vintage or antique jewelry, as well as bijoux accessories. If you don’t see the designer of your piece on our A-Z Designers List, not to worry; if you have an unmarked or unknown piece that is unique or valuable, we would be happy to take a look at it! Wondering how you can consign? You can take your pick of our three easy methods below:

1. Schedule a free in-home pick up with a team member. (Columbus, Ohio residents only!)
2. Ship your items to our office directly
3. Come into our office for a free valuation and drop-off.

Once we receive your piece, one of team members will carefully evaluate your item to ensure it is properly identified, authenticated, photographed, and priced. We will then market and ship your piece once it is sold, and you can be paid by online cash transfer, direct deposit, or site credit (which earns you an extra 20%!). Our commission rates vary by item price, and you can view our commission structure here.

Consigning in general has great benefits as it is a sustainable practice that extends the life of pieces, putting their beauty back on the map. When you consign with us, the list of benefits only seems to grow; our high commission rates makes us the obvious choice for all your vintage and bijoux consignment needs! Have more questions? Email use at consign@talkingfashion.net and we would be happy to help!