Designer Spotlight: Christian Dior

 By Paige McKirahan

 

As a household name in both the fashion world and among creatives alike, Christian Dior was the obvious choice for our designer spotlight this week. This French couturier was born on the coast of Normandy in 1905 as one of five children born to a wealthy fertilizer manufacturer. He moved to Paris at the age of 5 and used his artistic inclinations to sell his sketches on the streets for small change. Though his parents hoped that he would become a renowned diplomat, he was adamant about pursuing his art, prompting his father purchased a small art gallery for him to take over after he completed school. The gallery held a variety of artistic works by artists like Pablo Picasso and tiny but mighty gallery saw small success. Despite this,  Christian was forced to close its doors in the wake of the Great Depression in 1929, the deaths of his mother and brother, and the demise of his father’s business. 

 

Christian Dior Art Gallery (source)

 

Following this event, Christian began working with fashion designer Robert Piguet and did so for around 10 years until he was chosen for military service in 1940. He served for two years and then went to work with couturier Lucien LeLong who dressed the wives of Nazi officers and French collaborators in order to preserve the industry’s economic and artistic prosperity. During this time, Christian was the primary designer at LeLong’s fashion house and worked alongside Pierre Balmain which, as you may have guessed, is the founder of the Balmain fashion house created in 1946.

After working with and under some of the industry’s most prevalent names, Christian decided he was going to found his own fashion house; in December 1946, he founded the house of Dior in Paris and was backed by Marcel Boussac, a cotton-fabric Magnate. Many say that the house was not truly open until 1947, which is when Christian debuted his first collection. 

 

New Look design from first Dior Collection (source)

 

This first collection, containing 90 different looks, was considered the pinnacle of the “New Look” as defined by US Harper's Bazaar magazine editor Carmel Snow. His designs were not aligned with the wartime fabric restrictions and featured calf length, full skirts, cinched waists, and fuller busts. The look garnered some criticism on account of its overall opulence, but it was this lavishness that allowed Paris to re-establish itself as a head player in the fashion world. 

His was an immediate success and was overwhelmed with orders from world-famous icons like Rita Hayworth and Margot Fonteyn. The British Royal family even invited Christian to have a private showing of his collection despite the fact that King George V barred young princesses Elizabeth and Margaret from wearing his controversial New Look pieces. After he became an established name in the industry, he established his ready-to-wear house on New York’ 5^th Avenue in 1948 as the first of its kind. His debut perfume line launched in 1948 as well with Miss Dior being his first fragrance, which was named after his sister.

 

 

Christian meeting Princess Margaret (source)

 

Not to be outdone by any of his counterparts, Dior was the first haute couture brand to license the production of its designs beginning in 1949. Christian realized that his New Look pieces worked hand in hand with one another and he along with his business partner Jacques Rouet saw the importance in licensing his name to an array of luxury accessories including furs, hats, stockings, and ties. This decision was met with great criticism as it was said to “cheapened the haute couture industry”. Regardless, his massive success with the endeavor inspired nearly all other couturiers to follow the same model.

In 1955, Dior hired 19-year-old Yves Saint Laurent as his design assistant and almost immediately knew that Laurent would be the one to succeed him at Dior. He told Laurent’s mother this at the age of 52 and she was quite confused about the remark until he suffered from a fatal heart attack in October of 1957 shortly after his meeting with her. His funeral saw over 2,000 attendees that included his staff and multitude of famous clients with the Duchess of Windsor at their head.

In the wake of Christian's death, Rouet appointed 21-year-old Laurent as the house’s artistic director in an effort to counteract the disarray caused by the event. He held the position until he was drafted and was succeed by Marc Bohan who defined a new era and silhouette for Dior that is known as the Slim Look. This modernized, sleek version of Christian’s iconic look proved to be a hit in the industry and he was an artistic director until 1989. Gianfranco Ferre followed him and then was replaced by John Galliano in 1997 as he was said to have a creative talent that aligned perfectly with Christian’s. Ferre and Galliano transformed the designs and Dior’s ready-to-wear lines shot up in popularity. Galliano’s name was plastered on headlines everywhere when fashion and philanthropic icon Princess Diana wore his first couture dress for the brand.

 

 

St. Laurent design for Dior, 1955 (source)

 

Galliano also was a pioneer in using branded logo motifs and he used that design to create his now iconic saddlebags that were in the hands of every it girl of the era. His brilliant work dazzles but also brought controversy, and he was eventually removed from his position after making anti-Semitic statements on film after a wild night out. Raf Simons then was appointed to the role of artistic director and was a great success from 2012 to 2016. After his departure, the decision surrounding who would succeed him was difficult but game-changing; Maria Grazia Chiuri, the former Valentino co-creative director, took over operations at Dior as the first female to hold the position. Her unapologetic approach empowers women and ensures the brands' success for years to come! We may not have any Dior in store, but we do have a great Saint Laurent piece sure to sate your designer appetite!

 

Sources:

Bannerman, S. L. (2018, July 19). The History of the House of Dior. Retrieved from https://theculturetrip.com/europe/france/articles/the-history-of-the-house-of-dior/

Sowray, B. (2017, August 23). Christian Dior. Retrieved from https://www.vogue.co.uk/article/christian-dior

  

 

 

 

 

 

 

Designer Spotlight: Mandana Mani

By Paige McKirahan

 

 

In the wake of our discussion regarding the top influencers of 2018, we were left wondering if there are any designers that use their platform to operate their own store (similar to our model!) After some research, we came across the fabulous Mandana Mani; this Iranian fashion designer born on January 12th, 1978 (Happy Birthday Mandana!), hails from Tehran and is the owner and creator of her namesake clothing brand, Mandana Mani. Mani posts her contemporary, classic designs on her Instagram account to over 300,000 followers almost daily and invites them to contact her where they can purchase the clothing directly as her pieces are exclusively sold online.

 

 

Her Instagram is vibrant and appealing as her stories feature great style inspiration that go hand in hand with her personal designs! Working as her own model, she commonly posts product photos of her wearing her pieces as part of a full outfit, giving the viewer a great idea of how the piece is tailored. She also is active on Telegram, where she frequently posts photos and videos of her clothing to supplement her Instagram feed. Her designs are mostly revolve around outerwear and she makes stylish coats for every season and gender.

 

 

Though she is very private about most aspects of her life, we do know that she is a lover of fashion and Jennifer Lopez. She also commonly pairs her beautiful outfits with a variety of colorful headscarves, making her a woman after our own hearts. This elusive fashion mogul was the obvious choice for our spotlight this week because as fellow online business owners and lovers of all things fashion, we could relate to her boss lady ethic! To see more of Mandana and her designs, check her out on Instagram at @mandanamani!

 

Sources:

Editors. (2018, December 5). Who is Mandana Mani? Everything You Need to Know. Retrieved from https://www.thefamouspeople.com/profiles/mandana-mani-43076.php

The Benefits of Consigning Your Jewelry and Vintage Accessories

By Paige McKirahan 

 

Looking to get rid of any pieces collecting dust in your closet? Look no further! Here at TalkingFashion, we are always looking for fun, fresh inventory to join our collection. We accept high quality women’s and men’s vintage or antique jewelry, as well as bijoux accessories. If you don’t see the designer of your piece on our A-Z Designers List, not to worry; if you have an unmarked or unknown piece that is unique or valuable, we would be happy to take a look at it! Wondering how you can consign? You can take your pick of our three easy methods below:

1. Schedule a free in-home pick up with a team member. (Columbus, Ohio residents only!)
2. Ship your items to our office directly
3. Come into our office for a free valuation and drop-off.

Once we receive your piece, one of team members will carefully evaluate your item to ensure it is properly identified, authenticated, photographed, and priced. We will then market and ship your piece once it is sold, and you can be paid by online cash transfer, direct deposit, or site credit (which earns you an extra 20%!). Our commission rates vary by item price, and you can view our commission structure here.

Consigning in general has great benefits as it is a sustainable practice that extends the life of pieces, putting their beauty back on the map. When you consign with us, the list of benefits only seems to grow; our high commission rates makes us the obvious choice for all your vintage and bijoux consignment needs! Have more questions? Email use at consign@talkingfashion.net and we would be happy to help!

History of Valentino

By Paige McKirahan

 

There are few words that you think of when you hear Valentino, and most of them are associated with luxury. This haute couture label is one of the top fashion brands in the world and has been seen on industry magazines, runways, and red carpets around the globe. Everyone from the likes of Elizabeth Taylor to Naomi Campbell have been seen in these designs and with such a high profile presence in not only the fashion industry, but in the luxury industry as well, you would expect a history that lives up to fame. Valentino Garavani, the creator of the fashion house, made sure that in not only lived up to those expectations, but exceeded them.

 

(photo credits to wwd.com)

Garavani, an Italian native, was born in Voghera in 1932. He had an affinity for fashion starting at the beginning of his life, and eventually went on to study design in Paris at the beginning of 1950. He then was hired for his first design position with Jean Desses, and worked for them until 1967 when he obtained a position with Guy Laroche in his new atelier. After working there for two years and improving his taste and his technical skills, he returned to Italy and opened his own fashion house. At the end of 1957, he debuted his first haute couture collection and his refined lines and sophisticated aesthetic garnered great praise from publications like the Sunday Times in London.

 

Valentino with his collection for Guy Laroche in 1967

(photo credits to her.ie) 

In the following three years, he quickly became the favorite of those in the “new Hollywood”, or Cincecitta, during great economic success in Italy. One of the first big names to wear a Valentino design was Elizabeth Taylor during her time filming Cleopatra in Rome. His collection for fall/ winter in 1961 boasted garments inspired by Jacqueline Kennedy, which only increased his growing global fame. His superstar status was secured after his 1962 show in Florence; the designs were so dazzling that he became the first Italian designer to have a French Vogue cover created in their honor.

 

Valentino 1961

(photo credits to pinterest.com)

His fall/ winter collection for 1963, which featured wild animal motifs, landed him in the pages of American Vogue, launching his popularity in the American market. The 1966 Valentino collection has become famous for its pop-art inspired pieces, which were aligned with the iconic movement during that decade. The 1960s proved to be quite prosperous for the brand as the designer’s pieces and accessories, especially his handbags sporting the luxurious gold “V”, were considered to be fundamental parts of a jet setting woman’s wardrobe. 1968 saw critical moments for the label; its spring/ summer line that year contributed to the dissipation of a haute couture crisis that involved people looking at less exclusive models. Following the show, shops opened up in Paris and Milan and later that year Valentino designed Jacqueline Kennedy’s wedding dress. These events made Garavani the most acclaimed designer in the industry at that and set the tone for the rest of his time with the brand. 

 

(photo credits to pinterest.com)

The 1970s brought experimental changes; a boutique line was created alongside of the Valentino label itself, and both lines adopted an art deco aesthetic. The brand’s first namesake perfume was released in 1978, and it was followed by a line of blue jeans that made their debut at none other than Studio 54. Moving into the ‘80s, we see the rise of the famous Valentino red accompanied by classic black and whites; the silhouettes included a variety of draping, ruching, and dramatic details. The ‘90s saw a decade of celebrations for the brand’s 30 years in fashion through a series of films, books and exhibitions. Valentino himself sold the brand to Holding di Partecipazioni Industriali SpA (HdP) in 1998, but remained the creative director until his retirement in 2008; his last show was at the Musee Rodin in Paris and featured the most iconic set of supermodels from all of his decades in fashion. After Garavani’s retirement, Ferruccio Pozzoni and Alessandra Facchinetti took over his position and they were then succeeded by Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli shortly after, who still director the label today.

 

From Valentino's last show as creative director, 2008

(photo credits to loveofvalentino.blogspot.com)

Valentino has seen a wide collection of iconic accessories ranging from heels to bags. As I said before, the iconic “V” bag was a staple in womens closet and established the house as an essential brand. The Valentino Rockstud heel is quite possibly the most iconic piece to come out of the brand; these studded, strappy stilettos have been a favorite of street style aficionados and have inspired an entire line from the brand. This newfound studded fame reignited the brands popularity and has brought Valentino back to the forefront and into the closets of millions. Check out our favorite Valentino piece in our collection and gift yourself some classic red couture this holiday season!

A Fashion Year in Review

By Paige McKirahan

 

As 2018 is coming to a close and everyone is making big plans for 2019, we here at TalkingFashion thought it would be remiss to not shed light on some of the industry’s favorite books, blogs, and moguls from this year. Whether you’re looking for those last minute gifts for late holiday parties or trying to find the perfect obsession to carry over into the new year, we’ve got you covered!

When it comes to fashion in literature, there is no shortage of publications covering everything from history to technical design. Read on to see our top books of 2018 that are sure to be a coffee table hit!

 

For the history buff:

Francesca Liberatore is a biographical novel discussing the life of Italian designer who worked for some of the most infamous fashion houses in couture history, including one belonging to none other than Jean-Paul Gaultier. Even though this title is not yet published (release date February 2^nd, 2019), it is highly anticipated by fashion readers all over the globe.

Ferris Bueller: Catharsis is a photographic novel showing the fashionable archives found in one’s childhood bedroom located in Queens, New York. The room, which belonged to marketing consultant Rodney Bailey, shows us how styles survive the test of time and how some don’t share a similar fate.

 

 

Stephanie Pfriender Stylander: The Untamed Eye dissects how photographer Stephanie Stylander navigated the wild climate of the fashion industry in the 1990s. She was, at the very least, one of the most cinematic photographers of her time and she worked with all of the greats not only in fashion, but in the entertainment industry as well.

Tudors to Windsors shows 500 years of British royalty depicted in photographs and other artworks, exploring dynasties by year and fashion. These images embrace how the royals they display would have been interpreted based upon the popular culture and contemporary styles of the time, offering great insight into portraiture and trends. 

 

For the model and subject obsessed:

Overworked Body #2: An Anthology of 2000s Dress features a complication of photos that have been recreated based upon iconic interpretations of fashion from the past two decades. These reimaginations are so popular that the book has been out of stock consistently since its release.

 

 

Posturing aims to discuss aesthetics in fashion shoots and how models and photographers work with the body to create visually stimulating image. It tells readers how these positions work to tell stories and discusses how what the body means is ever evolving. 

Schoeller: Close bounds 120 portraits featuring some of the world’s most famous people across all mediums ranging from fashion and politics to entertainment, and sports. These up close and personal shots are all have identical compositions, but also have different moods because of the subjects’ different looks.

 

For the design lovers:

 

 

Hermes Pop-Up is the quintessential pop up for fashion lovers; its annual release illustrates the luxury brand’s upcoming creative direction for the year in the most stimulating way. The book expands on their iconic scarf designs and has now become a beloved tradition that began in 1987 for the brand’s 150^th anniversary. This year’s theme? Lets Play!

Jewellery: Art Nouveau to 3D Printing aims to present a comprehensive collection of jewelry and its respective designers starting at the beginning of the 20^th century and spanning to the present. It examines pieces from all around the globe that are made from a multitude of materials and explores the influence of art movements on the design of these jewels.

Italian Tailoring discusses the longstanding traditions and technical practices in Italian garment making. The longstanding legacy of elegant, good styling and appreciation is widely associated with Italian pieces and this insider view profiles 28 iconic tailoring shops in Italy and the designers that created them.

 

Moving on to our favorite blogs (other ours, of course), it seems that 2018 was truly the year that this genre of writing became overtly popular. From moms to fashion moguls, everyone wants to share their thoughts on a wide range of topics. Continue on to find your newest favorite blogger to add to your reading list!

 

Modest Mira

This Manchester based stylist and influencer draws in readers with her fun language and captions, showing that you don’t have to comprise style when dressing modestly.

Slip Into Style

Ellie, a Parisian influencer, has an cool-girl aesthetic to die for. From her blog to her Instagram, her urban luxe look stuns readers and she fearlessly mixes materials and trends to create stunning ensembles.

Caro Daur

Caroline Daur, fashion blogger and Instagram superstar, is having quite the year as she has just hit 1.2 million followers in addition to being handpicked by Stefano himself to walk in Dolce & Gabbana’s Milan Fashion Week Show. Her ever changing style keeps readers hooked and her affinity for fun fashion makes it easy to see why she's a blog favorite.

Work Work Work

Katherine Ormerod is the genius behind the fashion, life, and career blog that gives readers great insight into cool-girl niche brands everyone crazes over before they become mainstream. Her chic, everyday style makes you want to hit the mall and her fashion savvy attitude is one that captures the public with ease.  

Margaret Zhang

This Chinese-Australian blogger does it all; Zhang is photographer, director, stylist, and writer (a woman of all trades!) based out of New York and is taking the fashion world by storm. Breaking the mold of the typical fashion girl, this law graduate can do it all while strutting in Saint Laurent boots. 

Look De Pernille

When Pernille Teisback launched her namesake blog in 2012, her sleek Scandinavian looks captivated thousands of readers across the world. This Copenhagen native provides your one stop shop for all upcoming street style trends, and her Instagram proves that she can put her tips into action.

Helena Bordon

As one of the industry’s most influential writers and fashionistas, this São Paulo native is the daughter of Vogue Brazil's style director. Her fashionable roots shine through as she is now a blogger and co-founder of popular high fashion streetwear brand, 284. 

SheWearsFashion

Kavita Donkersley, a fashion icon who hails from London, coverts around the globe with a high fashion wardrobe that every fashion lover dreams of. She has been a staple blogger now for several years and readers have loved watching her style evolve over time. 

 

WeWoreWhat

 

 

Danielle Bernstein is a New York based fashion blogger who is the source of our favorite fashion inspo. With her handy tagged items and cool, clean aesthetic, it's not hard to understand why she has such a cult following. 

NotJessFashion

Another great source of enthralling outfit inspiration, this Big Apple blogger stuns with her advice covering everything from style tips to guides for upcoming bloggers. Her unique photos and empowering voice inspires her followers to be confident in their fashion choices and they love her for it!

 

Lastly, as the year of the influencer comes to a end, I am sure we all follow a few Instagram stars with fabulous wardrobes and style. Let these fashionistas profiles do the talking and check out this years biggest industry influencers below!

 

Alexa Chung

 

 

Julia Engel

 

Chiara Ferragni

 

Gabi Gregg

 

Jenn Im

 

Gala Gonzalez

 

Olivia Palermo

 

Leandra Medine

 

Garance Doré

 

Jeanne Damas

 

 

There you have it, fashion lovers! We hope you have found a new interest from seeing all of these amazing fashionable creatives, because we sure did! This year of fashion will be hard to top, but we are more excited than ever to see what 2019 has in store for us! 

 

Sources: