Fashion Week Accessories and Jewelry review by James Hagerman
We were hit with New York Fashion Week. Then London, then Milan, and then Paris. Many designs were particularly eco-conscious this season. Across the board, collections showed more global awareness, whether it was based on high levels of diversity and inclusion on the runway, like Prabal Gurung’s “Who Gets to Be American?” show, or celebration of traditional cultures, like Niu Niu’s collection that highlights his Chinese heritage. Trends in jewelry and accessories also followed these artistic visions.
At talkingfashion, we love baubles, whimsical bijoux, and all things accessories. Many New York Fashion Week trends, like chain links, shells (again), oversized eyeglasses, boxy patterns, bags, and shoes arose as equally-trendy on the other side of the Atlantic. Here are some widespread designers who embodied trendy themes that definitely caught our eye!
Nature in the Streets
As we noted in our last blog post, designers at New York Fashion week flaunted shells, bright colors, and flower crowns in their pieces. On Valentino’s Parisian runway, feathers were tasseled onto shoe heels, belts, and bags, and attached to frilly dresses and loose tops, lifting models to new heights, and allowing them to look as if they were gliding across the runway. While many fabrics were angelically white, others were monochromatic, bright, and lush, featuring prints of various flora and fauna. On the more brightly colored pieces, gold earrings also featured colorful stones and some models donned tinted shades, creating a whirlwind of color and mystique. With a few of the brighter ensembles, longer necklaces and earrings included animal figurines.
(source: Vogue/Valentino show)
Nature was also placed on the forefront from the contrast it drew against streetwear fabrics in many shows, a notable one being Prada at Milan Fashion Week. Prada featured models clad in “Timeless hipness” according to Vogue; this “hipness” was accentuated by snakeskin and bucket bags (and hats), and gigantic shell necklaces and earrings. Vogue quotes Miuccia Prada herself, who completely represents our motto at talkingfashion when she stipulates that “personal style is more important than clothes.” Or, as whimsical fahion icon Iris Apfel says, “What’s my style is not your style.” The Prada designs this season looked affordable, more DIY, and mix-and-matched. There was an element of individuality that was brought out by the contrasting fabrics and the eccentricities in the accessories.
Outdoorsy bucket hats were also present in Dior’s Paris Fashion Week show, which was the most nature-infused runway this season. According to an Elle article on Dior’s sustainable, eco-friendly show, real trees from European nurseries bound for urban sustainability projects in Paris lined the runway. Dior’s show featured rope-tied sandals and belts, large beaded necklaces of wood and pearl, wicker hats, and foliated gold necklaces, chains, earrings, and brooches. The foliated gold added a level of leafy luster to the otherwise earth-tone outfits.
Stay Gold, Stay Metallic
There was so much gold on the runway this season!
Dior was not the only prominent designer to accessorize with gold this season. Gold accessories, such as gilded, bejeweled brows and asymmetrical dangling gold earrings, as well as chain-link lariats and figurines attached to gold hoops, evoked the sense of foliated leafiness that Dior’s designs created. Models walked with an ethereal, yet natural aura on Valentino’s runway. This kept perfectly in-line with the eco-conscious theme of Spring 2020 designs.
Chloé at Paris Fashion Week also endowed their pieces with thick gold and metallic bands, chokers, and earrings. These designs oozed professional sophistication. Accessories were just enough to complete pieces and alter them with an imaginative pop without detracting from the rest of the ensemble. The rest of the pieces were quite simple, which allowed jewelry to stand out without taking on an overtly flashy presence.
A few of the chokers at Chloé’s show were chain-link, and this was a widespread trend for the 2020 Spring season. Sacai, Alyx, Chanel, and Rick Owens also mastered the chain-link look in chokers and other pieces of jewelry, like earrings.
In Milan, Moschino’s thick gold-colored bracelets, earrings, and chain-link necklaces and belts added an effervescent shine to all of the colorful floral and Picasso-inspired printed fabrics. Many accessories were also inlaid with colorful jewels that matched the color of fabrics, turning models into literal works of art.
Chain link aside, there were many other shape-centric looks this season when it came to accessories. Polka dots and squares pervaded the runway, and in the case of Christopher Kane, accessories were actually part of the fabric! His “Eco-Sexual” collection is themed around “Making love in nature” and being “in touch with the earth” according to Vogue’s coverage. Metal spheres were embedded into the fabric of most of his pieces, and also attached elongated glass earrings. The industrial aspect of the geometric accessories contrasted with patterns on fabric to idealize coexistence between humanity and nature.
Lanvin’s Paris show was also full of geometric patterns in its free-flowing, baggy fabrics. Some of these fabrics were brought back to earth with gold dangling, cubic necklaces and earrings, along with the occasional choker. Rigid jewelry pieces also allowed materials to flow even more, as large hoop earrings actually carried attachments of colorful patterned fabric. Hoops were another prevalent trend this season, finding their way into other collections, like Balmain, Marni, and Missoni.
Across many of these collections, a massively prevalent theme was contrast and juxtaposition. Christopher Kane’s “Eco-Sexual” collection is completely built around the concept of two different ideals converging (nature and human), as is Prada, which mixes and mismatches styles, fabrics, and accessory choices for each piece. Another collection that zeroed in on especially intricate juxtaposition was the designer Area, whose New York collection featured over-the-top strings of crystals on the face, shoulders, and ears, creating an opulent shell-like covering around models that encased frilly dresses in soft, pale hues.
What might be the biggest takeaway from this spring season is the idea that none of us need to conform (or match) with any patterns, structures, or ideas—we just need to embrace our own intuition! Every day is a chance to walk outside and become the person that you want to become by wearing what makes you feel brave, fearless, and completely yourself. We love seeing how designers are using fashion to create their own artistic vision, and we use this as inspiration for our own visions.
Established in 1986, talkingfashion Inc. is the umbrella company for luxboheme and artedellamoda brands. Our online store (www.talkingfashion.net) offers contemporary and vintage art and costume bijoux, statement pieces, and quality accessories. In addition to our online shop, we also provide personal styling, pop-up parties, and consignment. Our motto is “Wear what you love, every day,” and this is reflected through our eccentric, whimsical pieces that endure beyond typical trends and fast fashion. We believe in designs that encourage individuality and beauty through self-expression.