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Folk Art in Fashion Culture: Folk Couture
Folk Art in Fashion Culture: Folk Couture
By Paige McKirahan
When evaluating the vast number of art movements that have influenced fashion and design for centuries, it seems like the list of inspirational aesthetics is never-ending. From Art Nouveau to Art Deco, we have seen the line between art and fashion become blurred; the Folk Art movement is no exception and has undoubtedly enjoyed its own transition into the fashion industry. So much, in fact, that the American Folk Art museum created an entire exhibit dedicated to this assimilation. The “Folk Couture: Fashion and Folk Art” show, which was first introduced in early in 2014, called upon 13 couturiers to create one of a kind designs that correlate with specific pieces in their art collection. The connection between the two may not always be overtly evident, forcing the viewer to truly consider the pieces and how they have similar characteristics. Yes, some specific motifs from the art that inspired the clothing piece are used, but there are no direct translations of the artworks incorporated into the pieces.
Jean Yu’s chiffon dress and its inspiration, Porcupine, created by David Alvarez in 1981
(photo credits to artnews.com)
Fashion may be the hook to reel in some visitors, but the pieces in no way overshadow the art; instead, they complement the work rather than distract from it. The designers chosen by guest curator Alexis Carreño to design and create these fashion pieces are overwhelming eclectic. Even if they do not normally design pieces with folk art in mind, they all had a great eye as to what aesthetics would transition well into fashion and wowed spectators with their work.
Art often envelops fashion and vice versa; we see this cannibalistic practice illustrated with folk quilts being made of clothing scraps and folk painters like Ammi Phillips looking to fashion in print for posing inspiration. In a city where fashion reigns and museums are always looking for ways to draw in patrons, the American Folk Art Museum proved that other New York museums can incorporate fashion into their galleries successfully (and without the help of Anna Wintour). Feeling inspired by folk aesthetics but not looking to create your own gallery-inspired piece? Check out our collections to find some accessories that are already made and ready for you to purchase!
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Symbolism & Style: The Diverse Jewelry of Africa
Symbolism & Style: The Diverse Jewelry of Africa by Morgan Watkins
Africa: a continent represented by diverse cultures, art and rich history. While it would be nearly impossible to put into words the beauty of this land, part of Africa’s charm can be appreciated through the jewelry created and worn by tribes and peoples across its regions. Saturated in vivid colors, constructed through various mediums and holding deep symbolism, African accessories are much more than strings of beads and copper wire. Keep on reading to learn more about Africa’s intricate and intriguing jewelry.
(Image from https://www.trekearth.com/gallery/Africa/Kenya/East/North_Eastern/Samburu_National_ Park/photo127575.htm)
It is said that jewelry in Africa dates back as far as 10,000 B.C., where jewelry was first constructed of simple natural resources. Animals were utilized not only to feed tribes, but also to create unique pieces made from bones, hides, and horns. Before trade was introduced to Africans, sticks, clay, seeds, shells, coral and stones could be foraged and utilized to fashion up jewelry. Beads became another valuable item for accessory making, as well as trade. Evolving from simple seeds to small glass ornaments, Africans were able to use aggri beads to barter with Europeans who entered the continent during the 15th and 16th centuries, when the African slave trade was beginning to rise. The more beads Africans had, the more valuable they were in the eyes of slave traders.
(Image from https://www.pinterest.com/pin/165648092516531850/?lp=true)
Speaking of beads, these tiny round items also serve a gaggle of other purposes. Dzi beads, echinacea beads and amber beads can either be consumed or worn by individuals, as they are utilized medically and as dietary supplements. Newborns commonly receive bracelets containing these beads as a way to physically and spiritually protect them from the outside world. Similarly, the dead also take these pieces to the grave. On a lighter note, waist beads, or strings of beads worn just above the hips, serve as a symbol of fertility, protection, seduction and healing. These accessories celebrate womanhood and femininity while ensuring prosperous reproductive health.
(Image from https://www.behance.net/gallery/5767485/Dipo-Ceremony-Krobo-Ghana)
For the Maasai people, beads are utilized to communicate various meanings via color codes. For example, red beads symbolize bravery and unity, white beads represent health and peace, and blue beads are used as a sign of energy. Not only that but the types of beaded necklaces worn by women communicate the marital status of the wearer. Unmarried women don flat beaded disc necklaces while soon to be married ladies sport elaborate, heavily beaded jewelry. Those who are married wear long strands of blue beads around their necks. Like the Maasai, Nigerian woman, too, wear accessory pieces to represent their courting status, which is presented in the form of woven bracelets.
(Image from http://www.freakingnews.com/Masai-Woman-in-Colorful-Clothes-Pictures-83725.asp)
Maasai women of high society are often styled in the most colorful beads around in order to show off their status. And like the Maasai, the Ashanti also use jewelry to represent social strata. Accessories in the Ghana region are usually limited to upper class individuals, who favor gold bracelets, armlets, anklets, rings, headdresses and more. Women of the Fulani, another tribe that loves gold jewelry, characteristically wear massive gold earrings as a symbol of wealth; the bigger the earrings, the richer the family.
(Image from https://interesting-africa-facts.com/African-Jewelry/Fulani-Earrings.shtml)
Egyptians, however, view their jewelry in a different light. Pieces created from gold and copper, often complimented with lapis lazuli, carnelian, and turquoise, hold spiritual significance and protect individuals from devilish spirits and bad energy. Egyptians wouldn’t even part with their beloved amulets and talismans when faced with death, as they believe their accessories could be carried with them into the afterlife.The Berber and Tuareg people also believe in jewelry’s spiritual powers, refusing to wear silver as it was deemed a metal of bad luck. Their jewelry is usually large in size, heavy in weight, and intricate in design. Geometric shapes are common templates for the Saharan region, and crosses are passed on from father to son in the Tuareg communities as a means to combat evil.
(Image from http://www.styleskier.com/five-interesting-facts-about-egyptian-jewelry/)
African men and women alike favor gold, but instead of wearing bracelets and necklaces like the ladies of Africa, men tend to prefer helmets and headdresses. Chieftains in Senegal model weighty gold head plaques, while Ashanti men at the Ivory Coast lean towards helmets constructed from stiffened animal hides that are embellished with gold leaves and wooden ornaments.
(Image from https://www.pinterest.com/pin/134474738844835952/?lp=true)
All in all, the intensely diverse and magnificent cultures of Africa all have one thing in common: their jewelry are works of art. Pieces like beaded necklaces and gold plated headdresses are a reflection of Africa’s people and their beauty, making this jewelry more than just jewelry. With a bounty of symbolism instilled in these pieces, African accessories perfectly embody how fashion can represent not only personal style and values, but also the world and the incredible cultures it encompasses. Looking for some stunning African inspired jewelry to add to your accessory arsenal? Be sure to check out our favorite styles on talkingfashion.net!
References:
Bello, Ebun. “Let’s Talk about African Gold Jewelry – History and Symbolism.” Zoede, 12 Nov. 2017,
https://zoede.com/lets-talk-african-gold-jewelry-history-symbolism/.
Fiandaca, Sean. “5 Things You Didn’t Know About Maasai Beadwork.” ThomsonSafaris,18 Oct. 2016, https://thomsonsafaris.com/blog/5-things-didnt-know-maasai-beadwork/. Katsande, Rukariro. “The Importance of Beads and Beadwork in African Culture.”
Wilderness Safaris, 11 Nov. 2014,https://wilderness-safaris.com/blog/posts/the-importance-of-beads-and-beadwork-in-african-culture.
Katsande, Rukariro. “The Importance of Beads and Beadwork in African Culture, Part II.” Wilderness Safaris,18 Nov. 2014,https://wilderness-safaris.com/blog/posts/the-importance-of-beads-and-beadwork-in-african-culture-part-ii.
Kimani, Natalie. “ANCIENT AFRICAN JEWELRY: Design History on the Continent.”The Designers Studio,22 Nov. 2017, http://tdsblog.com/ancient-african-jewellery/.
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Sustainable Jewelry: Wooden Accessories
Wooden Jewelry
By Paige McKirahan
As one of the most versatile materials in nature, wood can do everything from create beautiful jewelry to make paper. With the ability to be delicately carved and elegantly painted, it has been trending in the accessory industry for decades. Considering society’s movement towards a more sustainable future, this lightweight, natural material is highly sought after; its economical and eco-friendly designs have established itself as a frontrunner in sustainable product creation. Why, though, should we lean towards wooden creations rather than plastic and other synthetic products?
Of course, like many of wood’s natural counterparts, this material has been used for jewelry for centuries. In more modern times, the use of wood in fashion saw a burst in popularity in the 1930s and this went on until the 1950s. Mixed with plastic, glass and other materials, wood was used to create brooches, hat pins, and pendants. Some pieces were carved and painted and could be made by creatives at home or by jewelry companies. Many depression era manufacturers created wooden pieces that were comical and illustrated the artist’s great creativity. When plastics and other synthetics became popular in the late ‘50s and into the ‘60s, wooden pieces were forgotten as people were enthralled with the new, high tech products created by plastic molds. Despite this drop in circulation, wooden pieces are now attracting green fashion aficionados on account of their natural, sustainable style.
When creating wooden jewelry, the technique is based upon the grain of the wood; you work in the direction of the grain or across it, but never against it as it will crack the piece. To cut wood down to ones desired size, a gouge blade is uses to chip away the wood safely. Wood can enhance the beauty of a variety of other jewelry materials, included gemstones, bone, ivory, beads, and glass. Combining it with other organic materials can create unique designs that are typically carved by hand. Looking for a unique, environmentally conscious piece? Check out our selection of wooden accessories to get that natural feel without stepping a foot into the forest!
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Benefits of Buying Vintage and Secondhand Jewelry
Benefits of Buying Vintage and Secondhand Jewelry written by Morgan Watkins
With the rise of thrift shopping and selling apps like Depop and Poshmark, buying vintage has never been easier. The rising population of vintage shoppers continues to grow for a number of reasons, thanks to the beauty of older jewelry and the much more affordable price tags of secondhand items. What more is there to love about shopping vintage? Read on to find out!
Not to be mistaken with antique jewelry, which is characteristically defined as accessories that are at least one century old (some say 75+ years old), vintage jewelry is at least 20+ years old. Of course, vintage jewelry eventually becomes antique once it reaches that 100 year milestone, but for now, let’s talk about pieces that are under this timeframe. With vintage accessories, fashion lovers can add a classic, old fashion flair to an otherwise simple, contemporary look. While these pieces may be a few decades old, they’re still fresh enough to work with more modern styling without sticking out like an ancient, sore thumb.
One of the most important aspects to consider when shopping secondhand is the green factor. When you buy used jewelry or vintage items that have been pre-owned, you are not only building a fabulous accessory arsenal, but you’re also helping out the planet. Fast fashion, or fashion that is produced rapidly and in great quantities, is made cheaply for the sake of adhering to current trends. These items fall apart and go out of style faster than you can say “fast fashion”, which leads to tons and tons of fashion goods building up in our landfills every year.
According to Remake, 80% of discarded textiles end up in the landfill or incinerator, with just 20% actually being utilized or recycled. These goods can take around 200 painstaking years to actually break down, which makes it imperative that we, as consumers, begin adopting more responsible and resourceful ways of consuming fashion, starting with secondhand shopping.
Not only is buying secondhand jewelry better for the planet, but it’s also easier on your wallet. With fine jewelry like sterling silver necklaces and solid gold bracelets coming in at such massive price tags, jumping on pre-owned items of the same materials gives you way more bang for your buck while still giving consumers the opportunity to own pieces made with fabulous gemstones and precious metals. Vintage jewelry can be a bit pricey depending on where you’re shopping, but talkingfashion.net has plenty of affordable vintage deals to check out!
With today’s minimalistic, modern styling taking over, it’s hard to find unique jewelry that truly showcase individualistic personal style. Vintage pieces, however, offer up plenty of personality to electrify any look. Art Deco styles and theatrical accessories will help set any It Girl apart from the crowd with colorful palettes, geometric shapes and a chic, throwback aesthetic. But on a more sentimental note, owning an older piece with its own rich story allows fashionistas to carry a bit of history with them wherever they go. Vintage jewelry can be passed on from generation to generation, and as pieces become older, they become valuable, beloved family antiques.
From going green to saving green, vintage and secondhand jewelry options are perfect staples for a closet that is socially conscious and responsible. Unique pieces add a dash of individualism along with a glimpse into decades passed, creating looks that are timeless while still remaining on trend. If you’d like to hop on the vintage bandwagon, head over to talkingfashion.net to browse hundreds of classic accessories and styles, and feel free to help out the environment by consigning with us!
References:
McCarthy, Allison. “Are Our Clothes Doomed for the Landfill?” Remake, 22 Mar. 2018, http://remake.world/uncategorized/are-our-clothes-doomed-for-the-landfill/. Rizvi, Fauzia.
“The Difference between Antique & Vintage Jewelry ...anyone Know?”LinkedIn, 30 May 2016, https://www.linkedin.com/pulse/difference-between-antique-vintage-jewelry-anyone-know-fauzia-rizvi/.
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The History of Sustainable Fashion
The History of Sustainable Fashion by Morgan Watkins
With our planet warming and our landfills piling up all across the globe, talks of sustainable living has made room for itself at the dinner table in fashion society. The ever-booming business of fast fashion and the consumer attitude of obsessive excess has projected fashion in a negative light with regards going green initiatives. But many brands and designers are putting their foot down for a future that is as eco-friendly as it is fabulous. Read on to learn about the origins of green fashion and how industry giants are working towards a better, cleaner future.Back in ancient times, civilizations relied entirely on natural materials to construct their clothing. Garments were commonly made of animal hides, skins, furs and bones in order to utilize every part of the creatures they hunted. Leaves and twigs were other resources widely used to clothe individuals, until the practice of weaving came around in Egypt around 3400 B.C. Since then, a multitude of fabrics have been created from both natural and synthetic goods. Common examples of natural fabrics would be cotton and silk, which are characteristically better for the environment as they are made from products that will likely break down over time. Even so, some of these fabrics are treated with harmful chemicals, making them toxic for the environment. Synthetic textiles, which were first introduced in the late 19th century, are harmful to the planet due to their resistance to decompose; think nylon, acrylic and polyester.
(Image from http://www.experience-ancient-egypt.com/ancient-egyptian-culture/ancient-egyptian-life/ ancient-egyptian-clothes)
So when did the production of clothing become an environmental hazard? Let’s jump into the late 18th century, where the sewing machine was invented and factories were popping up rapidly across the United States. Before the Industrial Revolution, and even the decades following, it was common for families to construct their own clothing, which meant smaller closets and less textile waste. But as strip malls and department stores took over the country by the 20th century, post-war consumers were hungry for fast fashion. Corporations fed this hunger, employing child laborers to work long hours and in horrid conditions to produce large quantities of clothes in a short amount of time. Even when labor laws regulated factory conditions, the demand for fashion was through the roof, so production continued to match its pace.
(Image from https://bellatory.com/fashion-industry/Ready-to-Wear-A-Short-History-of-the-Garment-In dustry)
But by the 1960s, things started to change. With political movements surrounding civil rights and anti-Vietnam protests, people began to pay attention to other world issues like pollution, deforestation and a variety of other matters revolving around the planet and its wellbeing. It’s this era that produced the phrase “tree huggers,” as the first Earth Day was celebrated in April of 1970. With the rise of eco-friendly consciousness came the rise of DIY fashion. Hippies began taking on patchworking as a major fashion statement, sewing paisley printed panels into the sides of their bellbottoms to create an extra dramatic flared shape. The act of revamping old clothes and making them new carried over for decades, as bedazzling and embroidering was in during the 80s, 90s and even early 2000s.
(Image from https://www.neimanmarcus.com/p/ag-adriano-goldschmied-angel-high-waist-flare-jeans- 11-years-patchwork-prod180770241)
More recently, designers like Stella McCartney have begun to pave the way for a future in fashion that is eco-friendly and ethical. The brand uses only sustainable fabrics which won’t harm the planet, or uses recycled materials to create fabulous garments and accessories. Not only that but McCartney’s collections are 100% vegan, so you don’t have to fret about the designer’s fashion impact on animals and their ecosystems. Going hand in hand with this initiative is Vancouver and Seattle’s Eco Fashion Week. Similar to all other Fashion Weeks we know and love, this forum features collections that are Earth-conscious and sustainable. Shows first started in Vancouver, B.C. in 2010, where spring collections were sent down the runway. Fall collections were showcased as the event expanded into Seattle, Washington in 2016. Since the birth of this momentous fashion movement, 150 designers have been represented within 12 editions.
(Image from hype beast.com/2018/10/stella-mccartney-spring-summer-2019-runway-paris-fashion-week)
So what can you do to lessen your carbon footprint via fashion? Shop secondhand! Buying vintage or thrifted goods keeps clothes in your closet and out of landfills and incinerators. And if you have pieces you’re considering trashing, stop for a second and decide whether or not the garment can be spruced up or repurposed. Patchwork is in! Just look to Ralph Lauren and Jeremy Scott’s Spring/Summer 2019 collections for inspiration. Or practice adding some delicate floral embroidery to spruce up a simple white tee. Otherwise, donate your clothing to those in need, take them to a thrift store, or sell secondhand with talkingfashion.net! Every step you take towards going green makes a world of difference, no matter how big or small.
(Image from https://www.buro247.my/instagram/ralphlauren/13518279)
References:
Atamian, Luna. “Sustainable Fashion Is the Next Fashionable Thing.” Huffington Post, 12 Sept. 2017, https://www.huffingtonpost.com/entry/sustainable-fashion-is-the-next-fashionable-thing_ us_59b7e84de4b08f6632c076f9.
Farra, Emily. “Stella McCartney Discusses How Sustainable Fashion Can Be Sexy—And ‘How Technology Can Save Us.’” Vogue, 12 Oct. 2017, https://www.vogue.com/article/vogue-forces-of-fashion-stella-mccartney-sustainable. Gonzalez, Nyelli. “A Brief History of Sustainable Fashion.” Triple Pundit, 19 Feb. 2015,https://www.triplepundit.com/special/sustainable-fashion-2014/brief-history-sustainable-f ashion/.
Loewe, Emma. “Meet The Sustainable Fabrics That Will Kick-Start Your Capsule Wardrobe.” Mbg Planet,https://www.mindbodygreen.com/0-28720/meet-the-sustainable-fabrics-that-will-kickstar t-your-capsule-wardrobe.html.
