The Chinese Fashion Round Up

By Paige McKirahan

Nǐ hǎo, TalkingFashion readers! To continue our trip around the globe this month, we are making our way to China just in time for Chinese New Year! The holiday, which occurs on Tuesday, February 5^th, marks the turn of the traditional Chinese calendar and celebrates the change from the Year of the Dog to the Year of the Pig. Like many of its other fashionable counterparts, China boasts bustling streets full of style fit for the pages of Vogue; being fully immersed in the Influencer era, Chinese fashion moguls are capitalizing on their country’s blogging frenzy and creating digital empires across their diverse channel of thriving social media platforms. Read on to learn more about which of these bloggers are a must follow this season! 

 

Yuwei Zhangzou

 

 

 

This business woman comes from not-so-humble beginnings when she began her career as a blogger after receiving her MBA in marketing a prestigious Parisian university. Her love and knowledge of luxury brands gives her a creative, insightful edge, allowing her to integrate herself into the industry seamlessly. 

 

Margaret Zhang

This influencer is known best for not only wearing luxury brands, but being the creative mind behind them. Iconic labels like Louis Vuitton, Dior, and Chanel are just some of her high-profile collaborators and she is represented by IMG, solidifying her position in the industry tenfold.

 

 Jiaye Wu 

Jiaye Wu’s time in the fashion industry has been nothing less than emblematic. From being the first Chinese model to market Calvin Klein to representing Hermes, Yohji Yamamoto, and Balmain, she has surely found her claim to fame. She strives to maintain a presence in both the high fashion and down to earth blogger worlds and does it well due to the adoration of her thousands of plans. 

 

Becky Li 

 

 

This influencer and ambassador is an expert in digital marketing; after selling 100 Mini Coopers on her WeChat last year, she topped that feat with a collaboration with Rebecca Minkoff, selling out 1,200 bags in only two days. She then launched her own fashion brand and generated over 1 million in revenue in the label's two debut drops.

 

 Fil Xiaobai

 

 

This street style aficionado is making her emblematic mark on the Chinese fashion industry; after being the only female influencer to walk in Dolce & Gabbana’s A/W' 2017 show, she undoubtedly knows how to work the spotlight on and off the job. As a stylist to other high profile influences and celebrities, she has great knowledge of fashion practices and it shines through in her social media.

In addition to all of the innovative influencers on social media promoting their personal brands, there are a plethora of designers creating the pieces these bloggers are obsessing over. Read on to see five Chinese designers to watch in one of the fastest growing buyers’ markets in the world.

 

CJ Yao

 

 

This Shanghai-raised designer made their claim to fame from her talent gained in London’s Central Saint Martin’s design school. Their versatile pieces include vibrant color palettes and unusual fabric combinations that can work well on everyone from the average person to the runways highest paid models.

 

Samuel Guì Yang

 

Yang also came into his own in the same London design school; the skills he gained from his time there made him an industry “genius”, pushing him to launch his own label in 2015. His collections demonstrate his dedication to fashion, film, and fine art, showing his culture roots effortlessly in his designs.

 

Pronounce

 

 

Yushan Li and Jun Zhou are the dynamic duos behind one of Milan’s most dazzling brands. Both have had enigmatic careers, working from high profile brands like Yeezy to taking their genderless label to global runways.

 

Fengchen Wang 

 

 

As streetwear designers are quickly gaining traction in the high fashion world, Feng Chen Wang’s futuristic approach to outwear captures the attention of every Instagram blogger on your timeline. Her pieces drip with cool and her larger-than-life silhouettes boast reflective fabrics and prep school aesthetics fit for every fashionista.

 

deepmoss

 

 

Founded by Xialu Liu, this feminine label’s inspiration ranges from English chic to fine art pleats. She loves artistic motifs found in sculpture and in Kenyan Maasai culture, keeping followers on their toes when deciding who to collaborate with next!

If last week's Australian designers and influencers provided you with some inspiration for your spring follow lists, this week's designers are sure to pique your interest with their eclectic creations and practices. Check out their collections at the links above and check out what Chinese inspired designs we have right here in our shops!

Sources:

A Fashion Year in Review

By Paige McKirahan

 

As 2018 is coming to a close and everyone is making big plans for 2019, we here at TalkingFashion thought it would be remiss to not shed light on some of the industry’s favorite books, blogs, and moguls from this year. Whether you’re looking for those last minute gifts for late holiday parties or trying to find the perfect obsession to carry over into the new year, we’ve got you covered!

When it comes to fashion in literature, there is no shortage of publications covering everything from history to technical design. Read on to see our top books of 2018 that are sure to be a coffee table hit!

 

For the history buff:

Francesca Liberatore is a biographical novel discussing the life of Italian designer who worked for some of the most infamous fashion houses in couture history, including one belonging to none other than Jean-Paul Gaultier. Even though this title is not yet published (release date February 2^nd, 2019), it is highly anticipated by fashion readers all over the globe.

Ferris Bueller: Catharsis is a photographic novel showing the fashionable archives found in one’s childhood bedroom located in Queens, New York. The room, which belonged to marketing consultant Rodney Bailey, shows us how styles survive the test of time and how some don’t share a similar fate.

 

 

Stephanie Pfriender Stylander: The Untamed Eye dissects how photographer Stephanie Stylander navigated the wild climate of the fashion industry in the 1990s. She was, at the very least, one of the most cinematic photographers of her time and she worked with all of the greats not only in fashion, but in the entertainment industry as well.

Tudors to Windsors shows 500 years of British royalty depicted in photographs and other artworks, exploring dynasties by year and fashion. These images embrace how the royals they display would have been interpreted based upon the popular culture and contemporary styles of the time, offering great insight into portraiture and trends. 

 

For the model and subject obsessed:

Overworked Body #2: An Anthology of 2000s Dress features a complication of photos that have been recreated based upon iconic interpretations of fashion from the past two decades. These reimaginations are so popular that the book has been out of stock consistently since its release.

 

 

Posturing aims to discuss aesthetics in fashion shoots and how models and photographers work with the body to create visually stimulating image. It tells readers how these positions work to tell stories and discusses how what the body means is ever evolving. 

Schoeller: Close bounds 120 portraits featuring some of the world’s most famous people across all mediums ranging from fashion and politics to entertainment, and sports. These up close and personal shots are all have identical compositions, but also have different moods because of the subjects’ different looks.

 

For the design lovers:

 

 

Hermes Pop-Up is the quintessential pop up for fashion lovers; its annual release illustrates the luxury brand’s upcoming creative direction for the year in the most stimulating way. The book expands on their iconic scarf designs and has now become a beloved tradition that began in 1987 for the brand’s 150^th anniversary. This year’s theme? Lets Play!

Jewellery: Art Nouveau to 3D Printing aims to present a comprehensive collection of jewelry and its respective designers starting at the beginning of the 20^th century and spanning to the present. It examines pieces from all around the globe that are made from a multitude of materials and explores the influence of art movements on the design of these jewels.

Italian Tailoring discusses the longstanding traditions and technical practices in Italian garment making. The longstanding legacy of elegant, good styling and appreciation is widely associated with Italian pieces and this insider view profiles 28 iconic tailoring shops in Italy and the designers that created them.

 

Moving on to our favorite blogs (other ours, of course), it seems that 2018 was truly the year that this genre of writing became overtly popular. From moms to fashion moguls, everyone wants to share their thoughts on a wide range of topics. Continue on to find your newest favorite blogger to add to your reading list!

 

Modest Mira

This Manchester based stylist and influencer draws in readers with her fun language and captions, showing that you don’t have to comprise style when dressing modestly.

Slip Into Style

Ellie, a Parisian influencer, has an cool-girl aesthetic to die for. From her blog to her Instagram, her urban luxe look stuns readers and she fearlessly mixes materials and trends to create stunning ensembles.

Caro Daur

Caroline Daur, fashion blogger and Instagram superstar, is having quite the year as she has just hit 1.2 million followers in addition to being handpicked by Stefano himself to walk in Dolce & Gabbana’s Milan Fashion Week Show. Her ever changing style keeps readers hooked and her affinity for fun fashion makes it easy to see why she's a blog favorite.

Work Work Work

Katherine Ormerod is the genius behind the fashion, life, and career blog that gives readers great insight into cool-girl niche brands everyone crazes over before they become mainstream. Her chic, everyday style makes you want to hit the mall and her fashion savvy attitude is one that captures the public with ease.  

Margaret Zhang

This Chinese-Australian blogger does it all; Zhang is photographer, director, stylist, and writer (a woman of all trades!) based out of New York and is taking the fashion world by storm. Breaking the mold of the typical fashion girl, this law graduate can do it all while strutting in Saint Laurent boots. 

Look De Pernille

When Pernille Teisback launched her namesake blog in 2012, her sleek Scandinavian looks captivated thousands of readers across the world. This Copenhagen native provides your one stop shop for all upcoming street style trends, and her Instagram proves that she can put her tips into action.

Helena Bordon

As one of the industry’s most influential writers and fashionistas, this São Paulo native is the daughter of Vogue Brazil's style director. Her fashionable roots shine through as she is now a blogger and co-founder of popular high fashion streetwear brand, 284. 

SheWearsFashion

Kavita Donkersley, a fashion icon who hails from London, coverts around the globe with a high fashion wardrobe that every fashion lover dreams of. She has been a staple blogger now for several years and readers have loved watching her style evolve over time. 

 

WeWoreWhat

 

 

Danielle Bernstein is a New York based fashion blogger who is the source of our favorite fashion inspo. With her handy tagged items and cool, clean aesthetic, it's not hard to understand why she has such a cult following. 

NotJessFashion

Another great source of enthralling outfit inspiration, this Big Apple blogger stuns with her advice covering everything from style tips to guides for upcoming bloggers. Her unique photos and empowering voice inspires her followers to be confident in their fashion choices and they love her for it!

 

Lastly, as the year of the influencer comes to a end, I am sure we all follow a few Instagram stars with fabulous wardrobes and style. Let these fashionistas profiles do the talking and check out this years biggest industry influencers below!

 

Alexa Chung

 

 

Julia Engel

 

Chiara Ferragni

 

Gabi Gregg

 

Jenn Im

 

Gala Gonzalez

 

Olivia Palermo

 

Leandra Medine

 

Garance Doré

 

Jeanne Damas

 

 

There you have it, fashion lovers! We hope you have found a new interest from seeing all of these amazing fashionable creatives, because we sure did! This year of fashion will be hard to top, but we are more excited than ever to see what 2019 has in store for us! 

 

Sources:

Pioneering the Scarf Industry 

By Paige McKirahan

Seeing as how we have already learned the history behind the magnificent accessory, we begun to wonder about the designers who paved the way for scarves to become the classic piece that they are today. Hermes, of course, burst onto the scene with their wonderful silk designs that exuded luxury and wealth, capturing the attention of everyone from starlets to the everyday person. But what about the other popular designers that took the piece and molded it into something of their own? Read on to hear of our favorite scarf designers and brands throughout time (and to find some of their pieces in our shop!)

Glentex

When the brand first stepped onto the scene in 1939, it emerged under the umbrella of the Glendser Textile Co. that received its first registered trademark for lady’s scarves and handkerchiefs. In the following decades up into the 1970s, Glentex became increasingly popular and was widely known for their beaded collars and vibrant patterns. Many pieces were made in Japan out of a wide variety of fabrics, including silk and rayon. At the height of their popularity, they even partnered with our beloved Schiaparelli and Gloria Vanderbilt to create high fashion pieces!

Totes

This brand, which was popularized by their easy-to-carry rainboots, hails from our home state of Ohio! Specializing in rainwear and waterproof accessories, Totes truly began in 1942 and shot to fame after they introduced the first collapsible umbrella in 1970. From there on out, they began creating other popular rainwear, including the coveted water resistant scarf. This supermarket and drugstore brand is still operating today and boasts a large collection of colorful, waterproof accessories that even high fashion lovers love to sport!

Echo 

After its conception in the ‘20s, Echo began building an impressive arsenal of patterns that would build rapport until the late ‘70s when the scarf business began to see a decline. When the creators' daughter, Dorothy, took over the company after her husband’s death, she was determined to beat the dwindling sales and did just that in 1983 when the brand made its way into the European market. After a slew of licensing agreements with fashion and home goods giants like Ralph Lauren and Laura Ashley, the company began releasing more accessories and home furnishings that expanded their profits and popularity exponentially. Today, it is still privately owned by the family and this emerging lifestyle brand still celebrates their humble roots with their 95 anniversary just having passed in September. In their blog commemorating the event, they even go as far as saying that they feel responsible for bringing the scarf to the world of fashion (Bold statement! Do you agree?) 

 

Vera

Though there seems to be many famous Vera’s in the fashion industry (think Bradley and Wang), Vera Neumann is one of the most iconic of them all; her namesake brand made beautiful art affordable and not just a thing to be admired on the wall. With all of her scarf designs being based upon original paintings, it is evident that Vera had creative roots in textiles and illustration. When she began a silkscreen printing company with her husband George and their friend Frederick, it saw almost immediate success. In the midst of World War II, the growing company was looking for ways to continue manufacturing product despite heavy rations; she stumbled upon some parachute silk at an army surplus store and voila! Her scarf business was born. She created the first signature scarf in history with her name transferred to every product, making her a household favorite with recognition all around the country. Marilyn Monroe, Grace Kelly, and even the First Lady Bess Truman loved her designs as she requested the "Vera" fabric be used in White House Decor. Her iconic presence in both the art and fashion worlds landed her work in the Metropolitan Museum of Art, The Museum of History and Technology, and the Museum of Modern Art. She was even commissioned to paint the Foucault Pendulum in the Smithsonian, which can still be seen hanging in their offices today.

Elaine Gold

As one of the industry’s most knowledgeable scarf entrepreneurs, Elaine Gold got her start as Vera’s assistant where she was the studio business manager tasked with helping develop and market the scarf business. 19 years later, she joined another budding scarf business, Robinsons & Colluber, where she was one of the first to make waves in brand marketing for the scarf industry. She then joined another one of our designer favorites, Totes, and ran their XIIX Karats brand that she eventually bought in 1983. Changing its name to Collection XIIX, she built it into a powerhouse with licenses from Anne Klein and Jones New York. When Drew Pizzo bought her company in the ‘90s, she went on to create Elaine Gold Enterprises, which found its first license with the US Postal Service! She worked with the Met, Vera Bradley, and essentially anyone in the industry looking to promote their scarves as she was the “go to” expert in the field.

Though there are a wide variety of other scarf designers that paved the way for today’s successors, these are some of our favorites. In addition, Avon, Paoli, and Burmel created high quality designs that were affordable and can be seen in vintage shops all over the world. On the higher end, Valentino, Missoni, and Givenchy all have been creating luxury scarves adored by the industry for decades. To purchase any of these brands, check out our links throughout this post or search our collection to find some hidden gems of your own! 

The SS ’19 Scarf Revival

By Paige McKirahan

Is the impending cold weather giving you the winter blues before the season has even begun? Are you already scrambling to find gifts for your friends, whether they be fashion experts or trend amateurs? Scramble no longer, TalkingFashion readers; we have a wide collection of the one of the best spring 2019 trends that are sure to wow everyone on your list. As we have finally reached the conclusion of Fashion Month, bloggers and high profile magazines alike have begun to rounding up of the most prominent accessories seen gliding down runways this past September. They all have one favorite in common: the scarf. Across the globe, designers seemed to adore scarves whether they be fashioned into bags, wrapped around heads or even sewn together to make clothing.

In Paris, designers took scarf design to a new level when prints and fabrics commonly used for the accessory were instead fashioned to create clothing. Chloe loved the trend and attached long, flowing scarves to belts, giving us superhero chic with her feminine collection. Marine Serre and Ottolinger also boasted scarf like designs as many pieces in their collections emulated classic scarf motifs with ease. The bright colors, flowing silhouettes, and expressive patterns were visually stimulating and offered a new take on the classic aesthetic.

  

 

Ottolinger and Chloe SS’19

(photo credit to accessoriesmagazine.com)

Though runways in Paris boasted versatile ways to wear scarves, the most popular use for these fantastic pieces seemed to revolve around the head. Though it may appear that head-covering accessories are some of the most divisive in the fashion community, it is clear that designers agree that this long standing trend is here to stay. Tom Ford and Michael Kors alike featured a wide variety of head wraps with color palettes ranging from minimalistic chic to vibrant couture. Kate Spade’s SS ‘19 collection is quite possibly the most scarf filled of them all as almost every single model strutting down her runway was adorned with the fabric pieces around their neck or their heads. Whether you’re looking to accessorize your hair in style or simply elevate a look with ease, scarves offer a fashionable option that even the style amateurs in your life can rock!

 

 

Michael Kors, Tom Ford, and Kate Spade SS ‘19

(Image credits to elle.com)

 

 

Scarves Throughout Time

 By Paige McKirahan 

 

Calling all scarf lovers! Have you ever wondered how this beloved trend came into circulation? Well, wonder no more! With origins tracing their way back to ancient Eastern cultures, the high-brow accessory has come a long way since its days of being used as a sweat cloth!

The use of a scarf as an accessory is said to be pioneered by none other than Queen Nefertiti in 1350 BC Egypt; the headscarf at that time was a status symbol that alluded to royalty and nobility, both of which were qualities possessed by the Queen. She is said to have worn a tightly woven scarf (or scarf-like fabric) under her iconic cone-shaped headpiece. China used the scarf as a symbol of status as well, but in the military more than in government or with royalty. Scarves were used as early as 1000 BC in Chinese military uniform to denote rank; higher ranks typically had scarves made of finer materials and lower ranks were cut from fabrics like cotton. It also has less glamorous roots in Rome, where its general purpose was not for style, but to help people keep clean. The utilitarian version of the scarf was used primarily in 10 AD as a sweat cloth with men wearing them so often that they became an accessory. They were worn either around the neck, draped over the shoulder, or knotted around the waist (similar to how they’re worn today!)

 

Chinese military statues illustrating the use of scarves around the neck, showing rank

(image credits to collegefashion.net)

As time progressed, scarves began transforming into something that was less functional and more fashionable. It is said that Napoleon gifted his wife Josephine a pashmina scarf upon his return from Egypt. At first, she was weary of the gift as it was exotic and not something that was typically worn in their culture (yet). Despite this, she is noted to have become an avid collector, accumulating over 400 scarves in three years that totaled to be worth around $80,000! When the cravat stepped on the scene in Paris in the 17^th century, it emulated military styling in the way that it was tied around the neck or, on occasion, brought up around the bottom half of the face. The French Revolution popularized this style and encouraged wearers to experiment with color and style to demonstrate their devotion to a particular side.

 

A French Cravat

(image credit google.com)

From this point on, scarves began to make their way into the mainstream, especially after Queen Victoria’s ascension to the throne. In the early 1800s, she regularly wore glamorous silk scarves and shawls featuring a variety of eccentric patterns. This 19^th century boom in popularity pushed manufacturers to experiment with a multitude of fabrics including cloth, cashmere, wool mixes, muslin, modal and of course, silk. Following this, the First World War transformed knitting from a hobby to a war duty, and women all over the world knitted scarves for soldiers in the air and in the trenches. Pilots used both knitted and silk scarves, with the silk providing protection from neck chafing.

 

Queen Victoria in blue silk scarf

 (photo credit to hi-fi-audio.com)

Quite possibly one of the most important contributions to the widespread fame of the scarf was made by Thierry Hermes’ fashion house; in 1937, the French designer created the first luxury silk scarf, which was crafted from imported raw Chinese silk. The raw material was woven into high quality fabric that was stronger and heavier than any other scarf material of the time. For the final touch, images and patterns would be hand-printed onto the piece to turn them into beautiful, vibrant accessories. Though the scarves were coveted by many, they were widely unaffordable on account of their expensive construction. When rayon was invented in the 1930s, it perfectly mimicked silk for a fraction of the price; this advancement allowed more people to become involved with the trend. The outbreak of World War II forced this material to be rationed, and scarves became more of a necessity rather than a fun addition to an outfit. Women operating machinery needed a way to secure their long hair to ensure it would not be swept away, prompting them to wear the scarves to do so.

 

First Hermes scarf c. 1937

(photo credit to vintagefashionguide.com)

Nevertheless, scarves returned to their glamorous origins after the war when Hermes beloved style became a favorite of the globe’s most well know starlets. Audrey Hepburn and Brigitte Bardot both wore them either around the neck or on the head; Hepburn loved the style and even went as far as saying, “When I wear a silk scarf I never feel so definitely like a woman, a beautiful woman.” The Princess Grace Kelly herself wore a silk scarf on a 1956 cover for LIFE magazine, and made headlines when she used one as an arm sling later in the year. Even Queen Elizabeth II wore a Hermes scarf when photographed for postage stamps, and loved the style so much that she continues sporting it to this day!

 

Queen Elizabeth and Grace Kelly in Hermes designs

(photo credits pinterest.com) 

This revival pushed scarves reputation as a luxury accessory and many fashion houses took it with stride as they began transferring their signature patterns, logos, and styles onto to fabrics. This continued through the ‘80s, but in the ‘90s, the market moved away from silk scarves and the public began searching for more innovative accessories. In the 2000s, we have seen some scarf revivals, especially in the past few years as many are beginning to favor vintage styles rather than modern aesthetics. Many “it” girls will now tie scarves around their necks, or even tie them to handbags to make them stand out from the crowd! Regardless of trend, we here at TalkingFashion have been scarf lovers from the start! If you want to emulate royalty or are simply looking for a stylish way to hold back your hair, check out our scarf collection; there is sure to be something for everyone from scarf savants to doubtful debutantes!