The Heady History of the Hand Fan

By Paige McKirahan 

When considering all of the accessories that are used for both utilitarian and decorative purposes, one of the first to come to mind is that of the hand fan. Though this ornamental piece was widely popular in Victorian Eras as a foreign symbol of wealth and class, their origin lies centuries prior in ancient Egypt, Greece, and Rome. After two elaborate fans were discovered in King Tut’s tomb, their gilded appearance solidified the fan’s prominent presence in the accessory world.

(photo credits to pinterest.com)

The fan, which was originally thought be a sacred instrument, was used in religious ceremonies and by royalty in noble settings. They were also used in China in association with ancient mythical and historical characters. At their conception, they were fixed and remained as so until Chinese culture birthed the folding fan and spread it westward towards Europe. Both Chinese and Japanese legends credit their respective countries with creating the piece; the Japanese feel that the folding style is modeled after the wings of bat, and the Chinese legend claims the idea stemmed from a woman fanning her face at a festival.

(photo credits to clickpicx.com) 

The 17^th century then saw an increase in the use of folding fan, eventually causing fixed fans to become obsolete. This style was brought to Western cultures by merchant traders and religious missionaries, and prompted the development of the printed fan, which was made available to all classes. They generally featured prints of all kinds, either painted or transferred on, and shifted from biblical tradition to contemporary pastimes. The Impressionist, Art Nouveau, and Art Deco movements highly impacted the design and construction of fans from the 19^th to the 20^th century . The 19^th century boast some of the most lavish fan designs in history and they were usually hand painted, furnishing those in royal positions. In the 20^th century, feathered fans became popularized by those in high society and ostrich plums could be see floating through the air at every Moulin Rouge show!

Even though fans are not presently part of the everyday fashionista’s accessory arsenal, they still can be seen at royal events and in haute couture shows. We here at TalkingFashion think that something so grand should never go out of style, so to get your own fashionable fan, check out our fantastic collection here!

Sources:

History of Fans. (n.d.). Retrieved from https://www.thefanmuseum.org.uk/fan-history

A Brief History of the Hand Fan. (2008). Retrieved from https://web.ics.purdue.edu/~salvo/@SEA/exhibit/history.asp

Folk Art in Fashion Culture: Folk Couture

By Paige McKirahan

When evaluating the vast number of art movements that have influenced fashion and design for centuries, it seems like the list of inspirational aesthetics is never-ending. From Art Nouveau to Art Deco, we have seen the line between art and fashion become blurred; the Folk Art movement is no exception and has undoubtedly enjoyed its own transition into the fashion industry. So much, in fact, that the American Folk Art museum created an entire exhibit dedicated to this assimilation. The “Folk Couture: Fashion and Folk Art” show, which was first introduced in early in 2014, called upon 13 couturiers to create one of a kind designs that correlate with specific pieces in their art collection. The connection between the two may not always be overtly evident, forcing the viewer to truly consider the pieces and how they have similar characteristics. Yes, some specific motifs from the art that inspired the clothing piece are used, but there are no direct translations of the artworks incorporated into the pieces.

Jean Yu’s chiffon dress and its inspiration, Porcupine, created by David Alvarez in 1981

(photo credits to artnews.com)

Fashion may be the hook to reel in some visitors, but the pieces in no way overshadow the art; instead, they complement the work rather than distract from it. The designers chosen by guest curator Alexis Carreño to design and create these fashion pieces are overwhelming eclectic. Even if they do not normally design pieces with folk art in mind, they all had a great eye as to what aesthetics would transition well into fashion and wowed spectators with their work.

Art often envelops fashion and vice versa; we see this cannibalistic practice illustrated with folk quilts being made of clothing scraps and folk painters like Ammi Phillips looking to fashion in print for posing inspiration. In a city where fashion reigns and museums are always looking for ways to draw in patrons, the American Folk Art Museum proved that other New York museums can incorporate fashion into their galleries successfully (and without the help of Anna Wintour). Feeling inspired by folk aesthetics but not looking to create your own gallery-inspired piece? Check out our collections to find some accessories that are already made and ready for you to purchase!