Picturesque Pearls: A Style Guide

By Paige McKirahan

 

With wedding season well on its way, we wanted to take a look at one of our favorite elegant motifs in accessories for these upcoming warm weather months. Since pearls first made their way into the realm of jewelry, they have been the true symbol of class and superiority; seeing has how the pearl is the world's oldest gemstone with traces back to 420 BC, this elitist undertone has deep historical roots. In the Byzantine empire, for example, it was dictated that only the emperor was permitted to wear pearls with other societies having similar laws. Until the 20th century, pearls were considered to be one of the most valuable gems on the market all over the globe; prior to this time, all pearls were naturally found in wild mollusks, making them more rare and coveted than ever.

 

Oldest pearl necklace in existence on display at the Louvre (source)

 

In ancient Greek culture and at the height of the Roman Empire, pearls were worn on gowns, necklaces, and were even used to decorate furniture in wealthy households. It was even said that Cleopatra preferred pearl jewelry above all others, and she went as far as dissolving one of her most priceless pairs of pearl earrings in a glass of wine before drinking it! This ancient popularity led to pearls being extremely favorable with the monarchy; pearls of all shape and color varieties were widely sought after, and many were coming directly from the Persian Gulf. The 16th century in England was even referred to as the Pearl Age, perfectly reflecting the gemstone's prestige at the time.

 

Cleopatra Dissolving the Pearl in Wine, Andrea Casali (source)

 

In the Victorian Age, seed pearls became more favorable than any of their counterparts on account of the fact that their small size made them perfect for jewelry and other accessories. They are typically no larger than 2mm in diameter, and they were widely associated with pure ideals. Royal love of pearls continued for generations, with Queen Victoria having an affinity for all things pearl. Prince Albert gifted her a pair of drop-style pearl earrings in 1847, and these are now owned and proudly worn by the reigning monarch, Elizabeth II.

It wasn't until the late 1800s that pearls became a widely accessible material; in 1893, Kokicho Mikimoto discovered how to create cultured pearls, prompting the creation of over 350 pearl farms across Japan by 1935. This caused a widespread pearl mania that perfectly complemented contemporary culture all throughout the 1900s. From Coco Chanel's iconic 1936 portrait to Audrey Hepburn's emblematic look in Breakfast at Tiffany's, pearls became a true symbol of luxury. This sophisticated aesthetic shifted with Alber Elbaz at the helm of Lanvin, where he reimagined the gemstones as a "cool girl" motif rather than something you would find in your grandmother's jewelry box. He truly spun their reputation into something journalists felt were "not like your mother's pearls", and the gemstone has been present in haute couture ever since.

 

Coco Chanel and Audrey Hepburn in pearls (source)

 

Now that we know the history behind the eponymous stone, its time to evaluate the types of pearls. They can now be produced in a variety of different ways, with each having its own special set of characteristics! Whether they are natural or cultured, they are formed when a mollusk produces layers of nacre around molecules inside of the shell. The quality of the nacre is what controls the level of the pearls shine, which can cause it to decrease or increase in value. High-quality pearls should be smooth and blemish free, with shapes ranging from round to misshapen. Misshapen pearls are considered to be baroque, after the art movement. Lastly, a pearl set in necklaces can be uniform with all pearls at the same size, or graduated, meaning they change uniformly from the end to the center. With this education in mind, let's take a look at the specific types of pearls on the market!

 

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Natural Pearls

Natural pearls are the rarest type, with many historically being found in the Persian Gulf. Though many have already been harvested, you may be able to purchase these small gemstones, but they will cost you a pretty penny!

Cultured Pearls

Cultured pearls are grown in farms, with the mollusks containing them being raised until they reach the point of being able to accept the mother-of-pearl bead nucleus. The pearl technician then implants the bead and returns the mollusk to water to form the gem. Not all cultured pearls are of high quality, and it can take tens of thousands of pearls to compile a group similar enough to use in jewelry.

Saltwater Pearls

Many countries grow cultured pearls in their saltwater seas. Japan and China produce cultured pearls that can range from 2 mm to 10mm in size, and are usually white in color. Australia, Indonesia, and the Philippines produce the largest of all cultured pearls. They are considered the "South Sea pearl" and can get up to 20 mm with colors ranging from white to cream to gold. There are also saltwater pearls grown in the islands of French Polynesia, with their sizes ranging from 8mm to 16mm. They can be naturally black, but they typically can be gray, blue, green, or purple.

Freshwater Pearls

Freshwater pearls mostly hail from China and are grown in lakes, rivers, and ponds all over the continent. Many are white and similar in size to Akoya pearls in size and shape, and usually, have a thicker nacre on account of them not having a bead nucleus.

Imitation Pearls

Imitation pearls usually have a high luster and are coated glass beads. You can tell these apart from cultured or natural pearls, but it may prove to be difficult based upon how the pearls were treated. For tips on how to analyze your pearls, click here!

We hope that this gave you a better insight into all things pearls! We now have a little bit of pearl mania and if you do too, be sure to check out our selection of pearl accessories!

 

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Festival Style: Coachella Essentials

By Paige McKirahan

 

As temperatures heat up and summer music begins to flood our all of our Spotify feeds, many have the season’s upcoming festivals on the mind. From Governor’s Ball to Lollapalooza, the warm weather also brings festival style that is wild, bohemian, and full of fashion forward aesthetics. In honor of Coachella, one of the most iconic annual festivals that the United States has to offer, we wanted to check out some of the best festival accessories that the industry has to offer! This musical event’s two weekends of fun make for many Instagrammable moments, so read on to see how we here at TalkingFashion would accessorize our festival fits to stand out in a sea of flower crowns!

Cool Sunglasses 

Stylish sunnies top our list as one of the most necessary festival accessories for reasons we feel are quite obvious. Protecting your eyes from the sun and accessorizing your festival fit to perfection can be done in one foul swoop using a great pair of cool girl frames. Never miss a moment of the fun blinded by the sun! 

Hands-Free Bags

Keeping track of all of your items in a large crowd of people may seem like a daunting task, but with the help of a hands-free bag, all of your stuff will be safe and secure! Carrying around a cross body bag is another great alternative, but with a fanny pack secured tightly around you waist, you’ll never have to worry about losing the bag itself along with all of its contents!

Western Motifs 

Western-inspired looks are extremely common at summer festival events, so why not participate in one of the season’s hottest trends and add a little western flair of your own into your festival fashion fits? Large belt buckles, cowboy hats, fringe, and turquoise are all easy ways to incorporate this cowboy aesthetic into any outfit without looking like you came right from an episode of West World!

Scarves, Scarves, and More Scarves

We have seen a huge headscarf revival this spring season, and we think that scarves are a great way to take any outfit to the next level in one easy step! Whether you choose to tie one around your neck or use one a way to keep your hair from flying in the Valley winds, a scarf is sure to be one of the “it” festival accessories for summer 2019.

Long Necklaces

When it comes to what jewelry compliments bohemian festival style the most, I always look for long, stackable necklaces to bring the heat! This style can make you look as if you an accessories aficionado without much effort and can offer a pop of color to a light, flowy fit.

What is your favorite festival accessory? If you love any of the ones above, click on the photo to buy just in time for festival season to go into full swing! Happy fest fun, TalkingFashion readers! Remember to wear what you love, everyday (and wear you best to Coachella Valley this weekend!)

Jewelry as an Art Form

By Paige McKirahan 

 

Fashion, as well as many other venues of design, has begun to blur the line between what is art and what is not; as jewelry is created and designed with many of the similar processes as sculptures and paintings, we would be foolish to not deem these pieces as a form of artistic expression. Jewelry can be the main visual event in any ensemble, fascinating the eyes and overloading the senses in a way that the David by Michelangelo may enthrall a museum patron at the Galleria dell'Accademia. There are so many artists and jewelry designers alike that have created wearable art that falls into neither (or both!) the fashion or fine art categories, creating a new form that appeals to all facets of the industry. Now you may be left asking “who are these designers?”, so we here at TalkingFashion have prepared a dazzling list of these artists that are sure to pique your interest and prepare you for the fast approaching MET Gala this May.

 

Pablo Picasso 

You likely know this artist for his industry-altering contributions to the art world, but many people do not know he experimented with many different medias; from sculptures to jewelry, he was truly the jack of all artistic trades. His one of kind pieces are few and far between, and their eclectic composition and mysterious existence make these works highly sought after. His most popular motifs include satyrs, minotaurs, bulls, and bullfighting, with his other pieces including imagery relevant to who he created the piece for.

 

Silver “Satyr” Pendant, Pablo Picasso (source) 

 

Salvador Dali

This patron of the surrealist movement has roots in the fashion industry through multiple high-profile collaborations with designers like our beloved Schiaparelli. In 1941, he invited Coco Chanel’s jewelry designer, Duke Fulco di Verdura, to discuss a collaboration that turned into a tremendous success. Many of the pieces mimicked Dali’s paintings with a refined opulence that turned their wearers into works of art themselves! Most of these works are now on display at the Dali Museum in Spain, and he summarized these jeweled masterpieces like this: “To history, they will prove that objects of pure beauty, without utility but executed marvelously, were appreciated in a time when the primary emphasis appeared to be upon the utilitarian and the material.” 

 

An array of Dali jewelry pieces (source)

 

Robert Lee Morris

This sculptor and jewelry designer has made huge waves in the fashion industry with his art jewelry and collaborations with Geoffrey Beene, Kansai Yamamoto, Calvin Klein, Anne Klein, Karl Lagerfeld, Michael Kors and Donna Karan. His true claim to fame was a 1976 Vogue cover; the magazine featured his work in their publication over a period of 7 years in 49 consecutive issues. He is the first fine jewelry designer to receive the first jewelry designer to ever be awarded the Geoffrey Beene Lifetime Achievement Award from the Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA), and his contribution to the art world has gained him many other high profile partnerships and industry nominations!

 

Robert Lee Morris piece on the cover of Vogue (source)

 

Georges Braque

 As a pioneer of the cubist movement alongside the other highly revered artist-turned designer Picasso, Braque is considered to be one of the most dynamic artists of the 20^th century. He treated his jewels as if they were miniature sculptures, with each possessing their own personality. He commonly including natural motifs that depicted humans, fish, horses, and birds, and were considered to be some of the most beautiful fine jewelry creations of their time. His most well-known collection uses the image of a bird in flight throughout multiple jewelry styles, and they bring in tens of thousands of dollars in auctions across the globe!

Georges Braque, 1960s (source) 

 

Alexander Calder

Calder, who is most famous for his creation of the mobile, is an iconic sculptor who stunned the art world when he began creating his larger than life mobile jewelry pieces. His affinity for abstraction and casual grandeur shined through in his designs, and he created over 2000 works including pieces for famous friends Joan Miró and Peggy Guggenheim. His wire-shaped works are considered to be wearable sculptures and can take any look to a new level.

 

Alexander Calder necklace (source)

 

If these artists have piqued your interests and you would like to see some of this art in action, check out this list of museums that will allow you to get up close and personal with these beautiful works!

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Guccio Gucci the Great: Five Facts About Fashion’s Finest

By Paige McKirahan 

 

As a plethora of designer birthdays are on the horizon this spring, we wanted to remember one of our favorites that were born on March 26^th; Guccio Gucci, the infamous creative mind behind the House of Gucci was born in 1881 in Florence, Italy to a family with a history in leather craftsmanship. Though Guccio passed away over 50 years ago in 1953, his eponymous namesake brand lives on and continues to dominate the luxury market. Prior to his death, he remained at the head of the brand and molded Gucci into the haute couture powerhouse that it is today. Read on to find out some fast facts about this fashion favorite and brush up on your industry trivia!

 

In 1921, Gucci opened his first shop in Florence, Italy

Guccio and his son Rodolfo in front of an early Gucci store, 1938 (source) 

This first leather-focused boutique laid the foundation for the House of Gucci as its quality goods allowed Guccio to build a reputation around his dedication to detail. He was known to employ only the best craftsmen from his neighborhood, and he created small leather accessories that quickly garnered him local fame.

 

In 1932, he created the "it" loafer.

After word began to spread about his brand, many people were traveling all over the world to purchase his designs in Florence. During this time, he created the loafer shoe with a gilded snaffle; this was the first of its kind and became such a staple in everyday footwear to this day is still the only shoe on display in New York's Museum of Modern Art.

Guccio and his wife, Aida, had a large family.

The Gucci Family (source)

Lucky for the Gucci's, they easily could keep the company in the family as their six children- four sons and two daughters- were the perfect successors. Following Guccio's death, his four sons, Aldo, Ugo, Vasco, and Rodolf, dramatically took over operations at the fashion house.

 

Guccio introduced the iconic bamboo handled bag in 1947.

Gucci bamboo patent form (source)

As the brand's first iconic bag, this accessory made huge waves in the industry as it was a previously unseen style. This design has been a mainstay at the company since its conception and is a popular choice by modern fashionistas all over the world.

Guccio's brand is owned by Kering.

The Gucci brand is now owned by a parent company with an affinity for luxury fashion. In addition to Gucci, Kering also owns Bottega Veneta, Yves Saint Laurent, Sergio Rossi, Stella McCartney and Alexander McQueen! Who would not love to be a part of this exclusive club?

We hope that these fast fashion facts gave you a new look into the life of Guccio Gucci and that you learned something new with us at TalkingFashion today! For a timeline of Guccio's life, click here!

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Alexander McQueen: A Couturier's Timeline

By Paige McKirahan

 

 

It is very seldom that a designer steps into the fashion industry and stuns icons with such grace as Alexander McQueen. In celebration of his life, we have elected to spotlight this amazing fashion contributor as his day of birth is fast approaching. The couturier and fashion icon was born on the 17^th of March, 1969 in London as the youngest of six siblings. After leaving school at the young age of 16 to pursue apprenticeships with a variety of high-profile tailors like Gieves and Hawkes that were masters of technical clothing construction. This experience was followed by time with Angels and Bermans, where he mastered a variety of pattern cutting techniques, including the razor-sharp style that has become synonymous with the McQueen brand. After this transformative stint, he became employed by tailor and designer Koji Tatsuno for close to a year before he traveled to Milan to be Romeo Gigli’s design assistant. During these apprenticeships, he also attended the Rosetta Art Centre, where he received a recommendation from Yvonne Humble that sent him on to the MA fashion course at Central Saint Martins College of Art and Design. The skills that he learned during his time in these positions quickly earned him a high-class reputation in the industry as a designer with an affinity for flawlessly tailored designs.

This reputation was carried with him to St. Martins, where he was encouraged by the head of his course there to enroll as a student and receive a master's degree in fashion. He went on to do just that, and his 1992 graduate collection was so emblematic that the iconic stylist Isabella Blow famously purchased it in its entirety. Blow became a sort of mentor to McQueen, using her contacts and industry expertise to help launch his career. It was even rumored that she influenced his choice to go after his middle name, Alexander, when he finally had his big break.

 

McQueen and Blow (source)

During this time, McQueen grew as an artist with other designers in Hoxton, where he designed his second collection that led him to his "right hand woman", Katy England. England was appointed the creative director of Mcqueen's third collection and continued working with him from then on, being his "second opinion" on all of his major works. Following these collections, he then moved on to create the wardrobe for David Bowie's 1996-1997, which opened the door to a plethora of high-profile celebrity collaborations with icons like Bjork, Robert Lepage, Sylvie Guillem, and Russell Maliphant.

 

McQueen for David Bowie (source)

Through the end of the 90s and the beginning of the 2000s, McQueen built a reputation around his shocking runway displays; his lavish and unconventional style was like nothing the industry had ever seen, incorporating things like holograms and shipwreck scenes into his shows. He became one of the runway frontrunners, being credited with adding tur extravagance and drama to fashion. One of the most dramatic shows in of his career was for Spring/ Summer 2001 displaying a collection dubbed "VOSS". The centerpiece of the show was a class box based upon Sanitarium by Joel Peter Witkin; the box was unlit, making the reflections on the walls seem like large mirrors reflecting the audience's images back to them for over an hour. When the show finally began, the box became lit to reveal a gaggle of moths and a naked Michelle Olley relaxed on a chaise lounge wearing only a gas mask.

 

A photo from the VOSS show, 2001 (source)

In 1996, Mcqueen was appointed to chief designer at Givenchy, where he worked until 2001. Prior to this departure, he formed a partnership with the Gucci Group and they acquired 51% of his company in 2000. He remained as the creative director until his death, and this new ownership allowed his label to globally expand. He created men and women's ready-to-wear collections, accessories, eyewear, and a variety of fragrances that were available in boutiques all over the world at the conclusion of 2007. He remained at the top of the industry until his untimely passing in 2010, two days prior to the start of London Fashion Week. He still holds his title as one of the most iconic courtiers of all time and has received high honors including "British Designer of the Year" (1996 & 2003) and "International Designer of the Year" (2003). His brand continues to produce stunning collections and the McQueen legacy will live on longer than the industry itself.

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