talkingfashion » written by morgan watkins
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Jewelry Explosion from the Arts & Crafts Movement
Jewelry Explosion from the Arts & Crafts Movement by Morgan Watkins
There’s something about some good old fashion DIY-ing that can give you an overwhelming sense of pride and satisfaction. Getting down and dirty and creating things with your own two bare hands is a process that has fallen to the wayside as big name manufacturers have taken over that role for pretty much the entire world. But with the Arts & Crafts Movement came a surge of do-it-yourself individuals who wanted to take matters, and jewelry making, into their own hands. Want to learn more about this movement and its impact on the jewelry world? Keep on reading!
Starting in the later half of the 19th century, the Arts & Crafts Movement looked to bring back individuality and artistry. This era was comprised of people who saw the newly booming mechanical and industrial revolutions as a means of stripping away creativity and passion from the working class. Guildsman C.R. Ashbee took matters into his own hands and trained his fellow guildsmen on how to create their own handcrafted jewelry. The guild systems in general greatly rejected traditional jewelers and manufacturers, as did those who handmade materials for a living and lost their positions to machine driven factories. In general, the widely believed ideal was that goods should come from the hands of hard working peoples, notfrom cold and cruel factories with horrid working conditions. As jewelry making left factories and entered the household, married couples began making their own unique pieces together. Thanks to this change in dynamics, women were finally able to enter the jewelry industry, where they flourished and thrived. They were successful in designing, enameling and handcrafting arts & crafts jewelry, and often attended crafting and jewelry making classes in their leisure in order to improve on their skills.
(image from http://www.faycullen.com/blog/arts-crafts-movement/)While the value of jewelry is often gauged by the quality of materials used, like
gold and platinum, arts & crafts jewelry was regarded more for its unique, one-of-a-kind nature. Characteristically, accessories were assembled with cheaper, less frivolous goods like aluminum, copper, glass, freshwater pearls, and hand painted enamel. Stones, including moonstone, opal, turquoise, and amethyst, also graced arts & craft designs, complimenting the often dainty and delicate silhouettes popular during this time. Gold and precious stones, although rare, were used sparingly to accent more high end arts & craft jewelry pieces.
(Image from https://talkingfashion.net/collections/art-nouveau-and-victorian/products/victorian-antiqu e-art-nouveau-black-brown-confetti-wide-link-vintage-bracelet)
Necklaces, pendants, clasps and buckles were most commonly produced during the age of arts & craft jewelry. Stylistically, designs were quite dainty and elegant, but influence from all over the world trickled into the realm of the Arts & Crafts Movement. Japanese art translated onto tapestries, which featured floral designs and animal outlines which later appeared carved into metal jewelry. The Art Nouveau Era also had an impact on arts & crafts jewelry, which explains the interesting and greatly detailed silhouettes that were born from the late 1800s. Influence from Germany, Britain and even the Renaissance and Gothic periods also emerged during the heyday of handcrafted accessories, adding elements of glitz and glam to everyday pieces in an affordable way.
(Image from https://talkingfashion.net/collections/art-nouveau-and-victorian/products/copy-of-tbf-art-d eco-pearls-rhinestones-pin-brooch-vintage-jewelry)
Unfortunately, arts & crafts jewelry fell out of popularity around the 1920s and 1930s as it was overshadowed by the Art Deco Era. The designs were, then, deemed too fragile for everyday wear, as newer pieces were sturdier and just as affordable. With that being said, arts & craft jewelry is still available all over the web. Regardless of arts & craft jewelry’s simmered popularity, it’s never too late to start handcrafting pieces of your own! But if you would rather leave the DIY-ing to the pro-crafters, sites like Etsy and Poshmark promote creative craftsmanship, where individuals run their own virtual DIY shops. Similarly, talkingfashion.net has a wide array of Art Nouveau and vintage styles to shop around for, including dazzling bracelets and stunning brooches. Be sure to take a look and embrace the fun styles from the Arts & Crafts Movement!
References:
“Arts & Crafts Era Jewelry.” Antique Jewelry University, https://www.langantiques.com/university/Arts_%26_Crafts_Era_Jewelry.
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Folk Art Influence: American Art Turned Fashion
Folk Art Influence: American Art Turned Fashion by Morgan Watkins
When you think of the term “folk art,” what comes to mind? Do you instinctively hum a tune by Mumford & Sons? Do you imagine paintings of rural lands or cows? Regardless of whatever conceptions you may have of folk art, there’s a lot to be said about its staying power in America and how it’s shaped artists and fashion designers alike. Want to learn about folk art and its impact on the fashion world? Keep on reading!Folk art was introduced to the eastern regions of America in the 1700s. Vastly talented artists, who were characteristically self taught, used a variety of mediums to communicate their surroundings to the people around them. Initially, these art pieces served as forms of income for individuals around the country. Paintings of landscapes and portraits were most common around this time, featuring simplistic techniques and styles that perfectly reflected this era. Portraits displayed fairly basic backgrounds but intensely detailed facial features and expressions. These creations also serve as a wonderful record of what the fashions looked like centuries ago, even if the paintings were simple. Landscapes depicted images of all scenery imaginable, whether that be the sea, forests, farmland or townships. By the 1800s, mourning paintings were quite popular, presenting portraits of lost loved ones and families weeping at funerals. Important life events in general, like weddings and births, were also documented via folk paintings.
(Image from https://folkartmuseum.org/exhibitions/a-shared-legacy-folk-art-in-america/)
Sculpture was yet another medium utilized by 19th century folk artists. The earliest American folk sculptures were carved from wood and perched upon the stern boards and figureheads of ships. These carvings mimicked female figures and were said to protect the ship. Cigar and tobacco shops also worked with folk artists to create lifelike signs for their businesses. Carvings of life sized Indians and soldiers were most commonly requested by shop owners, who set the self-standing sculptures outside the doors of their storefronts to attract customers.
(Image from https://www.skinnerinc.com/auctions/2258/lots/189)
One of the most common associations with folk art is quite arguably the patchwork quilt. The American staple was birthed from Amish communities in the 18th and 19th century Midwest, where resources were limited and winters were cold. These quilts served utilitarian as well as decorative purposes, as folk art can be either or. Another folk art attribute that was prevalent in quilt making especially is the concept of creating works with your own two hands. And while quilts, paintings and sculptures are all examples of art you can touch, intangible forms like music, poetry and dance also have their place in the realm of folk art.
(Image from http://amishamerica.com/hostetlers-quilt-shop/)
So how has folk art presented itself in the fashion world? Well, just recently, Raf Simons was celebrated by the American Folk Art Museum for the Americana quilt designs he created for Calvin Klein. And celebrating the 50 year anniversary of his brand, Ralph Lauren presented a collection dripping in folk art influence for New York Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2019. The designer claims that his collections and mood boards are birthed by American inspiration, listing American folk art as a specific example. Lauren’s American muse is clear in his patchwork designs, paired perfectly with folk-y patterns and fabrics like wool, plaid, and tribal print.
(Image from https://wwd.com/fashion-news/fashion-scoops/raf-simons-to-be-honored-by-american-fo lk-art-museum-1202770974/)
Above all, folk art is an outlet that has always been for the people, by the people. Although it started out as a means to make a living, folk art has evolved into a contemporary practice made for self expression and community bonding. Its inclusivity, patriotism and effortless attitude makes it an art style that will likely withstand the test of time, growing with us in fashion and other gorgeous art forms worth admiring.
(Image from https://www.bangstyle.com/posts/ralph-lauren-50th-anniversary-ss19-fashion-show-318 6)
References:
Aktar, Alex. “ Ralph Lauren Marks 50 Years at Star-Studded Central Park Show.” New York Post,8 Sept. 2018, https://nypost.com/2018/09/08/ralph-lauren-marks-50-years-at-star-studded-central-park-show/.
Lockwood, Lisa. “Raf Simons to Be Honored by American Folk Art Museum.” WWD,8 Aug. 2018,https://wwd.com/fashion-news/fashion-scoops/raf-simons-to-be-honored-by-american-folk-art-museum-1202770974/.
Sessions, Ralph. “Folk Art.” Scholastic, http://www.scholastic.com/browse/article.jsp?id=3754295.
“What Is Folk Art?” Museum of International Folk Art, http://www.internationalfolkart.org/learn/what-is-folk-art.html.
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Symbolism & Style: The Diverse Jewelry of Africa
Symbolism & Style: The Diverse Jewelry of Africa by Morgan Watkins
Africa: a continent represented by diverse cultures, art and rich history. While it would be nearly impossible to put into words the beauty of this land, part of Africa’s charm can be appreciated through the jewelry created and worn by tribes and peoples across its regions. Saturated in vivid colors, constructed through various mediums and holding deep symbolism, African accessories are much more than strings of beads and copper wire. Keep on reading to learn more about Africa’s intricate and intriguing jewelry.
(Image from https://www.trekearth.com/gallery/Africa/Kenya/East/North_Eastern/Samburu_National_ Park/photo127575.htm)
It is said that jewelry in Africa dates back as far as 10,000 B.C., where jewelry was first constructed of simple natural resources. Animals were utilized not only to feed tribes, but also to create unique pieces made from bones, hides, and horns. Before trade was introduced to Africans, sticks, clay, seeds, shells, coral and stones could be foraged and utilized to fashion up jewelry. Beads became another valuable item for accessory making, as well as trade. Evolving from simple seeds to small glass ornaments, Africans were able to use aggri beads to barter with Europeans who entered the continent during the 15th and 16th centuries, when the African slave trade was beginning to rise. The more beads Africans had, the more valuable they were in the eyes of slave traders.
(Image from https://www.pinterest.com/pin/165648092516531850/?lp=true)
Speaking of beads, these tiny round items also serve a gaggle of other purposes. Dzi beads, echinacea beads and amber beads can either be consumed or worn by individuals, as they are utilized medically and as dietary supplements. Newborns commonly receive bracelets containing these beads as a way to physically and spiritually protect them from the outside world. Similarly, the dead also take these pieces to the grave. On a lighter note, waist beads, or strings of beads worn just above the hips, serve as a symbol of fertility, protection, seduction and healing. These accessories celebrate womanhood and femininity while ensuring prosperous reproductive health.
(Image from https://www.behance.net/gallery/5767485/Dipo-Ceremony-Krobo-Ghana)
For the Maasai people, beads are utilized to communicate various meanings via color codes. For example, red beads symbolize bravery and unity, white beads represent health and peace, and blue beads are used as a sign of energy. Not only that but the types of beaded necklaces worn by women communicate the marital status of the wearer. Unmarried women don flat beaded disc necklaces while soon to be married ladies sport elaborate, heavily beaded jewelry. Those who are married wear long strands of blue beads around their necks. Like the Maasai, Nigerian woman, too, wear accessory pieces to represent their courting status, which is presented in the form of woven bracelets.
(Image from http://www.freakingnews.com/Masai-Woman-in-Colorful-Clothes-Pictures-83725.asp)
Maasai women of high society are often styled in the most colorful beads around in order to show off their status. And like the Maasai, the Ashanti also use jewelry to represent social strata. Accessories in the Ghana region are usually limited to upper class individuals, who favor gold bracelets, armlets, anklets, rings, headdresses and more. Women of the Fulani, another tribe that loves gold jewelry, characteristically wear massive gold earrings as a symbol of wealth; the bigger the earrings, the richer the family.
(Image from https://interesting-africa-facts.com/African-Jewelry/Fulani-Earrings.shtml)
Egyptians, however, view their jewelry in a different light. Pieces created from gold and copper, often complimented with lapis lazuli, carnelian, and turquoise, hold spiritual significance and protect individuals from devilish spirits and bad energy. Egyptians wouldn’t even part with their beloved amulets and talismans when faced with death, as they believe their accessories could be carried with them into the afterlife.The Berber and Tuareg people also believe in jewelry’s spiritual powers, refusing to wear silver as it was deemed a metal of bad luck. Their jewelry is usually large in size, heavy in weight, and intricate in design. Geometric shapes are common templates for the Saharan region, and crosses are passed on from father to son in the Tuareg communities as a means to combat evil.
(Image from http://www.styleskier.com/five-interesting-facts-about-egyptian-jewelry/)
African men and women alike favor gold, but instead of wearing bracelets and necklaces like the ladies of Africa, men tend to prefer helmets and headdresses. Chieftains in Senegal model weighty gold head plaques, while Ashanti men at the Ivory Coast lean towards helmets constructed from stiffened animal hides that are embellished with gold leaves and wooden ornaments.
(Image from https://www.pinterest.com/pin/134474738844835952/?lp=true)
All in all, the intensely diverse and magnificent cultures of Africa all have one thing in common: their jewelry are works of art. Pieces like beaded necklaces and gold plated headdresses are a reflection of Africa’s people and their beauty, making this jewelry more than just jewelry. With a bounty of symbolism instilled in these pieces, African accessories perfectly embody how fashion can represent not only personal style and values, but also the world and the incredible cultures it encompasses. Looking for some stunning African inspired jewelry to add to your accessory arsenal? Be sure to check out our favorite styles on talkingfashion.net!
References:
Bello, Ebun. “Let’s Talk about African Gold Jewelry – History and Symbolism.” Zoede, 12 Nov. 2017,
https://zoede.com/lets-talk-african-gold-jewelry-history-symbolism/.
Fiandaca, Sean. “5 Things You Didn’t Know About Maasai Beadwork.” ThomsonSafaris,18 Oct. 2016, https://thomsonsafaris.com/blog/5-things-didnt-know-maasai-beadwork/. Katsande, Rukariro. “The Importance of Beads and Beadwork in African Culture.”
Wilderness Safaris, 11 Nov. 2014,https://wilderness-safaris.com/blog/posts/the-importance-of-beads-and-beadwork-in-african-culture.
Katsande, Rukariro. “The Importance of Beads and Beadwork in African Culture, Part II.” Wilderness Safaris,18 Nov. 2014,https://wilderness-safaris.com/blog/posts/the-importance-of-beads-and-beadwork-in-african-culture-part-ii.
Kimani, Natalie. “ANCIENT AFRICAN JEWELRY: Design History on the Continent.”The Designers Studio,22 Nov. 2017, http://tdsblog.com/ancient-african-jewellery/.
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Benefits of Buying Vintage and Secondhand Jewelry
Benefits of Buying Vintage and Secondhand Jewelry written by Morgan Watkins
With the rise of thrift shopping and selling apps like Depop and Poshmark, buying vintage has never been easier. The rising population of vintage shoppers continues to grow for a number of reasons, thanks to the beauty of older jewelry and the much more affordable price tags of secondhand items. What more is there to love about shopping vintage? Read on to find out!
Not to be mistaken with antique jewelry, which is characteristically defined as accessories that are at least one century old (some say 75+ years old), vintage jewelry is at least 20+ years old. Of course, vintage jewelry eventually becomes antique once it reaches that 100 year milestone, but for now, let’s talk about pieces that are under this timeframe. With vintage accessories, fashion lovers can add a classic, old fashion flair to an otherwise simple, contemporary look. While these pieces may be a few decades old, they’re still fresh enough to work with more modern styling without sticking out like an ancient, sore thumb.
One of the most important aspects to consider when shopping secondhand is the green factor. When you buy used jewelry or vintage items that have been pre-owned, you are not only building a fabulous accessory arsenal, but you’re also helping out the planet. Fast fashion, or fashion that is produced rapidly and in great quantities, is made cheaply for the sake of adhering to current trends. These items fall apart and go out of style faster than you can say “fast fashion”, which leads to tons and tons of fashion goods building up in our landfills every year.
According to Remake, 80% of discarded textiles end up in the landfill or incinerator, with just 20% actually being utilized or recycled. These goods can take around 200 painstaking years to actually break down, which makes it imperative that we, as consumers, begin adopting more responsible and resourceful ways of consuming fashion, starting with secondhand shopping.
Not only is buying secondhand jewelry better for the planet, but it’s also easier on your wallet. With fine jewelry like sterling silver necklaces and solid gold bracelets coming in at such massive price tags, jumping on pre-owned items of the same materials gives you way more bang for your buck while still giving consumers the opportunity to own pieces made with fabulous gemstones and precious metals. Vintage jewelry can be a bit pricey depending on where you’re shopping, but talkingfashion.net has plenty of affordable vintage deals to check out!
With today’s minimalistic, modern styling taking over, it’s hard to find unique jewelry that truly showcase individualistic personal style. Vintage pieces, however, offer up plenty of personality to electrify any look. Art Deco styles and theatrical accessories will help set any It Girl apart from the crowd with colorful palettes, geometric shapes and a chic, throwback aesthetic. But on a more sentimental note, owning an older piece with its own rich story allows fashionistas to carry a bit of history with them wherever they go. Vintage jewelry can be passed on from generation to generation, and as pieces become older, they become valuable, beloved family antiques.
From going green to saving green, vintage and secondhand jewelry options are perfect staples for a closet that is socially conscious and responsible. Unique pieces add a dash of individualism along with a glimpse into decades passed, creating looks that are timeless while still remaining on trend. If you’d like to hop on the vintage bandwagon, head over to talkingfashion.net to browse hundreds of classic accessories and styles, and feel free to help out the environment by consigning with us!
References:
McCarthy, Allison. “Are Our Clothes Doomed for the Landfill?” Remake, 22 Mar. 2018, http://remake.world/uncategorized/are-our-clothes-doomed-for-the-landfill/. Rizvi, Fauzia.
“The Difference between Antique & Vintage Jewelry ...anyone Know?”LinkedIn, 30 May 2016, https://www.linkedin.com/pulse/difference-between-antique-vintage-jewelry-anyone-know-fauzia-rizvi/.
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The History of Sustainable Fashion
The History of Sustainable Fashion by Morgan Watkins
With our planet warming and our landfills piling up all across the globe, talks of sustainable living has made room for itself at the dinner table in fashion society. The ever-booming business of fast fashion and the consumer attitude of obsessive excess has projected fashion in a negative light with regards going green initiatives. But many brands and designers are putting their foot down for a future that is as eco-friendly as it is fabulous. Read on to learn about the origins of green fashion and how industry giants are working towards a better, cleaner future.Back in ancient times, civilizations relied entirely on natural materials to construct their clothing. Garments were commonly made of animal hides, skins, furs and bones in order to utilize every part of the creatures they hunted. Leaves and twigs were other resources widely used to clothe individuals, until the practice of weaving came around in Egypt around 3400 B.C. Since then, a multitude of fabrics have been created from both natural and synthetic goods. Common examples of natural fabrics would be cotton and silk, which are characteristically better for the environment as they are made from products that will likely break down over time. Even so, some of these fabrics are treated with harmful chemicals, making them toxic for the environment. Synthetic textiles, which were first introduced in the late 19th century, are harmful to the planet due to their resistance to decompose; think nylon, acrylic and polyester.
(Image from http://www.experience-ancient-egypt.com/ancient-egyptian-culture/ancient-egyptian-life/ ancient-egyptian-clothes)
So when did the production of clothing become an environmental hazard? Let’s jump into the late 18th century, where the sewing machine was invented and factories were popping up rapidly across the United States. Before the Industrial Revolution, and even the decades following, it was common for families to construct their own clothing, which meant smaller closets and less textile waste. But as strip malls and department stores took over the country by the 20th century, post-war consumers were hungry for fast fashion. Corporations fed this hunger, employing child laborers to work long hours and in horrid conditions to produce large quantities of clothes in a short amount of time. Even when labor laws regulated factory conditions, the demand for fashion was through the roof, so production continued to match its pace.
(Image from https://bellatory.com/fashion-industry/Ready-to-Wear-A-Short-History-of-the-Garment-In dustry)
But by the 1960s, things started to change. With political movements surrounding civil rights and anti-Vietnam protests, people began to pay attention to other world issues like pollution, deforestation and a variety of other matters revolving around the planet and its wellbeing. It’s this era that produced the phrase “tree huggers,” as the first Earth Day was celebrated in April of 1970. With the rise of eco-friendly consciousness came the rise of DIY fashion. Hippies began taking on patchworking as a major fashion statement, sewing paisley printed panels into the sides of their bellbottoms to create an extra dramatic flared shape. The act of revamping old clothes and making them new carried over for decades, as bedazzling and embroidering was in during the 80s, 90s and even early 2000s.
(Image from https://www.neimanmarcus.com/p/ag-adriano-goldschmied-angel-high-waist-flare-jeans- 11-years-patchwork-prod180770241)
More recently, designers like Stella McCartney have begun to pave the way for a future in fashion that is eco-friendly and ethical. The brand uses only sustainable fabrics which won’t harm the planet, or uses recycled materials to create fabulous garments and accessories. Not only that but McCartney’s collections are 100% vegan, so you don’t have to fret about the designer’s fashion impact on animals and their ecosystems. Going hand in hand with this initiative is Vancouver and Seattle’s Eco Fashion Week. Similar to all other Fashion Weeks we know and love, this forum features collections that are Earth-conscious and sustainable. Shows first started in Vancouver, B.C. in 2010, where spring collections were sent down the runway. Fall collections were showcased as the event expanded into Seattle, Washington in 2016. Since the birth of this momentous fashion movement, 150 designers have been represented within 12 editions.
(Image from hype beast.com/2018/10/stella-mccartney-spring-summer-2019-runway-paris-fashion-week)
So what can you do to lessen your carbon footprint via fashion? Shop secondhand! Buying vintage or thrifted goods keeps clothes in your closet and out of landfills and incinerators. And if you have pieces you’re considering trashing, stop for a second and decide whether or not the garment can be spruced up or repurposed. Patchwork is in! Just look to Ralph Lauren and Jeremy Scott’s Spring/Summer 2019 collections for inspiration. Or practice adding some delicate floral embroidery to spruce up a simple white tee. Otherwise, donate your clothing to those in need, take them to a thrift store, or sell secondhand with talkingfashion.net! Every step you take towards going green makes a world of difference, no matter how big or small.
(Image from https://www.buro247.my/instagram/ralphlauren/13518279)
References:
Atamian, Luna. “Sustainable Fashion Is the Next Fashionable Thing.” Huffington Post, 12 Sept. 2017, https://www.huffingtonpost.com/entry/sustainable-fashion-is-the-next-fashionable-thing_ us_59b7e84de4b08f6632c076f9.
Farra, Emily. “Stella McCartney Discusses How Sustainable Fashion Can Be Sexy—And ‘How Technology Can Save Us.’” Vogue, 12 Oct. 2017, https://www.vogue.com/article/vogue-forces-of-fashion-stella-mccartney-sustainable. Gonzalez, Nyelli. “A Brief History of Sustainable Fashion.” Triple Pundit, 19 Feb. 2015,https://www.triplepundit.com/special/sustainable-fashion-2014/brief-history-sustainable-f ashion/.
Loewe, Emma. “Meet The Sustainable Fabrics That Will Kick-Start Your Capsule Wardrobe.” Mbg Planet,https://www.mindbodygreen.com/0-28720/meet-the-sustainable-fabrics-that-will-kickstar t-your-capsule-wardrobe.html.
