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Magnifying the History of Binoculars
Magnifying the History of Binoculars
By Paige McKirahan
As a direct descendent of the telescope, binoculars are a little bit more portable; whether you need a close look at a sporting event or are trying to see some big game in the woods, the functionality of binoculars are unmatched. The question we are posing, though, is how this steampunk-approved device came into circulation.
Though the birth of the telescope is seen as somewhat of a mystery in the realm of history and science, Hans Libbershey is the first to be credited with the invention. The Holland based spectacle-maker was the first to attempt obtaining a patent for the star-gazing instrument in 1608, making it widely known regardless of his connection to its creation. Galileo Galilei, the great Italian scientist, introduced the device to astronomy in the following year; he used it be the first to see craters on the moon, as well as sunspots, Jupiter’s moons, and Saturn’s rings. This telescope begun an astronomical revolution and consisted of two lenses: the objective and the eyepiece. The objective were the convex lenses and the concave lenses at the eye-facing end were dubbed the eyepiece
Two of Galileo’s first telescopes
(image credit to pinterest.com)
These lenses allowed Galileo to magnify objects up to thirty times, but a major design flaw regarding back draw gave the telescope a very narrow field of vision, forcing the user to constantly move the device when viewing details in the distance. Looking to combat this flaw, Johann Voigtlander did so by creating the first set of binoculars, affectionately known as Galilean binoculars, in the 1820s. After he managed to repair the back draw issue, he also added eye tubes, which are used to better focus images.
Galilean binoculars
(Image credit to Wikipedia.com)
This style was extremely popular for the next three decades in the theatre, social events, and outdoor activities. They were often detailed with pearls, silver, gold, bone, or colored leather and were modified to resemble fancy glasses used at the opera. In 1854, though, a new type of binoculars took hold of the public; Italian optician Ignazio Porro’s innovative Porro Prism binoculars had a wider range and were better performing than their predecessor, making Galilean styles almost obsolete. From then on, inventors and innovators continued developing new binocular designs, ultimately shaping them into what they are today. Steampunk connoisseurs and sportsman alike love the instruments, with the former being more so interested in vintage, rustic styles. The creation of the piece and the overall look fits perfectly into the steampunk aesthetic and allows those dressing in the style to display their love for innovation.
Opera glasses and steampunk binoculars
(image credits to pinterest.com)
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Steampunk Style
Steampunk Style by Morgan Watkins
What do you get when you combine various cultures and subcultures like gothics, sci-fi fans, cyberpunks and more? The answer is steampunk, which is defined by the Daily Dot as “a subculture encompassing fashion, music, literature, movies, DIY model-making, and gaming.” Commonly, these looks encompass both the future and the past, playing off of older designs and styles that’re revamped with an industrial twist. Still a bit fuzzy on what steampunk really is? Read on to learn more about the aesthetics, history and influence of steampunk style.Although it wasn’t until the 1990s that the movement gained popularity, early influences date back to the 19th century French illustrator, Albert Robida, whose intricate Victorian-esque art inspired DIY fashion fanatics to reinvent 18th and 19th century looks. Around the 1970s and 80s, the growing popularity of sci-fi films and novels made steampunk flourish, along with the help 1990s grunge, goth and cyberpunk mania. Steampunk band Abney Park, who even had a song titled “Steampunk Revolution,” initially rocked futuristic trinkets and edgy costumes in music videos, inspiring countless musicians in a variety of genres to don steampunk ensembles for performances, videos and more.
(Image from https://www.chicagopopculturecon.com/steampunk/)
The foundation of steampunk fashion is, of course, based on Victorian silhouettes and shapes. Leather vests, oversized buckles, metallic trinkets, lace corsets, goggle adorned top hats, and clockwork embellished accessories are just a few staples that pair with a variety of styles and themes, like goth, fantasy, and other popular cosplay aesthetics. While most looks come from a Victorian foundation, steampunk allows individuals to create totally personalized and unique costumes that can help them express a particular vibe or identity. More is more, and the possibilities are endless.
(Image from https://blog.stylewe.com/steampunk-fashion-eccentric-esthetic-style/)
While the steampunk movement started as an underground trend adopted by so-called “outcasts” or “hipsters,” it quickly garnered popularity among mainstream pop culture. By the late 2000s, the quirky style of steampunk was being celebrated widely on television, in music and within film. Steampunk’d , for example, was a TV show featuring 10 contestants competing in challenges revolving around the construction of steampunk looks. Movies like Sherlock Holmes and Series of Unfortunate Events also took on steampunk costuming, as did artists like Panic! At The Disco in their music video for “The Ballad of Mona Lisa.” Justin Bieber even joined in on the trend for his “Santa Claus is Coming to Town” music video.
(Image from https://lieselhindmann.wordpress.com/tag/the-ballad-of-mona-lisa/ )
Steampunk isn’t just a movement in fashion, but rather a niche that allows people of all walks of life to bond over fashion and costuming. Goths, cyberpunks, sci-fi or fantasy fanatics: everyone is accepted under the steampunk umbrella, where individuals far and wide are free to get creative and express themselves however they see fit, even if that means dismantling an old alarm clock for the sake of fashion.
References:
Baker-Whitelaw, Gavia. “What Is Steampunk? A Comprehensive Beginner’s Guide.” TheDaily Dot, 15 Oct. 2016, The Daily Dot, http://www.website.com.
“Steampunk’d.” IMDb, https://www.imdb.com/title/tt4777200/plotsummary?ref_=tt_ov_pl. -
Pioneering the Scarf Industry
Pioneering the Scarf Industry
By Paige McKirahan
Seeing as how we have already learned the history behind the magnificent accessory, we begun to wonder about the designers who paved the way for scarves to become the classic piece that they are today. Hermes, of course, burst onto the scene with their wonderful silk designs that exuded luxury and wealth, capturing the attention of everyone from starlets to the everyday person. But what about the other popular designers that took the piece and molded it into something of their own? Read on to hear of our favorite scarf designers and brands throughout time (and to find some of their pieces in our shop!)
When the brand first stepped onto the scene in 1939, it emerged under the umbrella of the Glendser Textile Co. that received its first registered trademark for lady’s scarves and handkerchiefs. In the following decades up into the 1970s, Glentex became increasingly popular and was widely known for their beaded collars and vibrant patterns. Many pieces were made in Japan out of a wide variety of fabrics, including silk and rayon. At the height of their popularity, they even partnered with our beloved Schiaparelli and Gloria Vanderbilt to create high fashion pieces!
This brand, which was popularized by their easy-to-carry rainboots, hails from our home state of Ohio! Specializing in rainwear and waterproof accessories, Totes truly began in 1942 and shot to fame after they introduced the first collapsible umbrella in 1970. From there on out, they began creating other popular rainwear, including the coveted water resistant scarf. This supermarket and drugstore brand is still operating today and boasts a large collection of colorful, waterproof accessories that even high fashion lovers love to sport!
After its conception in the ‘20s, Echo began building an impressive arsenal of patterns that would build rapport until the late ‘70s when the scarf business began to see a decline. When the creators' daughter, Dorothy, took over the company after her husband’s death, she was determined to beat the dwindling sales and did just that in 1983 when the brand made its way into the European market. After a slew of licensing agreements with fashion and home goods giants like Ralph Lauren and Laura Ashley, the company began releasing more accessories and home furnishings that expanded their profits and popularity exponentially. Today, it is still privately owned by the family and this emerging lifestyle brand still celebrates their humble roots with their 95 anniversary just having passed in September. In their blog commemorating the event, they even go as far as saying that they feel responsible for bringing the scarf to the world of fashion (Bold statement! Do you agree?)
Though there seems to be many famous Vera’s in the fashion industry (think Bradley and Wang), Vera Neumann is one of the most iconic of them all; her namesake brand made beautiful art affordable and not just a thing to be admired on the wall. With all of her scarf designs being based upon original paintings, it is evident that Vera had creative roots in textiles and illustration. When she began a silkscreen printing company with her husband George and their friend Frederick, it saw almost immediate success. In the midst of World War II, the growing company was looking for ways to continue manufacturing product despite heavy rations; she stumbled upon some parachute silk at an army surplus store and voila! Her scarf business was born. She created the first signature scarf in history with her name transferred to every product, making her a household favorite with recognition all around the country. Marilyn Monroe, Grace Kelly, and even the First Lady Bess Truman loved her designs as she requested the "Vera" fabric be used in White House Decor. Her iconic presence in both the art and fashion worlds landed her work in the Metropolitan Museum of Art, The Museum of History and Technology, and the Museum of Modern Art. She was even commissioned to paint the Foucault Pendulum in the Smithsonian, which can still be seen hanging in their offices today.
As one of the industry’s most knowledgeable scarf entrepreneurs, Elaine Gold got her start as Vera’s assistant where she was the studio business manager tasked with helping develop and market the scarf business. 19 years later, she joined another budding scarf business, Robinsons & Colluber, where she was one of the first to make waves in brand marketing for the scarf industry. She then joined another one of our designer favorites, Totes, and ran their XIIX Karats brand that she eventually bought in 1983. Changing its name to Collection XIIX, she built it into a powerhouse with licenses from Anne Klein and Jones New York. When Drew Pizzo bought her company in the ‘90s, she went on to create Elaine Gold Enterprises, which found its first license with the US Postal Service! She worked with the Met, Vera Bradley, and essentially anyone in the industry looking to promote their scarves as she was the “go to” expert in the field.
Though there are a wide variety of other scarf designers that paved the way for today’s successors, these are some of our favorites. In addition, Avon, Paoli, and Burmel created high quality designs that were affordable and can be seen in vintage shops all over the world. On the higher end, Valentino, Missoni, and Givenchy all have been creating luxury scarves adored by the industry for decades. To purchase any of these brands, check out our links throughout this post or search our collection to find some hidden gems of your own!
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Fashion Flashback: Scarves & Foulards
Fashion Flashback: Scarves & Foulards by Morgan Watkins
With fall kicking up crunchy orange leaves followed by the wafting aroma of all things pumpkin spice, it is due time for the return of one of autumn’s most beloved accessories: the scarf. While they can be worn all year round in an endless combination of styles and fabrics, scarves and foulards are the epitome of the colder season to come. Read on to learn more about where these cozy accessories originated and how they’ve evolved over past centuries.
It was in Ancient Egypt that the first recorded scarf was worn. Queen Nefertiti, a woman known for her beauty and her reign alongside husband, Pharaoh Akhenaten, wore a scarf tightly around her neck around 1350 B.C. Later on in 230 B.C., cloth scarves were used to show military rank among the people of China while under the rule of Emperor Cheng. Silk equated to higher level positions, while those of lower ranks donned scarves made of cotton. This trend in establishing rank would carry onto the 1600s, where Croatian mercenaries wore scarves, or “cravats,” of varying colors to display who stood where on the military totem pole.
By the 1700s, scarves became a symbol of condolences In New England as they were handed on to mourning families by funeral attendees. Eventually, Massachusetts legislature determined that this form of “funeral extravagance” would be no more and passed a law barring the exchange of scarves. It was around this time that the knit scarf came to fruition via the Third Duke of Krakow, who wanted a scarf that would keep his neck warm as opposed to serving solely as a fashion statement.
Another man who enjoyed a lovely scarf was the famously renowned composer, Beethoven, who was said to have worn a silk scarf paired with dapper suits in an attempt to woo his beloved Therese Malfatti. Over time, silk scarves became even more popular as they were used as accessories to define status and wealth in the early 1800s and throughout the entirety of the Victorian Era. Within this timeframe, designers known for their scarves, like Hermès and Burberry, were born. Unfortunately, it took an entire century before Hermès dove into creating their notoriously iconic graphic silk scarves. Burberry, the brand famous for their signature plaid accessories, also would not design their cashmere neckwear until the mid-to-late 1900s.
(Image from https://www.therealreal.com/products/women/accessories/scarves-and-shawls/hermes-l es-cles-silk-scarf-NG6-VbjUHGE)
Dance culture also had an impact on the rise of scarves in history. Back in the later 1200s, Egyptian belly dancers commonly wore scarves tied low on the hips to accentuate their movements and style. Fast forward to the early 1900s and long, flowing scarves were trending, thanks to dancer Isadora Duncan. Duncan ironically passed away from an accident involving the tangling of her scarf with an automobile wheel, but the memory of her most cherished accessory lived on. Fur scarves took over French fashion in the 30s, while wearing neckwear around the forehead was in vogue during the hippy days of the 70s.
(Image from https://talkingfashion.net/products/fur-velvet-scarf-brown-slim-long-luxurious-vintage-acc essory)
It is worth noting that scarves and foulards are not merely worn by individuals to superficially boost the overall aesthetic of an outfit, as they can be worn for religious and cultural purposes as well. Colorful and patterned head scarves may be worn by African women, or women of African descent, to celebrate their heritage and culture. Muslim women don hijabs as a symbol of modesty and religious virtue, while turbans are seen on the heads of men and women practising Sikhism. Last year, Nike disclosed that they would begin selling performance hijabs for athletes of Muslim faith, taking a grand step in the right direction towards including Muslim individuals in American culture as well as standing in solidarity for Muslim rights.
(Image from https://www.usatoday.com/story/news/world/2017/12/20/nike-begins-selling-sports-hijab -muslim-female-athletes/970226001/)
From easy breezy infinity scarves to free flowing cashmere wraps, scarves offer endless possibilities to style and accessorize your look. Regardless of what kind of scarf you wear or why you wear it, these accessories are reliable, simple staples available to all genders, ages, cultures and faiths. If you’re in the market for a fancy foulard or to sell a snazzy scarf, check out talkingfashion.net for some sleek styles and consignment options!
References:
“THE HISTORY OF SCARVES: A TIMELINE.” Scarves.net, 25 Jan. 2012, https://www.scarves.net/blogs/scarves/the-history-of-scarves-a-timeline. Stanglin, Doug.
“Nike Begins Selling Sports Hijab for Muslim Female Athletes.” USA Today, 20 Dec. 2017, https://www.usatoday.com/story/news/world/2017/12/20/nike-begins-selling-sport s-hijab-muslim-female-athletes/970226001/.
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Accessory Trends at Paris Fashion Week SS19
Accessory Trends at Paris Fashion Week SS19 written by Morgan Watkins
Paris Fashion Week sent the Spring/Summer 2019 circuit out with an exhilaratingbang, bringing forth incredible runway sets, inspired new designs, and a surplus of contemporary trends to try out next year. Although we must mourn the end of yet another fantastic season of fashion shows, we can at least revel in the beautiful creations that came to be these past few weeks. Read on for our favorite accessory moments at Paris Fashion Week SS19.Nautical Vibes
(Image from https://en.vogue.fr/jewelry/runway-trends/diaporama/13-pieces-of-our-favorite-jewelry-s een-on-the-runways-of-paris-fashion-week-spring-summer-2019/53048#le-collier-gri-gri- coquillage-du-defile-altuzarra-printemps-ete-2019_image4)
From models prancing barefoot down beach runways at Chanel to seashells hanging from necklaces at Altuzarra, nautical themes washed up at Paris Fashion Week in a big way. Chloé set sail with earthy tones and bohemian energy, aptly complemented by rope belts loosely looped around the hips, reigning in easy breezy silhouettes, textured fabrics and frayed fringe.
Heavy Metal
(Image from http://hero-magazine.com/shows/valentino-ss19-2/catwalk/#slide-1-1)
Chain belts linked to the shining letters of Chanel were layered generously to add a tinny element to the chic and modern designs of Karl Lagerfeld at their manmade beachfront show. Similarly, Givenchy stunned audiences with silvery metallic earrings contrasting military inspired paper bag trousers. Balmain decided to join in on the fun as well, cinching models’ waists with thick and intricate metal belts to create wildly imagined shapes with artistically crafted silhouettes.
Hats Off
(Image from https://www.10magazine.com.au/women/thom-browne-ss19-pfw/)
Extravagant headwear was larger than life in Paris as designers went with outlandish, kooky and even fruity creations to top off their looks. Thom Browne was a standout as he sent models down the catwalk sporting oversized watermelons and juicy pineapple fixtures atop their heads, making for a deliciously lighthearted collection. With a less theatrical approach that still packed a punch of drama, Valentino produced vividly hued bucket hats and a modern and gargantuan take on a spring/summer staple: the straw hat.
Choked Up
(Image from https://www.elle.com/runway/g23554095/alexander-mcqueen-spring-2019/?slide=1)
Could it be that chokers are making yet another comeback in 2019? Aalto, Dior and Alexander McQueen say so, with each fashion giant giving the classic 90s accessory their own modern twists. Aalto’s necklaces, comprised of gold and silver wire daintily woven together, were airy and simplistic, while logos and chains hardened Dior’s moody and eclectic show. Alexander McQueen’s chunky metallic chokers paired beautifully with the fierce yet elegant collection, featuring everything from slick black leather getups to sleeveless suit ensembles tailored under thick body chains.
For more posts about Fashion Week or to learn more about accessory trends, head over to talkingfashion.net/blogs/news!