The Master of Bias: Charles Kleibacker

 By Paige McKirahan

Though there have been many iconic designers in the past century that have made a substantial mark on the fashion world, Charles Kleibacker may be the most enigmatic. Born in 1921 in Alabama, this American creator earned his nickname “Master of Bias” because of his affinity for complex gown designs involving cuts diagonal to the weave. Despite his iconic status in the fashion world, Kleibacker wasn’t always so well versed in the industry; he attended the University of Notre Dame and majored in journalism, which lead him to attend New York University for his graduate studies.

Kleibacker in 1565

(photo credits to threadmagazine.com)

He eventually relocated to California and met singer Hildegarde in San Francisco after running into one other in the same hotel. His large station wagon landed him a job as her driver and he toted around her and her entourage on tour all around the globe. It was in Europe when he finally realized his love for fashion after meeting a multitude of fashion designers through Hildegarde. His interest was piqued while in the offices of Christian Dior, and this prompted him to submit a set of early designs that earned him a spot at Lanvin in 1954. He worked there for three years and promptly returned to New York to work for Nettie Rosenstein, on the most highly regarded American fashion designers of her time.

Kleibacker for Lanvin, 1967

(photo credits to pinterest.com)

In 1959, he moved out of the shadow of others and into his own light when he began designing his own collection out of his brownstone in the Upper West Side. The line was a huge success and by the mid ‘60s, he was creating pieces for some of the most exclusive luxury clothiers including Henri Bendel and Bergdof Goodman. His trademarks were silk and wool crepe and of course, the bias cut; this special practice created designs that had a true cut look, not one that appeared stamped out.

Kleibacker designs

(photo credits to garmentozine.wordpress.com)

After his great success in New York, Kleibacker came to Ohio and became a Designer- in- Residence at The Ohio State University’s Costume and Textiles Collection. His work was a part of a 2005 exhibit there in the College of Human Ecology. He then became an adjunct curator of design at the Columbus Museum of Art and organized multiple fashion related exhibits. He remained there until the time of his death in 2010, when he passed away due pneumonia at 88 years old. Our very own CEO had the pleasure of working closely with him on multiple local fashion shows and events, making him also a close companion of our brand here at TalkingFashion. As an amazing designer so close to our home office, we felt it would only be appropriate to celebrate his wonderful life; one with a nickname like “Master of Bias” is hard to forget.

Sources:

Charles Kleibacker. (2018, October 06). Retrieved from https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Charles_Kleibacker

History of Hobe: Vintage Figural Fun

By Paige McKirahan

When discussing vintage figural designers, it is only appropriate that we discuss Jacques Hobe, master goldsmith and the creator of Hobe et Cie. The Parisian company, which was founded in 1887, is known as a brand who had a hand in the creation of the phrase “costume jewelry”. His son William, who was also a master jeweler, began the American branch of the company out of New York and it shot the brand to the fame it holds today. His goal was to create extravagant, expertly designed costume jewelry for the upper and middle classes. The younger Hobe’s first commission in American was for Florence Ziegfeld in the 1920s for their Broadway productions. With that success, many doors to other film studios and commission opportunities flew open with ease.

In its prime, Hobe designs were sought out by everyone from movie stars, costume designers, and red carpet walkers. They could be seen in showrooms across the nation with two being in LA in addition to the flagship New York location. The jewelry produced by Hobe was like nothing anyone had ever seen before; William’s craftsmanship and brilliant use of figures and crystals captivated the public. It’s expensive aesthetic made it a staple in leading department stores and boutiques until the brands conclusion, and all pieces were designed by members of the Hobe family and guest designer Lou Vici who worked for the company from the ‘30s to the ‘70s. Looking for some vintage figural fun? Check out our Hobe selection in our collections!

Sources:

Everything About Vintage Costume Jewelry. (2014, May 1). Retrieved from http://vintagejewelry.wikidot.com/hobe

Timmy Woods: A Fascinating Figural Designer

By Paige McKirahan

On the topic of figural designs that are both modern and vintage, our favorite current designer that is adopting this unique motif is Timmy Woods. Hailing from Beverly Hills, this handbag aficionado has gained international fame for her original, one-of-a-kind pieces that can be seen on televisions, in prints, on runways, in stores, and on red carpets all around the globe.

Her personalized handbags have made her a household name and can match anyone’s tastes from those going to Hollywood premieres to those looking for a new, affordable addition to the accessory closet. She has been seen on screens everywhere in programs including Jupiter Shop Channel in Japan, TVSN Australia, HSN, QVC USA, and the Thai Home Shopping Network. She works with both wood and leather when designing her bags; all of them are hand carved, making them a great gift that can also be used as home décor! If you need a last minute gift for the figural fanatic on your list, check out our Timmy Woods collection!

Sources:

About Timmy Woods. (n.d.). Retrieved from https://timmywoods.com/pages/about-us-1

Headpiece Heaven: Five Fabulous Ornamental Accessories

By Paige McKirahan

When it comes to the evaluation of headwear as an accessory rather than something worn out of necessity, it can truly make or break an outfit. Adding a scarf or hat to compliment a piece is customary, but what about more lavish head ornaments that are typically sported by royalty or those strutting the red carpet? Read on to learn about hair and head ornaments that emulate opulence from the top down!

Fascinator: 

This eclectic headwear is a more decorative alternative to the hat. Its roots can be traced back the Renaissance where it was customary for Christian women in Europe to sport head coverings. The use of the term came into circulation to describe the evolutionary form of this headpiece towards the end of the 20^th century. Presently, it is typically worn at events where hats are customary and is accompanied by formal attire. They are commonly worn by woman as a covering during church services, weddings, or horse racing events. They are seen in great volume at royal events and Princess Beatrice of York wore a piece to Prince William and Catherine Middleton’s wedding that was so unusual, it became an internet sensation!

Tiara: 

A tiara is a specific type of crown that tends to be bejeweled and ornamental in style. Appropriate for formal occasions of the white tie variety, this headpiece originates in Persia as a status symbol. The use of tiaras in ancient times declined with the rise of Christianity, but they saw a revival in the 18^th century when Neoclassicism popularized the accessory for female adornment. Despite the fact that this revival was geared toward royalty, this piece has also been worn by wealthy commoners. The style is popular in the costume jewelry industry where they are worn by women for special occasions including homecomings, proms, quinceaneras, pageants, or weddings.

(image credits to harpersbazaar.com)

Hairpin:

The hairpin can come in many forms, but its basic function remains the same: to hold one’s hair in place. Whether the piece is elaborate and ornamental or utilitarian like a bobby pin, they are essential in creating different hairstyles. Coming from ancient Egypt and China, they were worn by all genders and were essential to hairstyling. They can also be used to note one's social or marital status. Now, they have a more decorative appearance and can be in the form of a barrette, bobby pin, or classic long straight pin.

(image credits to pinterest.com)

Hatpin:

This hair accessory can be considered a variation of the hairpin; it is decorative and functional, with its main purpose being to hold a hat to the head. It was invented in Britain in the early 1800s and after its conception, the demand grew so great that a machine was created so it could be mass produced. In the late 1800s, bonnets became widely more circulated than hats, forcing hairpins into the closets of millions. They continued growing in popularity until the early 1900s until women began using them for self-defense purposes. They then began being regulated and their length decreased in order to deter wearers from using them as weapons.

Crown: 

As the most traditional of headpieces on this list, the crown is a symbolic headwear typically won by royals. They represent power, victory, honor, glory, and legitimacy, and are often emblematic of the monarchy. These pieces can feature natural motifs, and they often are adorned with an assortment of expensive jewels. There are a variety of crown types and they can be used in coronations, at state occasions, or during weddings. You can even find their style being copied for novelty events (think Burger King's kid crowns!)

(image credit to us.hellomagazine.com)

Has Megan Markel and Harry's wedding got you feeling headpiece crazed? We can sate your desire for this royal glamour from the top down! Take a look at our collection to find headpieces for every occasion!