Creeping Into the World of Jewelry: The History of Insect Motifs

By Paige McKirahan

Over time, we have observed designers and innovators create pieces of art and fashion that reflect the interests of society. Given our long standing fascination with nature, it was only natural that insect motifs would crawl their way into the wild world of accessories. From using real insects to creating them out of diamonds and pearls, this aesthetic choice has been popular for centuries and it seems that it is here to stay.

As many common themes in jewelry do, the practice of incorporating insects in accessories has roots in ancient Egypt. Scarabs in amulets were widely popularized and most of the time, real scarabs would be used in the creation of these pieces. Butterflies, which are the most popular insects depicted in fashion, were incorporated into Egyptian bracelets as early as 2600 B.C. It has been said that wearing insect motifs has long been associated with the symbolism surrounding each of these arthropods. The cicada along with some variations of beetles and butterflies have positive attributes relating to immortality, rebirth, rejuvenation, longevity, and courage.

Why do we form these types of associations you ask? It could be attributed to the fact that we have been able to naturally or historically observe the lives of insects. Many go undergo the process of metamorphosis, where they grow and completely alter their appearance in different growth stages. Though ancient wearers of these designs may not have known about the science behind these transformations, they would have still noticed these obvious changes, influencing them to form the positive associations we are familiar with today.

As time soldered on, insects were incorporated into designs sporadically until they burst in popularity in the Victorian, Edwardian, Art Nouveau eras. Throughout these periods, natural themes were popular in all forms of art, from fashion to architecture. The emerging industrial era and romantic associations surrounding nature prompted the widespread use of insect motifs. Many featured depictions of moths, butterflies, and dragonflies, and were created from a variety of gems, pearls, and colored glasses.

Insects in fashion are still prominent themes in collections from Jeffrey Campbell to Betsey Johnson. Whether it be in ancient Egypt or the New York runways, we love the wild look of arthropods in jewelry here at TalkingFashion! Head over to our collection and search for your favorite bug-inspired pieces to accessorize any season!

Cameo Jewelry's Fine-Carved History

By Paige McKirahan 

When looking for accessories that seem to be tiptoeing the fine line between art and fashion, there is one piece that is sure to be found: the cameo. This jewelry features miniature reliefs that typically show a profile view of a woman’s face or a mythological scene, and have captured the hearts of many with their high sentimental value and impeccable craftsmanship. The name for the object has origins in Italy where it means “to engrave”; it is also said that the term was derived from the ancient Arabic word “khamea”, translating to “amulet”. Now that we know what the object is, let’s explore its rich history.

A tradition that began at the end of the 15^th century, cameos were first widely popularized by Queen Victoria and featured women’s profiles carved in sea shells, which is a practice that is still favored today. Despite this romantic evolution, the decorative jewelry piece has not always been a feminine accessory. In fact, they have been favored by men throughout history and this fondness began nearly 300 years prior to the birth of Christ. In ancient Egypt, carving reliefs into rock were used to record significant events in history as far back as 15,000 B.C. Cameos of this era frequently featured depictions of ethical values or made a statement about faith and loyalty.

Since the conception of this genre of jewelry, it has had a variety of uses throughout history. In early Greece and Rome, many carvings featured mythological creates, attractive women, or biblical events. The Hellenistic era saw young women using cameos to express their romantic desires; these pieces commonly depicted a relief of a dancing Eros as an invitation for seduction. The Renaissance brought these motifs to the attention of Pope Paul II and it is said that his love of the piece contributed to his death as his extensive collection of cameos kept his hands and body so cold that he ultimately froze.

In addition to their use as military accessories, they were also collected by women in the Elizabethan period to prove cultural status and serve as a souvenir for their travels (specifically to the newly discovered Pompeii). Even Napoleon became enchanted by the creation; he wore one to his own wedding and even founded a school in Paris dedicated to teaching the art of cameo carving.

Cameo showing Napoleon and his bride c. 1810

(image credit to pinterest.com)

Cameos are made from a variety of materials, but in order to tell if they are authentic and not made of plastic, you can expect them to be carved out of the following:

Carnelian Shells:

As the most frequent shell used for cameo carving, this material is low intensity with colors in peach and orange tones.

Sardonyx Shell:

With a thicker outer wall and dark brown interior, this shell can resemble marble when carved. The cameos in these shells tend to cost more because of their rarity, and they are distinctive in color with a white foreground starkly contrasting the darkness.

Mother of Pearl:

Best set in silver, mother of pearl cameos customarily are opaque with a bluish-grey color.

Agate:

Agate cameos are blue or green in color and have a more modern look, despite the fact that this material has been used to create this piece for centuries. 

(Above photo credits to thecameocollection.com)

If these materials aren’t easily recognizable, you can check the authenticity of your piece by observing the cameo’s appearance. Ones made in plastic are typically thicker than shells, so if they are real, they should be slightly transparent. You can also check for cracks as shells are fragile and are susceptible to damage if not cared for properly. Checking the carvings is another easy way to differentiate between plastic and real, raw material as those carved in shell should have fine markings whereas plastic is more smooth. For cameos of all types, check out our collection for brooches, rings, necklaces, earrings and bracelets that are sure to add a romantic touch to any fall look!

The Steampunk Movement: Modern, Industrial, and Accessory Filled

By Paige McKirahan

When thinking of ways to accessorize a steampunk look, you first want consider what the term means in order to understand this wild aesthetic as a whole. In short, it is a movement inspired by Victorian England, American’s wild West, and the Industrial Revolution that reimagines modern technologies as more elaborate, creative pieces of fashion, art, and mechanics. Essentially, it puts a classic twist on modern style, combining pieces from previous centuries with industrial motifs. This style of art and dress did not come into circulation until the late ’80s, and it has only grown in popularity since; its presence in literature pushed the movement in to the public eye and from that point, it gained momentum in fashion, film, and music. Now it is more than just a part of science fiction as its fun, DIY characteristics have spread into popular culture. Every good pop culture movement has standout accessories, so read on to see a few of our favorite steampunk pieces and motifs!

Walking Cane 

Back in a time when canes were less utilitarian, they were typically an indication of the owner’s wealth and overall status. For a period spanning over three centuries, they were an essential part of the wardrobe and it was likely that cane users possessed a variety of canes to be used in a multitude of social settings. Their general use has roots in the male psyche where wielding a stick equates to power. Just think back to classic literature; Black Rod carried a actual rod, Merlin carried a wand, and Moses used a staff to part the sea. When they were introduced in the 1650s, they were considered exotic as they were made with foreign materials like ivory and Malacca wood. As time progressed towards the Victorian age and the Industrial revolution, the middle class became increasingly wealthy and used canes to illustrate that wealth in grandeur. This popular use continued until about the 1940s when everyone almost simultaneously seemed to lay their canes down in pursuit of more simplified accessories. They were mostly used as a walking aid until the steampunk movement picked them up again, giving their gear-oriented ensembles an added level of class! 

Cufflinks

Though it seems like cufflinks may account for just a small part of an outfit, their aesthetic value and ability to redefine your entire look is what makes them one of the most important accessories of all. The small but mighty accent piece began appearing in the early 1500s when men began using strings to tie their ruffled wristbands together. This continued until the Industrial Revolution, when chains and strings were replaced with rods and clips to closer resemble the modern cufflink of today. Despite the fact that shirt makers have now began to put buttons on sleeves to decrease the need for cufflinks, they are still seen as a luxury item and give one the opportunity to make their clothing truly their own. They give steampunk lovers a great way to incorporate industrial motifs into their elaborate outfits, tying together their retro-modern looks.

Pocket Watches

Abiding by the steampunk ideals of functionality, creativity, and retro aesthetics, pocket watches capture the essence of the movement with their gear-oriented appearances and chain accents. Originating in around the 16^th century, the widespread use of the pocket watch began with the rise of railroading; keeping precise time was crucial for railroad guards and this importance was so prominent that Levi Strauss designed his jeans with a tiny front pocket made exclusively for holding the accessory! Many steampunk aficionados prefer the open face style of watch, which allows the wearer to display the inner workings of the piece. The best watches to invest in are said to be made by Rolex, Movado, Omega, IWC, ad Patek Philipe and are brands coveted by steampunk fashionistas.

Hand Fan 

Though the hand fan was widely popular in Victorian Eras as a foreign symbol of wealth and class, their origin lies centuries prior in ancient Egypt, Greece, and Rome. The piece, which was originally thought be a sacred instrument, was used in religious ceremonies and by royalty. They were also used in China in association with ancient mythical and historical characters. At their conception, they were fixed and remained as so until Chinese culture birthed the folding fan and spread it westward towards Europe. The 17^th century then saw an increased use of folding fan, eventually causing fixed fans to become obsolete. They generally featured prints of all kinds, either painted or transferred on, and shifted from biblical tradition to contemporary pastimes. The Impressionist, Art Nouveau, and Art Deco movements highly impacted the design and construction of fans from the 19^th to the 20^th century and today, the steampunk movement has taken hold of the accessory to complement their Victorian aesthetic.

Gloves

Similar to the hand fan, gloves found their origins in ancient culture; throughout history, they have been used for both utilitarian and decorative purposes beginning in Greece, China, and Egypt. They did not come into widespread circulation until the 11^th century when they finally reached Britain after their conception 100 years prior. Originally, they were confined to soldiers in warfare and their use as a fashion accessory did not commence until the 17^th century when style and status-oriented interests surrounding gloves began. Both genders were involved in this practice until the 18^th century, when their importance in men’s wardrobes dwindled. With the 19^th century, though, their popularity burst for both men and women when social codes developed that called for gloves in public settings. If you were seen out gloveless or were wearing soiled pieces, you would be the target for ridicule and face accusations of poor etiquette. The 20^th century saw another shift in use of gloves as the World Wars’ rationing of materials and standardization of design proved highly fashionable gloves to be unnecessary. We saw a brief revival in the 1950s, but it quickly fizzled out by the end of the preceding decade. Steampunk fans love to use gloves in their ensembles, giving their looks a vintage flair with fingerless, lace pieces holding precedence.

Face Masks 

Steampunk face masks are very reminiscent of thoses seen at a masked ball, but more industrial in appearance. Many of them feature clock and gear motifs and are typically gold, silver, or black in color. Their style may vary, and their steampunk-ehtusiats wearers use them to tie together their entire outfit and overall personality. The gas mask is a popular style, emulating Victorian London where fumes and smoke were a part of daily life. The masquerade mask starkly contrasts the gas mask aesthetic as it is more fancy and associated with dancing at a grand ball. Eye patches are a viable option and gives wearers the opportunity to play with their story; maybe they are hiding a mechanical eye or some other industrial creation beneath the covering. The plague doctor mask may be the most startling in appearance, with inspiration coming from iconic plague masks used in the 17^th and 18^th centuries. The accessories were worn by doctors and scientists and are commonly known as bird masks because of their long, beaklike nose piece.

Pocket Knives 

The pocket knife has been in use for centuries from the Roman empire to the Viking era. In the 1600s, they began to become more affordable, widely distributed, and mass produced. Many different styles of knives began being designed for a multitude of purposes ranging from hunting to camping. The simple, folding pocket knife is the most popular in steampunk fashion and they are typically bronze or gold in color with gears featured throughout the piece.

Though these pieces are just the tip of the iceberg when it comes to steampunk accessories, we feel like these are major fashion components than can be seen in any steampunk lovers closet. Octopus, spider, skeleton, camo, playing card motifs are also commonly featured in this movement’s fashions with bronze and leather colorings. If you’re trying to prepare a steampunk look for this upcoming Halloween or an impending convention, we’ve got you covered! Click on any of the photos in this post or search our collection for steampunk inspired pieces that are sure to make you feel industrial chic!

Magnifying the History of Binoculars

By Paige McKirahan

As a direct descendent of the telescope, binoculars are a little bit more portable; whether you need a close look at a sporting event or are trying to see some big game in the woods, the functionality of binoculars are unmatched. The question we are posing, though, is how this steampunk-approved device came into circulation. 

Though the birth of the telescope is seen as somewhat of a mystery in the realm of history and science, Hans Libbershey is the first to be credited with the invention. The Holland based spectacle-maker was the first to attempt obtaining a patent for the star-gazing instrument in 1608, making it widely known regardless of his connection to its creation. Galileo Galilei, the great Italian scientist, introduced the device to astronomy in the following year; he used it be the first to see craters on the moon, as well as sunspots, Jupiter’s moons, and Saturn’s rings. This telescope begun an astronomical revolution and consisted of two lenses: the objective and the eyepiece. The objective were the convex lenses and the concave lenses at the eye-facing end were dubbed the eyepiece

Two of Galileo’s first telescopes

(image credit to pinterest.com)

These lenses allowed Galileo to magnify objects up to thirty times, but a major design flaw regarding back draw gave the telescope a very narrow field of vision, forcing the user to constantly move the device when viewing details in the distance. Looking to combat this flaw, Johann Voigtlander did so by creating the first set of binoculars, affectionately known as Galilean binoculars, in the 1820s. After he managed to repair the back draw issue, he also added eye tubes, which are used to better focus images.

Galilean binoculars

(Image credit to Wikipedia.com)

This style was extremely popular for the next three decades in the theatre, social events, and outdoor activities. They were often detailed with pearls, silver, gold, bone, or colored leather and were modified to resemble fancy glasses used at the opera. In 1854, though, a new type of binoculars took hold of the public; Italian optician Ignazio Porro’s innovative Porro Prism binoculars had a wider range and were better performing than their predecessor, making Galilean styles almost obsolete. From then on, inventors and innovators continued developing new binocular designs, ultimately shaping them into what they are today. Steampunk connoisseurs and sportsman alike love the instruments, with the former being more so interested in vintage, rustic styles. The creation of the piece and the overall look fits perfectly into the steampunk aesthetic and allows those dressing in the style to display their love for innovation.

Opera glasses and steampunk binoculars 

(image credits to pinterest.com)

Pioneering the Scarf Industry 

By Paige McKirahan

Seeing as how we have already learned the history behind the magnificent accessory, we begun to wonder about the designers who paved the way for scarves to become the classic piece that they are today. Hermes, of course, burst onto the scene with their wonderful silk designs that exuded luxury and wealth, capturing the attention of everyone from starlets to the everyday person. But what about the other popular designers that took the piece and molded it into something of their own? Read on to hear of our favorite scarf designers and brands throughout time (and to find some of their pieces in our shop!)

Glentex

When the brand first stepped onto the scene in 1939, it emerged under the umbrella of the Glendser Textile Co. that received its first registered trademark for lady’s scarves and handkerchiefs. In the following decades up into the 1970s, Glentex became increasingly popular and was widely known for their beaded collars and vibrant patterns. Many pieces were made in Japan out of a wide variety of fabrics, including silk and rayon. At the height of their popularity, they even partnered with our beloved Schiaparelli and Gloria Vanderbilt to create high fashion pieces!

Totes

This brand, which was popularized by their easy-to-carry rainboots, hails from our home state of Ohio! Specializing in rainwear and waterproof accessories, Totes truly began in 1942 and shot to fame after they introduced the first collapsible umbrella in 1970. From there on out, they began creating other popular rainwear, including the coveted water resistant scarf. This supermarket and drugstore brand is still operating today and boasts a large collection of colorful, waterproof accessories that even high fashion lovers love to sport!

Echo 

After its conception in the ‘20s, Echo began building an impressive arsenal of patterns that would build rapport until the late ‘70s when the scarf business began to see a decline. When the creators' daughter, Dorothy, took over the company after her husband’s death, she was determined to beat the dwindling sales and did just that in 1983 when the brand made its way into the European market. After a slew of licensing agreements with fashion and home goods giants like Ralph Lauren and Laura Ashley, the company began releasing more accessories and home furnishings that expanded their profits and popularity exponentially. Today, it is still privately owned by the family and this emerging lifestyle brand still celebrates their humble roots with their 95 anniversary just having passed in September. In their blog commemorating the event, they even go as far as saying that they feel responsible for bringing the scarf to the world of fashion (Bold statement! Do you agree?) 

Vera

Though there seems to be many famous Vera’s in the fashion industry (think Bradley and Wang), Vera Neumann is one of the most iconic of them all; her namesake brand made beautiful art affordable and not just a thing to be admired on the wall. With all of her scarf designs being based upon original paintings, it is evident that Vera had creative roots in textiles and illustration. When she began a silkscreen printing company with her husband George and their friend Frederick, it saw almost immediate success. In the midst of World War II, the growing company was looking for ways to continue manufacturing product despite heavy rations; she stumbled upon some parachute silk at an army surplus store and voila! Her scarf business was born. She created the first signature scarf in history with her name transferred to every product, making her a household favorite with recognition all around the country. Marilyn Monroe, Grace Kelly, and even the First Lady Bess Truman loved her designs as she requested the "Vera" fabric be used in White House Decor. Her iconic presence in both the art and fashion worlds landed her work in the Metropolitan Museum of Art, The Museum of History and Technology, and the Museum of Modern Art. She was even commissioned to paint the Foucault Pendulum in the Smithsonian, which can still be seen hanging in their offices today.

Elaine Gold

As one of the industry’s most knowledgeable scarf entrepreneurs, Elaine Gold got her start as Vera’s assistant where she was the studio business manager tasked with helping develop and market the scarf business. 19 years later, she joined another budding scarf business, Robinsons & Colluber, where she was one of the first to make waves in brand marketing for the scarf industry. She then joined another one of our designer favorites, Totes, and ran their XIIX Karats brand that she eventually bought in 1983. Changing its name to Collection XIIX, she built it into a powerhouse with licenses from Anne Klein and Jones New York. When Drew Pizzo bought her company in the ‘90s, she went on to create Elaine Gold Enterprises, which found its first license with the US Postal Service! She worked with the Met, Vera Bradley, and essentially anyone in the industry looking to promote their scarves as she was the “go to” expert in the field.

Though there are a wide variety of other scarf designers that paved the way for today’s successors, these are some of our favorites. In addition, Avon, Paoli, and Burmel created high quality designs that were affordable and can be seen in vintage shops all over the world. On the higher end, Valentino, Missoni, and Givenchy all have been creating luxury scarves adored by the industry for decades. To purchase any of these brands, check out our links throughout this post or search our collection to find some hidden gems of your own!