The Master of Bias: Charles Kleibacker

 By Paige McKirahan

 

Though there have been many iconic designers in the past century that have made a substantial mark on the fashion world, Charles Kleibacker may be the most enigmatic. Born in 1921 in Alabama, this American creator earned his nickname “Master of Bias” because of his affinity for complex gown designs involving cuts diagonal to the weave. Despite his iconic status in the fashion world, Kleibacker wasn’t always so well versed in the industry; he attended the University of Notre Dame and majored in journalism, which lead him to attend New York University for his graduate studies.

 

 

Kleibacker in 1565

(photo credits to threadmagazine.com)

He eventually relocated to California and met singer Hildegarde in San Francisco after running into one other in the same hotel. His large station wagon landed him a job as her driver and he toted around her and her entourage on tour all around the globe. It was in Europe when he finally realized his love for fashion after meeting a multitude of fashion designers through Hildegarde. His interest was piqued while in the offices of Christian Dior, and this prompted him to submit a set of early designs that earned him a spot at Lanvin in 1954. He worked there for three years and promptly returned to New York to work for Nettie Rosenstein, on the most highly regarded American fashion designers of her time.

 

Kleibacker for Lanvin, 1967

(photo credits to pinterest.com)

In 1959, he moved out of the shadow of others and into his own light when he began designing his own collection out of his brownstone in the Upper West Side. The line was a huge success and by the mid ‘60s, he was creating pieces for some of the most exclusive luxury clothiers including Henri Bendel and Bergdof Goodman. His trademarks were silk and wool crepe and of course, the bias cut; this special practice created designs that had a true cut look, not one that appeared stamped out.

 

Kleibacker designs

(photo credits to garmentozine.wordpress.com)

After his great success in New York, Kleibacker came to Ohio and became a Designer- in- Residence at The Ohio State University’s Costume and Textiles Collection. His work was a part of a 2005 exhibit there in the College of Human Ecology. He then became an adjunct curator of design at the Columbus Museum of Art and organized multiple fashion related exhibits. He remained there until the time of his death in 2010, when he passed away due pneumonia at 88 years old. Our very own CEO had the pleasure of working closely with him on multiple local fashion shows and events, making him also a close companion of our brand here at TalkingFashion. As an amazing designer so close to our home office, we felt it would only be appropriate to celebrate his wonderful life; one with a nickname like “Master of Bias” is hard to forget.

Sources:

Charles Kleibacker. (2018, October 06). Retrieved from https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Charles_Kleibacker

 

Scarves Throughout Time

 By Paige McKirahan 

 

Calling all scarf lovers! Have you ever wondered how this beloved trend came into circulation? Well, wonder no more! With origins tracing their way back to ancient Eastern cultures, the high-brow accessory has come a long way since its days of being used as a sweat cloth!

The use of a scarf as an accessory is said to be pioneered by none other than Queen Nefertiti in 1350 BC Egypt; the headscarf at that time was a status symbol that alluded to royalty and nobility, both of which were qualities possessed by the Queen. She is said to have worn a tightly woven scarf (or scarf-like fabric) under her iconic cone-shaped headpiece. China used the scarf as a symbol of status as well, but in the military more than in government or with royalty. Scarves were used as early as 1000 BC in Chinese military uniform to denote rank; higher ranks typically had scarves made of finer materials and lower ranks were cut from fabrics like cotton. It also has less glamorous roots in Rome, where its general purpose was not for style, but to help people keep clean. The utilitarian version of the scarf was used primarily in 10 AD as a sweat cloth with men wearing them so often that they became an accessory. They were worn either around the neck, draped over the shoulder, or knotted around the waist (similar to how they’re worn today!)

 

Chinese military statues illustrating the use of scarves around the neck, showing rank

(image credits to collegefashion.net)

As time progressed, scarves began transforming into something that was less functional and more fashionable. It is said that Napoleon gifted his wife Josephine a pashmina scarf upon his return from Egypt. At first, she was weary of the gift as it was exotic and not something that was typically worn in their culture (yet). Despite this, she is noted to have become an avid collector, accumulating over 400 scarves in three years that totaled to be worth around $80,000! When the cravat stepped on the scene in Paris in the 17^th century, it emulated military styling in the way that it was tied around the neck or, on occasion, brought up around the bottom half of the face. The French Revolution popularized this style and encouraged wearers to experiment with color and style to demonstrate their devotion to a particular side.

 

A French Cravat

(image credit google.com)

From this point on, scarves began to make their way into the mainstream, especially after Queen Victoria’s ascension to the throne. In the early 1800s, she regularly wore glamorous silk scarves and shawls featuring a variety of eccentric patterns. This 19^th century boom in popularity pushed manufacturers to experiment with a multitude of fabrics including cloth, cashmere, wool mixes, muslin, modal and of course, silk. Following this, the First World War transformed knitting from a hobby to a war duty, and women all over the world knitted scarves for soldiers in the air and in the trenches. Pilots used both knitted and silk scarves, with the silk providing protection from neck chafing.

 

Queen Victoria in blue silk scarf

 (photo credit to hi-fi-audio.com)

Quite possibly one of the most important contributions to the widespread fame of the scarf was made by Thierry Hermes’ fashion house; in 1937, the French designer created the first luxury silk scarf, which was crafted from imported raw Chinese silk. The raw material was woven into high quality fabric that was stronger and heavier than any other scarf material of the time. For the final touch, images and patterns would be hand-printed onto the piece to turn them into beautiful, vibrant accessories. Though the scarves were coveted by many, they were widely unaffordable on account of their expensive construction. When rayon was invented in the 1930s, it perfectly mimicked silk for a fraction of the price; this advancement allowed more people to become involved with the trend. The outbreak of World War II forced this material to be rationed, and scarves became more of a necessity rather than a fun addition to an outfit. Women operating machinery needed a way to secure their long hair to ensure it would not be swept away, prompting them to wear the scarves to do so.

 

First Hermes scarf c. 1937

(photo credit to vintagefashionguide.com)

Nevertheless, scarves returned to their glamorous origins after the war when Hermes beloved style became a favorite of the globe’s most well know starlets. Audrey Hepburn and Brigitte Bardot both wore them either around the neck or on the head; Hepburn loved the style and even went as far as saying, “When I wear a silk scarf I never feel so definitely like a woman, a beautiful woman.” The Princess Grace Kelly herself wore a silk scarf on a 1956 cover for LIFE magazine, and made headlines when she used one as an arm sling later in the year. Even Queen Elizabeth II wore a Hermes scarf when photographed for postage stamps, and loved the style so much that she continues sporting it to this day!

 

Queen Elizabeth and Grace Kelly in Hermes designs

(photo credits pinterest.com) 

This revival pushed scarves reputation as a luxury accessory and many fashion houses took it with stride as they began transferring their signature patterns, logos, and styles onto to fabrics. This continued through the ‘80s, but in the ‘90s, the market moved away from silk scarves and the public began searching for more innovative accessories. In the 2000s, we have seen some scarf revivals, especially in the past few years as many are beginning to favor vintage styles rather than modern aesthetics. Many “it” girls will now tie scarves around their necks, or even tie them to handbags to make them stand out from the crowd! Regardless of trend, we here at TalkingFashion have been scarf lovers from the start! If you want to emulate royalty or are simply looking for a stylish way to hold back your hair, check out our scarf collection; there is sure to be something for everyone from scarf savants to doubtful debutantes!

Milan Fashion Week SS’19 Accessories Trend Spotlight

By Paige McKirahan

 

Hello again, fashionistas! As Milan Fashion Week reached its conclusion on September 25^th, we thought that we would reflect its most popular trends predicted for the spring and summer seasons of 2019. Of course, many popular themes and aesthetics from New York and London were seen making their way down Milan runways; eye-catching neon and tie dye packed a punch in visually stimulating collections from Prada to Armani. We may have had novelty bags emulating food in London, but picnic-inspired motifs wowed in Dolce & Gabbana’s line along with their garden themed collection. Moschino, like many other brands, looked to the ‘80s for some vibrant inspiration, giving us Matisse vibes with their brightly colored tights and color coated metals featuring scribble details.

 

 

Moschino and Dolce & Gabbana 

(photo credit to accessoriesmagazine.com)

Continuing on from London, feminine aesthetics still reigned as vintage inspired florals bloomed on scarves, rings, earrings, and bags from Fendi and Versace. We also found new inspiration in beach style motifs with shells; though they usually tend to be a more bohemian concept, they were spiced up to a new level as they were mixed with metals, crystals, and pearls as displayed in Missoni and Etro’s collections. Moschino’s coated metals not your style? No need to fret; oversized pieces made from metals in burnished hues saturated the runway, greatly contrasting the delicate fringe and ribbon details in ready to wear pieces from a multitude of designers. Though we typically associated fringe with Western style, Byblos used bright colors and Brazil-like silks to offer a spin on the classic trend.

 

 

Byblos and Etro

(photo credit to accessoriesmagazine.com)

Asymmetrical and single style earrings captured the interest of many designers in Milan, with pieces ranging from simple, geometric styles to large, resin disks. Accessories also favored tubular constructions in both jewelry and shoes alike, with Tod’s putting their own twist on the style by added a scarf-like finish. Woven pieces have been a fashion staple for decades, but their Milan revival for summer 2019 offers a more grown up, darker glamour than the classic sandy-colored trend. Are you dying to pump up your wardrobe with some of Milan’s favorites in preparation for next year? Look no further than our collection, which includes all of these trends and more!

 

  



Tod’s, Arthur Arbesser, and Alberta Ferretti

(photo credit to accessoriesmagazine.com)

 

 

London Fashion Week SS'19 Accessories Trend Spotlight

By Paige McKirahan

 

Welcome back to the Talkingfashion blog, fashion week lovers! Today, we have decided to take a look at the latest and greatest trends from London Fashion Week that spanned from September 14^th to the 18^th!

 

 

Many of the aesthetics and motifs from NYFW carried over across the pond, with ‘80s references and bright color schemes presented by a multitude of talented designers.

Animal inspired designs roared in Richard Quinn’s and    Christopher Kane’s emphatic collections, both of which used prints and feathers to convey animalistic desires. There were fun themes put on display in lines that boasted mile high head pieces from Pam Hogg and a reimagining of fairytales by Ryan Lo!

 

 

Feminine aesthetics saturated collections with silk scarves and flowing details, perfectly accenting prim and proper designs seen in Riccardo Tisci’s first show for Burberry. Neon accessories and clothing were key in London (looking at you, ‘80s revival!) with single, dangling earrings in bright hues and large colorful hoops making statements in Fyodor Golan’s line.

 

 

Transparent pieces also channeled the ‘80s and ‘90s with Lucite lightning bolts and clear headpieces spicing up already flamboyant clothing designs. Androgynous styles originally popularized in the ‘70s are also a huge hit for this upcoming spring as Erdem Moralioglu’s Edwardian collection paid homage to male and female cross dressers throughout time.

 

 

Novelty bags and jewelry were the center of attention as vegetable inspired clutches were spotted accompanying models down the runway during Molly Goddard’s show. If you’re not into vegetable motifs, don’t worry; Peter Pilotto hopped on the novelty bag bandwagon as well with their ornate oversized and over-beaded bags.

 

 

In addition to food inspired designs, we also saw whimsical accessories inspired by bugs, flowers, and other household items in Matty Bovan’s collaboration with Coach.  

 

 

If you’re tired of ‘80s aesthetic dominating, look to the revival of ‘60s  tie dye this upcoming year as the colorful print is back and better than ever. Feeling like getting a head start on spring shopping or just looking for an excuse to buy some amazing new accessories? Check out our collections for pieces following all of SS ‘19’s trends!

 

  

(image credits to irishexaminer.com)