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Symbolism & Style: The Diverse Jewelry of Africa
Symbolism & Style: The Diverse Jewelry of Africa by Morgan Watkins
Africa: a continent represented by diverse cultures, art and rich history. While it would be nearly impossible to put into words the beauty of this land, part of Africa’s charm can be appreciated through the jewelry created and worn by tribes and peoples across its regions. Saturated in vivid colors, constructed through various mediums and holding deep symbolism, African accessories are much more than strings of beads and copper wire. Keep on reading to learn more about Africa’s intricate and intriguing jewelry.(Image from https://www.trekearth.com/gallery/Africa/Kenya/East/North_Eastern/Samburu_National_ Park/photo127575.htm)
It is said that jewelry in Africa dates back as far as 10,000 B.C., where jewelry was first constructed of simple natural resources. Animals were utilized not only to feed tribes, but also to create unique pieces made from bones, hides, and horns. Before trade was introduced to Africans, sticks, clay, seeds, shells, coral and stones could be foraged and utilized to fashion up jewelry. Beads became another valuable item for accessory making, as well as trade. Evolving from simple seeds to small glass ornaments, Africans were able to use aggri beads to barter with Europeans who entered the continent during the 15th and 16th centuries, when the African slave trade was beginning to rise. The more beads Africans had, the more valuable they were in the eyes of slave traders.
(Image from https://www.pinterest.com/pin/165648092516531850/?lp=true)
Speaking of beads, these tiny round items also serve a gaggle of other purposes. Dzi beads, echinacea beads and amber beads can either be consumed or worn by individuals, as they are utilized medically and as dietary supplements. Newborns commonly receive bracelets containing these beads as a way to physically and spiritually protect them from the outside world. Similarly, the dead also take these pieces to the grave. On a lighter note, waist beads, or strings of beads worn just above the hips, serve as a symbol of fertility, protection, seduction and healing. These accessories celebrate womanhood and femininity while ensuring prosperous reproductive health.
(Image from https://www.behance.net/gallery/5767485/Dipo-Ceremony-Krobo-Ghana)
For the Maasai people, beads are utilized to communicate various meanings via color codes. For example, red beads symbolize bravery and unity, white beads represent health and peace, and blue beads are used as a sign of energy. Not only that but the types of beaded necklaces worn by women communicate the marital status of the wearer. Unmarried women don flat beaded disc necklaces while soon to be married ladies sport elaborate, heavily beaded jewelry. Those who are married wear long strands of blue beads around their necks. Like the Maasai, Nigerian woman, too, wear accessory pieces to represent their courting status, which is presented in the form of woven bracelets.
(Image from http://www.freakingnews.com/Masai-Woman-in-Colorful-Clothes-Pictures-83725.asp)
Maasai women of high society are often styled in the most colorful beads around in order to show off their status. And like the Maasai, the Ashanti also use jewelry to represent social strata. Accessories in the Ghana region are usually limited to upper class individuals, who favor gold bracelets, armlets, anklets, rings, headdresses and more. Women of the Fulani, another tribe that loves gold jewelry, characteristically wear massive gold earrings as a symbol of wealth; the bigger the earrings, the richer the family.
(Image from https://interesting-africa-facts.com/African-Jewelry/Fulani-Earrings.shtml)
Egyptians, however, view their jewelry in a different light. Pieces created from gold and copper, often complimented with lapis lazuli, carnelian, and turquoise, hold spiritual significance and protect individuals from devilish spirits and bad energy. Egyptians wouldn’t even part with their beloved amulets and talismans when faced with death, as they believe their accessories could be carried with them into the afterlife.The Berber and Tuareg people also believe in jewelry’s spiritual powers, refusing to wear silver as it was deemed a metal of bad luck. Their jewelry is usually large in size, heavy in weight, and intricate in design. Geometric shapes are common templates for the Saharan region, and crosses are passed on from father to son in the Tuareg communities as a means to combat evil.
(Image from http://www.styleskier.com/five-interesting-facts-about-egyptian-jewelry/)
African men and women alike favor gold, but instead of wearing bracelets and necklaces like the ladies of Africa, men tend to prefer helmets and headdresses. Chieftains in Senegal model weighty gold head plaques, while Ashanti men at the Ivory Coast lean towards helmets constructed from stiffened animal hides that are embellished with gold leaves and wooden ornaments.
(Image from https://www.pinterest.com/pin/134474738844835952/?lp=true)
All in all, the intensely diverse and magnificent cultures of Africa all have one thing in common: their jewelry are works of art. Pieces like beaded necklaces and gold plated headdresses are a reflection of Africa’s people and their beauty, making this jewelry more than just jewelry. With a bounty of symbolism instilled in these pieces, African accessories perfectly embody how fashion can represent not only personal style and values, but also the world and the incredible cultures it encompasses. Looking for some stunning African inspired jewelry to add to your accessory arsenal? Be sure to check out our favorite styles on talkingfashion.net!
References:
Bello, Ebun. “Let’s Talk about African Gold Jewelry – History and Symbolism.” Zoede, 12 Nov. 2017,
https://zoede.com/lets-talk-african-gold-jewelry-history-symbolism/.
Fiandaca, Sean. “5 Things You Didn’t Know About Maasai Beadwork.” ThomsonSafaris,18 Oct. 2016, https://thomsonsafaris.com/blog/5-things-didnt-know-maasai-beadwork/. Katsande, Rukariro. “The Importance of Beads and Beadwork in African Culture.”
Wilderness Safaris, 11 Nov. 2014,https://wilderness-safaris.com/blog/posts/the-importance-of-beads-and-beadwork-in-african-culture.
Katsande, Rukariro. “The Importance of Beads and Beadwork in African Culture, Part II.” Wilderness Safaris,18 Nov. 2014,https://wilderness-safaris.com/blog/posts/the-importance-of-beads-and-beadwork-in-african-culture-part-ii.
Kimani, Natalie. “ANCIENT AFRICAN JEWELRY: Design History on the Continent.”The Designers Studio,22 Nov. 2017, http://tdsblog.com/ancient-african-jewellery/.
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Sustainable Jewelry: Wooden Accessories
Wooden Jewelry
By Paige McKirahan
As one of the most versatile materials in nature, wood can do everything from create beautiful jewelry to make paper. With the ability to be delicately carved and elegantly painted, it has been trending in the accessory industry for decades. Considering society’s movement towards a more sustainable future, this lightweight, natural material is highly sought after; its economical and eco-friendly designs have established itself as a frontrunner in sustainable product creation. Why, though, should we lean towards wooden creations rather than plastic and other synthetic products?
Of course, like many of wood’s natural counterparts, this material has been used for jewelry for centuries. In more modern times, the use of wood in fashion saw a burst in popularity in the 1930s and this went on until the 1950s. Mixed with plastic, glass and other materials, wood was used to create brooches, hat pins, and pendants. Some pieces were carved and painted and could be made by creatives at home or by jewelry companies. Many depression era manufacturers created wooden pieces that were comical and illustrated the artist’s great creativity. When plastics and other synthetics became popular in the late ‘50s and into the ‘60s, wooden pieces were forgotten as people were enthralled with the new, high tech products created by plastic molds. Despite this drop in circulation, wooden pieces are now attracting green fashion aficionados on account of their natural, sustainable style.
When creating wooden jewelry, the technique is based upon the grain of the wood; you work in the direction of the grain or across it, but never against it as it will crack the piece. To cut wood down to ones desired size, a gouge blade is uses to chip away the wood safely. Wood can enhance the beauty of a variety of other jewelry materials, included gemstones, bone, ivory, beads, and glass. Combining it with other organic materials can create unique designs that are typically carved by hand. Looking for a unique, environmentally conscious piece? Check out our selection of wooden accessories to get that natural feel without stepping a foot into the forest!
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Color and Fashion: Black and White
Color and Fashion: Black and White
By Paige McKirahan
As a true classic color combination, black and white has been at the head of major fashion movements whether they be minimalist, sophisticated, or grungy. We typically associate black and white color palettes with more old school style and most certainly old Hollywood glamour; the presence of black and white film during times of high profile fashion events can prompt this association, even though the clothing itself could have been in color!
This relaxed color palette, especially when it is applied to clothing, can set the tone for an entire look. It allows for stand out accessories or jewelry to pop more than ever, especially when accented with a brightly colored accent piece for contrast. Though it seems quite simple, it can add an edginess to a look that could not have been achieved with full color pieces. You can dress up these subdued hues with any type of accessories whether they be colored or colorless gems, coordinating black and white pieces, or wildly patterned accessories.
A lack of vibrant shades should not be a concern, as black and white works well in any context from a night at the ball or an afternoon at the coffee shop! Accessorize your look with some of our black and white jewelry, or amp up your black and white clothing with some of our more flamboyant pieces! Whichever way you decide to style this trend, you can be certain that your chicness will shine (even during this Halloween season!)
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Pioneering the Scarf Industry
Pioneering the Scarf Industry
By Paige McKirahan
Seeing as how we have already learned the history behind the magnificent accessory, we begun to wonder about the designers who paved the way for scarves to become the classic piece that they are today. Hermes, of course, burst onto the scene with their wonderful silk designs that exuded luxury and wealth, capturing the attention of everyone from starlets to the everyday person. But what about the other popular designers that took the piece and molded it into something of their own? Read on to hear of our favorite scarf designers and brands throughout time (and to find some of their pieces in our shop!)
When the brand first stepped onto the scene in 1939, it emerged under the umbrella of the Glendser Textile Co. that received its first registered trademark for lady’s scarves and handkerchiefs. In the following decades up into the 1970s, Glentex became increasingly popular and was widely known for their beaded collars and vibrant patterns. Many pieces were made in Japan out of a wide variety of fabrics, including silk and rayon. At the height of their popularity, they even partnered with our beloved Schiaparelli and Gloria Vanderbilt to create high fashion pieces!
This brand, which was popularized by their easy-to-carry rainboots, hails from our home state of Ohio! Specializing in rainwear and waterproof accessories, Totes truly began in 1942 and shot to fame after they introduced the first collapsible umbrella in 1970. From there on out, they began creating other popular rainwear, including the coveted water resistant scarf. This supermarket and drugstore brand is still operating today and boasts a large collection of colorful, waterproof accessories that even high fashion lovers love to sport!
After its conception in the ‘20s, Echo began building an impressive arsenal of patterns that would build rapport until the late ‘70s when the scarf business began to see a decline. When the creators' daughter, Dorothy, took over the company after her husband’s death, she was determined to beat the dwindling sales and did just that in 1983 when the brand made its way into the European market. After a slew of licensing agreements with fashion and home goods giants like Ralph Lauren and Laura Ashley, the company began releasing more accessories and home furnishings that expanded their profits and popularity exponentially. Today, it is still privately owned by the family and this emerging lifestyle brand still celebrates their humble roots with their 95 anniversary just having passed in September. In their blog commemorating the event, they even go as far as saying that they feel responsible for bringing the scarf to the world of fashion (Bold statement! Do you agree?)
Though there seems to be many famous Vera’s in the fashion industry (think Bradley and Wang), Vera Neumann is one of the most iconic of them all; her namesake brand made beautiful art affordable and not just a thing to be admired on the wall. With all of her scarf designs being based upon original paintings, it is evident that Vera had creative roots in textiles and illustration. When she began a silkscreen printing company with her husband George and their friend Frederick, it saw almost immediate success. In the midst of World War II, the growing company was looking for ways to continue manufacturing product despite heavy rations; she stumbled upon some parachute silk at an army surplus store and voila! Her scarf business was born. She created the first signature scarf in history with her name transferred to every product, making her a household favorite with recognition all around the country. Marilyn Monroe, Grace Kelly, and even the First Lady Bess Truman loved her designs as she requested the "Vera" fabric be used in White House Decor. Her iconic presence in both the art and fashion worlds landed her work in the Metropolitan Museum of Art, The Museum of History and Technology, and the Museum of Modern Art. She was even commissioned to paint the Foucault Pendulum in the Smithsonian, which can still be seen hanging in their offices today.
As one of the industry’s most knowledgeable scarf entrepreneurs, Elaine Gold got her start as Vera’s assistant where she was the studio business manager tasked with helping develop and market the scarf business. 19 years later, she joined another budding scarf business, Robinsons & Colluber, where she was one of the first to make waves in brand marketing for the scarf industry. She then joined another one of our designer favorites, Totes, and ran their XIIX Karats brand that she eventually bought in 1983. Changing its name to Collection XIIX, she built it into a powerhouse with licenses from Anne Klein and Jones New York. When Drew Pizzo bought her company in the ‘90s, she went on to create Elaine Gold Enterprises, which found its first license with the US Postal Service! She worked with the Met, Vera Bradley, and essentially anyone in the industry looking to promote their scarves as she was the “go to” expert in the field.
Though there are a wide variety of other scarf designers that paved the way for today’s successors, these are some of our favorites. In addition, Avon, Paoli, and Burmel created high quality designs that were affordable and can be seen in vintage shops all over the world. On the higher end, Valentino, Missoni, and Givenchy all have been creating luxury scarves adored by the industry for decades. To purchase any of these brands, check out our links throughout this post or search our collection to find some hidden gems of your own!
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