Fashion Without Boundaries: Genderless Designs Take Reign

By Paige McKirahan

Fashion is, in short, a form of creative expression; those participating in this expression should feel as if they have the freedom to wear what they want when they want, regardless of the restrictive gendered guidelines set by society. In a time that seems more accepting and open to new ideas than ever, discussions of gender fluidity are now front and center as debates of right and wrong flood the media. Though many aren’t choosing to embrace these societal changes, others see them as opportunities for self-discovery and evolution. Celebrities like Jaden Smith and Young Thug are prime examples as they flout gender norms with ease, wearing dresses and skirts simply because they prefer the style. In lieu of Fashion Week, we wanted to look at some designers that do not see gender as a barrier in style, aiming to create inclusive collections for all. With men and women’s styles now both walking down the runway in combined shows, the question of what is masculine and feminine is being posed. But, in reality, who gets to decide these distinctions? Do they even matter in the end?

Jaden Smith in skirts for various campaigns

(image credits to youtube.com)

Fashion has been crossing these lines for years and we have seen genders appropriating opposing styles since the ‘30s when menswear came into fashion for women during wartime years. But showing these both gender’s lines together truly allowed us to consider the distinct differences (or lack thereof) between the two. Materials and fabrics are the same, cuts are uncannily similar, and accessories are fluid. Many designers are also choosing to show these collections using androgynous models, further blurring the line between male and female. 

Raf Simons puts this androgyny to great use as he was the first to have a combined men and women’s show for Calvin Klein. As Simons began as a designer of men’s fashions, he used that knowledge and incorporated previous stylistic choices into creating clothing for both genders with feminine edges. Men and women were both in suits with blazers, sheer tops exposing nipples, and varsity stripe motifs.

Raf Simons Calvin Klein Collection F/W 2017

(photo credit to elle.com) 

Simons is one of the many designers using the runway to freely express the fact that men’s and women’s clothes can be interchangeable, but some designers are taking it to the next level and creating fully genderless designs. Offering a place in the industry for those who don’t find themselves confined by gender or simply do not want to abide by the norms, these labels have paved the way for this movement and have even prompted the Council of Fashion Designers of America to add a “unisex/non-binary” category to the NYFW calendar. 

One of these labels in particular is blurring these lines in a big way; Becca McCharen- Tran and her swimwear brand Chromat are aiming to make shopping less alienating by not using exclusionary language in regards to gender, making everyone feel welcome. She knows that being in a swimsuit can make one feel vulnerable, and wants to be sure that her brand has plenty of options for people from all walks of life, allowing them feel empowered in one of their pieces. The Phluid Project is also a game changer in retail space; Rob Smith recognizes that it is not a comfortable experience for those who want to shop in departments that don’t fit their appeared gender and began this project to combat that. He created the shop as a space for people who want to view fashion in a safe environment, exploring boundaries. He wants to eliminate gender expression and the concept that fashion or makeup should define your gender as he feels the practice is outdated.

An Instagram post from Chromat displaying gender neutral swimwear

(photo credit to highsnobiety.com) 

This trend has also made its way into the jewelry market as many people are now buying gender neutral pieces; it is now about the question “what does wearing this piece say about me?” rather than “was this piece made for me?” As more men are opting to wear jewelry, they are commonly choosing pieces that are characteristically more ‘feminine’. This new engagement takes them away from the traditional watches and cufflinks, moving more towards rings and bracelets that express their personalities. As we proceed towards acceptance of all and true freedom of expression, restrictions in the jewelry industry are truly breaking down. 

To conclude this discussion, I want to leave you with a quote from Gypsy Sport Founder, Rio Uribe, as you consider this move towards unification: “All clothes are gender neutral. It’s really about who’s wearing the garments and how they gender themselves. I love when a piece can be worn by anyone, whether they are cis, trans, male-, female-, or non-binary-presenting. Personally, I think that if kids weren’t told that blue jeans are for boys and pink dresses are for girls, then we would all be dressed as our true selves. So I design for people who think like me, who are themselves regardless of society’s expectations and regardless of what section of a clothing store they like to shop in.” Here at Talkingfashion, we believe that style is genderless and seeing these ideas being reflected on runways brings us great excitement. Always remember-- wear what you love, everyday!

NYFW Spotlight: Rodarte’s Meditative Return to New York

By Paige McKirahan

Greetings, style aficionados! For our final spotlight this week, we have decided to take a look at the Rodarte’s triumphant return to NYFW after a two-year hiatus. The romantic collection is quite possibly one of our favorite shows of the week; the bold, ‘80s inspired show was put on display in New York’s Marble Cemetery, moving away from the Spring Studio venue in pursuit of a more dramatic aesthetic. Drama is what they found as the rain paired with their dark set allowed the bright, flamboyant pieces to truly stand out. 

Photo taken during Rodarte show

(photo credit Google images)

The brand, known for its moody and ethereal aesthetics, could not have planned for a more perfect setting to compliment a collection filled with tulle, floral headwear, art deco jewelry, and oversized shoulder pieces. Inspired by Picasso and Kate Bush (diverse, we know), The Mulleavy sisters said that the set was meant to be a meditation on creativity. This rumination resulted in a dazzling display, incorporating pieces that garnered influence from a multitude of eras. The collection of gowns is cohesive, but also catering to a variety of styles ranging from ‘80s opulence to bohemian chic. Picking favorites proved to be especially difficult as there was not one piece that we did not like, but we managed to chose the following pieces as we felt they captured the essence of the collection perfectly. What do you think- graveyard smash or belongs in the trash?

(photo credit to elle.com)

NYFW Spotlight: Christian Siriano’s Hawaiian Chic

By Paige McKirahan

Hello again, fashion lovers! For our next NYFW spotlight, we decided to take a look into the vibrant and tropical collection designed by Christian Siriano as he takes us on a sultry getaway for SS 2019. Though the weather may be getting colder, this designer turned up the heat Saturday at his show in New York’s Gotham Hall, choosing to break away from the Spring Studios venue that is the headquarters for this season’s shows. Sitting front row for this island escape included Tiffany Haddish, Sarah Hyland, Whoopi Goldberg, and one of fashions most beloved best friends, Cynthia Nixon. Nixon is current running for governor of New York and Siriano made his support known with a piece in the collection reading “Vote for Cynthia” in a simple print on a solid shirt.

(photo credit to aol.com)

The designer said he found inspiration for his playful collection in chic island life aesthetics; he wanted the designs to be fun, colorful, and romantic, while still being visually powerful and exciting. He was truly influenced by the perfect dream Hawaiian vacation and he emulated it wonderfully with refinement and elegance. The collection begins with an assortment of colors and animal prints in daring silhouettes, while slowly incorporating tropical florals and vibrant neon’s. Siriano paid no mind to the fashion world norms as he had models of all skin and body types walking in his pieces, giving us a chance to see how the designs work beautifully on everyone. It was hard to pick only a few favorites from such a gorgeous collection, but we managed to choose five looks we feel really allowed his island inspiration to shine through. What do you think—tropical bliss or huge miss?

(photo credits to aol.com)

Remember to keep checking in on the blog as we will continue to spotlight our favorite Fashion Week shows and designers! To watch the magic happen on the runway in real time, head over to http://nyfw.com/live to view NYFW’s personal livestream!

Fashion Rationed: World War II Style

By Paige McKirahan

Though The Great Depression was nearing its conclusion at the end of the 1930s, the fashion industry was still shaking from the effects of its economic downfall. Moving away from the tubular styles of the 1920s, this pre-war period saw the revival of a feminine, waist cinching silhouette and made way for mass, factory produced styles. Don’t worry—corsets were still out of trend and the type of form fitting style that the ‘30s loved was that of an accentuated natural waist. The innovations in industry that made ready-to-wear a staple in design also allowed none other than Elsa Schiaparelli to pioneer zippers, making them a staple in this decade’s garments as they were ultimately less expensive than buttons.

Though daywear styles were simple and refined, evening wear remained glamourous and continued garnering inspiration from Hollywood starlets. Backless gowns became the centerpieces of long gowns and chiffon, silk, crepe-de-chines, and satin were used to create elegant and flowing lines. Women’s pants also became a huge hit in the late 1930s, popularized by “sailor” style which included buttons on the front of the high waist. Beach pajamas, one piece jumpers with wide legged pants, also became a wardrobe staple for women at the time as they were commonly worn for beach or relaxation days.

1938 women’s pants 

(image credit to vintagedancer.com) 

The beginning of World War II in 1939 placed an emphasis on global conflict rather than haute couture, pushing creative expression to the backburner. To support the war effort, common clothing materials began to be rationed, taking a toll on style and calling for alternative fabrics. Rather than using nylon and wool, which were both needed by the military, a new synthetic fabric called rayon was extremely popular for clothing in these wartime years. These fabric restrictions put a renewed emphasis on legs that we previously saw during World War I; less fabric meant simple designs with shorter hemlines were in now style out of necessity. Fabric rations were also responsible for the creation of the two-piece swimsuit in 1946 as creating a bikini was more economical than one pieces. 

An unforeseen shift was brought along in the 1940s that altered the fashion world forever; Paris was knocked from their throne as the leader in haute couture and style, with New York emerging as the new influencer. Parisian couture houses garnered disapproval from the public and many grew weary of top designers as it seemed they were in cahoots with occupational forces. Coco Chanel specifically closed down her studio during this period as she was criticized for her relationship with a high ranking Nazi official, tarnishing her brand. Claire McCardell, American designer, made use of fabrics that were not in high demand by the military like cotton denim, jersey, gingham, and calico for everyday styles. “War Wise” became trendy and patriotic colors were the “it” aesthetics of the decade as American style was making its first true marks on the industry.

Claire McCardell design, 1946

(photo credit to enews.com)

As the Great Depression lead into the new war, costume jewelry was still a wardrobe staple as movie star glam style reigned. Clothing was relatively plain and lackluster, so jewelry was large, colorful and decorative to compensate. Metal was in short supply, so sterling silver became the go to material and provided a base for large, colored gemstones. Vermeil also became popular for these over-the-top pieces; the material, which is a base of silver plated with gold, gave the look of luxury while remaining inexpensive. Cheaper materials such as wood, shell, glass, bakelite, and fabric were used to created pieces with patriotic symbols, flowers, bows, and whimsical animals. Popular motifs during this time included novelty shapes and prints, nature, flowers, fruits, and vegetables. Patriotic themes were common as it was important to keep morale up during the War; many wore brooches that were in the shape of the letter “V”, which was a common symbol for victory in this decade.

Cartier "V" brooch ad, 1945

(image credit to vintagedancer.com) 

Despite the glitz of the roaring ‘20s, the late ‘30s and ‘40s were forced to forgo glamourous habits for those more modest on account of the current political and economic climates. Regardless, this time period shows that fashion and style can persevere, molding with the restrictions of the time. Limits on materials forced designers to become innovators, creating timeless silhouettes that were not previously utilized in the industry. American courtiers really began to step into the global spotlight, and New York as a city secured its place as an emerging fashion leader. To celebrate this victory, head over to our collection to get you some ‘30s and ’40s pieces of your own!

Fashion’s Favorite Week Returns

By Paige McKirahan

Hello fashionistas! As you may know (or we would hope so, anyway), New York Fashion Week has finally returned to give us an inside look at this upcoming spring and summer’s hottest trends. Beginning on September 5^th, these seven days of glamour attract buyers, press, and pop culture phenomena to the streets of New York with the goal of celebrating designers in prestige and style. 

NYFW, which began in 1943, was created by Eleanor Lambert, a press director for the New York Dress Institute. At this time, you wouldn’t see your favorite actress or singer in the front row; what was formerly known as “Press Week” was truly only open to the press, with no buyers or industry figures permitted. She created the event to pull the public’s attention away from the fact that they were unable to travel to Paris to view shows during the second World War and hopefully shift focus to American designs. The event saw huge success and lead to publications like Vogue being more open to discussions of American creations more than ever before.

Eleanor Lambert at the first NYFW

(photo credits to guestofaguest.com)

In the mid 1950s, the name of the event was changed to “The Press Week of New York” and shows were held all over the city in venues of the designer’s choice. After that method proved to be disastrous (i.e. Michael Kors model’s getting hit with falling pieces of ceiling. Ouch!), the head of the Council of Fashion Designers of America, Fern Mallis, moved all of the shows into white tents in Bryant Park. After that change in 1993, the name of NYFW was changed to “7^th on 6^th” after the event company that was founded by CFDA. 8 years later, IMG bought the event and officially renamed it New York Fashion Week. Mercedes-Benz, the current sponsor of the shows, has been supporting the Week since 2007, and the event grew so large that white tents in Bryant Park could no longer accommodate all of the insiders dying to gain access to these shows. The event was then held in Lincoln Center until 2014, then the skylights at Moynihan Station and Clarkson Square up until its arrival at the current venue.

Bryant Park during Fashion Week c. 1998

(Image credit to nytimes.com)

This year, the shows are being held in galleries at Spring Studios on Varick Street and many designers choose to utilize this space. In contrast, many also choose to have their events at more original venues outside of the IMG umbrella, like the John Elliot Co. show that could be seen at Pier 62 Skate park. Though Elliot put on a fabulous display, we were looking to spotlight a designer that is the true epitome of fabulousness: Jeremy Scott. 

Scott’s SS ’19 show was a playful look back at Jeremy in his early teens; the designer reminisced to his star studded audience about the fact that he most literally does not throw anything away and hasn’t since he was around 13 years old. He recalled that at that age, he once threw away a shirt he though he didn’t like anymore, regretting it only days later. That anguish prompted him to keep everything from that point on, creating a personal collection and style that was beautifully emulated in this NYFW display.

For this show, the designer ultimately looked inward for inspiration; as his own muse, he reflected on all the years that he was designing his own clothing and looks with no one to practice them on but himself. Polaroid’s of an adolescent Scott adorned pieces in the collection along with sequins, crystals, and 3D embroideries reading “RIOT”, “PEACE”,”SEX”, and “SHOCK”. His classic 1990s aesthetics were refined on an entirely new level than his previous work; his polishing in the leather and sport mesh pieces is sophisticated despite their youthful inspiration. Though he makes overt political statements with his weird and in-your-face style, it has a sense of refinement that allows his influence to truly shine through.

Here are some of our favorite looks from the show. What do you think—fab or drab?

 Spring 2019 Ready to Wear Jeremy Scott 

(Photo credits to vogue.com)

Take a note from Jeremy and be unapologetically yourself in the most brazen, emphatic way. Who better to be a muse for your creative expression than yourself?

Be sure to keep an eye on our blog over the next week as we will be spotlighting our other favorite Fashion Week shows and designers! To watch the magic happen on the runway in real time, head over to http://nyfw.com/live to view NYFW’s personal livestream!