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The History of Sustainable Fashion
The History of Sustainable Fashion by Morgan Watkins
With our planet warming and our landfills piling up all across the globe, talks of sustainable living has made room for itself at the dinner table in fashion society. The ever-booming business of fast fashion and the consumer attitude of obsessive excess has projected fashion in a negative light with regards going green initiatives. But many brands and designers are putting their foot down for a future that is as eco-friendly as it is fabulous. Read on to learn about the origins of green fashion and how industry giants are working towards a better, cleaner future.Back in ancient times, civilizations relied entirely on natural materials to construct their clothing. Garments were commonly made of animal hides, skins, furs and bones in order to utilize every part of the creatures they hunted. Leaves and twigs were other resources widely used to clothe individuals, until the practice of weaving came around in Egypt around 3400 B.C. Since then, a multitude of fabrics have been created from both natural and synthetic goods. Common examples of natural fabrics would be cotton and silk, which are characteristically better for the environment as they are made from products that will likely break down over time. Even so, some of these fabrics are treated with harmful chemicals, making them toxic for the environment. Synthetic textiles, which were first introduced in the late 19th century, are harmful to the planet due to their resistance to decompose; think nylon, acrylic and polyester.
(Image from http://www.experience-ancient-egypt.com/ancient-egyptian-culture/ancient-egyptian-life/ ancient-egyptian-clothes)
So when did the production of clothing become an environmental hazard? Let’s jump into the late 18th century, where the sewing machine was invented and factories were popping up rapidly across the United States. Before the Industrial Revolution, and even the decades following, it was common for families to construct their own clothing, which meant smaller closets and less textile waste. But as strip malls and department stores took over the country by the 20th century, post-war consumers were hungry for fast fashion. Corporations fed this hunger, employing child laborers to work long hours and in horrid conditions to produce large quantities of clothes in a short amount of time. Even when labor laws regulated factory conditions, the demand for fashion was through the roof, so production continued to match its pace.
(Image from https://bellatory.com/fashion-industry/Ready-to-Wear-A-Short-History-of-the-Garment-In dustry)
But by the 1960s, things started to change. With political movements surrounding civil rights and anti-Vietnam protests, people began to pay attention to other world issues like pollution, deforestation and a variety of other matters revolving around the planet and its wellbeing. It’s this era that produced the phrase “tree huggers,” as the first Earth Day was celebrated in April of 1970. With the rise of eco-friendly consciousness came the rise of DIY fashion. Hippies began taking on patchworking as a major fashion statement, sewing paisley printed panels into the sides of their bellbottoms to create an extra dramatic flared shape. The act of revamping old clothes and making them new carried over for decades, as bedazzling and embroidering was in during the 80s, 90s and even early 2000s.
(Image from https://www.neimanmarcus.com/p/ag-adriano-goldschmied-angel-high-waist-flare-jeans- 11-years-patchwork-prod180770241)
More recently, designers like Stella McCartney have begun to pave the way for a future in fashion that is eco-friendly and ethical. The brand uses only sustainable fabrics which won’t harm the planet, or uses recycled materials to create fabulous garments and accessories. Not only that but McCartney’s collections are 100% vegan, so you don’t have to fret about the designer’s fashion impact on animals and their ecosystems. Going hand in hand with this initiative is Vancouver and Seattle’s Eco Fashion Week. Similar to all other Fashion Weeks we know and love, this forum features collections that are Earth-conscious and sustainable. Shows first started in Vancouver, B.C. in 2010, where spring collections were sent down the runway. Fall collections were showcased as the event expanded into Seattle, Washington in 2016. Since the birth of this momentous fashion movement, 150 designers have been represented within 12 editions.
(Image from hype beast.com/2018/10/stella-mccartney-spring-summer-2019-runway-paris-fashion-week)
So what can you do to lessen your carbon footprint via fashion? Shop secondhand! Buying vintage or thrifted goods keeps clothes in your closet and out of landfills and incinerators. And if you have pieces you’re considering trashing, stop for a second and decide whether or not the garment can be spruced up or repurposed. Patchwork is in! Just look to Ralph Lauren and Jeremy Scott’s Spring/Summer 2019 collections for inspiration. Or practice adding some delicate floral embroidery to spruce up a simple white tee. Otherwise, donate your clothing to those in need, take them to a thrift store, or sell secondhand with talkingfashion.net! Every step you take towards going green makes a world of difference, no matter how big or small.(Image from https://www.buro247.my/instagram/ralphlauren/13518279)
References:
Atamian, Luna. “Sustainable Fashion Is the Next Fashionable Thing.” Huffington Post, 12 Sept. 2017, https://www.huffingtonpost.com/entry/sustainable-fashion-is-the-next-fashionable-thing_ us_59b7e84de4b08f6632c076f9.
Farra, Emily. “Stella McCartney Discusses How Sustainable Fashion Can Be Sexy—And ‘How Technology Can Save Us.’” Vogue, 12 Oct. 2017, https://www.vogue.com/article/vogue-forces-of-fashion-stella-mccartney-sustainable. Gonzalez, Nyelli. “A Brief History of Sustainable Fashion.” Triple Pundit, 19 Feb. 2015,https://www.triplepundit.com/special/sustainable-fashion-2014/brief-history-sustainable-f ashion/.
Loewe, Emma. “Meet The Sustainable Fabrics That Will Kick-Start Your Capsule Wardrobe.” Mbg Planet,https://www.mindbodygreen.com/0-28720/meet-the-sustainable-fabrics-that-will-kickstar t-your-capsule-wardrobe.html.
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From Catholicism to Couture: The Fashion Cross
From Catholicism to Couture: The Fashion Cross
By Paige McKirahan
Fashion is like a religion for some, so it is only customary that it finds inspiration in true religious symbols. Moving away from its original use as a Christian icon, the cross has now made its mark in the couture world. The “fashion cross” is definitely not a new phenomenon, but people now more than ever are wearing it purely for aesthetic purposes. Starting in the ‘80s, the popularity of this symbol as an figure in the fashion industry exploded as the punk movement made controversial pieces cornerstones in their style. If you have ever seen pop culture and haute couture icons Madonna or Lady Gaga on stage, you have definitely seen this trend on display.
Lady Gaga and Madonna sporting crosses
(photo credits to thecut.com)
The cross has been referred to as the “ultimate shape”; whether they are used in a true religious context or not, their wearers seem to be fascinated with the object’s spiritualism. This symbol can be worn to make a statement that is thought provoking or even to express artistic interest. Bolder variations are a hit with rappers and performers alike, and they prefer to wear them covered in diamonds. Crosses are commonly seen on necklaces and rings, while also being the inspiration for thousands of clothing designs worn by everyone from celebrities to your favorite street style aficionados.
Nevertheless, there are those who are religious and choose not to wear the symbol, while there are other that don’t wear it simply because they fear it would be offensive. In the wake of this year’s Met Gala, an event whose entire theme was based upon the intermingling of Catholicism and fashion, brought this conversation of right and wrong to the forefront. This fundraising affair for the museum saw the artists from all mediums step out in cross-covered ensembles from Versace to McQueen. There were even over 50 pieces given directly from the Vatican for the exhibit that went hand in hand with the religious theme.
Madonna in her element at the 2018 Met Gala
(photo credits the dailymail.com)
Despite the controversy surrounding the use of religious motifs for fashion contexts, it is obvious that the past few decades have changed the standards regarding what is fair game in the world of trends. Head over to our collection and find a wide array of cross accessories that are sure to add some flair to any outfit!
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Prints & Why We Love Them
Prints & Why We Love Them by Morgan Watkins
Have you ever slipped into a classic striped sweater and felt an indescribablesense of cheer? Is your favorite silk scarf abundant in paisley print? With designers far and wide dropping collections dripping in patterns, like Carolina Herrera’s Spring 2019 show clad with plaid and bursting with polka dots, it’s safe to say that prints bring out the best and brightest in fashion. But what is it about patterns that make people feel such joy? And where did these staple prints come from? Keep on reading to learn more about patterns in fashion.For as long as civilized man has roamed the Earth, clothing have served as a sign of wealth and status. The way you dress says a lot about who you are as an individual, and in that same vein, colors speak volumes as well. For example, bright colors, like red or yellow, evoke high levels of energy and happiness. Psychologically, those colors, and a plethora of others, trigger the release of dopamine, the chemical related to pleasure and happiness. Put these colors together into an aesthetically pleasing pattern and boom — euphoric happiness. Something to consider, though, is that prints aren’t for everybody. In a study done by the Psychology of Fashion, it was noted that optimists prefered prints while those with less of a sunny disposition were opposed. “One of the biggest differences was rooted in the trait of neuroticism,” noted TPOF writer, Natalie Ovadia. “Those who loved prints were more optimistic, worried less and found it easier to stay in a good mood, while those who disliked prints were more prone to anxiety and worry, but were more creative and fashion-forward.”
(Image from https://www.fashiongonerogue.com/jessiann-gravel-summer-prints-fashion-editorial/)
Arguably one of the most popular, peppy patterns are polka dots. According to Artteca, polka dots were first referenced by Godey’s Lady’s Book, a popular magazine from the early 1800s. It was in 1857 that the magazine made mention of the pattern, which was printed on a scarf. By the beginning of the 20th century, polka dots made a splash when Miss America Norma Smallwood wore an iconic spotted swimsuit in 1926. Just two years later, Minnie Mouse was drawn in her signature polka dot get up. This lead to dotted mania in the 1930s, manifesting in the forms of ribbons, dresses and bows.
(Image from https://talkingfashion.net/products/copy-of-sail-boat-nautical-figural-whimsical-red-blue- white-beige-vintage-clip-earrings)
Although they initially served as a symbol of condemnation, stripes were another pattern that rapidly rose to fame. Originally worn by prisoners, prostitutes, and hangmen in Medieval Times, stripes weren’t truly accepted by higher class society until Queen Victoria dressed her dashing son, Albert Edward, in a striped sailor suit for a trip on the Royal Yacht. Around this era, the navy seamen of Northern France adopted knit and wool sweaters with horizontal blue and white stripes as their primary uniforms. Inspired by the fashion and nautical themes of these mid-19th century sailors was the one and only Coco Chanel. In 1917, the designer featured a collection straight from the sea with stripes galore. Stripes gained big screen exposure in 1953, thanks to Marlon Brando inThe Wild One. James Dean also brought stripes into the spotlight in Rebel Without a Cause, along with renowned artists Pablo Picasso and Andy Warhol sporting Breton striped tops. The popular print became a style staple for the ladies of Hollywood as well, as Audrey Hepburn and Brigitte Bardot clung to their signature stripes as if their lives depended on it.
Another trend adored by print lovers the world over is the oh-so classic plaid. The oldest remnant of plaid printed fabric dates back 3,000 years, and was discovered with the remains of a mummy that was buried within the western Chinese desert. Fast forward to 1500, plaid was referred to as “tartan,” and worn prominently by the Scottish military. It wasn’t until the British and Americans started creating tartan fashions of their own that the pattern was renamed plaid. The print became really hot in the 60s when the surfer rock band, The Beach Boys, popularized plaid by sporting printed Pendleton shirts. By the 70s, the pattern was pretty much everywhere, from power suits to TV shows like Charlie’s Angels and The Brady Bunch. With the rise of grunge style and music in the 90s, plaid continued to shine as a classic pattern staple for everyone from Kurt Cobain to Britney Spears.
(Image from https://talkingfashion.net/products/copy-of-vakko-designer-scarf-brown-tuxedo-burgundy -red-navy-long-silk-scarf-necktie-vintage-accessory)
Like plaid is to grunge, paisley is to boho. While this unique pattern may have been loved by hippies in the 70s and bandana wearing bikers in the 80s, paisley’s origins actually started far from the States. The paisley print was birthed from Persian and Indian culture, representing life, fertility and eternity. But since being turned into a rock ‘n roll staple by The Beatles in the 1960s, paisley evolved from a pattern of symbolism to a signature style for artists and musicians worldwide. David Bowie, Mick Jagger, and other male musicians took the bohemian trend and added their own edge to it. More recently, brands like like Zimmermann, Dolce & Gabbana, and Etro jumped on paisley for Spring/Summer 2019 to add a free spirited twist to their high fashion collections.
Prints in fashion are like sprinkles for ice cream — they add immense color, vibrancy and fun. But more importantly, patterns can be a means of expressing your own unique style and personality, whether that be through a cozy plaid scarf or a full blown Cher Horowitz plaid ensemble. Check out talkingfashion.net for patterned pieces that pop or to consign your own printed fashions!
References:
Baines, Wesley. “How Looking Great Can Make You Happier.” BeliefNet, https://www.beliefnet.com/inspiration/the-psychology-of-fashion-how-looking-great-can-make-you-happier?p=2.Baker, Lindsay. “Paisley: The Story of a Classic Bohemian Print.” BBC,6 Nov. 2017, http://www.bbc.com/culture/story/20151021-paisley-behind-rocks-favourite-fashion.
Barnes, Sarah. “From Coco Chanel to Alexa Chung: A Brief History of the Iconic Breton Stripe.” Style Caster, http://stylecaster.com/breton-stripe/.
Desimone, Lindsey. “A Brief History of...Plaid.” Elle Decor, 18 Nov. 2015, https://www.elledecor.com/design-decorate/trends/a7612/history-of-plaid/.
Kaplan, Sarah. “The Scientific Reason Your World Brightens up When You Do.” The Washington Post, 3 Sept. 2015, The Washington Post, http://www.tpof-thepsychologyoffashion.com/features/fashion-psychology.
Lewis, Danny. “A Brief History of Plaid.” The Smithsonian, 20 Nov. 2015, https://www.smithsonianmag.com/smart-news/brief-history-plaid-180957342/.
Ovadia, Natalie. “ Tale of Love & Hate: The Big Print Divide.” The Psychology of Fashion,27 Oct. 2017, http://www.tpof-thepsychologyoffashion.com/features/fashion-psychology.
“The History of Patterns in Fashion.” Artteca, 17 Nov. 2016, https://artteca.com/blogs/artteca/the-history-of-patterns-in-fashion.
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Color and Fashion: Black and White
Color and Fashion: Black and White
By Paige McKirahan
As a true classic color combination, black and white has been at the head of major fashion movements whether they be minimalist, sophisticated, or grungy. We typically associate black and white color palettes with more old school style and most certainly old Hollywood glamour; the presence of black and white film during times of high profile fashion events can prompt this association, even though the clothing itself could have been in color!
This relaxed color palette, especially when it is applied to clothing, can set the tone for an entire look. It allows for stand out accessories or jewelry to pop more than ever, especially when accented with a brightly colored accent piece for contrast. Though it seems quite simple, it can add an edginess to a look that could not have been achieved with full color pieces. You can dress up these subdued hues with any type of accessories whether they be colored or colorless gems, coordinating black and white pieces, or wildly patterned accessories.
A lack of vibrant shades should not be a concern, as black and white works well in any context from a night at the ball or an afternoon at the coffee shop! Accessorize your look with some of our black and white jewelry, or amp up your black and white clothing with some of our more flamboyant pieces! Whichever way you decide to style this trend, you can be certain that your chicness will shine (even during this Halloween season!)
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Creeping Into the World of Jewelry: The History of Insect Motifs
Creeping Into the World of Jewelry: The History of Insect Motifs
By Paige McKirahan
Over time, we have observed designers and innovators create pieces of art and fashion that reflect the interests of society. Given our long standing fascination with nature, it was only natural that insect motifs would crawl their way into the wild world of accessories. From using real insects to creating them out of diamonds and pearls, this aesthetic choice has been popular for centuries and it seems that it is here to stay.
As many common themes in jewelry do, the practice of incorporating insects in accessories has roots in ancient Egypt. Scarabs in amulets were widely popularized and most of the time, real scarabs would be used in the creation of these pieces. Butterflies, which are the most popular insects depicted in fashion, were incorporated into Egyptian bracelets as early as 2600 B.C. It has been said that wearing insect motifs has long been associated with the symbolism surrounding each of these arthropods. The cicada along with some variations of beetles and butterflies have positive attributes relating to immortality, rebirth, rejuvenation, longevity, and courage.
Why do we form these types of associations you ask? It could be attributed to the fact that we have been able to naturally or historically observe the lives of insects. Many go undergo the process of metamorphosis, where they grow and completely alter their appearance in different growth stages. Though ancient wearers of these designs may not have known about the science behind these transformations, they would have still noticed these obvious changes, influencing them to form the positive associations we are familiar with today.
As time soldered on, insects were incorporated into designs sporadically until they burst in popularity in the Victorian, Edwardian, Art Nouveau eras. Throughout these periods, natural themes were popular in all forms of art, from fashion to architecture. The emerging industrial era and romantic associations surrounding nature prompted the widespread use of insect motifs. Many featured depictions of moths, butterflies, and dragonflies, and were created from a variety of gems, pearls, and colored glasses.
Insects in fashion are still prominent themes in collections from Jeffrey Campbell to Betsey Johnson. Whether it be in ancient Egypt or the New York runways, we love the wild look of arthropods in jewelry here at TalkingFashion! Head over to our collection and search for your favorite bug-inspired pieces to accessorize any season!