Alexander McQueen: A Couturier's Timeline

By Paige McKirahan

 

 

It is very seldom that a designer steps into the fashion industry and stuns icons with such grace as Alexander McQueen. In celebration of his life, we have elected to spotlight this amazing fashion contributor as his day of birth is fast approaching. The couturier and fashion icon was born on the 17^th of March, 1969 in London as the youngest of six siblings. After leaving school at the young age of 16 to pursue apprenticeships with a variety of high-profile tailors like Gieves and Hawkes that were masters of technical clothing construction. This experience was followed by time with Angels and Bermans, where he mastered a variety of pattern cutting techniques, including the razor-sharp style that has become synonymous with the McQueen brand. After this transformative stint, he became employed by tailor and designer Koji Tatsuno for close to a year before he traveled to Milan to be Romeo Gigli’s design assistant. During these apprenticeships, he also attended the Rosetta Art Centre, where he received a recommendation from Yvonne Humble that sent him on to the MA fashion course at Central Saint Martins College of Art and Design. The skills that he learned during his time in these positions quickly earned him a high-class reputation in the industry as a designer with an affinity for flawlessly tailored designs.

This reputation was carried with him to St. Martins, where he was encouraged by the head of his course there to enroll as a student and receive a master's degree in fashion. He went on to do just that, and his 1992 graduate collection was so emblematic that the iconic stylist Isabella Blow famously purchased it in its entirety. Blow became a sort of mentor to McQueen, using her contacts and industry expertise to help launch his career. It was even rumored that she influenced his choice to go after his middle name, Alexander, when he finally had his big break.

 

McQueen and Blow (source)

During this time, McQueen grew as an artist with other designers in Hoxton, where he designed his second collection that led him to his "right hand woman", Katy England. England was appointed the creative director of Mcqueen's third collection and continued working with him from then on, being his "second opinion" on all of his major works. Following these collections, he then moved on to create the wardrobe for David Bowie's 1996-1997, which opened the door to a plethora of high-profile celebrity collaborations with icons like Bjork, Robert Lepage, Sylvie Guillem, and Russell Maliphant.

 

McQueen for David Bowie (source)

Through the end of the 90s and the beginning of the 2000s, McQueen built a reputation around his shocking runway displays; his lavish and unconventional style was like nothing the industry had ever seen, incorporating things like holograms and shipwreck scenes into his shows. He became one of the runway frontrunners, being credited with adding tur extravagance and drama to fashion. One of the most dramatic shows in of his career was for Spring/ Summer 2001 displaying a collection dubbed "VOSS". The centerpiece of the show was a class box based upon Sanitarium by Joel Peter Witkin; the box was unlit, making the reflections on the walls seem like large mirrors reflecting the audience's images back to them for over an hour. When the show finally began, the box became lit to reveal a gaggle of moths and a naked Michelle Olley relaxed on a chaise lounge wearing only a gas mask.

 

A photo from the VOSS show, 2001 (source)

In 1996, Mcqueen was appointed to chief designer at Givenchy, where he worked until 2001. Prior to this departure, he formed a partnership with the Gucci Group and they acquired 51% of his company in 2000. He remained as the creative director until his death, and this new ownership allowed his label to globally expand. He created men and women's ready-to-wear collections, accessories, eyewear, and a variety of fragrances that were available in boutiques all over the world at the conclusion of 2007. He remained at the top of the industry until his untimely passing in 2010, two days prior to the start of London Fashion Week. He still holds his title as one of the most iconic courtiers of all time and has received high honors including "British Designer of the Year" (1996 & 2003) and "International Designer of the Year" (2003). His brand continues to produce stunning collections and the McQueen legacy will live on longer than the industry itself.

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The United Kingdom Fashion Round Up

By Paige McKirahan

 

Welcome back, Talkingfashion travelers! Our passport is getting stamped again this week as we head towards the United Kingdom; while it may seem hard to remember which European countries fall under the UK’s umbrella, we were sure to do our research so we could be great tourists! The United Kingdom consists of England, Scotland, Wales and Northern Ireland, so it’s obvious that they have a rich group of bloggers and influencers in the midst worth spotlighting. Though there is no fashion week that occurs in these countries, that doesn’t mean they don’t know the industry from the inside out; some of our favorite designers like Vivienne Westwood and Alexander McQueen hail from great British states, as well as some of our new favorites you can find below! Read on to see which British bloggers are blowing up the fashion world this year and see if you recognize any names!

 

Inthefrow

 

 

Victoria Magrath, the pioneer behind this award-winning style blog, is putting her Ph.D. in fashion to good use; her expertise and perfectly curated aesthetic capture the attention of her followers, which would explain why time and time again Inthefrow has been rated the Best UK’s Women Fashion blog by Vuelio since 2017.

 

Disneyrollergirl

 

 

Since her blog’s conception in 2007, Naz Batliwalla has watched the UK blogging landscape completely transform and expand entirely over the past 12 years. She uses her platform to provide her audience with honest fashion advice and her affinity for the industry has landed her partnerships with high-end brands like Chanel and Dior.

 

Advanced Style

 

 

 

As one of our favorite accounts on this list, Advanced Style was created by Ilona, Joyce, and Lynna Dell who range in age from the early 80s to the early 90s. They focus on street style and advice for older fashionistas, making such huge waves in the industry that they even have a documentary created in their honor out covering their success! 

 

Shewearsfashion

 

 

 

Kavita Donkersley undoubtedly has blogger blood running through her veins; this Sheffield native has been running her now emblematic fashion blog since the age of 16 in order to share her vintage finds with followers. Today, she still discusses her thrifty practices in Shewearsfashion, along with her takes on fashion, beauty, and lifestyle habits. Her love of vintage made her a standout for us and her “Thrifty Thursday” posts make her worth the follow! 

 

A Fashion Fix

 

 

 

This Brighton based blog is run by travel aficionado and the queen of simple aesthetics, Hannah Crosskey. Her feminine style with a twist perfectly encapsulates the cool-girl look that influencers everywhere are begging to curate. A Fashion Fix puts all of this on display and also offers a way for followers to get their hands on some pieces coming directly from Crosskey’s closet through Depop!

These influencers are just the tip of the iceberg when it comes to standout UK fashion fanatics and to check out who else is dominating the influencer landscape across the pond, check out this article! Moving on the brands, there are many Instagram-worthy accessory designers rising up among the rest of their British counterparts. To feel like a million bucks without spending that much to do so, check out these fashion-forward jewelry brands that are sure to make you (and your bank account) shine.

 

Edge of Ember

 

 

A one-stop-shop for all of your favorite gold separates, this jewelry brand makes dainty pieces that emulate Celine’s initial pendants on a budget. This female-led company was founded by Lynette Galdstone in 2014 and has ensured that her designs are ethically and artisan artistically created.

 

Alona

 

 

A brand that garners inspiration from vintage collections and Middle Eastern aesthetics alike, Alona is effortlessly chic and reminiscent of ancient Mediterranean treasures. The designer, Alona Shelemy, is the daughter of a fine jeweler; she understands the weight of her success and donates 10% of her proceeds to ocean conservation efforts.

 

Alex Monroe

 

 

Alex Monroe is far from a new player in the jewelry game; now on it's 32nd year of operation, his namesake brand features nature motifs in their handmade pieces with their iconic bumblebee design being at the forefront of their brand for over 10 years. All of the pieces are produced in the designer’s workshop in London Bridge, with an accompanying boutique located directly below!

 

Otiumberg

 

 

The pair behind this fashion-forward jewelry brand was more than qualified for the job when they founded their company in 2014. Christi and Rosanna Wollenberg, who are sisters with backgrounds in the fashion and art world, create contemporary silver and gold pieces that work with everyone’s style.

 

Missoma

 

 

Designed for daily wear, Missoma’s pieces are delicate and made to be personalized. Whether you wear them in multiple layers; add studs, pendants, or charms; or simply wear them alone in their original form, these distinctive designs are both refined and whimsical. 

Though this trip to the UK wasn’t long enough for us to pick up an accent, we did have a great time exploring all of the wonderful fashion finds that the area had to offer. Your following list is now going global, so why stop here? Stay tuned next week for a quick trip over to Italy right before Milan Fashion Week!

 

The United States Fashion Round Up

By Paige McKirahan

Following fast on the heels of the fashion week, we are traveling back to the United States this week just in time for the streets of New York to be overflowing with the most fabulous fashionistas from all over the globe. This fashion capital, along with the rest of the country, is the perfect playground for both street style aficionados and high profile designers alike, which will be illustrated at the helm at the first NYFW of 2019. Though it may feel like your timeline is saturated with subpar content from this out-of-this-world event, we are here to ensure you are following the best of the best when it comes to American brands and influencers. Read on to see who deserves all of the likes and reposts this season!

 

Julia Engel

 

This Charleston-based influencer created her blog, Gal Meets Glam, while in college and her chic style brought high-profile partnerships with brands like Tory Burch, Gap, and Coach. Her reach has only increased in the years since her blogs conception, so be on the lookout for her own fashion line launching sometime this year!

 

Nicolette Mason

 

 

This influencer is breaking fashion barriers with her funky style and disregard for industry norms. As co-founder of plus size brand Premme, this blogger is causing quite the stir among her 175k followers with her fun captions and unapologetic dedication to self-love.

 

Leandra Cohen

 

This influencer is an accessories lover after our own hearts; after the creation of her smash blog Man Repeller, she became an icon in the fashion world for encouraging women to wear what they love every day regardless of otuside opinion.

 

Madelynn Furlong

 

 

This Minneapolis turned LA-based blogger is a woman of many talents; in addition to running her blog Wide Eyed Legless, she provides her thousands of followers with runway-worthy outfit inspiration on Instagram daily!

 

Reese Blutstein

 

 

Reese Blustein, a 21-year-old influencer from Georgia, is taking the fashion world by storm with her twin sister Molly by her side. This Atlanta native specializes in indie, up and coming brands and details all of their fabulous pieces on her blog, Double 3xposure.

 

In addition to these amazing influencers, there are many brands being created right here in the United States that share our affinity for great accessories! Read on to see which American-made pieces  we are dying to get our hands on this year!

 

SVNR

 

 

Created by Christina Tung in Brooklyn, this jewelry brand's aesthetic is reminiscent of creations found in a preschool classroom. The fun, colorful pieces are all made from sustainable materials. An added bonus? They are all one of a kind!

 

Notte Jewelry

 

 

Jessica Say, the mastermind behind the Notte name, finds inspiration for her pieces when traveling between the two biggest fashion capitals in the world: New York and Paris. Her retro motifs and affordable prices make her a fan favorite, and we see her becoming one of Instagram's must-have brands this year!

 

Legier

 

Created right in LA, these Legier jewelry pieces are making waves in the world of Instagrammable accessories. The designer, who is a former art historian, uses their knowledge of design periods to ensure all of their jewelry feels like wearable fine art. 

Anita Berisha

Coming from humble DIY roots, this Pinterest-turned-couture brand can be seen on occupying shelves with the likes of Gucci and Balenciaga. Berisha's handcrafted pieces are classic and clean, appealing to jewelry lovers from all aesthetic backgrounds!

The Last Line

 

This jewelry brand knows how to catch an eye; their colorful, wild designs are sold by the piece and made for matching. A perfect mix of diamonds and all colors from the color wheel, The Last Line creates pieces worth breaking the bank for!

We hope that you have enjoyed travelling with us so far and have found new obsessions hailing from all around the globe in China, Australian, and the United States! If none of these have been your style, do not fear; stay tuned next week for our journey to the UK and Great Britain in search of even more fashion finds!

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A Voguish Valentine’s Day

By Paige McKirahan 

We all know that Valentine’s Day, the world's most beloved romantic holiday, is fast approaching as February 14^th is less than a week away! In the midst of your mad dash to find that perfect gift for your special someone in the name of St. Valentine, you may be left wondering: who is this Saint and why are we even celebrating Valentine’s Day in the first place? 

The history behind this day of love is somewhat mysterious; there are three martyred Saint Valentines that are recognized by the Catholic church and the stories surrounding them are all enigmatic, sharing the same emphasis on the saints’ empathy, heroism, and dedication to romance. The celebration of Valentine’s Day came on the heels of the saint’s popularity in England and France during the Middle Ages. This celebration first began as a festival and feast that most think was held in the middle of February in attempt to implement Christian ideals into the pagan celebration of Lupercalia. Lupercalia was a fertility festival dedicated to Roman gods Faunus, Romulus, and Remus. This festival began with Roman priests sacrificing a goat for fertility and a dog for purification in a sacred cave where infant Romulus and Remus were thought to have been cared for by wolves. They then took the goat's hides and dipped them into sacrificial blood, which was then used to gently slap women and crop fields to increase fertility. The women then placed all of their names into an urn for each of the city’s bachelors to pick out of, resulting in a pairing for the coming year that often ended in marriage.

 

Lupercalia celebration (source)

 

Despite the fact that Lupercalia was outlawed on the account of it being “un-Christian”, Pope Gelasius wanted to continue the celebration and declared February 14^th to be St. Valentine's Day at the end of the 5^th century. The association with love didn’t come until around the 1400s when the first written valentines began to appear. By the 18^th century, it was common for those across all social classes to exchange small gifts and notes with their loved ones to commemorate their affection for one another. 1900 brought the machine printed cards that began to replace handwritten notes as the preset messages made it easier to express one's emotions in a time where that was ultimately discouraged. Today, an estimated 145 million Valentine’s Day cards are exchanged this year, with women purchasing over 85% of those pieces.

 

Early Valentine (source) 

 

While this holiday tends to be all about romance, it is also one of the year’s best opportunities to dress up and wear what you love in celebration of the day of love! From heart motifs to a color wheel of red hues, Valentine’s Day fashion may be cliché for some, but we think it’s a fun way to bring a pop of color to the otherwise gloomy February weather. One of the most popular gifts given to commemorate the day (and one that lasts longer than chocolate or flowers) is jewelry; whether it is diamonds for your significant other or a fun new accessory for yourself, this holiday is a great excuse to grab that piece you’ve been debating about buying. While simple jewels in bracelets, rings, earrings, are necklaces are common when they are given as Valentine’s day gifts, this holiday’s accessories have a lot more to offer.

 

This jewelry buying sentiment didn’t come into play until the 1930s when Hallmark, the most famous greeting card company in the world, created a line of Valentine’s Day jewelry that took consumers by storm. Diamonds weren’t a popular choice until the 1980s, which means that costume jewelry prevailed and featured images like teddy bears, flowers, hearts, cupid, or other love-centric designs. Of course, most items are red and pink in tone, but some may go for a more edgy route and celebrate Valentine’s Day in black! If you’re stuck on what to gift to your loved ones (or to yourself!), check out our collections for some great gift-giving inspo!

 

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Fashion and Travels: English Hat Heaven

By Paige McKirahan 

 

All over the world, hats have seen their popularity and overall style fluctuate with market and consumer interest. One country that seems to be still be at the helm of the headwear frenzy after years of iconic hat moments is the United Kingdom. From the bowler to the fascinator, the British infatuation with all things hats has traditional roots that date back centuries. As a nation of self-proclaimed hat wearers, the accessory has been pivotal in defining class, gender, and occupation throughout for centuries. Long have they been associated with symbolic meaning, hats have seen a resurgence of popularity after the most recent Royal weddings have placed a spotlight back on millinery in a big way. 

The flat cap, which is one of England’s most iconic styles, can be traced all the way back to medieval times and became a subject of Tudor laws. An act of Parliament was even instituted stating that all males over the age of six had to wear a wool cap on Sundays and holidays; this became a requirement in 1571 and there was even a fine in place if they did not comply! The flat cap then became an icon of working class culture in the following centuries and prompted the birth of the bowler. Conceived in the Victorian Age, this style was a staple in the closet of the businessman after its practical construction quickly caught the eye of the public. There are many iconic wearers of this style like Liza Minelli and John Steed, but no one immortalized the bowler quite like Charlie Chaplin did when he made it a part of his famous ensemble!

 

Charlie Chaplin in a bowler (source)

 

The deerstalker is another essential British hat design that was made most popular by Sherlock Holmes. As the cornerstone of a Victorian gentleman’s hunting attire, this hat was not created for daily wear in the city and moving towards the Edwardian era, we saw millinery become widely prevalent in hat making. Designs became more elaborate and commonly featured decorative items like lace, birds, flowers, bows, and artificial fruits. Their grand design required the use of hatpins in order to secure their stance on the head, and they allowed women to sport their fabulous headwear even when they were out campaigning for women’s right to vote!

Moving into the 1940s, we saw the rise of the headscarf turban hat as women needed them to ensure their long hair would not get caught in machinery while working in factories. This turban style was a symbol of the war effort and lead to hats becoming an essential piece in the resurgence of Parisian haute couture. Though it seemed that hats would remain a classic accessory at this time, the rise of car ownership in the 1960s denounced the need for lavish headwear or utilitarian hats as they were no longer needed for weather protection or class demarcations.

 

A turban hat in action (source)

 

In the past decade, this British love for hat wearing has been revived with a new generation of Royals. Royal headgear has always been a staple in English culture, and thanks to the wedding of Prince William and Duchess Kate paired with the 300^th anniversary of the Ascot races, the hat’s classic status has been restored. Rachel Trevor-Morgan, who has been milliner to the Queen since 2006, has created hats for a multitude of royal events including The Queen’s 80^th birthday Service of Thanksgiving at St. Pauls and her Diamond Wedding Celebration. This amazing designer credits the Duchess of Cambridge to be a pioneer in hat wearing that will inspire wearers for years to come. Since her wedding, the Stockport Hat Works Museum, which is the only of its kind in the country, is peaking in popularity with their attendee’s headwear use even steadily increasing.

One hat-maker seeing great success is Piers Atkinson; his background working with Zandra Rhodes formed his eccentric style that can be seen on the pages of pivotal publications ranging from Italian Vogue to Tatler. His kitschy, eye-catching designs have been seen on the heads of Kate Moss and Dame Shirley Bassey, establishing himself as a classic contemporary designer with traditional techniques to match. Fred Butler is also seeing similar popularity with her hand-crafted pieces; as the granddaughter of a milliner, she has hat making in her genes and her skilled techniques are loved by the likes of Bjork and Lady Gaga. Hats off to Britain for having such a rich hat history, and we can’t wait to see how their style evolves over the next century!

 

Piers Atkinson Design (source)

Sources:

Magazine, B. (2013, June 17). History of hats. Retrieved from http://www.britain-magazine.com/features/history-of-hats/