The SS ’19 Scarf Revival

By Paige McKirahan

Is the impending cold weather giving you the winter blues before the season has even begun? Are you already scrambling to find gifts for your friends, whether they be fashion experts or trend amateurs? Scramble no longer, TalkingFashion readers; we have a wide collection of the one of the best spring 2019 trends that are sure to wow everyone on your list. As we have finally reached the conclusion of Fashion Month, bloggers and high profile magazines alike have begun to rounding up of the most prominent accessories seen gliding down runways this past September. They all have one favorite in common: the scarf. Across the globe, designers seemed to adore scarves whether they be fashioned into bags, wrapped around heads or even sewn together to make clothing.

In Paris, designers took scarf design to a new level when prints and fabrics commonly used for the accessory were instead fashioned to create clothing. Chloe loved the trend and attached long, flowing scarves to belts, giving us superhero chic with her feminine collection. Marine Serre and Ottolinger also boasted scarf like designs as many pieces in their collections emulated classic scarf motifs with ease. The bright colors, flowing silhouettes, and expressive patterns were visually stimulating and offered a new take on the classic aesthetic.

Ottolinger and Chloe SS’19

(photo credit to accessoriesmagazine.com)

Though runways in Paris boasted versatile ways to wear scarves, the most popular use for these fantastic pieces seemed to revolve around the head. Though it may appear that head-covering accessories are some of the most divisive in the fashion community, it is clear that designers agree that this long standing trend is here to stay. Tom Ford and Michael Kors alike featured a wide variety of head wraps with color palettes ranging from minimalistic chic to vibrant couture. Kate Spade’s SS ‘19 collection is quite possibly the most scarf filled of them all as almost every single model strutting down her runway was adorned with the fabric pieces around their neck or their heads. Whether you’re looking to accessorize your hair in style or simply elevate a look with ease, scarves offer a fashionable option that even the style amateurs in your life can rock!

Michael Kors, Tom Ford, and Kate Spade SS ‘19

(Image credits to elle.com)

Scarves Throughout Time

 By Paige McKirahan 

Calling all scarf lovers! Have you ever wondered how this beloved trend came into circulation? Well, wonder no more! With origins tracing their way back to ancient Eastern cultures, the high-brow accessory has come a long way since its days of being used as a sweat cloth!

The use of a scarf as an accessory is said to be pioneered by none other than Queen Nefertiti in 1350 BC Egypt; the headscarf at that time was a status symbol that alluded to royalty and nobility, both of which were qualities possessed by the Queen. She is said to have worn a tightly woven scarf (or scarf-like fabric) under her iconic cone-shaped headpiece. China used the scarf as a symbol of status as well, but in the military more than in government or with royalty. Scarves were used as early as 1000 BC in Chinese military uniform to denote rank; higher ranks typically had scarves made of finer materials and lower ranks were cut from fabrics like cotton. It also has less glamorous roots in Rome, where its general purpose was not for style, but to help people keep clean. The utilitarian version of the scarf was used primarily in 10 AD as a sweat cloth with men wearing them so often that they became an accessory. They were worn either around the neck, draped over the shoulder, or knotted around the waist (similar to how they’re worn today!)

Chinese military statues illustrating the use of scarves around the neck, showing rank

(image credits to collegefashion.net)

As time progressed, scarves began transforming into something that was less functional and more fashionable. It is said that Napoleon gifted his wife Josephine a pashmina scarf upon his return from Egypt. At first, she was weary of the gift as it was exotic and not something that was typically worn in their culture (yet). Despite this, she is noted to have become an avid collector, accumulating over 400 scarves in three years that totaled to be worth around $80,000! When the cravat stepped on the scene in Paris in the 17^th century, it emulated military styling in the way that it was tied around the neck or, on occasion, brought up around the bottom half of the face. The French Revolution popularized this style and encouraged wearers to experiment with color and style to demonstrate their devotion to a particular side.

A French Cravat

(image credit google.com)

From this point on, scarves began to make their way into the mainstream, especially after Queen Victoria’s ascension to the throne. In the early 1800s, she regularly wore glamorous silk scarves and shawls featuring a variety of eccentric patterns. This 19^th century boom in popularity pushed manufacturers to experiment with a multitude of fabrics including cloth, cashmere, wool mixes, muslin, modal and of course, silk. Following this, the First World War transformed knitting from a hobby to a war duty, and women all over the world knitted scarves for soldiers in the air and in the trenches. Pilots used both knitted and silk scarves, with the silk providing protection from neck chafing.

Queen Victoria in blue silk scarf

 (photo credit to hi-fi-audio.com)

Quite possibly one of the most important contributions to the widespread fame of the scarf was made by Thierry Hermes’ fashion house; in 1937, the French designer created the first luxury silk scarf, which was crafted from imported raw Chinese silk. The raw material was woven into high quality fabric that was stronger and heavier than any other scarf material of the time. For the final touch, images and patterns would be hand-printed onto the piece to turn them into beautiful, vibrant accessories. Though the scarves were coveted by many, they were widely unaffordable on account of their expensive construction. When rayon was invented in the 1930s, it perfectly mimicked silk for a fraction of the price; this advancement allowed more people to become involved with the trend. The outbreak of World War II forced this material to be rationed, and scarves became more of a necessity rather than a fun addition to an outfit. Women operating machinery needed a way to secure their long hair to ensure it would not be swept away, prompting them to wear the scarves to do so.

First Hermes scarf c. 1937

(photo credit to vintagefashionguide.com)

Nevertheless, scarves returned to their glamorous origins after the war when Hermes beloved style became a favorite of the globe’s most well know starlets. Audrey Hepburn and Brigitte Bardot both wore them either around the neck or on the head; Hepburn loved the style and even went as far as saying, “When I wear a silk scarf I never feel so definitely like a woman, a beautiful woman.” The Princess Grace Kelly herself wore a silk scarf on a 1956 cover for LIFE magazine, and made headlines when she used one as an arm sling later in the year. Even Queen Elizabeth II wore a Hermes scarf when photographed for postage stamps, and loved the style so much that she continues sporting it to this day!

Queen Elizabeth and Grace Kelly in Hermes designs

(photo credits pinterest.com) 

This revival pushed scarves reputation as a luxury accessory and many fashion houses took it with stride as they began transferring their signature patterns, logos, and styles onto to fabrics. This continued through the ‘80s, but in the ‘90s, the market moved away from silk scarves and the public began searching for more innovative accessories. In the 2000s, we have seen some scarf revivals, especially in the past few years as many are beginning to favor vintage styles rather than modern aesthetics. Many “it” girls will now tie scarves around their necks, or even tie them to handbags to make them stand out from the crowd! Regardless of trend, we here at TalkingFashion have been scarf lovers from the start! If you want to emulate royalty or are simply looking for a stylish way to hold back your hair, check out our scarf collection; there is sure to be something for everyone from scarf savants to doubtful debutantes!

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The 1960s: From Homemaker to Hippie Chic

By Paige McKirahan

The 1960s was a truly transitional decade filled with experimentation and defiance. In the earlier years, it was very reminiscent of the conservative styles popularized in the ‘50s, but the late ‘60s were the complete and utter opposite. This contrast makes you wonder if the extreme traditional values of the previous decade created this opposition where women showed more skin and were more flamboyant than ever. The world’s fashion leaders were shifted as the overwhelming British Invasion had to do with more than just The Beatles and Twiggy. The London look trumped Parisian couture and modern, youthful styles took hold of the public as new fashion icon’s bold aesthetics shook the industry to its core. 

In the beginning of the decade, Jackie Kennedy was the “it” girl of fashion; her style as simple, clean, well-tailored, and perfectly cohesive. She wore collarless dresses with one large top button, accessorizing with pillbox hats, sensible heels, and Chanel bags that were widely popularized in the ‘50s. Her global influence came to a screeching halt after the assassination of her husband, President John F. Kennedy, and she was removed from the public eye.

Women now had to discover a new fashion inspiration and found it in pop culture icons Brigitte Bardot and Mary Quant. Quant's style moved away from stiff, “adult” fashions and leaned towards youthful, short silhouettes with bold prints and accessories. Bardot, on the other hand, was very different than both Kennedy and Quant; her “tacky” and bold style was unlike any others that we had seen before and she was so influential that her pink gingham wedding dress with lace trim started a movement all on its own. We can also thank Brigette for popularizing the off the shoulder look, affectionately known as the Bardot neckline, that has come back into circulation in the past few years.

Brigette Bardot sporting her namesake neckline

(image credit pinterest.com)

As the decade zoomed forward, experimentation was brought to the forefront with mod style. Designers began revolting against traditional, waist cinching styles from the ‘50s and used the youth rebellion spreading from England to garner massive profits. The mod look boasted miniskirts, colored tights, low heels, mannish jackets, and ties. Shift dresses became trendy and their hem lengths were directly related to how women felt about their own sexual liberation, giving them a power over their own sexuality that was previously unheard of.

One of fashion’s most iconic faces, a icon known to the public as Twiggy, commonly modeled this style and had women stepping into freeing clothing that allowed personal expression. Colors and prints were inspired greatly by the pop and modern art movements, with bright hues, stripes, and Campbell’s soup cans adorning everything from dresses to bags.

Supermodel Twiggy in a mod shift dress

 (photo credits to pintrest.com)

This rebellion also is responsible for the birth of the hippie movement, which was a political anti-fashion statement that was so popular it became a mainstream trend. The late ‘60s saw an earthier hippie style than the 1970s and the more colors, the better. Extremism was a huge part of this form and it affected everything from accessory choice to silhouettes. Hats were oversized, vests were knee length, and coats drug the floor. Folk motifs were front and center, influencing clothing and jewelry alike with ethnic motifs. There were no rules with this type of fashion; you marched to the beat of your own drum with no regard for outside judgement.

The jewelry of this decade still loved the longstanding costume style, but designs became bolder and increasingly more expressive. Many jewelry producers began experimenting with lower cost materials, rejecting the idea that jewelry represented status. Textured gold was still popular, yes, but plastics like vinyl, resin, and Perspex could be produced in mass quantities for a very low cost. The Pop Art movement that was influencing fashion made its way into accessories, with large geometric shapes complimenting the simple shift dress silhouette.

Floral motifs that have been used in jewelry for decades’ prior were revived in a big way as the birth of the Hippie movement and Flower Power trend paired with the new plastics of the time allowed the designs to become bold and colorful. Long, dangling earrings also came into fashion as shorter hairstyles were in and clip earrings were out. Large bangles and statement rings were ‘60s staples and were easy options to update outfits that need a little bit more va-va-voom. Lea Stein was one of the most popular designers of the time; after she started her company in 1957, she began manufacturing buttons for apparel. She then made her way into jewelry and used layers of colored cellulose acetate to create her trademark character pieces.

Though this decade seems to have dipped its toes in multitude of differing trends, the ‘60s made its mark in the fashion industry and changed style forever. People no longer felt the need to conform to society’s idea of stylish and instead started dressing in a way that expressed their personalities and taste. I think everyone should be a little rebellious in fashion because without rebellion, how do will we stand out? To start a fashion rebellion of your own, head over to our '60s collection to find pieces that express who YOU are!

The Resurgence of Opulence and Femininity in the 1950s

By Paige McKirahan

As society was finally on the road to recovery in post World War II and Great Depression America, fashion began to reflect this return to the norm as it exploded into new directions and silhouettes. In 1947, Christian Dior created ‘The New Look’ collection, which the first from the couture house and his first as a designer. The goal of the line was to revive France’s international fame in the fashion industry and it was wildly successful; Dior’s excess use of fabric and extremely womanly forms were a refreshing change from the rationed simplicity we became so familiar with in the 1940s.

He was extremely fond of the feminine motifs used in the ‘30s and they were easy to bring back into circulation as women were greatly encouraged to fulfill their roles as beautiful, well-dressed homemakers. Influenced by Victorian era silhouettes, skirts became full and busts were padded to create tiny waists in shorter, sexier styles. Despite the fact that this collection was released in the late ‘40s, it became a huge inspiration for ‘50s fashion and set the tone for the decade’s biggest trends.

Dior’s ‘New Look’

(photo credit to harpersbazaar.com)

Fundamentally, the 1950s were a time of conformity and modesty. Women’s appearances were directly correlated to their husband’s success, causing them to spend more time shopping and updating their closets with the latest fashions in order to appear affluent. There were two main dress types popularized in this era: the swing dress and the pencil dress. The swing dress featured a full skirt and the pencil was a form fitting sheath style. Both had cinched waists are were shin length, but the sheath style was impractical to wear around the house as it didn't allow for much movement. Housedresses were full- skirted and simple in cotton, with shorter sleeves and collars. If a woman had errands to run, she could wear her housedress out and spice it up with matching accessories and a pair of heels rather than flats. Evening and cocktail dresses were glamorous and made of rich fabrics including silk, satin, lace, velvet, and chiffon.

 1950s day dresses

(image credit to vintagedancer.com) 

Skirts were full and commonly made of one large round piece of fabric, dubbing them 'circle skirts'. Fluffy petticoats were worn beneath them to add volume and some were pleated at the waist to give an added fullness. Pockets were common and were either hidden on the sides or adorned on the front as an added statement piece. Poodle skirts are quite possibly one of the most iconic styles to come out of this period, though they were not popular as we assume them to have been.

Jewelry in the ‘50s was clean, colorful, and ornate; as spending power increased in this decade, costume jewelry flourished and gave women the opportunity to coordinate their outfits with accessories effortlessly. Some novelty designs and patriotic motifs were still popular, but they were eventually replaced by classic shapes and colors that were easier to pair with clothing. Expanding on this desire for cohesiveness, many women wore matching sets of jewelry, which were commonly referred to as parures. At the beginning of the decade when pierced ears were not socially acceptable, ear clips reigned and were gem-laden and oversized.

Pearls enjoyed a huge boom in popularity as their chicness paired beautifully with the feminine styles of the time. Yellow- toned and rose gold was the favored choice, along with the synthetic plastic Lucite. Lucite played a huge role in jewelry innovations of the period and prompted the creation of the jelly bean pin; this style of pin was quite small and Lucite was crafted into tiny cabochon balls to form the belly part of the animal design. Trifari and Coro were both huge names in the jewelry industry as they produced the increasingly popular costume jewelry and were the largest manufacturers in the American market.

Clip on earring featuring pearl and gold accents

(photo credits to vintagedancer.com)

Small hats were worn by mature women in this time period, typically made of felt and adorned with flowers, feathers, or bows. Pill box hats, berets, plate hats, and the cloche popularized by Audrey Hepburn were all prominent styles and were created to sit delicately on the head as to not compress the hair. Hair flowers were a famous alternative to hats and were integral to the pin-up look. Scarves tied around the entire head or worn as a headband also accompanied the Rockabilly aesthetic and emphasized the hair flip style. One barely left the house without a pair of gloves, and matching them to hats and purses was a popular practice. Purses tended to be smaller and hobo styles were iconic, along with novelty bags made of unusual materials.

After two decades of rationing and longstanding economic turmoil, the 1950s was a period of overwhelming optimism and change. Dior completely altered the fashion world with his debut collection and pushed the trends of the era towards femininity and opulence. We see accentuated waists come back into style and the rise of more traditional values prevail, which greatly influenced industry trends. If this has inspired you to emulate this iconic era’s style, head over to our collection to check out some vintage pieces that are sure to give you that ‘50s feel!