Cameo Jewelry's Fine-Carved History

By Paige McKirahan 

When looking for accessories that seem to be tiptoeing the fine line between art and fashion, there is one piece that is sure to be found: the cameo. This jewelry features miniature reliefs that typically show a profile view of a woman’s face or a mythological scene, and have captured the hearts of many with their high sentimental value and impeccable craftsmanship. The name for the object has origins in Italy where it means “to engrave”; it is also said that the term was derived from the ancient Arabic word “khamea”, translating to “amulet”. Now that we know what the object is, let’s explore its rich history.

A tradition that began at the end of the 15^th century, cameos were first widely popularized by Queen Victoria and featured women’s profiles carved in sea shells, which is a practice that is still favored today. Despite this romantic evolution, the decorative jewelry piece has not always been a feminine accessory. In fact, they have been favored by men throughout history and this fondness began nearly 300 years prior to the birth of Christ. In ancient Egypt, carving reliefs into rock were used to record significant events in history as far back as 15,000 B.C. Cameos of this era frequently featured depictions of ethical values or made a statement about faith and loyalty.

Since the conception of this genre of jewelry, it has had a variety of uses throughout history. In early Greece and Rome, many carvings featured mythological creates, attractive women, or biblical events. The Hellenistic era saw young women using cameos to express their romantic desires; these pieces commonly depicted a relief of a dancing Eros as an invitation for seduction. The Renaissance brought these motifs to the attention of Pope Paul II and it is said that his love of the piece contributed to his death as his extensive collection of cameos kept his hands and body so cold that he ultimately froze.

In addition to their use as military accessories, they were also collected by women in the Elizabethan period to prove cultural status and serve as a souvenir for their travels (specifically to the newly discovered Pompeii). Even Napoleon became enchanted by the creation; he wore one to his own wedding and even founded a school in Paris dedicated to teaching the art of cameo carving.

Cameo showing Napoleon and his bride c. 1810

(image credit to pinterest.com)

Cameos are made from a variety of materials, but in order to tell if they are authentic and not made of plastic, you can expect them to be carved out of the following:

Carnelian Shells:

As the most frequent shell used for cameo carving, this material is low intensity with colors in peach and orange tones.

Sardonyx Shell:

With a thicker outer wall and dark brown interior, this shell can resemble marble when carved. The cameos in these shells tend to cost more because of their rarity, and they are distinctive in color with a white foreground starkly contrasting the darkness.

Mother of Pearl:

Best set in silver, mother of pearl cameos customarily are opaque with a bluish-grey color.

Agate:

Agate cameos are blue or green in color and have a more modern look, despite the fact that this material has been used to create this piece for centuries. 

(Above photo credits to thecameocollection.com)

If these materials aren’t easily recognizable, you can check the authenticity of your piece by observing the cameo’s appearance. Ones made in plastic are typically thicker than shells, so if they are real, they should be slightly transparent. You can also check for cracks as shells are fragile and are susceptible to damage if not cared for properly. Checking the carvings is another easy way to differentiate between plastic and real, raw material as those carved in shell should have fine markings whereas plastic is more smooth. For cameos of all types, check out our collection for brooches, rings, necklaces, earrings and bracelets that are sure to add a romantic touch to any fall look!

The Steampunk Movement: Modern, Industrial, and Accessory Filled

By Paige McKirahan

When thinking of ways to accessorize a steampunk look, you first want consider what the term means in order to understand this wild aesthetic as a whole. In short, it is a movement inspired by Victorian England, American’s wild West, and the Industrial Revolution that reimagines modern technologies as more elaborate, creative pieces of fashion, art, and mechanics. Essentially, it puts a classic twist on modern style, combining pieces from previous centuries with industrial motifs. This style of art and dress did not come into circulation until the late ’80s, and it has only grown in popularity since; its presence in literature pushed the movement in to the public eye and from that point, it gained momentum in fashion, film, and music. Now it is more than just a part of science fiction as its fun, DIY characteristics have spread into popular culture. Every good pop culture movement has standout accessories, so read on to see a few of our favorite steampunk pieces and motifs!

Walking Cane 

Back in a time when canes were less utilitarian, they were typically an indication of the owner’s wealth and overall status. For a period spanning over three centuries, they were an essential part of the wardrobe and it was likely that cane users possessed a variety of canes to be used in a multitude of social settings. Their general use has roots in the male psyche where wielding a stick equates to power. Just think back to classic literature; Black Rod carried a actual rod, Merlin carried a wand, and Moses used a staff to part the sea. When they were introduced in the 1650s, they were considered exotic as they were made with foreign materials like ivory and Malacca wood. As time progressed towards the Victorian age and the Industrial revolution, the middle class became increasingly wealthy and used canes to illustrate that wealth in grandeur. This popular use continued until about the 1940s when everyone almost simultaneously seemed to lay their canes down in pursuit of more simplified accessories. They were mostly used as a walking aid until the steampunk movement picked them up again, giving their gear-oriented ensembles an added level of class! 

Cufflinks

Though it seems like cufflinks may account for just a small part of an outfit, their aesthetic value and ability to redefine your entire look is what makes them one of the most important accessories of all. The small but mighty accent piece began appearing in the early 1500s when men began using strings to tie their ruffled wristbands together. This continued until the Industrial Revolution, when chains and strings were replaced with rods and clips to closer resemble the modern cufflink of today. Despite the fact that shirt makers have now began to put buttons on sleeves to decrease the need for cufflinks, they are still seen as a luxury item and give one the opportunity to make their clothing truly their own. They give steampunk lovers a great way to incorporate industrial motifs into their elaborate outfits, tying together their retro-modern looks.

Pocket Watches

Abiding by the steampunk ideals of functionality, creativity, and retro aesthetics, pocket watches capture the essence of the movement with their gear-oriented appearances and chain accents. Originating in around the 16^th century, the widespread use of the pocket watch began with the rise of railroading; keeping precise time was crucial for railroad guards and this importance was so prominent that Levi Strauss designed his jeans with a tiny front pocket made exclusively for holding the accessory! Many steampunk aficionados prefer the open face style of watch, which allows the wearer to display the inner workings of the piece. The best watches to invest in are said to be made by Rolex, Movado, Omega, IWC, ad Patek Philipe and are brands coveted by steampunk fashionistas.

Hand Fan 

Though the hand fan was widely popular in Victorian Eras as a foreign symbol of wealth and class, their origin lies centuries prior in ancient Egypt, Greece, and Rome. The piece, which was originally thought be a sacred instrument, was used in religious ceremonies and by royalty. They were also used in China in association with ancient mythical and historical characters. At their conception, they were fixed and remained as so until Chinese culture birthed the folding fan and spread it westward towards Europe. The 17^th century then saw an increased use of folding fan, eventually causing fixed fans to become obsolete. They generally featured prints of all kinds, either painted or transferred on, and shifted from biblical tradition to contemporary pastimes. The Impressionist, Art Nouveau, and Art Deco movements highly impacted the design and construction of fans from the 19^th to the 20^th century and today, the steampunk movement has taken hold of the accessory to complement their Victorian aesthetic.

Gloves

Similar to the hand fan, gloves found their origins in ancient culture; throughout history, they have been used for both utilitarian and decorative purposes beginning in Greece, China, and Egypt. They did not come into widespread circulation until the 11^th century when they finally reached Britain after their conception 100 years prior. Originally, they were confined to soldiers in warfare and their use as a fashion accessory did not commence until the 17^th century when style and status-oriented interests surrounding gloves began. Both genders were involved in this practice until the 18^th century, when their importance in men’s wardrobes dwindled. With the 19^th century, though, their popularity burst for both men and women when social codes developed that called for gloves in public settings. If you were seen out gloveless or were wearing soiled pieces, you would be the target for ridicule and face accusations of poor etiquette. The 20^th century saw another shift in use of gloves as the World Wars’ rationing of materials and standardization of design proved highly fashionable gloves to be unnecessary. We saw a brief revival in the 1950s, but it quickly fizzled out by the end of the preceding decade. Steampunk fans love to use gloves in their ensembles, giving their looks a vintage flair with fingerless, lace pieces holding precedence.

Face Masks 

Steampunk face masks are very reminiscent of thoses seen at a masked ball, but more industrial in appearance. Many of them feature clock and gear motifs and are typically gold, silver, or black in color. Their style may vary, and their steampunk-ehtusiats wearers use them to tie together their entire outfit and overall personality. The gas mask is a popular style, emulating Victorian London where fumes and smoke were a part of daily life. The masquerade mask starkly contrasts the gas mask aesthetic as it is more fancy and associated with dancing at a grand ball. Eye patches are a viable option and gives wearers the opportunity to play with their story; maybe they are hiding a mechanical eye or some other industrial creation beneath the covering. The plague doctor mask may be the most startling in appearance, with inspiration coming from iconic plague masks used in the 17^th and 18^th centuries. The accessories were worn by doctors and scientists and are commonly known as bird masks because of their long, beaklike nose piece.

Pocket Knives 

The pocket knife has been in use for centuries from the Roman empire to the Viking era. In the 1600s, they began to become more affordable, widely distributed, and mass produced. Many different styles of knives began being designed for a multitude of purposes ranging from hunting to camping. The simple, folding pocket knife is the most popular in steampunk fashion and they are typically bronze or gold in color with gears featured throughout the piece.

Though these pieces are just the tip of the iceberg when it comes to steampunk accessories, we feel like these are major fashion components than can be seen in any steampunk lovers closet. Octopus, spider, skeleton, camo, playing card motifs are also commonly featured in this movement’s fashions with bronze and leather colorings. If you’re trying to prepare a steampunk look for this upcoming Halloween or an impending convention, we’ve got you covered! Click on any of the photos in this post or search our collection for steampunk inspired pieces that are sure to make you feel industrial chic!

Paris Fashion Week SS’19 Accessories Trend Spotlight

By Paige McKirahan

Hello, fashion week aficionados! As a month of fabulous spring and summer fashion is finally coming to a close, we wanted to take some time to discuss the biggest trends on the Paris runways to conclude our fashion week series. Paris Fashion Week, beginning on September 24^th and ending October 2^nd, stunned with styles that emulated popular trends from New York, London, and Milan. Single statement earrings reigned in Balmain and Loewe’s shows, with oversized silver and feather-adorned pieces perfectly accompanying their flowing silhouettes. Off-White showed their appreciation for the neon trend with bright green accessories complimenting the white, athletic inspired designs.

Balmain and Off-White

(photo credit to elle.com)

The tropical aesthetics that dominated in New York were a favorite in Paris as well, with Ottolinger taking island motifs and creating a surfer inspired show that boasted chain link bags and colorful scarves that seem as if they washed up from another world. Transparent lucite pieces stole the show as Anrealage and Balmain went back to the ‘80s to create clear bangles, bags, and dramatic chandelier inspired headpieces. Scarves and classic prints were a favorite of the Marine Serre show, as their eclectic line also boasted spherical novelty bags and transparent wearables. Metals were coveted in Milan and it seems that their popularity was only heightened in Paris as Saint Laurent used shiny accents in everything from belts to eye masks.

Anrealage, Balmain, and Marine Serre

(image credits to accessoriesmagazine.com)

People that claim that everything is bigger in Texas have obviously never seen a show on the Paris runways; towering headpieces from Rick Owens and elongated necklaces from Gucci illustrates our love for all things oversized. If you’re not a fan of the tiny sunglasses trend that has overtaken the fashion industry, many designers seem to share your sentiment as they are beginning to move back to the classic bug-eyed look. Paris undoubtedly showed our love for excess as bangles stacked to the elbow and rings on every finger were staples in Dries Van Noten and Chloe shows. The only thing that seemed to be downsized in Paris were the bags; tiny clutches and wearable pouches were all the rage in lines all week long. Now that we have covered the trends from all over the globe in of one fashion’s favorite months, what were your favorites? Luckily, you don’t have to travel far to find them; check out our collection for some of the hottest spring and summer trends that are just a few clicks away!

Chloe, Loewe, and Rick Owens

 (image credit to elle.com)

Milan Fashion Week SS’19 Accessories Trend Spotlight

By Paige McKirahan

Hello again, fashionistas! As Milan Fashion Week reached its conclusion on September 25^th, we thought that we would reflect its most popular trends predicted for the spring and summer seasons of 2019. Of course, many popular themes and aesthetics from New York and London were seen making their way down Milan runways; eye-catching neon and tie dye packed a punch in visually stimulating collections from Prada to Armani. We may have had novelty bags emulating food in London, but picnic-inspired motifs wowed in Dolce & Gabbana’s line along with their garden themed collection. Moschino, like many other brands, looked to the ‘80s for some vibrant inspiration, giving us Matisse vibes with their brightly colored tights and color coated metals featuring scribble details.

Moschino and Dolce & Gabbana 

(photo credit to accessoriesmagazine.com)

Continuing on from London, feminine aesthetics still reigned as vintage inspired florals bloomed on scarves, rings, earrings, and bags from Fendi and Versace. We also found new inspiration in beach style motifs with shells; though they usually tend to be a more bohemian concept, they were spiced up to a new level as they were mixed with metals, crystals, and pearls as displayed in Missoni and Etro’s collections. Moschino’s coated metals not your style? No need to fret; oversized pieces made from metals in burnished hues saturated the runway, greatly contrasting the delicate fringe and ribbon details in ready to wear pieces from a multitude of designers. Though we typically associated fringe with Western style, Byblos used bright colors and Brazil-like silks to offer a spin on the classic trend.

Byblos and Etro

(photo credit to accessoriesmagazine.com)

Asymmetrical and single style earrings captured the interest of many designers in Milan, with pieces ranging from simple, geometric styles to large, resin disks. Accessories also favored tubular constructions in both jewelry and shoes alike, with Tod’s putting their own twist on the style by added a scarf-like finish. Woven pieces have been a fashion staple for decades, but their Milan revival for summer 2019 offers a more grown up, darker glamour than the classic sandy-colored trend. Are you dying to pump up your wardrobe with some of Milan’s favorites in preparation for next year? Look no further than our collection, which includes all of these trends and more!



Tod’s, Arthur Arbesser, and Alberta Ferretti

(photo credit to accessoriesmagazine.com)

Marsha P. Johnson and her impact to the trans community 

by Flavia Lobato

By throwing the first brick, she along with Sylvia Rivera began the historic Stonewall Riots that would forever highlight LGBT rights. Both Marsha P. Johnson and Sylvia Rivera were gay rights activists,  transgender women, and people of color living in the tumultuous era of the 1960s. One morning in 1969 on Christopher St. in New York City, Marsha P. Johnson, Sylvia Rivera, and a number of other LGBT individuals were enjoying their stay at the Stonewall Inn. This was until a police raid was conducted, and Marsha P. Johnson took matters into her own hands and stood up for not only her rights but also for the rights for the millions of other LGBT individuals that must live in ridicule just for being who they are. Ms. Johnson took to the streets along with her other activist friends and lead the first major wave of riots. The Stonewall Riots would be one of the most important events that would lead up to the gay liberation movement and later modern LGBT rights in America. 

As an African American transgender women, Johnson is often overlooked in the discussion of LGBT rights. The erasure of her perspective from both the media and our history books omits the contributions that people of color and the transgender community have contributed to the LGBT movement thus far. Without her bravery in starting those riots just 50 years ago, there would be no spark that would ignite not only the Gay Pride March but also the advancements in the human rights advocacy. We stand not only in solidarity with Marsha P. Johnson, but also with the millions of other transgender individuals around the world. We see you, we hear you, you matter, and your history won’t be erased from our pages.