Alexander McQueen: A Couturier's Timeline

By Paige McKirahan

 

 

It is very seldom that a designer steps into the fashion industry and stuns icons with such grace as Alexander McQueen. In celebration of his life, we have elected to spotlight this amazing fashion contributor as his day of birth is fast approaching. The couturier and fashion icon was born on the 17^th of March, 1969 in London as the youngest of six siblings. After leaving school at the young age of 16 to pursue apprenticeships with a variety of high-profile tailors like Gieves and Hawkes that were masters of technical clothing construction. This experience was followed by time with Angels and Bermans, where he mastered a variety of pattern cutting techniques, including the razor-sharp style that has become synonymous with the McQueen brand. After this transformative stint, he became employed by tailor and designer Koji Tatsuno for close to a year before he traveled to Milan to be Romeo Gigli’s design assistant. During these apprenticeships, he also attended the Rosetta Art Centre, where he received a recommendation from Yvonne Humble that sent him on to the MA fashion course at Central Saint Martins College of Art and Design. The skills that he learned during his time in these positions quickly earned him a high-class reputation in the industry as a designer with an affinity for flawlessly tailored designs.

This reputation was carried with him to St. Martins, where he was encouraged by the head of his course there to enroll as a student and receive a master's degree in fashion. He went on to do just that, and his 1992 graduate collection was so emblematic that the iconic stylist Isabella Blow famously purchased it in its entirety. Blow became a sort of mentor to McQueen, using her contacts and industry expertise to help launch his career. It was even rumored that she influenced his choice to go after his middle name, Alexander, when he finally had his big break.

 

McQueen and Blow (source)

During this time, McQueen grew as an artist with other designers in Hoxton, where he designed his second collection that led him to his "right hand woman", Katy England. England was appointed the creative director of Mcqueen's third collection and continued working with him from then on, being his "second opinion" on all of his major works. Following these collections, he then moved on to create the wardrobe for David Bowie's 1996-1997, which opened the door to a plethora of high-profile celebrity collaborations with icons like Bjork, Robert Lepage, Sylvie Guillem, and Russell Maliphant.

 

McQueen for David Bowie (source)

Through the end of the 90s and the beginning of the 2000s, McQueen built a reputation around his shocking runway displays; his lavish and unconventional style was like nothing the industry had ever seen, incorporating things like holograms and shipwreck scenes into his shows. He became one of the runway frontrunners, being credited with adding tur extravagance and drama to fashion. One of the most dramatic shows in of his career was for Spring/ Summer 2001 displaying a collection dubbed "VOSS". The centerpiece of the show was a class box based upon Sanitarium by Joel Peter Witkin; the box was unlit, making the reflections on the walls seem like large mirrors reflecting the audience's images back to them for over an hour. When the show finally began, the box became lit to reveal a gaggle of moths and a naked Michelle Olley relaxed on a chaise lounge wearing only a gas mask.

 

A photo from the VOSS show, 2001 (source)

In 1996, Mcqueen was appointed to chief designer at Givenchy, where he worked until 2001. Prior to this departure, he formed a partnership with the Gucci Group and they acquired 51% of his company in 2000. He remained as the creative director until his death, and this new ownership allowed his label to globally expand. He created men and women's ready-to-wear collections, accessories, eyewear, and a variety of fragrances that were available in boutiques all over the world at the conclusion of 2007. He remained at the top of the industry until his untimely passing in 2010, two days prior to the start of London Fashion Week. He still holds his title as one of the most iconic courtiers of all time and has received high honors including "British Designer of the Year" (1996 & 2003) and "International Designer of the Year" (2003). His brand continues to produce stunning collections and the McQueen legacy will live on longer than the industry itself.

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International Women of Fashion Day

By Paige McKirahan

 

In an industry that seems male-dominated at a first passing glance (think names like Giorgio Armani, Gianni Versace, and Yves Saint Laurent), the world of high fashion is more than just the male names gracing the labels of your favorite designer bags. With all these brands at the forefront of fashion, sometimes we are left to wonder: how does a women centric-industry seem to so overtaken by the opposite gender? Here at Talkingfashion, we commend all fashion-forward trailblazers that have made groundbreaking innovations to get the industry where it is today. And in celebration of International Women’s Day, we have decided to take a look at some of the most powerful women in the industry whether it be designers, writers, editors, and everything in between. We want to celebrate the women who ran in their heels so all after them could strut confidently, so read on to learn a little more about ten of our favorite fashion moguls!

 

Anna Wintour

 

Born in 1949 in the UK, Anna Wintour is regarded as one of the major pillars in the fashion industry. As editor-in-chief of the iconic fashion bible, Vogue, she is the basis of all major fashion choices made by designers and celebrities alike. If you were wondering what it is truly like to work with Ms. Wintour, check out "The Devil Wear Prada" as Meryl Streep's character was based on her work with Vogue!

 

Vivienne Westwood

As one of our favorite designers of all time, Vivienne Westwood has been a pioneer in the fashion industry as her contributions to the world of design and business have scarcely been replicated. She has been at the helm of couture for over 40 years and burst onto the scene when she designing clothes for The Sex Pistols!

 

Cathy Horyn

 

One of the "original" fashion bloggers, Cathy Horyn reimagined what it was to be a fashion critic. Her emblematic 16 years run with The New York Times signified her status as the true voice of haute couture. Her honest, sometimes abrasive critiques spare no label regardless of how large or small, which is why many industry greats like Giorgio Armani fear her legendary wrath.

 

Miuccia Prada

When Miuccia created her Prada label in 1978, she made huge waves in a sea of male designers. Time and time again she stuns the industry with her beautiful collections, skyrocketing her to global fame; she is now one of the most respected designers in the industry and a trailblazer when it came to defining modern femininity and female power.

 

Rei Kawakubo

This Japanese designer with an affinity for all things avant-garde; her 40-year-long reinvention of the fashion game has not gone unnoticed as the theme for the 2017 MET Gala was based upon her career. After founding Comme des Garçons, she truly established herself as a longtime industry great and broke the internet when she created a MET look for Rihanna that shook the world.

 

Natalie Massenet

After founding the most globally recognized shopping site Net-a-Porter, Massenet proved that she was unmatched when it came to the entrepreneurial spirit. Her contributions have made leaps and bounds when it comes to accessibility to fashion, and because of this has consistently topped the lists of the most powerful women by Forbes and Times.

 

Donna Karan

A huge name in the fashion industry for decades, Donna Karan is known best for her creation of DKNY and Donna Karan New York. Though her brand has seen ups and downs over the past 20 years, it is undoubtedly true that she completely reinvented the idea of the luxury store layout.

 

Iman

From being one of the most world-renowned models to the founder of an award-winning cosmetics company, Iman truly has dominated the industry. She has been at the forefront of fashion since the mid-1970s and her wide scope of influence paired with her dedication to philanthropy has garnered her high industry accolades.

 

Rose Marie Bravo

Though her time as the CEO of Burberry has come to a close, the industry is still feeling the effects of her energetic reign as she is a true embodiment of a "girl boss". This New York-bred fashionista revived the Burberry brand and went on to become one of the most highly regarded fashion entrepreneurs of our time.

 

Diane von Furstenberg

 

Last, but definitely not least, looks to the creator of the wrap dress. In addition to running her namesake brand, she has also been the president Council of Fashion Designer or America since 2006. She created such a stir when she entered the fashion world that she was dubbed "the most marketable woman since Coco Chanel"!

We hope you spend the day celebrating all of the amazing women in your life and remember to wear what you love, every day! The future is female, and we thank the amazing women above for breaking barriers for those all over the world!

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Paris Fashion Week F/W ’19 Accessory Trend Spotlight

By Paige McKirahan 

 

Some tend to say that the best is saved for last, and this fashion month this statement may have held true when Paris Fashion Week closed our couture-filled thirty days of fun. PFW, which ran from February 25 and March 5^th, is one of the longest running international fashion weeks that is commonly crowed the chicest of the bunch. As the original fashion capital of the world, the expectations in Paris were high but fortunately, the couture was higher. Gucci, Burberry, and Chanel are just a few of the high-profile names that stunned crowds as Karl Lagerfeld’s heavenly final designs made their way down the runway draping his various muses including Cara Delevingne and Penelope Cruz.

 

Final walk, Chanel F/W 2019 (source)

As we have come to realize this fashion month, high-profile headwear is at the helm of fall’s trendiest accessories in London, Milan, New York, and now Paris. Loewe nodded to classic constructions when they created their helmet style headwear featuring fin-like protrusions both above the ears and on the top of the design. Dior took note of Tom Ford’s NYFW bucket hat revival, spinning the desire to feature animal print complete with netting around the bill. We saw structured hats add inches to feet in height from Chanel, Ann Demeulemeester, and Nina Ricci that stunned with their glamorous color palettes. We also saw a boom in the hair accessory world with barrettes and headbands once again taking reign; Balmain hit the nail on the head with their chain link headband made complete a chic aesthetic to die for.

From top: Loewe, Nina Ricci, and Balmain (source)

Eyewear took on classic silhouettes with large lenses officially taking the frame-style crown back from last season’s tiny specks. Stella McCartney and Loewe’s designs had an intergalactic flair, while Celine and Chloe exhibited their love for vintage trends with their ‘70s inspired looks.

 

From top: Loewe and Chloe (source)

The jewelry displayed in Paris may be the most visually enthralling of all work throughout fashion month; their various structures and use of art styles directly in their designs stole the spotlight when they stepped onto the runway. We saw Isabel Marant take their shot at the single earring trend, creating a silver cuff with a whimsical aesthetic. Givenchy took the classic dangling earring style and implemented it into their ring designs, with tassels falling from a ring-bracelet hybrid. PFW gave us great stacking looks with everything from earrings to bangles as labels like Alexander McQueen loaded up their models with accessories that proved too much may never be enough. Lastly, the Y/Project may have had the most startling jewelry designs of all collections; with metal spirals to Greek-like sculptures incorporated into their work, they established their designs as artwork in their own right.

 

From top: Givenchy, Isabel Marant, and Y/Project (source)

Statement bags and belts also dominated the runway this fashion month, especially in this industry capital. In terms of silhouettes, it seems that thick, waist belts will be the “it” style this coming fall; both Chloe and Isabel Marant took this oversized look and combined it with last season western appeal to create beautiful, contemporary pieces perfect for cold weather looks. Off-White got in on the Parisian belt action with their classic clean-line design finished off with text saying “Off-White ‘LOGO’” replacing the traditional buckle. Givenchy combined the idea of the “it” belt and bag into a simple, utilitarian design perfect for those fashionistas on the go.

 

From top: Chloe, Off-White, and Givenchy (source)

As we have now seen on runways around the globe, the idea of what is "in" when it comes to handbags is shifting. This runway season, the ornamental styles of SS ’19 are out, and small-scale silhouettes are in.  From casual totes to wallet style designs, all collections had something stunning to offer. Rochas and Altuzarra created cinched bucket bags that are sure to be on everyone's must-have list. Givenchy and Stella McCartney took on an iPhone sized contemporary approach, while other brands like Chanel reinvented the fanny pack. One of the most talked about bags of the week, though, could barely hold your pocket change; these micro bags from Jacquemus have been making headlines from the moment they made their way into Paris!

From top: Givenchy, Chanel, and Jacquemas  (source)

With this, we now conclude the coverage of our favorite month in fashion! Which week was your favorite? We loved the looks in London and Paris! Check out our coverage of New York, London, and Milan and be sure to stay tuned for more fun fashion finds for this upcoming spring season!

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The Paris Fashion Round Up

By Paige McKirahan

 

Bonjour encore, TalkingFashion tourists! Following our coverage in Italy prior to Milan Fashion Week, we felt it was only appropriate to dive deep into Paris’ high-profile industry as haute heels (or chunky dad shoes) hit the sidewalks in France for the next six days for PFW. As one of the most iconic fashion capitals in the world, Paris never disappoints when it comes to high-fashion with even higher standards. There is truly no other place in the world with a style quite like the “Parisian chic” seen all over capital’s streets, so it is no surprise that their blogging landscape is one of the most active, flourishing influencer scenes that the industry has to offer. Whether it be their classic, minimalist Parisian style or a wilder approach to the chic stereotype, these French influencers have a certain je ne sais quoi that is sure to inspire your spring wardrobe haul!

 

Leiasfez

 

This creative mind has been quite the jetsetter this fashion month as she traveled to London for a fashion week and Dior exhibit fix. Her classic wardrobe featuring muted color palettes and clean tailoring provides content for her perfectly curated feed of style inspiration, making it easy to see why she has garnered over a quarter of a million followers and a spot in a Glossier campaign. 

 

Syanalaniyan

 

 

 

This Youtube-based influencer has proved that you don’t need hundreds of thousands of followers to make your mark on the industry; through her success with her Youtube channel and her “it” girl style shown on Instagram, she has formed partnerships with Marc Jacobs Beauty and Asos to create beautiful paid posts for her social media feeds.

 

Miss Pandora

 

 

 

Louise Ebel is the Parisian fashionista behind this stand-out blog, Miss Pandora. Rather than falling into the classic style guidelines set up by her chic predecessors, Ebel aims to explore new fashionable combinations whether they be unusual silhouette pairings or wild color combinations.

 

Mango and Salt

 

 

 

Victoria, the creator of Mango and Salt, uses her blog to showcase both her minimalist style aesthetic and sustainable lifestyle practices. She prides herself on being authentic and natural, so if you are looking for some style inspiration with a side of cultural commentary, Mango and Salt is the perfect blog for you! 

 

Frannfyne

 

 

 

This lifestyle and fashion blogger is one of our favorites from this list on account of her uber-cool street style looks. No two of her outfits look the same and she uses pieces from shops like Zara and Mango to create dimensional looks that are totally achievable for even the most fashion inept of her followers.

For more great Parisian bloggers that are on our must-follow list this spring, check out this article by Frenchly! 

Switching the conversation from bloggers to brands, there are just as many French accessory labels on our radar that make us thankful its tax return season! While you’re waiting on that direct deposit to hit, give these brands a follow and check out all of the beauty that they have to offer!

 

Balaboosté

 

One of the most fun and eclectic labels on this list, this 20-year-old brand is eccentric and colorful in all the right ways. Though some may struggle to create bold pieces with a chic feel, this is no problem for Balabooste as their ‘90s inspired statement pieces are made to be Instagram ready!

 

Lou.Yetu

 

 

This brand, which is named after a classic French children’s song, takes this playful element and seamlessly fuses it together with its clean aesthetics to create timeless pieces with a classic French twist. Their delicate necklaces, rings, and bracelets are made to be layered and will compliment all of your chicest looks.

 

Gerard Darel

 

 

 

This seemingly lowkey clothing and accessories brand has slowly established itself as a provider of quality basics both in France and around the world. Their reach is so wide that their simple bags have been in the hands of many of the media’s favorites, including Angelina Jolie!

 

Satellite Paris

 

 

Playing upon the industry’s love of boho-chic aesthetics, this brand boasts expertly crafted jewelry that can be found in six storefronts across Paris, along with a multitude of department stores. Started by a former ethnologist, Satellite’s pieces are delicately crafted and jewel encrusted with an art deco design inspiration to match.

 

Nouvel Amour

 

 

Popular for its simple, gold ID bracelets, rings, and necklaces, this Parisian brand offers a new way to remember your travels to the fashion capital. The versatility of their pieces paired with the ability to customize every design makes these romantic accessories a fashion round-up favorite!

Since Paris Fashion Week is already underway, make sure to give all of these French fashion finds a follow to see how they are participating in the industry fun! Be sure to stay tuned for more roundups and join us on our journey to Ireland to discover more creators worth following prior to our Saint Patrick's Day celebrations in March!

 

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Milan Fashion Week F/W ’19 Accessory Trend Spotlight

By Paige McKirahan

 

As we have now concluded our catwalk through the third week of our favorite month in fashion, Milan emphatically reinforced its stance as one of the top fashion capitals in the world with its out-of-the-box shows. Milan Fashion Week, running from February 19^th to the 25^th, boasted its largest season to date as 179 collections were on display in this Italian favorite, closing out the month of February. Serving as the birthplace for some of the industry’s favorite family-run fashion houses (think Prada, Missoni, and Fendi), there is no doubt that this dynasty-driven capital has no problem putting the haute in couture. In the wake of Karl Lagerfeld’s death, expectations were high and undoubtedly were met with collections like Moncler taking up entire street corners and Moschino’s homage to Price is Right!

 

Moschino's Price is Right set (source)

Eclectic headwear has truly established itself as one of this season's "it" accessory as classic winter styles with a twist have been seen in collections in New York, London, and now Milan. Anteprima, United Colors of Benetton, and Fendi all presented their own variations of the Russian-style cold weather favorite complete with fur and chinstraps. Armani took a less utilitarian approach to headgear as their jewel-encrusted berets paired with their rigid silhouettes proved to be the perfect touch of femininity. Agnona's approach headwear was purely functional as their simple, beige beanies were the perfect companion to their monochromatic looks.

 

From top: United Colors of Benetton, Armani, and Agnona (source)

Moving on to eyewear, Milan boasted pieces that were far from conventional. Gucci threw their own private masquerade with a horror-themed- twist as models made their way down the runway with face and eye coverings embellished with long spikes. Looking towards a more traditional approach, Fendi, Armani, and Prada are here to prove that the age of tiny sunglasses is out and oversized frames are back in. One new variation that looks like its still here to stay? Sunglasses lenses in bright hues!

 

From top: Gucci, Prada, and Fendi (source)

Switching the conversation to jewelry, it is evident that gold is now reigning as the primary material for this coming cold weather season. Donatella Versace made this evident in her Milan collection, with gold belts, earrings, and necklaces designed with a mix of delicate and chunky constructions. Vivetta and Fausto Puglisi took hold of the single earring trend that was popular in the S/S '19 shows last year and showed that this style is here to stay all throughout 2019. Marni's jewels included a variety of chain-like motifs in the chokers seen throughout their collection worked beautifully when paired with their vibrant punk-meets-conference room aesthetic. Moschino stunned with jewel-encrusted costume jewelry perfect for their Price is Right set, with gold and silver settings pairing seamlessly with Jeremy Scott's over-the-top clothing designs.

 

From top: Versace, Vivetta, Marni, and Moschino (source)

Looking to bags, this season the universal design theme leaned toward compact and handheld. As we saw last week in London, the idea of the "it" bag is transforming, and designers may still be trying to adapt to this accessory based shift. Nevertheless, we loved this season's affinity for miniature handbags perfect for a phone and wallet but not much else, forcing their carriers into decluttering. Check out some of our favorites below! 

 

From top: Bottega Veneta, Vivetta, Moschino, and Tod's (source)

Now that this season's fashion month is almost over, have your favorite collections been in London, New York, or Milan? So far, we loved the wild look of London, but we can't choose just one as our favorite until we see what Paris has to offer!

Keep this article on hand for some great fashion inspiration for the next cold weather season, and shop our collections for some great headwear, pins, bangles, and dangling earrings of your own! For more FW coverage, be sure to stay tuned next week for our look at all things Paris!

 

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