The Chinese Fashion Round Up

By Paige McKirahan

Nǐ hǎo, TalkingFashion readers! To continue our trip around the globe this month, we are making our way to China just in time for Chinese New Year! The holiday, which occurs on Tuesday, February 5^th, marks the turn of the traditional Chinese calendar and celebrates the change from the Year of the Dog to the Year of the Pig. Like many of its other fashionable counterparts, China boasts bustling streets full of style fit for the pages of Vogue; being fully immersed in the Influencer era, Chinese fashion moguls are capitalizing on their country’s blogging frenzy and creating digital empires across their diverse channel of thriving social media platforms. Read on to learn more about which of these bloggers are a must follow this season! 

 

Yuwei Zhangzou

 

 

 

This business woman comes from not-so-humble beginnings when she began her career as a blogger after receiving her MBA in marketing a prestigious Parisian university. Her love and knowledge of luxury brands gives her a creative, insightful edge, allowing her to integrate herself into the industry seamlessly. 

 

Margaret Zhang

This influencer is known best for not only wearing luxury brands, but being the creative mind behind them. Iconic labels like Louis Vuitton, Dior, and Chanel are just some of her high-profile collaborators and she is represented by IMG, solidifying her position in the industry tenfold.

 

 Jiaye Wu 

Jiaye Wu’s time in the fashion industry has been nothing less than emblematic. From being the first Chinese model to market Calvin Klein to representing Hermes, Yohji Yamamoto, and Balmain, she has surely found her claim to fame. She strives to maintain a presence in both the high fashion and down to earth blogger worlds and does it well due to the adoration of her thousands of plans. 

 

Becky Li 

 

 

This influencer and ambassador is an expert in digital marketing; after selling 100 Mini Coopers on her WeChat last year, she topped that feat with a collaboration with Rebecca Minkoff, selling out 1,200 bags in only two days. She then launched her own fashion brand and generated over 1 million in revenue in the label's two debut drops.

 

 Fil Xiaobai

 

 

This street style aficionado is making her emblematic mark on the Chinese fashion industry; after being the only female influencer to walk in Dolce & Gabbana’s A/W' 2017 show, she undoubtedly knows how to work the spotlight on and off the job. As a stylist to other high profile influences and celebrities, she has great knowledge of fashion practices and it shines through in her social media.

In addition to all of the innovative influencers on social media promoting their personal brands, there are a plethora of designers creating the pieces these bloggers are obsessing over. Read on to see five Chinese designers to watch in one of the fastest growing buyers’ markets in the world.

 

CJ Yao

 

 

This Shanghai-raised designer made their claim to fame from her talent gained in London’s Central Saint Martin’s design school. Their versatile pieces include vibrant color palettes and unusual fabric combinations that can work well on everyone from the average person to the runways highest paid models.

 

Samuel Guì Yang

 

Yang also came into his own in the same London design school; the skills he gained from his time there made him an industry “genius”, pushing him to launch his own label in 2015. His collections demonstrate his dedication to fashion, film, and fine art, showing his culture roots effortlessly in his designs.

 

Pronounce

 

 

Yushan Li and Jun Zhou are the dynamic duos behind one of Milan’s most dazzling brands. Both have had enigmatic careers, working from high profile brands like Yeezy to taking their genderless label to global runways.

 

Fengchen Wang 

 

 

As streetwear designers are quickly gaining traction in the high fashion world, Feng Chen Wang’s futuristic approach to outwear captures the attention of every Instagram blogger on your timeline. Her pieces drip with cool and her larger-than-life silhouettes boast reflective fabrics and prep school aesthetics fit for every fashionista.

 

deepmoss

 

 

Founded by Xialu Liu, this feminine label’s inspiration ranges from English chic to fine art pleats. She loves artistic motifs found in sculpture and in Kenyan Maasai culture, keeping followers on their toes when deciding who to collaborate with next!

If last week's Australian designers and influencers provided you with some inspiration for your spring follow lists, this week's designers are sure to pique your interest with their eclectic creations and practices. Check out their collections at the links above and check out what Chinese inspired designs we have right here in our shops!

Sources:

Paris Haute Couture SS19 Accessory Trends Spotlight

By Paige McKirahan 

It’s our favorite time of year again here at TalkingFashion; Instagram is full of the industry's it-girls and fashionistas are fabulously flaunting their Fashion Week looks as new,vibrant spring pieces are making their way down the runway! This week has been full of Paris Haute Couture fun with brands ranging from Chanel to Armani stunning the masses with their colorful, spring oriented collections that are making us beg for warmer weather! Taking your eyes away from the dazzling clothing designs may typically seem like an impossible feat, it is the fantastic finishing touches we can’t stop raving over for spring/summer 2019.

Dramatic headgear has been a fashion week stable for multiple seasons, and this week was no exception when Paris put the Haute in Couture with wide brim hats from Ralph & Russo; conical, beaded headpieces from Giorgio Armani; and floral fascinators from Giambattista Valli. Guo Pei went above and beyond with their headwear as they incorporated tree motifs, weaving branch like headbands through their model's hair. The best headwear of the week? Chanel and Dior take the crown with their sparkling swimming caps that stole the show when paired with their gorgeous gowns. 

 

From top: Armani, Dior, and Pei (source)

 

Statement bags, which tend to be another fashion week favorite, were once again sent down the runway in a variety of shapes, sizes, and colors. Balmain boasted bowling ball motifs, while Armani and Schiaparelli gave us geometric couture that matched perfectly with their out of this world aesthetic. Possibly the most surprising of them all was the oversized backpack seen in Givenchy’s show; the bag, complete with a large bow addition, was designed by none other than Claire Waight Keller, the mastermind behind Megan Markle’s wedding gown!

 

Givenchy (source)

 

Nothing says haute couture like statement eyewear, and Paris delivered with precision as designers presented their wackiest eyepiece accessories on Parisian runways this week. In addition to the amazing headgear, we saw a multitude of eye netting to match with Dior’s circus-inspired collection. Face mesh was also seen in Antonio Grimaldi and Iris Van Herpen Collections, making their models look more like art pieces than people. Elie Saab proved that oversized eyewear is still in with their exaggerated, transparent designs that emulated futuristic glam. Arguably the most interesting accessory of them all was seen in Balmain's show as every model was sent down the runway with tiny sunglasses that were reminiscent of handheld binoculars commonly found in vintage horse racing photos.

 

 

From top: Iris Van Herpen, Balmain (source)

 

Now that you have seen our favorite accessory trends that Paris Haute Couture has to offer, what ones do you want to take home? If these pieces have you craving new spring looks fit for the Parisian runways, fear not! We have a great collection of pieces in all of these categories that are sure to elevate your spring wardrobe to a new level!

 

Sources:

Best accessories from Haute Couture Fashion Week SS19. (2019, January 24). Retrieved from https://www.standard.co.uk/fashion/accessories-haute-couture-fashion-week-paris-a4045791.html

N/A (2019, January 24). The Glitziest Accessories From Couture Fashion Week. Retrieved from https://www.elle.com/uk/fashion/g31889/best-jewellery-accessories-haute-couture-fashion-week/?slide=4

Fashion and Travels: English Hat Heaven

By Paige McKirahan 

 

All over the world, hats have seen their popularity and overall style fluctuate with market and consumer interest. One country that seems to be still be at the helm of the headwear frenzy after years of iconic hat moments is the United Kingdom. From the bowler to the fascinator, the British infatuation with all things hats has traditional roots that date back centuries. As a nation of self-proclaimed hat wearers, the accessory has been pivotal in defining class, gender, and occupation throughout for centuries. Long have they been associated with symbolic meaning, hats have seen a resurgence of popularity after the most recent Royal weddings have placed a spotlight back on millinery in a big way. 

The flat cap, which is one of England’s most iconic styles, can be traced all the way back to medieval times and became a subject of Tudor laws. An act of Parliament was even instituted stating that all males over the age of six had to wear a wool cap on Sundays and holidays; this became a requirement in 1571 and there was even a fine in place if they did not comply! The flat cap then became an icon of working class culture in the following centuries and prompted the birth of the bowler. Conceived in the Victorian Age, this style was a staple in the closet of the businessman after its practical construction quickly caught the eye of the public. There are many iconic wearers of this style like Liza Minelli and John Steed, but no one immortalized the bowler quite like Charlie Chaplin did when he made it a part of his famous ensemble!

 

Charlie Chaplin in a bowler (source)

 

The deerstalker is another essential British hat design that was made most popular by Sherlock Holmes. As the cornerstone of a Victorian gentleman’s hunting attire, this hat was not created for daily wear in the city and moving towards the Edwardian era, we saw millinery become widely prevalent in hat making. Designs became more elaborate and commonly featured decorative items like lace, birds, flowers, bows, and artificial fruits. Their grand design required the use of hatpins in order to secure their stance on the head, and they allowed women to sport their fabulous headwear even when they were out campaigning for women’s right to vote!

Moving into the 1940s, we saw the rise of the headscarf turban hat as women needed them to ensure their long hair would not get caught in machinery while working in factories. This turban style was a symbol of the war effort and lead to hats becoming an essential piece in the resurgence of Parisian haute couture. Though it seemed that hats would remain a classic accessory at this time, the rise of car ownership in the 1960s denounced the need for lavish headwear or utilitarian hats as they were no longer needed for weather protection or class demarcations.

 

A turban hat in action (source)

 

In the past decade, this British love for hat wearing has been revived with a new generation of Royals. Royal headgear has always been a staple in English culture, and thanks to the wedding of Prince William and Duchess Kate paired with the 300^th anniversary of the Ascot races, the hat’s classic status has been restored. Rachel Trevor-Morgan, who has been milliner to the Queen since 2006, has created hats for a multitude of royal events including The Queen’s 80^th birthday Service of Thanksgiving at St. Pauls and her Diamond Wedding Celebration. This amazing designer credits the Duchess of Cambridge to be a pioneer in hat wearing that will inspire wearers for years to come. Since her wedding, the Stockport Hat Works Museum, which is the only of its kind in the country, is peaking in popularity with their attendee’s headwear use even steadily increasing.

One hat-maker seeing great success is Piers Atkinson; his background working with Zandra Rhodes formed his eccentric style that can be seen on the pages of pivotal publications ranging from Italian Vogue to Tatler. His kitschy, eye-catching designs have been seen on the heads of Kate Moss and Dame Shirley Bassey, establishing himself as a classic contemporary designer with traditional techniques to match. Fred Butler is also seeing similar popularity with her hand-crafted pieces; as the granddaughter of a milliner, she has hat making in her genes and her skilled techniques are loved by the likes of Bjork and Lady Gaga. Hats off to Britain for having such a rich hat history, and we can’t wait to see how their style evolves over the next century!

 

Piers Atkinson Design (source)

Sources:

Magazine, B. (2013, June 17). History of hats. Retrieved from http://www.britain-magazine.com/features/history-of-hats/

Designer Spotlight: Christian Dior

 By Paige McKirahan

 

As a household name in both the fashion world and among creatives alike, Christian Dior was the obvious choice for our designer spotlight this week. This French couturier was born on the coast of Normandy in 1905 as one of five children born to a wealthy fertilizer manufacturer. He moved to Paris at the age of 5 and used his artistic inclinations to sell his sketches on the streets for small change. Though his parents hoped that he would become a renowned diplomat, he was adamant about pursuing his art, prompting his father purchased a small art gallery for him to take over after he completed school. The gallery held a variety of artistic works by artists like Pablo Picasso and tiny but mighty gallery saw small success. Despite this,  Christian was forced to close its doors in the wake of the Great Depression in 1929, the deaths of his mother and brother, and the demise of his father’s business. 

 

Christian Dior Art Gallery (source)

 

Following this event, Christian began working with fashion designer Robert Piguet and did so for around 10 years until he was chosen for military service in 1940. He served for two years and then went to work with couturier Lucien LeLong who dressed the wives of Nazi officers and French collaborators in order to preserve the industry’s economic and artistic prosperity. During this time, Christian was the primary designer at LeLong’s fashion house and worked alongside Pierre Balmain which, as you may have guessed, is the founder of the Balmain fashion house created in 1946.

After working with and under some of the industry’s most prevalent names, Christian decided he was going to found his own fashion house; in December 1946, he founded the house of Dior in Paris and was backed by Marcel Boussac, a cotton-fabric Magnate. Many say that the house was not truly open until 1947, which is when Christian debuted his first collection. 

 

New Look design from first Dior Collection (source)

 

This first collection, containing 90 different looks, was considered the pinnacle of the “New Look” as defined by US Harper's Bazaar magazine editor Carmel Snow. His designs were not aligned with the wartime fabric restrictions and featured calf length, full skirts, cinched waists, and fuller busts. The look garnered some criticism on account of its overall opulence, but it was this lavishness that allowed Paris to re-establish itself as a head player in the fashion world. 

His was an immediate success and was overwhelmed with orders from world-famous icons like Rita Hayworth and Margot Fonteyn. The British Royal family even invited Christian to have a private showing of his collection despite the fact that King George V barred young princesses Elizabeth and Margaret from wearing his controversial New Look pieces. After he became an established name in the industry, he established his ready-to-wear house on New York’ 5^th Avenue in 1948 as the first of its kind. His debut perfume line launched in 1948 as well with Miss Dior being his first fragrance, which was named after his sister.

 

 

Christian meeting Princess Margaret (source)

 

Not to be outdone by any of his counterparts, Dior was the first haute couture brand to license the production of its designs beginning in 1949. Christian realized that his New Look pieces worked hand in hand with one another and he along with his business partner Jacques Rouet saw the importance in licensing his name to an array of luxury accessories including furs, hats, stockings, and ties. This decision was met with great criticism as it was said to “cheapened the haute couture industry”. Regardless, his massive success with the endeavor inspired nearly all other couturiers to follow the same model.

In 1955, Dior hired 19-year-old Yves Saint Laurent as his design assistant and almost immediately knew that Laurent would be the one to succeed him at Dior. He told Laurent’s mother this at the age of 52 and she was quite confused about the remark until he suffered from a fatal heart attack in October of 1957 shortly after his meeting with her. His funeral saw over 2,000 attendees that included his staff and multitude of famous clients with the Duchess of Windsor at their head.

In the wake of Christian's death, Rouet appointed 21-year-old Laurent as the house’s artistic director in an effort to counteract the disarray caused by the event. He held the position until he was drafted and was succeed by Marc Bohan who defined a new era and silhouette for Dior that is known as the Slim Look. This modernized, sleek version of Christian’s iconic look proved to be a hit in the industry and he was an artistic director until 1989. Gianfranco Ferre followed him and then was replaced by John Galliano in 1997 as he was said to have a creative talent that aligned perfectly with Christian’s. Ferre and Galliano transformed the designs and Dior’s ready-to-wear lines shot up in popularity. Galliano’s name was plastered on headlines everywhere when fashion and philanthropic icon Princess Diana wore his first couture dress for the brand.

 

 

St. Laurent design for Dior, 1955 (source)

 

Galliano also was a pioneer in using branded logo motifs and he used that design to create his now iconic saddlebags that were in the hands of every it girl of the era. His brilliant work dazzles but also brought controversy, and he was eventually removed from his position after making anti-Semitic statements on film after a wild night out. Raf Simons then was appointed to the role of artistic director and was a great success from 2012 to 2016. After his departure, the decision surrounding who would succeed him was difficult but game-changing; Maria Grazia Chiuri, the former Valentino co-creative director, took over operations at Dior as the first female to hold the position. Her unapologetic approach empowers women and ensures the brands' success for years to come! We may not have any Dior in store, but we do have a great Saint Laurent piece sure to sate your designer appetite!

 

Sources:

Bannerman, S. L. (2018, July 19). The History of the House of Dior. Retrieved from https://theculturetrip.com/europe/france/articles/the-history-of-the-house-of-dior/

Sowray, B. (2017, August 23). Christian Dior. Retrieved from https://www.vogue.co.uk/article/christian-dior

  

 

 

 

 

 

 

Fur in Fashion: Faux Pas or Fabulous?

By Paige McKirahan

 

One material that has been on trial in fashion court for decades is one that was, for a large portion of its life, associated with high status and class. Fur accessories and clothing have been in circulation for 170,000 years and were used as a status symbol in as early as the 11^th century. European royalty sported fur coats, capes, and accessories commonly made from mink, sable, and chinchilla fur. This increase in fur wearing prompted the creation of laws that regulated which social classes were permitted to wear specific furs. Prior to this, furs were more so used out of utility; the real pelts offered warmth and comfort to people in primitive cultures, starkly contrasting their new popularized purpose.

As the desire for luxury furs increased over the next five centuries, so did the development of fur farms. In the Victorian era, we saw a rise in popularity with both genders as the use of furs in movies put a spotlight on the wild textile. Coats worn by men tended to be lined with fur with other materials covering the outside of the piece. Women’s coats boasted fur accents throughout at the collar, wrists, and hems. We also saw the popularity of dress and shoe clips begin to inflate in the same period; these accessories were either adorned with fur details or accessorized the fur pieces themselves.

 

Victorian Era Furs

(photo credits to grandladies.com)

Other accessories that loved fur fun were scarves, shawls, and hats. Looking back at their basic use surrounding warmth, people used fur to accessorize cold weather outfits in style. These small hints of luxury could elevate any look and were sure to illustrate the wearers high status.

The 1900s brought big change to the fur industry as imitation furs began to take over the market. Real furs were expensive and many fashionistas, especially animal rights activists, associated them with cruelty. As technology improved, so did the quality of fake furs created from silk and synthetic pile fabrics. Designers began to create more casual looks using fur, moving away from glamour and more towards department store chic. The ’50s and ‘60s saw fur be more affordable than ever, with faux fur options being front and center on account of Old Hollywood influence.

 

1950s Fur Ad

(photo credits to vintagedancer.com)

Now, fur is still one of the most widely debated fabrics in the industry and and increased amount of high profile brands are declaring themselves as fur free. The ‘90s pushed the faux v. real fur debate and used iconic supermodels as spearheads for the movement away from a fur-filled future. Fendi seems to be at the center of this debate as their haute couture counterparts seem to be ahead in the faux fur conversation; Gucci and Versace have vowed to ditch the real thing, while Fendi continues to unapologetically create pieces with real animal fur. Whatever style you prefer, we encourage you to research furs and the benefits of both styles before deciding on a side! Remember to wear what you love, and find fur items you love in our collection!