The Chinese Fashion Round Up

By Paige McKirahan

Nǐ hǎo, TalkingFashion readers! To continue our trip around the globe this month, we are making our way to China just in time for Chinese New Year! The holiday, which occurs on Tuesday, February 5^th, marks the turn of the traditional Chinese calendar and celebrates the change from the Year of the Dog to the Year of the Pig. Like many of its other fashionable counterparts, China boasts bustling streets full of style fit for the pages of Vogue; being fully immersed in the Influencer era, Chinese fashion moguls are capitalizing on their country’s blogging frenzy and creating digital empires across their diverse channel of thriving social media platforms. Read on to learn more about which of these bloggers are a must follow this season! 

 

Yuwei Zhangzou

 

 

 

This business woman comes from not-so-humble beginnings when she began her career as a blogger after receiving her MBA in marketing a prestigious Parisian university. Her love and knowledge of luxury brands gives her a creative, insightful edge, allowing her to integrate herself into the industry seamlessly. 

 

Margaret Zhang

This influencer is known best for not only wearing luxury brands, but being the creative mind behind them. Iconic labels like Louis Vuitton, Dior, and Chanel are just some of her high-profile collaborators and she is represented by IMG, solidifying her position in the industry tenfold.

 

 Jiaye Wu 

Jiaye Wu’s time in the fashion industry has been nothing less than emblematic. From being the first Chinese model to market Calvin Klein to representing Hermes, Yohji Yamamoto, and Balmain, she has surely found her claim to fame. She strives to maintain a presence in both the high fashion and down to earth blogger worlds and does it well due to the adoration of her thousands of plans. 

 

Becky Li 

 

 

This influencer and ambassador is an expert in digital marketing; after selling 100 Mini Coopers on her WeChat last year, she topped that feat with a collaboration with Rebecca Minkoff, selling out 1,200 bags in only two days. She then launched her own fashion brand and generated over 1 million in revenue in the label's two debut drops.

 

 Fil Xiaobai

 

 

This street style aficionado is making her emblematic mark on the Chinese fashion industry; after being the only female influencer to walk in Dolce & Gabbana’s A/W' 2017 show, she undoubtedly knows how to work the spotlight on and off the job. As a stylist to other high profile influences and celebrities, she has great knowledge of fashion practices and it shines through in her social media.

In addition to all of the innovative influencers on social media promoting their personal brands, there are a plethora of designers creating the pieces these bloggers are obsessing over. Read on to see five Chinese designers to watch in one of the fastest growing buyers’ markets in the world.

 

CJ Yao

 

 

This Shanghai-raised designer made their claim to fame from her talent gained in London’s Central Saint Martin’s design school. Their versatile pieces include vibrant color palettes and unusual fabric combinations that can work well on everyone from the average person to the runways highest paid models.

 

Samuel Guì Yang

 

Yang also came into his own in the same London design school; the skills he gained from his time there made him an industry “genius”, pushing him to launch his own label in 2015. His collections demonstrate his dedication to fashion, film, and fine art, showing his culture roots effortlessly in his designs.

 

Pronounce

 

 

Yushan Li and Jun Zhou are the dynamic duos behind one of Milan’s most dazzling brands. Both have had enigmatic careers, working from high profile brands like Yeezy to taking their genderless label to global runways.

 

Fengchen Wang 

 

 

As streetwear designers are quickly gaining traction in the high fashion world, Feng Chen Wang’s futuristic approach to outwear captures the attention of every Instagram blogger on your timeline. Her pieces drip with cool and her larger-than-life silhouettes boast reflective fabrics and prep school aesthetics fit for every fashionista.

 

deepmoss

 

 

Founded by Xialu Liu, this feminine label’s inspiration ranges from English chic to fine art pleats. She loves artistic motifs found in sculpture and in Kenyan Maasai culture, keeping followers on their toes when deciding who to collaborate with next!

If last week's Australian designers and influencers provided you with some inspiration for your spring follow lists, this week's designers are sure to pique your interest with their eclectic creations and practices. Check out their collections at the links above and check out what Chinese inspired designs we have right here in our shops!

Sources:

The Australian Fashion Round Up

By Paige McKirahan

 

Hello TalkingFashion readers! This week, we are shouting YOU out, Australian fashionistas! We have had you on the brain with Australia Day being the 26^th and to celebrate this amazing country, we have decided to round up all of our favorite Australian fashion finds from bloggers to labels. Whether you’re from the states or hail from down under, these Aussie goods are sure to pique your interests with their interesting style, personalized looks, and cool-girl aesthetics. Read on to see who and what you should be following in this new year for a fresh take on fashion-forward inspiration.

 

 

Nicole Warne

 

 

 

Nicole is an Australian native who is truly a jack of all trades; as a blogger, model, creative director, social media and brand consultant, and digital strategist, she knows the ins and outs of the industry like the back of her hand. In addition to running her blog, Gary Pepper Girl, she is currently a digital consultant for the Q Collective of Qantas Airlines. Her impressive resume boasts a multitude of successful digital campaigns for brands we love like Cartier, Chanel, Dior, Net-a-Porter, and Valentino; these achievements earned her a spot on Forbes 30 under 30 list in 2016 and have garnered her over 2 million followers on her social media channels!

 

 Carmen Hamilton

 

 

This Aussie beauty is the true epitome of a fashion blogger; her page, Chronicle of Her, began as a personal form of self-expression that allowed her to hone her skills in photography and digital editing while in university in Queensland. Despite the fact that she took a temporary position with a fashion start-up following graduation, she ultimately decided to focus on her blog and grow her already engaged following. She now uses it as a platform for fashion inspiration and discovery, as well as a way to feature awesome women creatives from around the world!

 

Sara Crampton

 

 

 

This minimalist fashionista is a pioneer in the global blogging space. Her blog, Harper and Harley, has been promoting a less is more approach regarding fashion and lifestyle since 2008. Her engaging content has allowed her to establish herself in the influencer space and has even improved her skills to allow her to create digital communication campaigns for high profile brands like Gucci, Estee Lauder, and Nike.

 

Brooke Testoni

 

 

 

A true social media savant, Testoni is best known as being the “it” girl in her city for having relatable, personalized blogging style. Her self-titled blog, Facebook Page, Instagram, Snapchat, and YouTube channel keeps her connected to her thousands of followers and allows her to promote her brand, Rylan. The label, which was founded in late 2017, carries leather goods and handbags designed by Testoni herself. In addition to her personal endeavors, she also works with a variety of fashion brands, helping labels like Chloe, David Jones, and Westfield with their styling, event planning, and campaigns.

 

Kaitlyn Ham

 

 

 

This Brisbane native with comfortable, classic style works as both a freelance fashion journalist and the editor of her personal fashion blog, famously known as Modern Legacy. Her platform aligns with her quirky, minimalist aesthetic, and through collaborations with other brands and bloggers, she uses it to let her audience know the who’s and what’s on up and coming labels, trends, and shops in the industry!

For more great blogs created by Australian moguls similar to the ones mentioned above, check out this article and get following!

Next, we of course need to showcase some of the best brands to watch that hail from down under. Though it seems that choosing only 5 labels out of the seemingly endless stream of stylish Aussie labels is impossible, we have rounded up some of our favorite shops that are sure to get you adding items to your fashion wish lists! 

 

Albus Lumen

 

 

 

This brand’s structured, simple aesthetic makes it easy to see why fashionistas are drawn to the practical designs. With pieces that make statements through understated chicness and idyllic color palettes, we want to shop their entire collection!

 

Poppy Lissiman

 

 

 

This accessory brand captured our hearts with their dazzling statement pieces that are built to last. This futuristic, vibrant label knows exactly how to elevate an outfit with a style that is sure to make a statement. 

 

DAISY

 

 

 

Though it seemed that this swimwear, lingerie, and party brand was set to see their allotted 15 minutes of fame, they have maintained relevance by merging their daring style with sophisticated constructions. Their admiration from fashion icons like Bella Hadid, Lily-Rose Depp, and Kendall Jenner has put them at the forefront of brands to watch! 

 

Lee Mathews

 

 

 

As a longtime Australian fashion favorite, this cult classic brand consistent produces rustic garments with dependable construction. Their cool-girl aesthetic is hard to ignore and it is simple to see why it has had the market in their corner since their conception.

 

Anna Quan

 

 

 

This brand’s unmatched tailoring and warm color palette provide a pin-worthy look that every minimalist would die for. Anna Quan’s suits outlast even the hottest summer days with elevated structure and versatile pieces.

Did you see anything you liked or already love? We hope this post offered some inspiration for your fashion finds and gave you a way to spend Australia Day the right way: wearing what you love, every day!

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Fashion and Travels: English Hat Heaven

By Paige McKirahan 

 

All over the world, hats have seen their popularity and overall style fluctuate with market and consumer interest. One country that seems to be still be at the helm of the headwear frenzy after years of iconic hat moments is the United Kingdom. From the bowler to the fascinator, the British infatuation with all things hats has traditional roots that date back centuries. As a nation of self-proclaimed hat wearers, the accessory has been pivotal in defining class, gender, and occupation throughout for centuries. Long have they been associated with symbolic meaning, hats have seen a resurgence of popularity after the most recent Royal weddings have placed a spotlight back on millinery in a big way. 

The flat cap, which is one of England’s most iconic styles, can be traced all the way back to medieval times and became a subject of Tudor laws. An act of Parliament was even instituted stating that all males over the age of six had to wear a wool cap on Sundays and holidays; this became a requirement in 1571 and there was even a fine in place if they did not comply! The flat cap then became an icon of working class culture in the following centuries and prompted the birth of the bowler. Conceived in the Victorian Age, this style was a staple in the closet of the businessman after its practical construction quickly caught the eye of the public. There are many iconic wearers of this style like Liza Minelli and John Steed, but no one immortalized the bowler quite like Charlie Chaplin did when he made it a part of his famous ensemble!

 

Charlie Chaplin in a bowler (source)

 

The deerstalker is another essential British hat design that was made most popular by Sherlock Holmes. As the cornerstone of a Victorian gentleman’s hunting attire, this hat was not created for daily wear in the city and moving towards the Edwardian era, we saw millinery become widely prevalent in hat making. Designs became more elaborate and commonly featured decorative items like lace, birds, flowers, bows, and artificial fruits. Their grand design required the use of hatpins in order to secure their stance on the head, and they allowed women to sport their fabulous headwear even when they were out campaigning for women’s right to vote!

Moving into the 1940s, we saw the rise of the headscarf turban hat as women needed them to ensure their long hair would not get caught in machinery while working in factories. This turban style was a symbol of the war effort and lead to hats becoming an essential piece in the resurgence of Parisian haute couture. Though it seemed that hats would remain a classic accessory at this time, the rise of car ownership in the 1960s denounced the need for lavish headwear or utilitarian hats as they were no longer needed for weather protection or class demarcations.

 

A turban hat in action (source)

 

In the past decade, this British love for hat wearing has been revived with a new generation of Royals. Royal headgear has always been a staple in English culture, and thanks to the wedding of Prince William and Duchess Kate paired with the 300^th anniversary of the Ascot races, the hat’s classic status has been restored. Rachel Trevor-Morgan, who has been milliner to the Queen since 2006, has created hats for a multitude of royal events including The Queen’s 80^th birthday Service of Thanksgiving at St. Pauls and her Diamond Wedding Celebration. This amazing designer credits the Duchess of Cambridge to be a pioneer in hat wearing that will inspire wearers for years to come. Since her wedding, the Stockport Hat Works Museum, which is the only of its kind in the country, is peaking in popularity with their attendee’s headwear use even steadily increasing.

One hat-maker seeing great success is Piers Atkinson; his background working with Zandra Rhodes formed his eccentric style that can be seen on the pages of pivotal publications ranging from Italian Vogue to Tatler. His kitschy, eye-catching designs have been seen on the heads of Kate Moss and Dame Shirley Bassey, establishing himself as a classic contemporary designer with traditional techniques to match. Fred Butler is also seeing similar popularity with her hand-crafted pieces; as the granddaughter of a milliner, she has hat making in her genes and her skilled techniques are loved by the likes of Bjork and Lady Gaga. Hats off to Britain for having such a rich hat history, and we can’t wait to see how their style evolves over the next century!

 

Piers Atkinson Design (source)

Sources:

Magazine, B. (2013, June 17). History of hats. Retrieved from http://www.britain-magazine.com/features/history-of-hats/

Designer Spotlight: Christian Dior

 By Paige McKirahan

 

As a household name in both the fashion world and among creatives alike, Christian Dior was the obvious choice for our designer spotlight this week. This French couturier was born on the coast of Normandy in 1905 as one of five children born to a wealthy fertilizer manufacturer. He moved to Paris at the age of 5 and used his artistic inclinations to sell his sketches on the streets for small change. Though his parents hoped that he would become a renowned diplomat, he was adamant about pursuing his art, prompting his father purchased a small art gallery for him to take over after he completed school. The gallery held a variety of artistic works by artists like Pablo Picasso and tiny but mighty gallery saw small success. Despite this,  Christian was forced to close its doors in the wake of the Great Depression in 1929, the deaths of his mother and brother, and the demise of his father’s business. 

 

Christian Dior Art Gallery (source)

 

Following this event, Christian began working with fashion designer Robert Piguet and did so for around 10 years until he was chosen for military service in 1940. He served for two years and then went to work with couturier Lucien LeLong who dressed the wives of Nazi officers and French collaborators in order to preserve the industry’s economic and artistic prosperity. During this time, Christian was the primary designer at LeLong’s fashion house and worked alongside Pierre Balmain which, as you may have guessed, is the founder of the Balmain fashion house created in 1946.

After working with and under some of the industry’s most prevalent names, Christian decided he was going to found his own fashion house; in December 1946, he founded the house of Dior in Paris and was backed by Marcel Boussac, a cotton-fabric Magnate. Many say that the house was not truly open until 1947, which is when Christian debuted his first collection. 

 

New Look design from first Dior Collection (source)

 

This first collection, containing 90 different looks, was considered the pinnacle of the “New Look” as defined by US Harper's Bazaar magazine editor Carmel Snow. His designs were not aligned with the wartime fabric restrictions and featured calf length, full skirts, cinched waists, and fuller busts. The look garnered some criticism on account of its overall opulence, but it was this lavishness that allowed Paris to re-establish itself as a head player in the fashion world. 

His was an immediate success and was overwhelmed with orders from world-famous icons like Rita Hayworth and Margot Fonteyn. The British Royal family even invited Christian to have a private showing of his collection despite the fact that King George V barred young princesses Elizabeth and Margaret from wearing his controversial New Look pieces. After he became an established name in the industry, he established his ready-to-wear house on New York’ 5^th Avenue in 1948 as the first of its kind. His debut perfume line launched in 1948 as well with Miss Dior being his first fragrance, which was named after his sister.

 

 

Christian meeting Princess Margaret (source)

 

Not to be outdone by any of his counterparts, Dior was the first haute couture brand to license the production of its designs beginning in 1949. Christian realized that his New Look pieces worked hand in hand with one another and he along with his business partner Jacques Rouet saw the importance in licensing his name to an array of luxury accessories including furs, hats, stockings, and ties. This decision was met with great criticism as it was said to “cheapened the haute couture industry”. Regardless, his massive success with the endeavor inspired nearly all other couturiers to follow the same model.

In 1955, Dior hired 19-year-old Yves Saint Laurent as his design assistant and almost immediately knew that Laurent would be the one to succeed him at Dior. He told Laurent’s mother this at the age of 52 and she was quite confused about the remark until he suffered from a fatal heart attack in October of 1957 shortly after his meeting with her. His funeral saw over 2,000 attendees that included his staff and multitude of famous clients with the Duchess of Windsor at their head.

In the wake of Christian's death, Rouet appointed 21-year-old Laurent as the house’s artistic director in an effort to counteract the disarray caused by the event. He held the position until he was drafted and was succeed by Marc Bohan who defined a new era and silhouette for Dior that is known as the Slim Look. This modernized, sleek version of Christian’s iconic look proved to be a hit in the industry and he was an artistic director until 1989. Gianfranco Ferre followed him and then was replaced by John Galliano in 1997 as he was said to have a creative talent that aligned perfectly with Christian’s. Ferre and Galliano transformed the designs and Dior’s ready-to-wear lines shot up in popularity. Galliano’s name was plastered on headlines everywhere when fashion and philanthropic icon Princess Diana wore his first couture dress for the brand.

 

 

St. Laurent design for Dior, 1955 (source)

 

Galliano also was a pioneer in using branded logo motifs and he used that design to create his now iconic saddlebags that were in the hands of every it girl of the era. His brilliant work dazzles but also brought controversy, and he was eventually removed from his position after making anti-Semitic statements on film after a wild night out. Raf Simons then was appointed to the role of artistic director and was a great success from 2012 to 2016. After his departure, the decision surrounding who would succeed him was difficult but game-changing; Maria Grazia Chiuri, the former Valentino co-creative director, took over operations at Dior as the first female to hold the position. Her unapologetic approach empowers women and ensures the brands' success for years to come! We may not have any Dior in store, but we do have a great Saint Laurent piece sure to sate your designer appetite!

 

Sources:

Bannerman, S. L. (2018, July 19). The History of the House of Dior. Retrieved from https://theculturetrip.com/europe/france/articles/the-history-of-the-house-of-dior/

Sowray, B. (2017, August 23). Christian Dior. Retrieved from https://www.vogue.co.uk/article/christian-dior

  

 

 

 

 

 

 

Fashion Flashback: The Hot History of Hats

By Paige McKirahan

 

To continue on with our historical evaluation behind some of the most iconic accessories of all time, it would only be appropriate to reflect on how hats came to be in celebration of Hat Day!  Whether they be worn for fashion, protection, ceremonies, rituals, or utilitarian purposes, these head coverings have been a staple in the industry for thousands of years. Of course, this long history starts in ancient Egypt; one of the first images depicting a hat can be found in Thebes tomb and this illustration shows a man wearing a conical straw hat. They also first appeared in an early illustration of Pileus which depicted him wearing a simple small cap.

 

 

Ancient Egyptian Headwear (source)

 

In this time and throughout history, one of the most popular materials for hats is felt. The ancient Egyptians and Native Americans first discovered this material when they discovered that camel hair, when compacted into the floors of their sandals, contributes to the creation of this material. St. Clement, the patron saint of felt hat makers, was said to encounter the material in a similar fashion after filling his shoes with flax fibers.

In these ancient times, hats were generally worn either to signify high status or for protection from the elements. In Ancient Rome and Greece, Phrygian caps also referred to as Liberty caps, were used as symbols of freedom for exonerated slaves. The first brimmed caps were found in Ancient Greece and were worn by those seeking to protect themselves from the sun, typically those working in fields or in construction.

As headwear began to evolve, gendered styles came into play during the Middle Ages; women were wearing a variety of new head covering designs ranging from veils to wimples. Later in those years, women’s hats transformed into elaborate displays of wealth that sometimes featured two horn-like decorations or conical shapes.

 

 

Middle Ages Hat Styles (source) 

The 18^th century birthed newer designs created by milliners; the term was created to describe products made in Milan and other Northern Italian regions that were made with high-quality materials. One of the most popular hats of this time was the Shepherdess hat, which featured a large, sun-blocking brim. Bonnets were as popular women’s in fashion as top hats were for men, and both were made from silk at the time. Silk top hats were so popular and awe-inspiring that a man wearing once caused such a stir in the streets he earned himself a 500 dollar fine from inciting panic!

In the following century, hat’s widespread popularity began to rise and was considered to be very fashionable as more designs become available. Women’s hats started growing in size and opulence with many including feather details, circular constructions, and varying brim styles. Brim sizes saw a decrease with the introduction of the parasol umbrella, and then grew again as the 20^th century grew closer. Hats also began adapting to popular hairstyles, accommodating new cuts and fashions as to not disturb one's overall look. The first Kentucky Derby occurred in this century and established itself as the largest hat fashion event in America (and it still is to this day!).

 

Kentucky Derby Fashion

 

The 20^th century saw hats in a new light entirely. Wars, constant rationing, and accompanying social and cultural changes had a huge impact on all aspects of fashion, including headwear. The cloche hat peaked in popularity, and round hats with decorative flowers were another favorite of fashion lovers everywhere. Towards the middle of the century, fashion icons like Jackie Kennedy popularized the pillbox hat, which was followed by the fedora for both genders. Berets, top hats, sombreros, western hats, and ball caps all fluctuated in popularity during this time, and some of these styles are still very well received by the public.

Today, hats are still a hugely popular accessory and have been made staples in many sporting, cultural, and social events. They aren’t typically worn for ornamental purposes with as much gusto as they once were, but sports caps, beanies, and sun hats are beloved accessories for casual wear in modern times. To get a piece of fashion history to have as your own, check our collection of hats 

 

Happy Hat Day TalkingFashion Peeps!

 

 

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